Trango Tower FA 1976 Classic Martin Boysen MT 52

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 20 of total 50 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 8, 2008 - 01:23am PT
One of my all time favorite expedition accounts! Brown, Boysen and Mo bag a big one! From Mountain 52 Nov/Dec 1976.








Full size of the inset on the previous page showing the original route.










426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Mar 8, 2008 - 09:46am PT
Nice. I asked the crowd to post up their Fissure Boysen stories awhile back...thx
Tomcat

Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
Mar 8, 2008 - 10:55am PT
Just read Fissure Boysen to Tradchick the other evening.I think it's my favorite climbing story ever.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2008 - 01:46pm PT
Post a link to that thread if you got any interesting responses. I got to hear the tale straight from the man himself around an Indian Creek campfire.....More on that later.
SteveW

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Mar 10, 2008 - 11:41am PT
Steve
Boysen came to Holubar (now defunct) in Denver after this
ascent and gave a tremendous slide show about this ascent.
I can still remember him speaking of his knee being stuck
in that crack. Thanks for posting the article!
SW
TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho
Mar 10, 2008 - 12:11pm PT
"Americans would call it an offwidth crack; I called it something else"

"Mo could hardly jumar up with only a jammed knee for support, even though it would have held him."

This article has the goods!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2008 - 10:45am PT
Climbing bump!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Dec 17, 2008 - 10:49pm PT
bump
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2009 - 01:49am PT
Vintage Trango Bump!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 6, 2009 - 04:07am PT
Boysen is 68 has had two hip replacements and still climbs 5.12 cracks and face.
Ray Olson

Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
Nov 6, 2009 - 10:13am PT
right on Steve,
one my fave's too.
thanks for posting.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2009 - 11:47am PT
I would never have had the pleasure of meeting him or Rab Carrington if they weren't Jim's pals around the campfire out at the cottonwoods in Indian Creek. Tom Frost thinks the world of Martin, as well, having had a grand time on Ama Dablam with Jello for dessert!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 6, 2009 - 12:05pm PT
That's too funny Steve. I met Mr Boysen in similar circumstances, only at the at the Superbowl. After Donini introduced him, I shook his hand and asked, "Of the Fissure?"
He answered,
"Pissoff!"
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Nov 6, 2009 - 12:30pm PT
I remember this one well, very inspiring! 3 or 4 of those pictures do something that a lot TR photo's don't do, they give you a real feeling of the immensity and unforgiving nature of the place. Surely in the top of my fave TR's.
426

climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Nov 7, 2009 - 10:46am PT
Would love to see this OCR'ed...


Pate

Trad climber
The Lost Highway
Nov 28, 2009 - 09:39pm PT
WTF? Only 15 posts on this classic? The shame.


BUMP
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2010 - 05:27pm PT
Shame indeed! Bump!
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Sep 25, 2010 - 10:17pm PT
On the boulders around Ama Dablam Basecamp, Martin moved with the surity of a sloth. Hanging upside-down he would ponder the next move and then slowly, in complete coordination extend and twist his long body to get the maximum reach. Just there, at the end of his fingertips, would be the required hold, which he would calmly clamp, then search out the next move. Breashears and I could often follow Martin on those problems, but not with such complete control.

A dozen years later I went to Trango Tower to try to free climb it, largely inspired by that old article in Mountain mag. Gullick and Albert had already free climbed the tower via the Slovenian route two years earlier, but Catherine Destivelle and I thought we might find something better in the vicinity of Kurtyka and Loretan's route. But cracks were too icy that far around on the east side, so we settled on a new start (9 pitches) to the Slovenian route, then we finished out our free climb that way.

In the decade between the first ascent of Trango Tower and the first free ascent, even the greatest climbs in the world had focussed down to the style in which they are climbed.

-JelloFondlyRemembersMartinCatherineAndTrango
Mimi

climber
Sep 26, 2010 - 01:10am PT
Thank you Jeff for sharing your Jello memories.

Jay, please elaborate about the Super Bowl. So funny.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2010 - 03:48pm PT
Jeff- Thanks for posting, as always! You two clearly had a lot on your minds with respect to style...

From Rock and Ice November/December 1990, just back from the fun.







Messages 1 - 20 of total 50 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews