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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 26, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
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So one day shortly before the turn of the century, up at broken tooth, we decide to do that .10d wide crack just before the main crag as a warmup while waiting for Rock Lobster. I lead it and get my knee, stuck, more than I have before, but in a few minutes I'm able to wiggle the bruised joint out, set up a sling shot and lower. The woman I'm climbing with goes up quickly and gets her knee stuck, for a long time. Ace wanders by and we start telling fissure Boysen jokes, laughing robustly. Only then stop, because it's not funny anymore. It's been a long time, like 20-30 minutes. But with much effort and torn flesh she gets her damaged joint out, and soberly, we limp over to Rock lobster.
Shortly there after, I'm climbing up there with Rev Mike of Vail, and I retell that story, lots of laughs, haha.. We head down to the Super Bowl and there is Donini with a group of international climbers, mostly from Cuba and Germany. He makes introductions. When he comes to the last guy he says, "oh and this is Martin Boysen" I shake his hand, look him in the eye and ask;
"Of the Fissure?"
He looks me in the eye and says;
"Piss off!"
Hilarity ensued!
Okay, to complete the stuck knee cannon;
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/688099/Generator-Crack-is-a-Cruel-Mistress-A-Facelift-Tale
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 27, 2012 - 03:39am PT
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on the second ascent of yellow brick road, a climber got his knee irretrievably stuck in the offwidth right off the first belay. his partner rapelled to base, ran to the lookout tower and got a plastic squeeze bottle of salad oil, which was used to lubricate and free the leader's knee. the squeeze bottle is still in the crack at the belay. it is recommended that this section be liebacked. always climb safely and avoid the need for rescues.
from the needles guidebook (1992)
I think I've seen that bottle. Our solution was not to lieback the wide, but to climb the easy 5.6 face out to the right.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 27, 2012 - 04:26am PT
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Please stop lubing up all the offwidths. Thank you.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 27, 2012 - 04:33am PT
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ekat, I've heard Crisco/vegetable oil is the trick as well.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Mar 27, 2012 - 04:52am PT
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what about Pepsodent toothpaste?
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Mar 27, 2012 - 05:00am PT
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I hear say on Ruper them that free stuck folks also used a form of cooking oil.......
Maybe that is why the wide section of that route is so damn greasy
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Mar 27, 2012 - 07:06am PT
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Nightmare...getting stuck in the squeeze on Steck/Salathe.
As I'm breathing in then out inching my way up all I could think of is how long my body would take to finally fall out of there if it did get stuck.
Oh, and fat knees suck:-)
cheers
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2012 - 10:38am PT
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Prod wrote: What were you on Gabe?
My wife was belaying her friend up an unnamed crack at Reservoir Wall at the Creek. I was racking up to get on something else nearby when I noticed my wife's friend's predicament and went over to help.
GO
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Apr 25, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
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Is a stuck knee an old aid route somewhere?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Apr 25, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
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I once (unwittingly) climbed the crack on Ruper the day after the RMRG had poured motor oil down it to free someone's stuck knee. Man that thing was slippery.
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