PerlonHex
Sport climber
Orange County, Ca.
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
|
5.11c = 6a = V3
That sounds like V2++ from upthread. Spitter is a kook.
|
|
splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:52am PT
|
bvb - IMHO, Silk Banana is a good, honest working mans .11c! Using your knee/kneebars? Yes! But it's obviously harder if you don't/can't use kneebars.
V0 - 5.10
V1 - 5.10+
V2 - 5.11
V3 - 5.11+
V4 - 5.12-
V5 - 5.12a/b
V6 - 5.12b/c
V7 - 5.12c/d
V8 - 5.13
V9 - 5.13a/b
V10 - 5.13b/c
V11 - 5.13c/d
V12 - 5.14a/b
V13 - 5.14b/c
V14 - 5.14c/d
V15 - 5.15
So, Josh Higgins sends these 5.13's in the Pinnacles, etc., and he can't boulder out a Woodson 5.11c?
EDIT: here is what it boils down to with the kneebars on SB: you have to be very tall! Rick Piggott = @6'6" How tall are you BVB?
bvb - all i'm saying is that it's a LOT harder than 11c if you don't/can't kneebar it. I'm pretty sure Josh Higgins will attest (agree) to this!
Just keeping it real!
:)
|
|
darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 09:33am PT
|
Psyched for this weekend! The forecast says cloudy and <70 degrees. PRIME!
Who's gonna be there?
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
|
Whatev's ya big fat homo spraylords. Quit trifling a great Woodson classic with your frikkin' penis measuring pissing match.
|
|
rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:38pm PT
|
Ooooh...look at that delicate toe placement! That man has Eldo-prancer written all over him!
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
|
and I didn't think it could get worse...
Magus, I won't be making it this weekend man, its raining, have fun if you go!
Rick, I don't think ox has seen a 2nd, but maybe. Some other guys on the hill have tried it, but it hasn't really seen a lot of attention....idk
I cannot do SB, or at least have not done it... haven't tried in a year either. I think its hard. Splitter I have 13 bucks in my wallet, thats all I'm wagering. You seem to be really enjoying writing about your send.
Henny, give me a shout if you make it down here. Ron's directions are good, but if you want a guide and you can't link up with him, I can show you around as well.
Psyched for some RAIN!!
|
|
chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
|
Juanito said I thought that if I could do routes that mr big time climber couldn't, maybe I had a future in the sport. Since that was back in '85, how did it turn out? Did you have a future in climbing? Just curious.
I saw the same guy do a problem that I had been trying but couldn't do. I didn't realize that had implications about my future.
|
|
REIGN 1
Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
|
Gersh, thanks for the props. Woodson was a really fun place to climb back then. We always liked showing newbs the classic climbs and boulder problems. Rick showed us the routes that we never knew extisted and more. Those are the days I miss.........
|
|
REIGN 1
Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
|
Whats all the hoopla about silk banana? Just another woodson classic.
These (hardmen) need to visit the V.P. office and undertow to see what they got. Exit stage left, high on the hog, slap you silly, might give these (hard men) a little workout. There's so many good problems on that hill...........
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
|
yep yep, and if 11c at woodson would be 12b or c at your favorite clip n dangle redpoint-o-rama spurt climbing area, it doesnt mean theres something wrong with the ratings at woodson, it just means youve never seen a real 11c. That sh*t aint supposed to be easy.
On Rick Piggot, that guy was the genuine enchilada. Boulder with him for an hour and you come away with a new definition of strong. He found and climbed the hardest, most classic climbs on the hill, would send anything you took him to, had balls of solid stainless steel, is the most accomplished climber in the history of mt woodson, yet he was never smug or egotistical. A man of few words and mighty deeds who set the woodson standard for climbs, climbing ability and personal class.
|
|
hellcyon
climber
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
|
Hoping to stoke a different kind of fire ....
Most all of my photos up thread are off of this circuit. Sorry for the slow response to some of your questions/emails. I cut most of the trail this past summer. With winter upon us my energies are compelled elsewhere, but perhaps someone else will find some fun along the way...Happy Trails! :)
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
here ya go henny
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
A beautiful shot of Epperson's "Moroccan Menace" no holds, just slap like a maniac
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
need to visit the V.P. office
Agreed. Regardless of what people rate that thing, I believe it was the hardest thing I ever did at Woodson. Throw in that approach and the primeval, remote location, and it's a full-value expedition.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
Morracan Menace...One of my fav's BITD
"Masters' of the Universe" area has such a fine concentration of challenging problems!
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
Ron -
Hahaha, guess I asked for that. Good one.
|
|
darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
EDIT: It might be a troll to begin with, but if you're adding "+" or "-" to your V-scale ratings, you're doing it wrong.
I went up the hill on Saturday, it was a bit wet on the ground but the boulders were dry! Saw a guy teaching his kid to throw rocks off into the bushes. I told him that he might hit a climber if he did that. The wife laughed at him.
I did a few random problems near the summit (the flakey 5.9ish thing on the boulder with the structure on top).
I love the Masters of the Universe area... I tried K.P.'s demise, and GOT SO CLOSE. Smeared and high-stepped my way up, to no avail. I also discovered where "He Man" (mantel problem) is. Gonna work that thing next time, as I love Woodson mantels.
Really psyched to get out there this week again, and of course next weekend!
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Maybe this will get people fired up to try what has to be one of the most badass new problems on the hill. Heres Greg Horvath on his heinous creation, "Flight of the Ox". I think he called it V6, but after bouldering with Greg then watching him send this thing, i think that grade may be a bit modest. I used pics from a previous attempt for two perspectives. FA was on 5/20/11
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
oops, cant forget the top-out shots
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
Nice shots Ron! Where the hell is that thing?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!