Fifty years of "hardest climb in the US"

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KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Sep 27, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
How do you define a hardest route?

Would you rather take yer best shot on some Smith Rock 5.14? Or roll the dice on one of MCR North Apron's 5.10x/5.11x suicide Grade III's?

One path to equity, obviously, is a route or routes' advancement of the proverbial high bar.

And Smith did, indeed, begin to mainstream Sport here in the States. Actually, compared to local Eastside Sport Crags, with bolts every bodylength or so, most of Smith's 5.10 Sport is actually pretty sporty, with 40 foot wings possible.

But, in a long overdue fan mail I've been trying to get around to actually finishing, I think the free climbing push in the '70s Valley, particularly runnout bolted face/slab ushered in a second Yosemite Golden Era, arguably comparable to the '50/'60s Big Wall Golden Era. Isn't Meyer's 1st Topo the defining document?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 27, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
I could give a flying f*#k about the hardest route, I do care about the hardest route I can do. Climbing is very personal and that is why it's with you for a lifetime.
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