Woodson 2012

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Messages 561 - 580 of total 690 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
yep yep, and if 11c at woodson would be 12b or c at your favorite clip n dangle redpoint-o-rama spurt climbing area, it doesnt mean theres something wrong with the ratings at woodson, it just means youve never seen a real 11c. That sh*t aint supposed to be easy.

On Rick Piggot, that guy was the genuine enchilada. Boulder with him for an hour and you come away with a new definition of strong. He found and climbed the hardest, most classic climbs on the hill, would send anything you took him to, had balls of solid stainless steel, is the most accomplished climber in the history of mt woodson, yet he was never smug or egotistical. A man of few words and mighty deeds who set the woodson standard for climbs, climbing ability and personal class.
hellcyon

climber
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
Hoping to stoke a different kind of fire ....


Big Pine Circuit
Big Pine Circuit
Credit: hellcyon

Most all of my photos up thread are off of this circuit. Sorry for the slow response to some of your questions/emails. I cut most of the trail this past summer. With winter upon us my energies are compelled elsewhere, but perhaps someone else will find some fun along the way...Happy Trails! :)
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 2, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
Credit: gonamok
here ya go henny
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 2, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
copy of photo by darkmangus
copy of photo by darkmangus
Credit: gonamok
A beautiful shot of Epperson's "Moroccan Menace" no holds, just slap like a maniac
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 2, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
need to visit the V.P. office

Agreed. Regardless of what people rate that thing, I believe it was the hardest thing I ever did at Woodson. Throw in that approach and the primeval, remote location, and it's a full-value expedition.
deepnet

Boulder climber
San Diego
Dec 2, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
Morracan Menace...One of my fav's BITD
"Masters' of the Universe" area has such a fine concentration of challenging problems!
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 2, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
Ron -

Hahaha, guess I asked for that. Good one.
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 3, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
EDIT: It might be a troll to begin with, but if you're adding "+" or "-" to your V-scale ratings, you're doing it wrong.

I went up the hill on Saturday, it was a bit wet on the ground but the boulders were dry! Saw a guy teaching his kid to throw rocks off into the bushes. I told him that he might hit a climber if he did that. The wife laughed at him.

I did a few random problems near the summit (the flakey 5.9ish thing on the boulder with the structure on top).

I love the Masters of the Universe area... I tried K.P.'s demise, and GOT SO CLOSE. Smeared and high-stepped my way up, to no avail. I also discovered where "He Man" (mantel problem) is. Gonna work that thing next time, as I love Woodson mantels.

Really psyched to get out there this week again, and of course next weekend!
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 4, 2012 - 07:49pm PT
Maybe this will get people fired up to try what has to be one of the most badass new problems on the hill. Heres Greg Horvath on his heinous creation, "Flight of the Ox". I think he called it V6, but after bouldering with Greg then watching him send this thing, i think that grade may be a bit modest.
Credit: gonamok
Credit: gonamok
Credit: gonamok
Credit: gonamok
Credit: gonamok
I used pics from a previous attempt for two perspectives. FA was on 5/20/11
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 4, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
oops, cant forget the top-out shots
Credit: gonamok
Credit: gonamok
deepnet

Boulder climber
San Diego
Dec 4, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
Nice shots Ron! Where the hell is that thing?
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
I always considered Silk Banana to be impossible for me (I was right). Luckily, I was fine with that because, well, what else are you gonna do? Having said that, it seems to me that having long legs relative to your height and/or being tall in general is a HUGE advantage on this climb. If you can't get knee locks, good luck. I thinK that RP and BVB have the exact right body types for this climb (me, and say, Gonamok, maybe not so much). Now, of course, I'm impressed with Rick and BVB as climbers regardless - sheesh, they're frigging American climbing legends; HOWEVER, I would be REALLY impressed to see a short guy or a medium guy with short legs do this climb. Who's the shortest guy to do this climb? I'm guessing, no one shorter than 6'2".
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
I'm 6'1"!

Initially, I used the very first "kneebar" (left knee) as a rest. But eventually I didn't resort to it (or any kneebars) just underclings.

edit: like i said, it either didn't occur to me to try and use more kneebars, or I wasn't able to (don't recall).

Greg - nope, on the contrary. i have short legs relative to my height. my inseam is 32"/33"! regardless, my point was that it can be done without resorting to kneebars.

Hey, I'm familiar with how well most of you guys climb[ed]. I probably never got even close to that level. BUT, I spent a lot of time on it (SB) and eventually got it wired. SO, I suspect others could also.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
Damn!...I meant 6'2" +/- 1". I'm still in the hunt.

Edit: Actually, Splitter, we haven't considered the second part of the equation - do you have long legs relative to your height? It's like the anti-ape index.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
HOWEVER, I would be REALLY impressed to see a short guy or a medium guy with short legs do this climb. Who's the shortest guy to do this climb? I'm guessing, no one shorter than 6'2".

Dick Cilley, 5' 4" , industry standard for Woodson 11c
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
If Dick's done this, it totally blows my hypothesis (and reduces my batting average on sh#t like this to .090).
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:32pm PT
ok... I made that up..... just sitting here with a rum and juice drink. Your theory is probably still sound. Hi Greg!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
Don't mistake me for Rick Piggot, Splitter. If RP was like Jim Bridwell, I'd be like, John Candy.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 5, 2012 - 03:17am PT
So splitter, you climbed alot at woodson in the 80's? If so i probably know you. Im Ron Amick, whats your name?
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Dec 5, 2012 - 03:33am PT
Credit: gonamok
here are the trails that access flight of the ox, which is on the south side of split rock. Theres tons of other good problems in that area. Take the well defined trail going uphill (west) from slant crack and you will run into split rock. cant miss it.
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