Woodson 2012

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Messages 541 - 560 of total 691 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 29, 2012 - 01:27am PT
this thread got weird.

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Nov 29, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
with all due respect, i've done silk bannana with piggot countless times and he ratchets the kneebar just like everybody else. to do otherwise would be like climbing mother superior -- without the crack. makes no sense.
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 29, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
Does anyone recognize this Woodson problem? Or the person in it?

Credit: www.climbingtoposofsandiego.com
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 29, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
Bob, it goes without the kneebar. First few times I did it was with that first kneebar/rest. Never tried doing any kneebars after that first kneebar (didn't occur to me, or I'm not tall enough??) i just underclinged it from there on. It CAN be done! I probably wasted WAY to much time getting to that point, anyway. Plus, I was never really that good of a climber to begin with. SO, if I could do it, I suspect others can/could. The first kneebar doesn't really help much anyway, since the very next move/undercling is the first really hard one. Josh Higgins almost sent it. If you watch the vid, it looks as though he wasted valuable energy trying to get/use additional kneebars (after the first one). I don't think he is from the San Diego area, and probably only tried it that day (him & his buddy). I suspect that if he had returned to try again (or worked on it a few different days) he would have eventually got it, because he came pretty close. And, like I said, I'm sure there are plenty of much harder things being done at Woodson, stuff I sure in hell could never done/do!! But, SB is a great problem, and a good core body workout at the end of the day, if for nothing else!! I just wanted to keep the stoke/interest going, in regards to it!
REIGN 1

Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
Nov 29, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
Hi guys, Donny here. Dan and I never really tried to sandbag anybody at woodson. The boulder problems up on that hill were so easy to us that we just figured everyone could do them, Even Henny was able to do some things up there. albeit after we showed him the moves countless times. Poor chicken would try to scratch his way up things........no style at all. I'm not sure if he still climbs........
Gersh

Trad climber
San Diego, Ca
Nov 29, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
REIGN 1, you showed my buddy and I around Woodson back in the late 80's. We were a couple of high school grommets that would often run in to you, Piggot, and Tom L. Also a guy named Todd from A16. You guys gave us the tour of all the classics and then some. I remember learning how to hip belay anchored in to the base of Uncertainty Principle. Thanks for some good times!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Nov 29, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
IMHO, Silk Bananna is a good, honest, workingman's Woodson 11c.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
then what is Jaws? 10a? Because I flashed Jaws in the heat and SB might as well be B4. lol.




p.s.... I'm a weak midget with small hands... I think I answered my own question. Nevermind, carry on!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Nov 29, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
Jaws vs. Silk Bannana? Apples and oranges. Might as well compare Sherries Crack vs. Generator Crack.
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 29, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
5.11c = 6a = V3
klk

Trad climber
cali
Nov 29, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
glad to see that woodson is still folding folks into its warm welcoming embrace


and sb is lite

heh
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
np henny....ya see, used to be i would guard unclimbed lines and new areas with great care (hiding trailhead with brush piles, coming and going under cover of darkness, tunnel networks, disguises etc)until i had mopped up all the FAs i (and allenby usually) could manage. After that i would bring in my buddies, like epps, MP, amondovar bros etc to climb the cracks and other undesirable features, THEN leak the location. Now that age has reduced me to a lowly, god forsaken 5.10 (on a good day) climber, my new routes have become trails to new routes, and benevolent humanitarian that i am, i direct those who are able to the potential lines i come across. Last year when i cut a trail network that opened up all kinds of potential on the south slope i blatantly advertised, on this very site, that plums were there for the picking. The response was no response until i dragged horvath down there and stood him in front of what became "flight of the ox". I know a line when i see it, even if i cant crank em like i used to.

So go past the terminator, take the downhill leg and turn left at the big boulder, then head straight for 50 feet to a small boulder, hop over to the next rock, climb to the top and gaze down upon the land o plenty. Thats more info than any woodson local should need...we dont do coordinates in these parts, except to pick the right bandana to match our sox.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Nov 29, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
yah as far as SB goes, i got a c-note that says i flail like a gut shot wildebeest on it before dropping to the deck and pulling a muscle. Who's in?
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:52am PT
bvb - IMHO, Silk Banana is a good, honest working mans .11c!
Using your knee/kneebars? Yes! But it's obviously harder if you don't/can't use kneebars.

V0 - 5.10
V1 - 5.10+
V2 - 5.11
V3 - 5.11+
V4 - 5.12-
V5 - 5.12a/b
V6 - 5.12b/c
V7 - 5.12c/d
V8 - 5.13
V9 - 5.13a/b
V10 - 5.13b/c
V11 - 5.13c/d
V12 - 5.14a/b
V13 - 5.14b/c
V14 - 5.14c/d
V15 - 5.15

So, Josh Higgins sends these 5.13's in the Pinnacles, etc., and he can't boulder out a Woodson 5.11c?

EDIT: here is what it boils down to with the kneebars on SB: you have to be very tall! Rick Piggott = @6'6" How tall are you BVB?

bvb - all i'm saying is that it's a LOT harder than 11c if you don't/can't kneebar it. I'm pretty sure Josh Higgins will attest (agree) to this!

Just keeping it real!

:)
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
Psyched for this weekend! The forecast says cloudy and <70 degrees. PRIME!

Who's gonna be there?

A roadside gem.
A roadside gem.
Credit: darkmagus

Some seriously slick slopers.
Some seriously slick slopers.
Credit: darkmagus
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:30pm PT


Whatev's ya big fat homo spraylords. Quit trifling a great Woodson classic with your frikkin' penis measuring pissing match.
rbolton

Social climber
The home for...
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
Ooooh...look at that delicate toe placement! That man has Eldo-prancer written all over him!
Horvath

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
and I didn't think it could get worse...

Magus, I won't be making it this weekend man, its raining, have fun if you go!

Rick, I don't think ox has seen a 2nd, but maybe. Some other guys on the hill have tried it, but it hasn't really seen a lot of attention....idk

I cannot do SB, or at least have not done it... haven't tried in a year either. I think its hard. Splitter I have 13 bucks in my wallet, thats all I'm wagering. You seem to be really enjoying writing about your send.

Henny, give me a shout if you make it down here. Ron's directions are good, but if you want a guide and you can't link up with him, I can show you around as well.

Psyched for some RAIN!!
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
Juanito said
I thought that if I could do routes that mr big time climber couldn't, maybe I had a future in the sport.
Since that was back in '85, how did it turn out? Did you have a future in climbing? Just curious.
I saw the same guy do a problem that I had been trying but couldn't do. I didn't realize that had implications about my future.
REIGN 1

Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
Nov 30, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
Gersh, thanks for the props. Woodson was a really fun place to climb back then. We always liked showing newbs the classic climbs and boulder problems. Rick showed us the routes that we never knew extisted and more. Those are the days I miss.........
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