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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 24, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
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I was just looking at photos in the April issue of Rock and Ice, and there's a caption on one that says that the route was perhaps the "hardest climb in the US" when Dan Goodwin did the first ascent in 1984.
I've seen that statement about Grand Illusion at Sugarloaf several times, and I thought I had heard it about climbs at Tacquitz and Colorado. Has anyone out there ever compiled a list? So as not to be comparing apples, oranges, and orangutans, it might make sense not to include alpine climbs and pure sport routes, or to have a separate list for sport routes.
Going back 50 years, Gear or mixed gear/bolt routes:
1962?
1978 "The Grand Illusion", 13b/c, Sugarloaf California (Tony Yaniro)
1984 "Maniac", 13 c/d, Quoddy Head Maine (Dan Goodwin)
2012?
Edited on 3/28/12 to add Clint's link in a more obvious place:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/hard.htm
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Mar 24, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
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For historical perspective let's go back a little more than 50 years.
And for regional perspective substantial European climbs are presented in italics.
1918 The Wilder Kopf, Westkante in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains by Emanuel Strubich - 5.10c, (the world's hardest climb at the time)
1930 Javelin Blade at Hollytree Wall, Idwal by Jack Longland E1 5b (5.10)
1954 W. Face of Aiguille de Blaitiere, in the Alps, including the famous Fissure Brown by Joe Brown and Don Whillans - 5.11
1957 first V8 by John Gill who in 1955 introduces chalk & modern dynamics.
1959 the Northcut start to the Bastille in Eldo by Ray Northcut - 5.10d.
1959 first V9 and a freesolo FA of the Thimble overhang - 5.12a
1964 Konigshangel on Frienstein in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains by Fritz Eske - 5.11b
1965 Supremacy Crack in Eldo by Pat Ament - 5.11b
1970 North face on the Schwager in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains by Bernd Arnold - 11d
1974 Super Crack of the Gunks by Steve Wunsch 5.12c
1975 Psycho Roof in Eldo by Steve Wunsch - 5.12+
1980 Cosmic Debris in Yosemite by Bill Price - 5.13b
2008 Jumbo Love. Clark Mountain CA by Chris Sharma (5.15b)
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 24, 2012 - 02:16pm PT
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2012 the "Splurginator" 5.15d, .... Vladimir Sergeyevich
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 24, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
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Ha ha, a search of Splurginator turns up links to a "hornybook" adult dating website. Werner's other avatar has been outed!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 24, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
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I know someone who almost got 'Splurginator' but they... Choked!
Going back in Dresden slippers and a rubber room tee....
But seriously ;
Pretty cool list Philo, what was the 1957 V8?
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
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Interesting list, Phil. Thanks!
Now we just need someone to fill-in between "Maniac" and that amazing reporting from Werner (always on the cutting edge) about the first ascent of "Splurginator".
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Mar 24, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
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Philo's list is pretty good (source?). It represents the actual hardest climbs for various times.
Then there is the list of recognized hardest climbs. I'm too lazy to do the research but here is a draft for someone to correct:
Open Book 5.9 - Tahquitz, Robbins, 1950s
Grand Illustion, mentioned above
To Bolt or Not to Be, 5.14a, some French dude, 1980s
OOPs. lost interest. Next!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Mar 24, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
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Maybe compile a list in ascending order of difficulty of the World Hardest Rock Climbs and have a parallel list in ascending order of boulder problems in order to see how they show an historical progress over time?
I remember in 1972 stopping at Split Rocks near Lyons, Colorado, going back to some obscure boulders, and standing in awe of what John Gill had done out there in the 60s. I know that Gill did a bunch of secret routes near Horsetooth Reservoir in CO that were legendary but unrecorded. Secret and hidden away. But there's no doubt he did some stuff that was way ahead of its time. Nice to see how they compare with the modern stuff.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 24, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
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Cool - I added several climbs from Phil's list to mine:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/hard.htm
The main problem is trying to figure out how to splice in boulder problems, topropes and highballs/solo.
The Thimble should probably be included.
What about Trice?
I left them all in, so if you don't count The Thimble, you can count some 5.11s done with ropes....
Here is my version of the "hardest climb in US", through 1984:
5c? (5.8) 1937 Mechanic's Route Tahquitz Dick Jones, Glen Dawson
6b (5.10c) 1949 Goodro's Crack Wasatch (UT) Harold Goodro
V8 1957 John Gill
7C (5.13d?, V9) 1959 Red Cross Overhang (original dynamic style) Jenny Lake, Tetons John Gill maybe too short to be considered (3-4 moves).
6b+ (5.10d) 1959 Bastille Direct Start Eldorado Ray Northcutt
7b+/7A (5.12c, V5) 1961 Thimble, North Face Needles (SD) John Gill 30' high.
6c+ (5.11) 1965 Son of Great Chimney Devil's Lake (WI) Pete Cleveland
6c+ (5.11c) 1967 Foops Shawangunks John Stannard
6c/7a (5.11d R) 1967 Superpin Needles Pete Cleveland
7c (5.12d, toprope) 1969 Bagatelle Devil's Lake Pete Cleveland
7b (5.12b) 1973 Kansas City Shawangunks John Bragg
7b (5.12) 1973 Paisano Overhang Suicide Rock John Long
7b+ (5.12c) 1974 Supercrack Shawangunks Steve Wunsch
8B (5.13d+?, V13) 1975 Trice (AHR) Flagstaff Mtn. (CO) Jim Holloway maybe too short to be considered.
7c+ (5.13a) 1977 The Phoenix Yosemite Ray Jardine
7c+/8a (5.13a/b) 1977 Phlogiston Devil's Lake Pete Cleveland
8a/8a+ (5.13b/c) 1979 Grand Illusion Sugarloaf (CA) Tony Yaniro
8a+ (5.13c) 1984 Maniac Quoddy Head (ME) Dan Goodwin
I have seen a lot of conflicting ratings for The Thimble (the above included!). The one I most remember is 5.12c from when people were trying to repeat it in the 80s.
Unfortunately a list like this is very sensitive to ratings....
Maybe Supremacy Crack 5.11b 1965 should be in there, but my understanding is that it was led with hangs, so that does not match up with the styles of the other climbs. Maybe in as a toprope.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2012 - 09:47pm PT
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Interesting list in your link, Clint. Thanks!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Mar 25, 2012 - 12:02am PT
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Now wouldn't this make a popular coffee-table must-have climbing book with color photographs to illustrate it? Plus, a AAC grant to tour the whole world to do it! Deep pockets anyone?
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Mar 25, 2012 - 12:03am PT
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I have seen a lot of conflicting ratings for The Thimble (the above included!). The one I most remember is 5.12c from when people were trying to repeat it in the 80s.
I think the consensus difficulty is probably V4 or 5.12 a/b. Having only done it on top-rope however, I will readily acknowledge that the pucker factor would be way off the charts without a rope.
Curt
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 25, 2012 - 12:06am PT
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It would be interesting to see this done on a world basis. That is, the progressively 'harder' climbs around the world, perhaps distinguished by type of climbing. It might tell quite a different story, although the US udoubtedly led in the areas of aid/wall climbing, crack climbing, and bouldering into the late 1970s.
Also interesting that people were already doing V9 or V10 boulder problems in the late 1970s.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 25, 2012 - 12:24am PT
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Anders,
The link to my page is a world list - I just extracted the US climbs from it.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Mar 25, 2012 - 12:35am PT
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Also interesting that people were already doing V9 or V10 boulder problems in the late 1970s.
Make that the late 1950s. Gill was certainly doing boulder problems in the V7-V9 range then.
Curt
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pbernard02
Trad climber
Chester, CA
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Mar 25, 2012 - 12:46am PT
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Now wouldn't this make a popular coffee-table must-have climbing book with color photographs to illustrate it? Plus, a AAC grant to tour the whole world to do it! Deep pockets anyone?
Yesss please.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 25, 2012 - 01:59am PT
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I also did the Thimble with a top umbilical cord, but I'd say .12a
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 25, 2012 - 10:26am PT
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The first ascent of Supremacy Crack was done as a toprope problem. It was later led by the first ascencionist, using pitons for protection! I was *present* for the toprope FA as the belayer. At no point did Patrick Oliver revert to *hanging*!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Mar 25, 2012 - 10:39am PT
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1918 The Wilder Kopf, Westkante in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains by Emanuel Strubich - 5.10c,
2008 Jumbo Love. Clark Mountain CA by Chris Sharma (5.15b)
10c to 15b in 90 years.
It would be interesting to see date and difficulty graphed more completely.
Then it could be shown when major advances really occurred.
Were they reallt during the "Golden Ages" or has there been a steady increase over the years?
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all in jim
climber
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Mar 25, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
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1906 5.9 Teufelsturm, Oliver Perry-Smith, Elbsandstein
1910 5.10a Kreutzturm, Max Matthaeus, Elbsandstein
1949 5.10c Goodro's Crack, Harold Goodro, Big Cottonwood Canyon
1954 5.11 Fissure Brown, Joe Brown, Don Whillans, Alps
1961 5.12a/b (V5 - solo) The Thimble, John Gill, Needles
1967 5.12b Macabre Roof, Greg Lowe, Ogden Canyon (onsight lead?)
1969 5.12d (tr) Bagatelle, Pete Cleveland, Devil's Lake
1972 5.12b Kansas City, John Bragg, Gunks
1973 5.12c Paisano Overhang, John Long, Suicide Rock
1974 5.12c Super Crack, Steve Wunsch, Gunks
1975 5.12d Psycho Roof, Steve Wunsch (or Jim Collins?), Eldorado Canyon
1977 5.13a The Phoenix, Ray Jardine, Yosemite
1977 5.13a (tr) Phlogiston, Pete Cleveland, Devil's Lake
1979 5.13b Grand Illusion, Tony Yaniro, Sugarloaf
1984 5.13d Kanal im Rucken, Wolfgang Gullich, Altmuehltal
1985 5.14a Punks in the Gym, Wolfgang Gullich, Mt. Arapiles
1986 5.14a Ghetto Blaster, Wolfgang Gullich, Frankenjura
1986 5.14a La Rage de Vivre, Antoine Le Menestral, Buoux
1986 5.14a Ultimo Movimento, Manolo, Totoga
1990 5.14c Hubble, Ben Moon, Raven Tor
1991 5.14d Action Directe, Wolfgang Gullich, Frankenjura
1995 5.15b Akira, Fred Rouhling, Charente
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