Woodson 2012

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Messages 541 - 560 of total 700 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
PerlonHex

Sport climber
Orange County, Ca.
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
harharhar! I was at Woodson this holiday weekend and did the SB and a few others. SB might even be V2++ if you know the trick. No knees, just a trick Yabo showed me. Lot's of guys do that problem every weekend. It is no big deal.
No way you can do that thing Splitter. Zero chance and a couple of guys on the hill have $$$ they can't wait to throw down. You can tape to the middle as far as they care. They said you are just old and weird and trolling.
PerlonHex - i just noticed on your Jtree campsite post that yer wife is an OTR. so am i! if you lived down here and climbed at woodson, perhaps i know you or your wife since the occupational therapy business is fairly close nit (or use to be)! i work pimarily in hands/upper extremity out patient. good field!!
By the way OTR has nothing to do with what you are thinking. LOL! Are you retarded or sumthin?
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
Johannsolo - Take your BS elsewhere Splitshitter/PH! Not funny.
Uhm, you did just make a post in regards to me up thread, bro!...
Johannsolo - I was just down there last weekend and no Splitter.
So I responded (otherwise i had no intentions of posting on this thread).

AND, once again, I'm only doing this out of respect for the FA & SA (Piggott & Long)! I here all this sh#t about it is ONLY V-whatever!

Other than that, I have a lot of respect for you guys, b'cuz yer keeping Woodson alive and in the picture (so to speak)! KUDOS!!
PerlonHex

Sport climber
Orange County, Ca.
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
My Lord, you are retarded.
BTW, OTR = Registered Occupational Therapist!
That looks a lot like ROT to me, not OTR.
OTR = On The Rag. If she was an occupational anything I would have been at JT all week instead of getting my ass chewed out. Turkey in SD is always good though and a trip up MW for some classics never hurts too.

Keep trolling with your $$$$ to do an easy problem. Even at V2 I think you might be in over your head.
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
Take your BS elsewhere. Splitshitter/PH. Not funny.
PerlonHex

Sport climber
Orange County, Ca.
Nov 28, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
Johan, go do a pullup or something. You are getting schooled on the hill by an old man and a troll.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 28, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
this thread got weird.

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Nov 29, 2012 - 09:23am PT
with all due respect, i've done silk bannana with piggot countless times and he ratchets the kneebar just like everybody else. to do otherwise would be like climbing mother superior -- without the crack. makes no sense.
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 29, 2012 - 09:43am PT
Does anyone recognize this Woodson problem? Or the person in it?

Credit: www.climbingtoposofsandiego.com
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 29, 2012 - 09:45am PT
Bob, it goes without the kneebar. First few times I did it was with that first kneebar/rest. Never tried doing any kneebars after that first kneebar (didn't occur to me, or I'm not tall enough??) i just underclinged it from there on. It CAN be done! I probably wasted WAY to much time getting to that point, anyway. Plus, I was never really that good of a climber to begin with. SO, if I could do it, I suspect others can/could. The first kneebar doesn't really help much anyway, since the very next move/undercling is the first really hard one. Josh Higgins almost sent it. If you watch the vid, it looks as though he wasted valuable energy trying to get/use additional kneebars (after the first one). I don't think he is from the San Diego area, and probably only tried it that day (him & his buddy). I suspect that if he had returned to try again (or worked on it a few different days) he would have eventually got it, because he came pretty close. And, like I said, I'm sure there are plenty of much harder things being done at Woodson, stuff I sure in hell could never done/do!! But, SB is a great problem, and a good core body workout at the end of the day, if for nothing else!! I just wanted to keep the stoke/interest going, in regards to it!
PerlonHex

Sport climber
Orange County, Ca.
Nov 29, 2012 - 09:53am PT
Bob, it goes without the kneebar.


Duh! and is V2+ so give it up.
REIGN 1

Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
Nov 29, 2012 - 11:07am PT
Hi guys, Donny here. Dan and I never really tried to sandbag anybody at woodson. The boulder problems up on that hill were so easy to us that we just figured everyone could do them, Even Henny was able to do some things up there. albeit after we showed him the moves countless times. Poor chicken would try to scratch his way up things........no style at all. I'm not sure if he still climbs........
Gersh

Trad climber
San Diego, Ca
Nov 29, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
REIGN 1, you showed my buddy and I around Woodson back in the late 80's. We were a couple of high school grommets that would often run in to you, Piggot, and Tom L. Also a guy named Todd from A16. You guys gave us the tour of all the classics and then some. I remember learning how to hip belay anchored in to the base of Uncertainty Principle. Thanks for some good times!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Nov 29, 2012 - 01:54pm PT
IMHO, Silk Bananna is a good, honest, workingman's Woodson 11c.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 29, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
then what is Jaws? 10a? Because I flashed Jaws in the heat and SB might as well be B4. lol.




p.s.... I'm a weak midget with small hands... I think I answered my own question. Nevermind, carry on!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Nov 29, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
Jaws vs. Silk Bannana? Apples and oranges. Might as well compare Sherries Crack vs. Generator Crack.
PerlonHex

Sport climber
Orange County, Ca.
Nov 29, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
bvb:
IMHO, Silk Bananna is a good, honest, workingman's Woodson 11c.

11c is V2+ as I've been saying. Look it up on the charts Spitter. The SB is just not that hard.

The Jaws is maybe 10b and depends on hand size. Might be 5.9 for GDavis and other midgets with the small digits.

I have always thought Drivin South was about V1+ if you had any technique.
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 29, 2012 - 06:07pm PT
5.11c = 6a = V3
klk

Trad climber
cali
Nov 29, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
glad to see that woodson is still folding folks into its warm welcoming embrace


and sb is lite

heh
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:27pm PT
np henny....ya see, used to be i would guard unclimbed lines and new areas with great care (hiding trailhead with brush piles, coming and going under cover of darkness, tunnel networks, disguises etc)until i had mopped up all the FAs i (and allenby usually) could manage. After that i would bring in my buddies, like epps, MP, amondovar bros etc to climb the cracks and other undesirable features, THEN leak the location. Now that age has reduced me to a lowly, god forsaken 5.10 (on a good day) climber, my new routes have become trails to new routes, and benevolent humanitarian that i am, i direct those who are able to the potential lines i come across. Last year when i cut a trail network that opened up all kinds of potential on the south slope i blatantly advertised, on this very site, that plums were there for the picking. The response was no response until i dragged horvath down there and stood him in front of what became "flight of the ox". I know a line when i see it, even if i cant crank em like i used to.

So go past the terminator, take the downhill leg and turn left at the big boulder, then head straight for 50 feet to a small boulder, hop over to the next rock, climb to the top and gaze down upon the land o plenty. Thats more info than any woodson local should need...we dont do coordinates in these parts, except to pick the right bandana to match our sox.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:40pm PT
yah as far as SB goes, i got a c-note that says i flail like a gut shot wildebeest on it before dropping to the deck and pulling a muscle. Who's in?
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