Discussion Topic |
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 1, 2012 - 08:43am PT
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BAMB!
Guess who's working the nightshift, sitting at work bored on new years day- this guy. Might as well start the new thread.
Stories, sends, photos, and all forms of humor- apparently this year is the end so lets make it a good one.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Happy New Year!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Rick, can you count the number of problems just in that one photo!?
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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7 off the top of my head.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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I count at least 12, if you include problems that are only partially visible. Can't quite tell if you can see the top of Lemon Chifon or not.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Let's hear 'em all Bob...
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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What was your last climb of 2011?
What was your first climb of 2012?
My last climb of 2011 was Sunday afternoon. (Mt Woodson)
My first climb of 2012 was I'm Just a Bill (5.6) (Riverside quarry)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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ah, a wudshun trip would be sweet this year. How to make it happen. hrm, think on this I will.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Hey P-owed,
Did you use my cams for your first route of the year?
Maybe your new year's resolution should be to come clean and pay me for the cams I sent you over the summer?
Still waiting for that check.
Bob
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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I count 14
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Last climb of 2011 was the 5.11 traverse on the rough boys boulder at woodson. The first climb of 2012 was bolting a support frame to the top of a 20' wall at work.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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You can just make out the tops of the two face climbs in the corridor behind the Uncertainty boulder. +16.
Ron, pretty sure we did that sharp chossy hard crack between the two 5.11 face problems on the right hand edge of the photo?
+17
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Vas ist dis "Untertow" oof vitch you speak?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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yah bob that crack is kinda sealed off n crappy - ugly 10a/b. if you count the top of lemon chiffon and the face climbs right and left of it = 20 Add bozo no-no and the joker (both visible in profile) and you have 22.
Suffice it to say that theres a high density of climbs in that immediate area. If you count the other climbs on those rocks that you cant see, you would probably end up with around 50.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Mantle problem(s) on the bobby brown boulder, barney rubble in the distance, etc, etc. Would it be a stretch to count baby robbins?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jaybro -- this is the only photo I have of VP's Office. Dosen't show how steep and burly the first 15' are, but you get an idea. When you fall you go flying out of there. I was able to get absurdly bad fist jams by sticking my thumb out as far as it would go and fishing around for the little narrow inconsistancies in the crack. Anybody out there got better snaps?
Best part is when you clear the roof totally pumped and you're looking at 20 feet of overhanging way thin hands/off-fingers.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Digging around through anchient photos.
Lindner on Stairway, '85.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Doug, with the way you waltz most of the hard cracks up there, how come no action on VP Office...or have you already ticked that one too?
I only have two memories, with Ken Klis, on VP. We made no progress on the bottom of that thing and, like Bob already stated, would take the GIANT swing into space after coming out of it. Rapping down it I can remember seeing the overhanging off-hands to fingers that proceeded after that bottom section...sick! Like always, it would be cool to see someone on it after all these years.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Why in gods name anybody would want to get on a crack like that is beyond me. I pulled a muscle just looking at it.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jan 19, 2012 - 02:28am PT
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Does anyone have woodson photos that have yet to surface? Rummage through the archives and scan some slides! Accompanying stories are nice too.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 19, 2012 - 04:51am PT
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I do, Doug. I'm trying to get boxes and boxes of slides and prints organized and digitized. I'll trickle things out as I get to 'em. There's some fun stuff buried in this mess!
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jan 19, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
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I'm looking forward to them, BVB.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 19, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
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nice pic of tom.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jan 27, 2012 - 11:37pm PT
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Let's keep the stoke alive. What's everyone's favorite climb(s) at woodson? Top five, top three, top ten, top whatever...
Personally, I'm going to have to go with Driving South. Also, the right start to Stairway has to be one of the best boulder problems anywhere.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 28, 2012 - 12:19am PT
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Huh Doug that's a good one! I'm gonna pick my top five ('cause I like top five lists, top ten are too easy) and edit 'em in as I sort 'em out. Right off the bat, I know Jaws makes the list.
Lessee...if God granted me a wish, and I could do just five climbs at Woodson, but they'd have to be climbs I've already ticked...?
1. Jaws
2. Lie Detector (took a few minutes to think of that one.)
3. Head First In The Bushes
4.
5.
Ones I love that I already know won't make the cut: Aids Victim; Painted Boulder West Face; Robbins; The Widow, Bereft (that's the actual, gramatically correct name -- "The Widow, Bereft"); Pickpocket; Alcoa...hmmmmmm sh#t
Driving South is sooo good, and has massive sentimental value, but it's over in three f*#king moves...
Hear My Train seems obvious, dosen't it? But I've done it so many times in the last 35 years...I'm not burned out on it or anything, but I'm not sure it'd be a Desert Island Woodson Climb. Jaws I've done at least as many if not more times, and when I think Jaws, I think oh HELL YEAH.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Jan 28, 2012 - 01:14am PT
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as far as "ultra classic"...???
Hand's down..."Christ on Crutches"
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 28, 2012 - 02:17am PT
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That photo does not even begin to do justice to he f*#ked-up landing on that thing, Rick.
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
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Jan 29, 2012 - 02:44am PT
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VP's ofice has Henny's name all over it.
My favorite Woodson problems
1. Uncertainty principal
2. Mother superior
3. Seminar wall
4. Starving in stereo
5. Stairway to heaven
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jan 29, 2012 - 02:58am PT
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Lemon Chiffon? (only cuz that was one of my better efforts that day)
What time of year, ya'll thinking?
I'm in for a weekend trip. Ideally a day or two at Suicide would be the perfect complement to a Woodshun trip.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 29, 2012 - 03:15am PT
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Yeah Mungester, I've been sitting on the fence all day about Lemon Chiffon. You just nudged me off. It definately makes my Woodson Desert Island Climbs list. I've never gotten tired of it, it was part of me and Watusi's "Big Wednesday", and there is no question it is Powell's best boulder problem in California.
Way better then that stuff he did at Roobeedoo.
The new, updated (c)American Motherf*#king Legendary Top Five Woodson Climbs List:
1. Jaws
2. Lie Detector (took a few minutes to think of that one.)
3. Head First In The Bushes
4. Lemon Chiffon
5.
OMFUG only get to pick one more!
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
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man Christ on Crutches... its really a shame more people don't get on that thing.
this is gonna take some thought.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 29, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
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There are way to many to limit it to just five!
You're right. 5 ain't gonna do it. I'm switching to 10. BUT I'm going to list them as a traditional Top Ten with #1 being the best, #2 being the second best, and so on. Qualitative FTW!!1!!166!
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LMo
climber
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Jan 30, 2012 - 02:06am PT
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After another great day at Woodson I figured an update of happenings on the hill was in order. Mark, Doug, Jake and I (Lauren), set up in the odd January heat to show Jake, a Woodson newcomer around and to get my bush whacking quota filled for 2012. A couple pictures to keep you interested.
Started off at Robbins, the bees at the cracks above are seeming to grow in number. After that did Hamburger Crack for the first time. I must say I always scoffed at it but actually enjoyed it. After that we headed up to the Cave area- the place to be! At one point there were groups on Alcoa, the Cave, John's crack, Fisticuffs and Greg's crack.
After a day spent on something wide, Doug and Mark just had to get on Greg's crack. This is Doug, having fun, as per usual:
Then we went to Big Horn, everyone took a turn bouldering it, said goodbye to Jake and then headed up for some exploring. We went up and over the summit, and the potato chip rock was very popular (especially with aspiring yogis). Anyways, I will let you all look at where we ended up. Although this climb is a short distance from the trail there was still some full value bush whacking to be had for all.
A great day up on the hill and with that, a few of my favorite climbs:
Uncertainty Principle
Milkbar
Jaws
Will have to take more pictures next time.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 30, 2012 - 02:11am PT
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Wow, is that Firefly in the last photo?! Haven't been to it in well over 25 years.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 30, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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Guess I haven't been keeping current with this thread, Donny pokes me and 2 days later I finally see it. And then bvb has to go and try to insult Rubidoux by using KP's name. Now, mind you, I have zero problems with dragging KP's name through the mud, but trying to belittle a stellar place like Rubidoux while doing it is going just a little too far.
It's been too nice at home & in Idyllwild recently so I haven't been making it down. If we don't get some winter weather soon it may not be much of a Woodson season, consistently a little too hot.
Favorites? Any of the Woodson wannabe as good as Rubidoux problems. For crying out loud what'd ya think I'd say? Well, I'll try anyway: Flabob, Middle of the Road Madness, Coathanger, Pinkbug, Pyschoanalysis, The Ex, Bullethead, The Octopus, Popgun, Major Concept. I think that makes 10. Oh wait, Woodson favorites, not quality. Ok, well, in that case:
1. Big Grunt
2. Vice Prinicpals Office
3. Mother Superior
4. Silk Banana
5. Undertow
hahaha. Oh boy. Yeah, right.
Maybe I'll try again - in no particular order after #2.
1. Whatever the last problem I just did was
2. Any Woodson problem with "Rubidoux" in it's name (goes without saying)
3. Kurtains
4. Lie Detector
5. Slap You Silly (love/hate that pile)
Seriously, how is one supposed to come up with 5 favorites much less 10.
Edit: Don't go there. I'm just getting warmed up.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 30, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
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Took you long enough Darrel. I was beginning to think you were dead or something.
Pinkbug a clearly a boulder problem that was airlifted off Woodson in the dead of night and reinstalled at Roubidoux to give the place some cred. Has it been hit with graffiti yet, I wonder?
Where is Slap You Silly? Is that the impossible looking bowling-ball smooth arete down by Eppi Birthday?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 30, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
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That would be Slap You Silly. A gem, IMO. Just a few feet right of it's big brother and role model - if you know what I mean.
Has it been hit with graffiti yet, I wonder? Sorry, but I don't quite seem to follow what you're getting at.
Probably.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 30, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
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Doug, have fun working Greg's Crack. That thing is a burlfest. If you want any beta, let me know. I had some tricks. Have good spotters! And let me know next time you go out there! :)
Speaking of graffiti, if anyone sees any on Woodson let me know. I'll work on getting it removed. Just contact me directly instead of replying to this thread since I might not see it. Much appreciated!
Josh
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 30, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
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I'll second bvb's question, is that Firefly? (although I suspect bvb already knows) Looks good whatever it is.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 30, 2012 - 06:03pm PT
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Ho Man, it's Firefly all right. I had completely and totally forgotten about that thing. I only asked 'cause the last time I was down there was maybe the spring of 1985 with "Clint" Piggot and I think maybe Cilley. 27 years. Christ.
But after drooling over the photo awhile even the moves came back. The hardest moves (11c-ish) are getting into and then getting out of the undercling. Actually the whole thing is pretty sustained. Powerful. Not a lot of giveaway moves on it. You can just barely squeeze the very tips of your tips underneath that flake.
It's really good. Gorgeous feature on gorgeous rock. In fact, I'm putting it on my top ten list. So there. If it was easier to get to it would be heavily trafficked, highly sought after, and widely regarded as one of the best things on Woodson. The photo really tells the whole story. It's as good as it looks.
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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Jan 30, 2012 - 06:50pm PT
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Henny I had to throw you under the school bus on VP's office.
I think 'slap you silly' is one of the best routes at woodson. Pink bug on steroids? haha
another good face route is 'high on the hog' nexted to cool jerk. And it's a lead climb.
enough typing.....I'm going mountain biking
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LMo
climber
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Jan 30, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
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BVB, that is Firefly. Now to get Doug, Greg and Mark motivated to do some trail building.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jan 30, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
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Firefly is a good one for sure, went down there with Tom Scott many years ago
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jan 31, 2012 - 01:13am PT
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Firefly's proximity to the the main trail definitely surprised me. I had the idea that finding the boulder would constitute some epic vision quest. With a trail, the approach from the Ogre would take 2 minutes or less. More people should get on it, that's for sure.
Along the same lines, Christ on Crutches is pretty all-time. Hyperbole aside, that thing defines ultra classic.
As for Train, BVB, it does seem kind of obvious...the rock is super good, the climb has a cool history, and it is tall. There is definitely a lot of magic to running a lap on it. But it just doesn't have the sting that some other problems do. Driving South isn't enduro, but it is full value pulling the lip.
Yea Josh. I definitely did not make Greg's Crack look easy...it made me look easy. Sometime I would like to get back for another try though. With school, the days that I go to Woodson are pretty random and relatively spontaneous. I will shoot you an email.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jan 31, 2012 - 01:54am PT
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And LMo is right, Woodson was happening on Sunday! The entire stretch between the fire station driveway and the driveway west of the fire station driveway was full of cars. Plus cars were lined up (for quite a ways) along the 67 extending past both of those driveways. There were also cars parked on the opposite side of the 67
I can't say for certain, as we tried to avoid the crowds, but rumor is that a good number of them were headed for Christ on Crutches
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 31, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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Wow is right! Haven't been down to Firefly since being with Piggot back in the 80's, and it was a humbling discipleship to say the least! That was the time when I was first up (not by choice) and after making a lame effort to get over to that flake then hangdogging, Piggot says, "Are you through yet,?" simultaneously giving me slack to lower me to the ground.
Hey Doug, curious, when you headed north from the Ogre, did you end up standing on top of the Firefly boulder before carving down and right to the bottom of the problem, for this was the memory that I have when Piggot took me down there? There was a faint trail up to that point back then but I'm sure it's massively overgrown by now.
My fav unroped top five (that I remember spooking me at one time or another before succeeding):
1. IHMT (standing on the shelf calling for help...which never arrived)
2. Driving South (flying off the lip too many times and almost hitting my chest on the ground, narrowly missing that rock that juts up out of the ground)
3. Left Longs Crack (chickening out before lunging out to that cauliflower-like knob at the top, then forcing my body to swing towards the main wall before dropping to miss the slippery slab below)
4. Lemon Chiffon (burning rubber too many times by taking the cascade down on that thing at the crux)
5. Digits Delight (standing below the thin seam in the slab at the top, and realizing, this is going to suck if I blow it here!)
*pre-pad days youngins!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 31, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
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We switched to a top ten Gary, so you get to pick 5 more. Back in the '80's the trail went straight to the base of Firefly. I have no recollection whatsover what the TR set-up was. Bolts? Gear? I dunno.
Dogging a Woodson climb? Shame. SHAME. You're lucky Piggot didn't just unclip you and let you drop and then leave you there for dead.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 31, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
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five more? *sigh*...
6. can't forget the "10d" seam on the practice boulder (that thing STILL requires all my attention!)
7. Hard As Nails (props to those that solo it, jealous actually...what an aesthetic crack and location!)
8. The 5.8 chimney on Tower #2 (classic mantle out on the second ledge!)
9. the top of Lie Detector (I'll never get the bottom but what a classic finger crack it has in it! Aiding the bottom, then leading the top was ultra classic too!)
10. Big Grunt (I STILL will give $20 to whoever can do it without "grunting!")
Edit: I have to list one more for it's too pretty to leave out....Rockwork Orange!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 31, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
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Bob, I'm rolling....hahahaha!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 31, 2012 - 09:41pm PT
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All I remember is seeing Rick using a long sling for the anchor.
I'm out guys...gotta put this six year old to bed. He just asked me, "What's "edit"? He's a kick!
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snake pliskin
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 31, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
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Top 5 solo/highballs
1. Robbin's Crack
2. Jaws
3. Elsa's Crack
4. 5.8 Arete 20 feet down the road from Hamburger Crack (Does that thing have a name?)
5. Blackfinger or West Face of Painted Boulder w/ the saweeeet high step at the knob
Top 5 wishlist (either haven't sent it or haven't got on it yet)
1. Starving in Stereo
2. Crucible
3. Mother Superior
4. Uncertainty Principle
5. Hard as Nails
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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Jan 31, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
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10 now?
6. Fall semester
7. PHD
8. Bat flake
9. Go with the flow via the leap at the start
10. Test tube
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jan 31, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
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OK, here are detailed directions to Firefly. Hopefully some more people will go out there.
If you are approaching from the summit, walk the main trail all the way around the Ogre. The trail will then switchback south. Walk the complete switchback so that you are again on the northernmost extreme of the trail. From this point walk through a burned area while heading towards a boulder with three cracks in it. Instead of going all the way to the aforementioned boulder, cut right (east) and walk through brush for about 50ft. Then turn left (north) and walk straight down to the east side of the Firefly boulder. Continuing along the base, you will come to Firefly. The easiest way to the top of the boulder is from the east side (right next to the approach). Use finger size gear for an anchor; 0.3 - 0.5 BD sizes.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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I think I remember seeing Rockwork Orange listed as Clockwork Orange. Any truth to that?
Reign 1, Fall Semester is burly. That thing's no joke. Who did the FA?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nope, it's always been Rockwork Orange. Piggot did the FA's of Fall Semester, Spring Break, and Vice-Principal's Office, early 80's. Man he was on a f*#king roll. Anybody else ever get on Spring break? It's an oldie but a goodie. It's on the way to VP's Office, about halfway down.
I'm gonna add Out Of Sight to my top ten list. I know you'll all be abuzz over that tidbit of information.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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10, eh?
1. Whatever the last problem I did was
2. Welcome to Rubidoux
3. Kurtains
4. Lie Detector
5. Slap You Silly
6. Night Vision
7. Hard as Nails
8. Air Stream
9. Piece of Mind
10. Whatever the next problem I do is
It doesn't seem possible to put them in any definitive order though. And there are so many honorable mentions. Not to mention the countless problems that I haven't done that if I could/would/should I'd doubtless have to rework the list.
Favorites are so subjective. Hardest? Most meaningful? Most classic? Best smack-downs? etc, etc, etc...
The ones in my list that are the most likely to always be there are numbers 1 and 10. With the quantity of good problems at Woodson those 2 will likely always be true. If ya know what I mean.
Soon we'll be talking about our top 50 favorites and I'll be hosed. I've only done 47.5 problems so far at Woodson. Oh well.
abuzz? nice.
Where and what is Out of Sight?
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2012 - 01:00am PT
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bvb,
got any more info on Spring Break? I guess I haven't searched that hard, there is currently no trail to VP's from PhD and the brush up there is some of the most intense I have seen on the hill.
I'm sure buzzing...
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Mike Paul's topo (posted in another woodson thread) shows "20 point crack 5.11" across from Big Grunt. Does anybody know what climb this is?
Have any of the seams by Digit's Delight been freed? There's the one right behind Digits, there is the boulder which has Clicker, and then there is a short seam east of Digits.
Henny, Piece of Mind sounds familiar. What is it? Out of Sight is a right leaning hand crack on the way to PhD.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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After topping the mountain, before getting to the Dragon it's downhill a bit on the left. You know where Aces High is? It's on the same big boulder. I think there's an old telephone pole somewhat in proximity. I'll have to check a map/topo to give directions as I don't know the names of the other problems in the area.
Steep small hold edging. Tall. It can be led (5 bolts if I remember) or TR'd.
Edit: Now I'm thinking it might be more than 5 bolts. Who knows, I don't remember.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Cool. I know which boulder. I'll have to get on both Aces High and Piece of Mind.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Doug, the "20 point crack" across from Big Grunt is Werner's Wish. He gave it 20 points in a bouldering contest but it was a hike, hence the name. I'll dig up and post a photo. It's actually across the street, and a bit downhill, on the backside of the Poison Oak Crack boulder, i think. The climb is a leaning, overhanging flake/tips crack that leans right a bit then goes straight up.
There's another "Slap You Silly" type arete that just downhill and across the street from Hamburger Crack and on the same side of the road/downhill from Werner's Wish. There is a massive cleft/Chimmney formed by Two boulders, capped by a third boulder. Obvious from the road as you're hiking up past California Night and Jaws. Whack around down to the base of the chimmney, it's the arete on the left side. Me and Eric Ericsson and Jocelyn and maybe Kurt and Carmel and a couple others tried it one day and none of us got it. 86/87, thereabouts. Quality and clearly difficult. Somebody had some really good weed that day and we were seriously impaired.
Have any of the seams by Digit's Delight been freed? There's the one right behind Digits, there is the boulder which has Clicker, and then there is a short seam east of Digits.
I gave both of the seams by Digits many half-hearted attempts, but they just seemed way too futuristic. The short one on your left as you're standing at the base of Digits appears to have been slightly manufactured; I think climbing it will involve significant use of two-fingernail crimps and new-age shoes will help. I'm sure it's in the cards for today's mutants.
The one downhill on your right from digits, on the backside of the clicker boulder, seemed way more plausible and i devoted quite a few attempts to it. I think it felt more like an actual, but absurdly thin, crack climb? Absurd sorta-jams for the tips that you had to crimp and lean off to make work, but definately stuff for the feet. Right foot smearing in the shallow, bottoming crack and left foot on the face? 25 - 30 years ago. Dim recollections.
To my knowledge, to this day, they're both still vigin and worthy. Go git 'em!
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Oh duh, Werner's Wish.
It's funny, the other day I was lying underneath the cap (of the boulder with Cast of a Thousand Stones) trying to escape the hot air and I actually noticed the arete that you're talking about.
Last time I looked at the seam right by Digit's it looked way more doable than I remembered. That said, I didn't get on it so I wasn't reminded of how absolutely thin the feet are. At least there are a series of crimpable pinned out and/or manufactured pods... There are more seams along that switchback than anywhere else on woodson that I'm aware of. It's kind of crazy. And then there's the steep, leaning, and incredibly smooth seam east of Camlock. If that thing was jammable it would be amazing climbing.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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A half hearted attempt at 3rd classing Werner's Wish...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Speaking of WW...
This may not be new news to some but it was for me about two years ago. At the apex of the crack, when it angles right up to the dihedral, there is a hidden ledge/top of a flake about two feet, directly up from this spot. A fried of mine, Chris Kleppe, described it one day (after finding it himself while on rappell) and convinced me to give it a go. Whoa, too cool! I don't think it's any harder but definitely a more direct variation! I've heard others (Donny, Dan, MP?) foot traversing that finger traverse at the start too!
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Hey Donny, I was going to include Bat Flake too for the start to that thing is sweet! So clean, double overhanging, classic body position and a hint of stemming. The only reason why I didn't was the OW at the top. I've been told of the hidden face hold/exit up on the flake about midway up the OW, but STILL haven't finished that thing!
Fall Semester, that thing PUMPED me out! Never got it.
Out of Sight crack, 5.9:
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Came across this while perusing rc.com, gotta love it:
"Anonymous hardman (aka bvb), in full mid-70's hairfarmer mode, hiking an obscure V6 Woodson highball, circa 1978. But enough about the route and the burly skill clearly in evidence...let's check out those threads! for today's bouldering outfit, our hero, clearly willing to take the most outrageous fashion risks, will be sporting a pair of Haines long underwear, neatly paired with a "tighty whitey" wifebeater tank top and cleverly accesorized with a pair of dainty powder blue corduroy shorts. grey sweat socks provide a firm anchor for the loose cuffs of the long undies, ensuring they don't ride up on those big woodson high step moves -- an often feared fashion faux pas to be avoided at all costs. rounding out today's sporting ensemble will be a length of green 2" tubular webbing, cleverly color coordinated with bob's green RR's (at the time, one of the few available alternatives to eb's) and a home-made chalkbag supported by a $2.35 cent eiger oval beaner looped through the webbing. yes ladies and gentlemen, fashion-forward style sense like this comes along once in a generation...thank god..."
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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snake pliskin...
Sounds like you're having a blast up there on the mountain and have already got your feet wet on some classic Woodson stone. As far as I know, you pretty much called it correctly, the "5.8 arete." In all honesty, most, if not all, of those posting on this thread have probably done that thing more than once in their gazillion years on Woodson. It's not surprising, to me, that it's on your list. It's definitely a classic roadside problem!
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
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Hey Gary spill the beans on that photo above!
5.8 arete is recently referred to as Baby Edge, but I doubt thats the originial name...
Anyone have any information on this arete? The thing has been bugging me for about a year and I finally did it on tuesday. It has a bolt at the start to A0 your way over the undercut bulge. After that, totally classic 5.9/10- edges with one cruxy smear move to get established on the arete. Unfortunately no bolts on top.
Thank you Doug for the shots!
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snake pliskin
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Greg,
Where is that thing? Playground?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Greg, you talkin' about the one of BVB in his fancy outfit? I have no idea what or where that is. I'm sure Bob does though.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
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Pliskin,
Its up just above the Cave. The big fin on the right is the Sail. Basically its like 50 feet east of Digits Delight! Right in the middle of it all!
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snake pliskin
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Didn't recognize the Sail at first glance.
Last couple weekends have been much fun up on the hill. Planning on a trip to the valley in the spring, so I've been trying to work out some kinks in the offwidth game. Last weekend was Crucible and Sickle Crack with some family fun on the solo circuit.
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LMo
climber
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A couple pictures from another great weekend out at Woodson:
Here is Mark K cruising up the Painted Boulder at sunset- a great way for him to top off the day after christening a fresh pair of Kaukulators on his send of The Widow, Bereft!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Those are some sketchy moves on that painted boulder! The shaded north face has some mind benders as well, up the FAT brown stain to the horizontal seam then following it left to the top!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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The Widow, Bereft
At last, people are getting the name right! I can now die a happy man.
Gary, you ever do the thing at the far left in that last photo, goes up the brown streak just right of the white paint streak on edges then finishes up the seam/crack? I only did it twice, and it scared the bejeus out of me both times. You do NOT want to fall off the top of that f*#ker.
As has been mentioned upthread, that hand/foot match on the undercling and knob on the West Face of Painted Boulder is one of the most aesthetic and spatially satisfying at Woodson. Love it. And I was still able to do it last time up there! w00t!
EDIT: Oh, I just realized we're talking about the same problem. North face, brown streak. Yep. Like landing on concrete if you pitch.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Anyone else want to name a few more in this photo?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Geeze Bob, I almost thought you were referring to a "direct" version of the line I mentioned, for I've always heard a rumor that Woodward had done one! Directly up the THIN (vs. FAT) brown streak to the seam to the top. Any truth to that?
Edit: yep, concrete covered with ball bearings!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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No Gary, I think were talking about the same thing. Sizable edges finishing with a sizable reach move up to the horizontal seam, a sketchy move or two left to get to where the seam goes vertical, then straight up -- which is where it felt insecure and scary to me.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Yeah, a thin high-step up to reach the horizontal seam, which turns out to to be slopey and slippery fingers, then two desperate pieces of footwork left, to a nice "ledge," then able to reach that jug at the bottom of the vertical seam. Even though the climbing is probably only 5.8-5.9 above, it's all business from there! Gotta love it, "You do NOT want to fall off the top of that...!"
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Ah, different lines we're talking. The way I was going up was more like just left of center between those two brown streaks, more directly underneath the section where the seam turns vertical.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Gary, you should know not to believe everything you read on the internet, that photo is a sandbag. Its actually at Deerhorn Valley, with BeeHay in the lower right and Galen's nose at the bottom. I think its over on the Dinosaur Rock side of things.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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I never said I "believed" it, I was just posting Woodson related information from a website that is reputed to be Woodson material. The caption was what I was really interested in, Woodson or not. I, as well, read that that photo was taken elsewhere on another ST thread. Other than that, I know nothing. What have you been up to these days?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Well, Bob, where you're talking is in the general area that the rumored line was heard to have been done. Maybe it was YOU that the rumor was to have stemmed from! We/I never could piece that one together. Would be cool to see more pictures of people on that face though.
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Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
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The boulder problem in question (just to the right of the paint streak, I've always heard it referred to as Woodward Direct) definitely "goes". A few of my friends have done it recently. You can see my chalk from many failed attempts from earlier in the day. I'd be curious to hear how it was done B.I.T.D. Current beta involves a giant move to a good sloper; a big armspan definitely helps. After that, obviously keep it together at the top. Good stuff.
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snake pliskin
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Wait, how many different problems are we talking here? I've done the west face (in yellow) with the high step that mark is on (I've pitched off it too, which wasn't fun), I've played on the line in the green on that northwest corner by the brown streak, and I've played on the line in the green by the brown streak on the left as a dyno from good edges and a high right foot. Are you talking about a problem between the two Bob?
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snake pliskin
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Also, is there a name for that west face with the high step? Woodward Step or something? I thought I had heard that.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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The way I'd get up it was about about halfway between the pink and green lines, more towards the pink. The highstep problem has never had a name but it was already established by early in '74, at least. I've always referred to it as the west face of the painted boulder.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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So, this "Woodward" person sounds rather fictional to me. Sort of an Oliver Moon kind of thing. Has anyone ever actually seen this guy boulder at Woodson, or is he just some kind of a myth that has been propagated over the years? Sounds pretty suspect to me.
I mean, if such a person ever existed he must not have been a local. So how could he have done any FA's at Woodson? The locals would never have let such a thing occur.
Would they?
Ooops.
10a on the Outside (a problem so easy it was FA'd in tennis shoes first try, and the locals were still robbed.) Deport Johnny. Welcome to Rubidoux. Lemon Chiffon. Woodward (that name again?) Arete. To name a few. The list goes on and on.
Forgot about those.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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SP...I think you flipped flopped your words here, but I think I still understand, lol:
"I've played on the line in the green on that northwest corner by the brown streak, and I've played on the line in the green by the brown streak on the left as a dyno from good edges and a high right foot.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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"Big Head" on Woodward Arete...
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Oh, ok. Him.
That name I recognize.
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snake pliskin
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Yeah, the pink line was the one with the dyno. I haven't been on it in awhile, and would be interested to find an actual sequence. through there. Prollyt heads up the way BVB's talking about.
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snake pliskin
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Anyone have any info on this problem? The face to the right of the Seminar boulder. I've done it a handful of times and it's pretty classic. Slightly overhanging on decent edges and heads up left on a small rail to a mantle onto the slab. Crux is the first few moves. Goes at about 5.10a/b?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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That's the descent route for Eric's Crack!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Harder than that, more like 10d.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Some ancient hard man...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Who's the guy in the bushes "ancient" one?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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You must be feeling mellow today bvb, thought I'd get a kick in the rear for that one.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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I just recognized the manzanita behind these hoodlums...can anyone else?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Hey ya'll, let's get together in March again so I'll have a reason to get off my butt and out of this cold place. It's really starting to get old and after only two months I've put on about 10+ pounds already.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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I've been giving this much thought, Darrel. The obvious solution to our chronic, Rubidoux interloper poaching problem is to simply claim you as owr own, in much the same way that the LDS church performs proxy baptisms.
This event will be consumatted with a splash of ganster grafitti decalaring "Fly Flabob Regional Airport!" splashed across the face of Lemon Chiffon, followed by a mighty TR session on VP's Office. We might also sacrifice a large Carne Asada burrito at the base of Welcome to Roubidoux.
That should settle things once and for all, and when you keeping kyping our prized gems we can simply go "ya, long-time woodson homie sent that pile", simultaneously dissing you, lowering expectations of Woodson in general, and co-opting the few stray climbers -- such as you -- who were swapped at birth by unscrupulous Riverside locals as part of their master plan to artificially warp the Rouxbidoux gestalt and load the Woodson/Roubidoux dice.
This offer is also available to Kevin and Jonny, providing they pass a rigorous oral exam and donate a substanital sum to the 501(3)(c) American Legend travel and spiritual development fund.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Now we're getting somewhere.
Sort of.
Truth of the matter is I've been more of a Woodson local than a Rubidoux local for a few years now. However, with the number of times I make it there in a year calling myself a local is a big, big stretch. Bottom line, with the new problem potential and the aesthetics of Woodson, why bother going to Rubidoux when it doesn't have much of either. Well, unless of course one wants to do some problems that are actually hard, but that's a different story. Nonetheless, it's still fun to play the Rubidoux trump card when I want to take a trick.
Did you bump your head? I'm not getting anywhere near the VP's Office. Although I would like to watch KP on it.
March might be kind of warm this year, given how it's been going so far. Like as in hot kind of warm. Just in case you thought there might be some cold kind of warm.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Can't really say I recognize it, but I can tell you exactly where it is.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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That pic of, em, Scruff, me, Tar, and unknown betafiend at the base of Kali Night.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Tom Gibson, I'm pretty sure.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Yep, upon closer inspection, that is Gibson. what's that I'm drinking? oldschool Red Bull energy drink.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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You were pretty energized that day.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 11, 2012 - 10:28am PT
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Tar looks like he's waitin' on ya hand and foot Bob, makin's sure the senior stays well hydrated while he's away from his assisted livin' home.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Feb 11, 2012 - 10:50am PT
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solo time 1987..
not sure what this one was.. 1987..
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 11, 2012 - 11:06am PT
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Safe to say that you're having some perfect climbing temps out that way still? A bit of rain in the forecast?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 11, 2012 - 11:08am PT
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That's Karl's Error, next to Shawn's Knobs
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 11, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
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Bob, I just found this on the, "What's the hottest you ever looked?" thread...never seen this classic!:
The mustache takes the cake.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 11, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
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Hang on a minit, I did a variation on painted that follows the yellow line sometime BITD. There were witnesses but not sure whom. Anybody?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 11, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
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Anybody up for a mob session on woodson this spring? Im stopping short of calling one. I did that last year and was unanimously ignored.
Still, its always a good time, so whats it gonna take to get your lame, elderly butts out there? Apparently the lack of incentives like raffles, magic shows and photo sessions with your favorite woodson legends killed last years attempt before it got off the ground.
Silly me, I thot the climbing and camraderie would be a good enough draw.
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blr
climber
socal
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Feb 11, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
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gonamok, I just did that line (with a rope) a couple weeks ago for the first time. Best line on the boulder in my opinion, though I haven't done the Woodward Direct.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 12, 2012 - 12:35am PT
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Epi and I saw Ron do that variation he has marked in the photo. Footwork instensive. It may actually be a problem where being FAT is an asset!
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Feb 12, 2012 - 01:19am PT
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MIke Paul shots from way back coming up...... hold please.....
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Feb 12, 2012 - 02:03am PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 12, 2012 - 02:04am PT
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OK, I give. WTF is this!?
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Feb 12, 2012 - 02:06am PT
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No idea.... but it was almost night.... what are any of them? Train is one.... what are the others?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 12, 2012 - 02:11am PT
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Train, "Mystery Boulder", Painted Boulder Direct (discussed upthread), Driving South.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Feb 12, 2012 - 02:14am PT
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That mystery boulder is like 44inches off the road on the right hand side as you are walking down the mountain.... as I recall.... I mean it was 30 years ago or more.... and dark!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 12, 2012 - 02:16am PT
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I'm completely and totally f*#king stumped. Gotta be the angle and the lighting, plus the smoke and mirrors.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 12, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
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Thanks bob, i thot you were there. In fact I recall telling you "watch and learn" in my inimitable, magnanimous way. Im glad you took that to heart. There is much you can learn from Rokron, god-o-bob. We will make a face climber outta you yet.
Yah and chicks dig fat guys...DUH
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 12, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
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Not necessarily painted direct. The regular 10d problem exits up the dihedral too. Im stumped on the flake as well, boob.
Routes on the N side of painted as I know them are: Paint streak direct (way hard), regular route, (starting on the right, a couple moves up, then handrail left on thin edges to the base of the little dihedral and straight up)10d, and the arete thing that I posted (V3ish).
As far as a route straight up between the paint streak and the start of the regular route, Ive never heard of it. Theres a line of fantasy holds that may have started a suburban legend, but a problem? I need to see proof, because Ive tried that and there aint enough holds.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 12, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
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Ok, I'm pretty stumped too on the mystery photo, but how about this "shot in the dark" guess...Mike's doing the foot-hand match on the west face of Painted Boulder. The horizontal seam is to the left, yet at weird angle because the shot is steeper than it should be, and this would also support the, "44 inches off the road, right side of the road on the way down" recollection, somewhat.
If I was shooting up at the guy in the other photo, that horizontal seam would angle up to the left corner of the photo such as it is in Mikes photo. What do you think?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 13, 2012 - 12:38am PT
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Good call, Gary. The angle is so distorted its hard to tell, but the move, height and rock features all seem to support your idea. Plus theres already one nighttime pic of MP on the painted...Im throwing in with you.
Those are old pics indeed. Look how fresh the paint streak is.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 13, 2012 - 12:46am PT
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I know Ron, awesome about the paint streak. Yeah I was thinking the same also, in that there was one pic already of Mike on Painted Boulder. I'm shaking my head at the line you did in yellow. It was hard enough just following the more popular routes on that boulder!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 13, 2012 - 12:54am PT
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Here's some trivia I've never asked/knew:
"How/when did the paint streak come to be on the boulder?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 13, 2012 - 03:27am PT
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Good plan bboob, Henny needs to be a "local" so that we can claim whatever he climbs as our own and not the work of some mercinary interloper.
I am happy to second the nomination for "local" status for Henny, but before he receives the public acclaim, admiration and adoration that comes with the status of "woodson local" something needs to be done about his "welcome to rubidoux" route. A name change to something like "welcome to rubidoux, the place that wishes it were woodson", or "welcome to rubidoux, poor mans woodson" would be appropriate.
After that a simple 24 hour hazing, presentation of his dowry, a pledge of allegience to woodson and ceremonial reduction to dust of a 50 lb rock from rubidoux, using only his bare hands, along with the sacred rites specified by secretary general and vice-grand poobah of woodson Bobilus Vanbellium, and hes in.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 13, 2012 - 04:29am PT
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I'm having a hard time seeing these as the same problem, unless the photographer deliberately did a massive photo tilt prank. The West face Of the Painted Boulder is a 70 degree slab. The other photo of Mike appears to be an absolutely dead vertical, if not ever-so-slightly overhanging, problem.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 13, 2012 - 07:55pm PT
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Bob, if this IS Painted Boulder, I'm sure RW didn't purposely pose the picture but, to get that angle of Mike, RW could have had his left shoulder nearly up against the stone, shooting up. The boulder behind Painted Boulder seems to be partially missing, but you can see a crescent of it in the picture. Again, it's an educated guess.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 13, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
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The similarities are striking, but after studying the mystery boulder more carefully i am less convinced that we are looking at painted boulder. For that to be painted boulder the photographer, at minimum, would have to be laying on his back at the base of of the rock with his camera against the wall to make it look that steep. But the mystery boulder is more than vertical, and i dont know if its physically possible to skew the perspective of the low angle west side radically enough to make it appear overhanging from a ground up shot.
There is also a sort of ripple on the face under mike that stands out like nothing on painted would, but is it a piece of the adjacent rock? I am stumped-er than i wuz now.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
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Knuckleheads.
All the Fish has to do is mess with the angle a little and he has ya'll hoodwinked. Does anyone in their wildest pipedream really think the problem is even remotely that steep? Surely someone had the wherewithall to download the picture and blow it up (even if it is poor quality), and in so doing would notice that Mike's right hand isn't even jamming, its just leaning against the rock or palming a feature. Like, it's that steep and he's in that body position? Give me a break. If it was truely that steep and he went for that move he'd be an instant lawn dart. Or in this case a dirt dart, because the base is hard pack. I think the Fish's trickery has been correctly identified already.
Good grief. I have a bridge that's for sale...
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
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Henny... he is crimping like a demon.... I know you are not that familiar with the area or really thin pulling, but this is a standard technique at the upper grades.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
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By the way, while we're on the topic of the Painted Boulder - I watched Doug do this problem and I'm not really sure what it is. Anybody happen to know the problem's name? I think Mellonhead may have done it BITD.
(Sorry, I'm not up on all this high-tech imagery stuff, and how to draw pretty lines on a picture.)
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
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Gaaaack. He is crimping, isn't he? I better get my glasses checked. Hate it when that happens. Nonetheless, I hold on the knuckleheads bit.
Thanks.
Russ.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
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I pledge allegience to the boulders of Woodson and the choss they are which everyone can barely stand. One mountain, in San Diego, unlike Rubidoux, with grainfests and grovels for all.
Finally!!! I can call myself a Woodson local! wOOt!
OK, back to serious matters. Nice day yesterday.
Looking at my watch, I see that it's time for the next episode of "Name That Problem." They should all be pretty straightforward.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 14, 2012 - 11:53am PT
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Downclimb...Big Grunt
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 14, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
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Henny, I bet you really "tagged" Painted Boulder with spray paint like that didn't you?! Sorry, we don't tolerate behavior like that, especially from a wanna-be Woodsonite. The last time, the ACSD had to come out and take care of a similar disaster at the Baby Robbins group...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 14, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
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Sorry, it's not the Big Grunt downclimb.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 14, 2012 - 05:33pm PT
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The Big Grunt downclimb is even more substantial than that, isn't it?
Anyway, you've been there once,and I got the impression that once was
enough for you.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 14, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
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Cast of a Thousand Stones...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 14, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
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Go With The Flow...
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 14, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
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This should further clarify it.
So which name are you going with Gary?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 14, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
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And this is?
And this?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 14, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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Lemon Chiffon! YES!!
(I think...now that Henny is a local, we have to keep our guard up...)
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 14, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
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yes.
and the second picture?
(scuffy b, it wasn't so much the backside BG downclimb as much as it was downclimbing BG. Yeah, doing that once will suffice just fine for me.)
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 14, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
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And?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 14, 2012 - 11:19pm PT
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Cast of a thousand stones
Lemon chiffon
Slapstick
Painted boulder
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 14, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
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2nd one hard as nails?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 14, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
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Henny, this has got to be your latest woodson FA, right? It has all the hallmarks of a Hensel route.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 14, 2012 - 11:27pm PT
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 14, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
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I have so few Woodson FA's that it's pathetic.
The Cast of a Thousand Stones stack is kinda cool in it's own way.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
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strong work Ron, I needed that laugh
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 15, 2012 - 12:08am PT
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Oh Please. You're gonna have to do better than this.
Undercling/foot match hold on West Face of Painted Boulder.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 15, 2012 - 12:10am PT
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ive been to woodsen like twice and i can id that last one
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 15, 2012 - 12:23am PT
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Yeap - undercling/foot match hold on West Face of Painted Boulder
Next:
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matisse
climber
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Feb 15, 2012 - 01:12am PT
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TV screen
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 15, 2012 - 01:29am PT
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Yes, and which problem?
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matisse
climber
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Feb 15, 2012 - 02:17am PT
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Woodward arete, I think
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 15, 2012 - 07:08am PT
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Judging by the total absence of chalk, yeah, Jonny's Shameless "Toast The Locals" Poach Job. I mean, us regulars were so close on that thing! No! Really!!
Trivial move, I just kept cranking into it wrong..!
To be perfectly honest, with the exception of the Poway Mountain Boys, Ray Olsen, Watusi, and Epi, the bulk of Woodson's "signature" climbs were bagged by out-of towners, or guys who lived in San Diego or a year or two at most. I'd mention Amick and Allenby, but my God...instant lifetime demerits for having the temerity to take me to grainy chossfest last-gasp bottom-of-the-barrel rubble-heap buttknuckle bald mantle perversions that I could not do. Of course, they had plenty of beer and it was always cold, so there was peace in Missisipi.
Geller, Leavitt, Leichtfuss, et. al. picked a few plums for sure, but when you get right down to it and look at the roster of classics that got bagged right out from under our perpetually stoned noses by out-of-town interlopers, it's a pretty impressive collective coup. We got robbed, godammit.
Of course, with so much rock to go around we could afford to be generous. Woodson was for touring the vistors around. Deerhorn Valley was private stash!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 15, 2012 - 10:53am PT
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Woodward Arete is correct.
I don't know bvb, seems to me when I look at who did what that Piggot ranks up there pretty high in the quantity of FA list (as well as the quality of FA.) I don't' know that Donny has stacks of problems to his credit, but he has some gems. Those guys sorta kinda vaugely, in a roundabout way, qualify as locals, wouldn't you say? No?
OK, I've recovered enough that I can finally comment on Ron's last posts. I know everyone is all abuzz (dang, I been wanting to use that word myself) about how you brilliantly besmirched my proudest Woodson FA, but dang dude, you hurt my feelings. Plus, you know how hard it was to drill those bolts? I mean seriously. And Greg, laughing at his mis-guided efforts will only encourage him - nice job.
Gary, please reword that last post for me...
Next: (like I said, cheap camera. sorry)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 15, 2012 - 10:56am PT
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Not following ya, Gary. Are you joking, or serious?!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 15, 2012 - 11:22am PT
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okaay I'll bite and be specific on that last photo...
That upper chalked flare is my second foot placement for my right foot on I hear my train a comin.
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Jonnnyyyzzz
Trad climber
San Diego,CA
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Feb 15, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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I think Those are some of the first holds on Uncertainty Principle. Yes?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 15, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
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That would be correct. They are both Uncertainty holds.
Yes, Gary, Hear My Train is correct for that earlier picture.
Next:
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 15, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
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Oh Please. You're gonna have to do better than this.
Sorry Bob, I deleted my last comment to you for it was lacking any sort of punctuation whatsoever. Let me try again...
Regarding the above quote, I was trying to feel you as to how you intended it, whether it was blatantly obvious, to you, as to what the photo was, or whether you really needed more information. Being how intimately familiar you are with IHMT, I chose the former over the latter.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 15, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
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They do look similar don't they? They are one and the same.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 15, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
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Next:
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 15, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
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Henny, PLEASE. Find us a worthy challenge.
Lie Detector.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 15, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
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Here, I'll play. But this one outta be easy:
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 15, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
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Yeah, but some probems are just so classic that it doesn't matter if they are easy to id.
There's a well known thin crack near that picture of bvb's. Don't remember the name of that problem though so I guess I'm outta luck.
Next:
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Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
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Feb 16, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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Grand Central Station, Top Secret File
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 16, 2012 - 01:34am PT
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Mark K, which photo are you referring to? Henny's or mine? That problem I posted has no name, and is right down there at Grand Cenral Station near "The Widow, Bereft" (the well-known crack route Henny was referring to.) So Henny nailed it. The bastard.
Top Secret File was a Dan Leichtfuss route right off the road, down by TV Screen. An extreme smearing problem. Dan's "Top Secret File" is definately not the thing Henny posted; I need to give it a closer look. I;m guessing it's one of the newer microslab climbs that I've never seen, alhtough it does bear a vague resemblance to Starface -- but then, every goddamn slab on Woodson looks like Straface!
OK, for true Woodson locals this next one will be a snap. For occasional interlopers, trespassers, hangers-on, and wannnabes: fuggedaboudit. You don't stand a chance. Hell, I'll even give you a hint. It's somehere between the parking area and Jaws.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 16, 2012 - 03:10am PT
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biting my tongue (and wearing EBs) on what face problem? Hint: if you pass jaws youve gone too farJohnny Weinberg cruising around on a face i did ropeless only once and it scared the bejesus outta me ...look familiar?Allenby going solo on one of those choss pile FAs we racked up. Name that route.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 16, 2012 - 03:22am PT
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and bob, i need to mention that by mentioning that you werent going to mention us you mentioned us
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 16, 2012 - 04:02am PT
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I know, Ron. Another epic bvb fail!
Steath Bomber?:
I'll get those other two. One of 'em is over on the Big Nose, eh?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 16, 2012 - 10:24am PT
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Bob, that thin hands picture is turning the bulge on Baby Robbins.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 16, 2012 - 10:29am PT
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Okay, I think I know Henny's slabalicious picture for I see a faint clue at the top of the photo:
"Airstream?"
Edit: I think you're right about TSF, Bob, for there's the golf course in the background and that would make Airstream too low on the mountain.
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ATS
Social climber
escondido, ca
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Feb 16, 2012 - 10:30am PT
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People always forget about one of the best moderates there, in the "Y Crack, 5.10"
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 16, 2012 - 10:39am PT
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I've been out to the "Y" Crack ATS...many moons ago. I self belayed myself on both variations of the "Y" and practiced some self rescue techniques out there back in the 80's. It was a bushwhack then and can't imagine what it is now! Also, as you descend south from "Y" crack, you happen upon that obvious 5.9 OW that you can see from the road as you pass the yellow house at the bottom. Fond memories.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 16, 2012 - 11:00am PT
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Ron, is Rick Allenby on what you're now calling, "Baby Pit Bull" on Tower #1?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 16, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
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bvb busted. Mark got it.
Top Secret File it is. I had to crop the photo to get enough of the background out of it to at least make it a little interesting. I fully expected either Doug or Mark to identify the problem right off.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 16, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
|
That picture of Johnny... Is that one of those problems on the way down to Stealth Bomber? I eliminated SB because (no disrespect, seriously) Ron said he had soloed it once (correct me if I'm wrong). I don't know of any SB solos. Just soloing Rick's Crack or whatever that stupid thing is to set up the anchor for SB was exciting the first time. The backgound implies that area it seems to me.
I almost said one of the Vision/Night Vision pair. But then again, Ron's comment about soloing eliminated those. Both of those problems are way too big with way to hard of moves to be soloing unless one is, shall we say, slightly dialed on super thin crimping/smearing. Even then, it's pretty likely we'd have to start using the past tense if someone went for the solo of either one... they were slightly dialed... Plus, the backgound is a little skewed for those I think.
So, after a bunch of rambling on, I come back to suspecting that it's one of the larger things on the way to SB?
Then again, maybe not. Obviously I don't have a clue.
Next:
Next:
I don't expect the context to be enough in the first picture for many decent guesses but we'll see. The picture doesn't do justice to how small and sharp the holds are. The second picture could obviously be more in focus, but I still expect people to know what it is.
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matisse
climber
|
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Feb 16, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
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I think the second one is the lite and fluffy but always satisfying Lemon Chiffon
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henny
Social climber
The Past
|
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Feb 16, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
|
Nope. Steeper than that.
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Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
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Feb 16, 2012 - 01:28pm PT
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Henny, I'm gonna go with Welcome to Rubidoux and Aids Victim. Ron, you've got me stumped. I was thinking one of those with Rick and Johnny had to be 49th Street but the orientation just doesn't seem right. I'm kind disappointed with myself for not bing able to identify the roadside problem you're on.
BVB, I thought the problem you posted was called Grand Central Station. But upon further inspection, we always called that slanting seam to the right GCC. Not sure if this is right, however.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 16, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
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Dannnnng Mark! I expected the second, but not the first. That big of a give-away, eh? It's a fairly nasty pull to just step off the ground so one can get to the party later.
Next:
And Next:
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
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Feb 16, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
|
Im on one of the two face problems known as "the 5.11 faces" directly across the road from the bobby brown arete.
I have to give the 2nd one to henny, John is on one of the "5.10 faces", which is indeed on the way to stealth bomber
Rick is climbing on the "good for the soul" wall, downhill from the missing link. Several quality 5.10 lines on a 35 ft tall slab
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matisse
climber
|
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Feb 16, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
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beware of ticks if you are headed over to the missing link via the hanging gardens..just ask Mark K. (ewwwwwww)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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Feb 16, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
|
Bob, that thin hands picture is turning the bulge on Baby Robbins.
Nope.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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Feb 16, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
|
The recently established face problem to the right of Jaws?
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Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
|
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Feb 16, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
|
Going with BVB on the second photo, Asylum. The first is Korean Cowboy.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
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Feb 16, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
|
...the first is Korean Cowboy
Look's right
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henny
Social climber
The Past
|
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Feb 17, 2012 - 03:28am PT
|
Yeap. Correct on both accounts. Asylum and Korean Cowboy.
I should go for the lotto after that lucky guess on the picture of Johnny. Hey, what's my prize? And don't tell me it's a guided tour of all the Woodson mantles.
More pictures please, I know you people have 'em.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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Feb 17, 2012 - 03:37am PT
|
Here you go Henny, more pictures:
OH! You meant Woodson photos?! OK, I'll find one...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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Feb 17, 2012 - 04:48am PT
|
C'mon folks, put on those thinking caps...even LEB could get this one.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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Feb 17, 2012 - 05:08am PT
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Locals Only. All locational clues removed.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
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Feb 17, 2012 - 08:36am PT
|
1. Geeze Bob, now that "thin hands" photo is starting to bug me...how about the easy cracks on the Practice Boulder on the right?
2. Salad is on Slant Crack.
Edit: Okay, forgive me, those two pictures are BOTH of Salad (Jeff) on Slant Crack!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
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Feb 17, 2012 - 09:04am PT
|
How about this one:
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
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Feb 17, 2012 - 09:07am PT
|
"If you've done it, you'll know it."
The slab on the Warm Up boulder on the right, heading up the road.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
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Feb 17, 2012 - 09:12am PT
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and this...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
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Feb 17, 2012 - 10:26am PT
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henny
Social climber
The Past
|
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Feb 17, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
|
bvb, so now we're resorting to trickery by editing out the background?
Gary, I think the last one is Go With the Flow.
bvb, the "even LEB" one is Robbins (backside of the Lie Detector)?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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|
Feb 17, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
|
Last two photos: Sickle Crack and Go With The Flow.
Yep, right on about Jeff on Slant Crack, back behind the TV Screen. (Wrong again, Henny!)
The face problem with the background removed? Not the warm-up boulders. Not even close!
Oh, and Gary, I think you were right the first time. I think the "Thin Hands" crack might be Baby Robbins. I have to go double-check the Photo Folder and confirm.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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|
Feb 17, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
|
The Dragon?
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dmr
Social climber
Carlsbad, CA
|
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Feb 17, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
|
What and where is this one?
http://vimeo.com/36944851
video and capture credit 1171_photos
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
|
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Feb 17, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
|
dmr - Are those your bouldering vids on Vimeo? If so, nice job!
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dmr
Social climber
Carlsbad, CA
|
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|
Feb 17, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
|
Nice Alcoa video on that link, too. Not me though. I just found them and didn't recognize the thin crack.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
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Feb 17, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
|
Gary, I think the last one is Go With the Flow.
Yep, with Karl Mueller's hands
----------------------------
Last two photos: Sickle Crack and Go With The Flow.
Bob, Henny beat you out with GWTF but the other:
Nice!
----------------------------
The Dragon?
Bingo...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
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Feb 17, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
|
Man, that guy looks strong on Alcoa!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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|
Feb 17, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
|
Pretty sure that crack in the Video is way down the hill, faces west, close to Hwy 67 than it is the Woodson road. Easiest approach is off the Rexrode's trail.
Speaking of Rexrodes...got a really stumper of a photo from down there. Cilley will recognize it.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
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Feb 17, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
|
Darn it Bob, the bulge on the right side of the photo (your left), with the seam in it, looks just like the left side of the Warm Up boulder slab! Is it the face to the left of Elsa's Crack?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
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Feb 17, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
|
Don't know the name but it's on the west side of Woodson. This video has been out for a while now on youtube:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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|
Feb 19, 2012 - 03:35am PT
|
Somebody needs to go down there and check this thing out. It's taken on quite the Mysto air after all these years.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
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|
Feb 19, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
|
Bob,
Ug.
Ron
|
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
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Feb 19, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
|
Another choss pile amick FA. name that tune
|
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
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|
Feb 19, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
|
Does anybody know anything about the park boundary/park rules sign next to the road by the television screen? Since when is Woodson a park?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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|
Feb 20, 2012 - 12:02am PT
|
Rules? At Woodson?! wtf.
|
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
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Feb 20, 2012 - 03:05am PT
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All i see in the Poway trails guide is the trail from lake poway to the summit on the west side, nothing about the paved road up the east side where the sign is posted. I dont think any of the east side or the road is within Poway city limits
The last I heard, woodson was owned by the state, and designated as public open space. The CDF camp at the base indicates that it is state controlled land. The county owns the access easment and the road, but rights to the road as well as the land under the installments on the summit are leased by private companies long term. The city of Ramona also has some jurisdiction. This was spelled out during the access crisis back in the 80s.
Apparently there has been a change, and it would be nice to know what that is.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 20, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
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So...
Time for another list.
Hardest five(5)problems/tr's on The hill?
edit: just hardest five period. but personal ex could be used as a qualifier!
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snake pliskin
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
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Hardest five you've personally sent?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 20, 2012 - 06:32pm PT
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Now just waitaminnut goddamit I haven't finished my "10 Best" list yet.
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ATS
Social climber
escondido, ca
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Feb 20, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 20, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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does that sign say anything about no doobies allowed?
edit: cuz i sure don't wanna be breakin any new laws next time i go up thar.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 20, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
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wtf. does this park have a name? do we know what agency administers it? who is responsible for cultural and natural resource management? are there partols of any kind, ever? is it a county park, a city park, a state park? there's NOTHIN' on that sign that gives a clue. i coulda piched a sign like that and posted it as a joke.
i say we get vandalize it, pronto. how DARE they!
think i'll do some internet snoopin'.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Feb 20, 2012 - 10:15pm PT
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Check with the "ballcuppers" maybe they know something... ? ?
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 20, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
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the bottom box says 'park boundary'..so does that mean you can pitch a tent, let your dog go unleashed, smoke a doob, etc. just before the sign..what a dumb fookin' sign/rules.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 20, 2012 - 10:21pm PT
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This thing is right in your wheelhouse bob, I think you know a little something about parks, hope you can dig something up. The only clues on the sign regarding jurisdiction are the municipal codes cited with each regulation. State? County? City? Boy Scouts? It doesnt say. Pretty inept to post rules with no number to call for information or to report violations, unlikely in fact.
So are we dealing with a hoax? Hmmmm. Steal a sign, poke it in the dirt at woodson and watch the locals go apesh#t......it would certainly be a good one. The location is very strange too, a park boundary sign with no gate or fence in sight. Very fishy.
I have to believe that an EIR, solicitation of public input and a public posting, at minimum, would precede the creation of any kind of park, especially since it could be argued that the public holds eminent domain after decades of unfettered access.
The most prudent course of action is to tear the sign up, toss it into the pond and see what kind of response it generates (note, i am NOT advocating illegal, immoral or unsanitary activities).
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 20, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
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Hmm hardest 5....
Theres 1)that heinous face climb to a highball mantle thing in those boulders kinda by jaws, 2)this spooky ass lieback flake me and rick found down in the bushes by a big orange rock, 3)This ridiculously hard thing Greg showed me over by pruneface way back when, 4)a pinch n yank dyno thing on the south slope that I cranked once when I was sportin a sick hone....I cant think of a 5th one
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 20, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
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"Next to the road by the television screen"
that's a good distance up the road from the practice boulder, etc.!
why wait until there...part way up the lower part of the road.
very fishy looking...besides being fookin' stoopid.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 20, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
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addendum: hardest 5 with names...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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Speaking of mysterious signs...about two years ago, Santee sported a "27 acres For Sale" sign up by the EB boulder one day. I found it disassembled another day and dragged the 4x4 posts down to the trash cans in the park below. Legit or not I never found out, but it never reemerged after that.
When I helped organize the Woodson Shindig, the Black Mountain open space rangers in Rancho Penasquitos was it (?) gave me the key to the gate at the bottom of the hill. Maybe they would have some information on that sign for he told me then that they monitored that area.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 20, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
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Oh...names
Speaking of which, nobodys about to bite on another obscure route I threw out there, so Ill spill the beans.
The pic is of The Terminator, V3/4 - a super clean thing I found low on the south slope sometime in the 80's. Ask Horvath, he put up a new face problem on that boulder a couple months ago.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
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Heck, I don't rate to list my hardest five but humility is good:
1. Driving South
2. I Would Die For You
3. I Hear My Train A Comin'
4. Go With The Flow
5. Mother Superior
Edit: 5.10a On The Outside is considered to be harder than GWTF but the latter was harder for me.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
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Is that Laverne Ron?
Edit: I see I'm a hair late on my response.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 20, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
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i thought i recalled you saying you had done UP. that would be harder than most of the above from my recollections...
edit: i recall 'i would die for you' having a dif move off the ground for sure.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
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I have done U.P. but the others stood out and seemed to take the most effort for me. Heck, maybe I'm wrong but that's what I came up with. There's so much more that I HAVEN'T done than what I've accomplished.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
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To tell you the truth on IWDFY...I was there by myself in the early eighties when I got really lucky to hit the right holds on that thing and topped out. Nobody was there to witness it and I've never repeated it since, but I know what happened that day. I had no idea what it was nor what it was rated at the time.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
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U.P harder than M.S.? than D.S.? than I.H.M.T.? than I.W.D.F.Y.?
Am I missing something?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 20, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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Uncertainty is swank for sure, but in the big picture of Woodson stuff it's a hike. I Would Die For You was considered way damn hard in the mid-80's. Don't know where it is in the pecking order these days.
I can come up with a "Hardest 5" list circa 1989, but don't what all's been done since then. Of course, the hardest 5 for me. Everybody's got their own strengths and weaknesses up there. 5 climbs that I know took me 10 - 20 tries, often over a few days, back when I had my Woodson hone on, in no particular order:
1. Head First In The Bushes
2. Lie Detector
3. VP's Office
4. Starving In Stereo
5. Some f*#ked-up Chossy Piece-Of-Sh#t mantle that Ron and Rick liked to warm up on. I only did it for the beer.
As with all things Woodson, once you've done 'em once you get 'em wired and all of a sudden they're easy. But I know those five had to get projected to the point I was drawing move topo's for 'em.
Have not found a single thing on the internet about any "Park" designations for Woodson -- definately nothing that involves designation of a "Park Boundary" -- but I'm almost positive that the County owns the land. A little project for tommorrow. Usually you can get yourself pointed in the right direction with a phone call or two.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 21, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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i only top roped uncertainly principle a couple of times around the time of, or leading up to the 86 contest. we did most those others about every time we went up there. and my train, calif night & drivin south since early on. mother superior was obviously much more strenuous but got easier over time it seems. i haven't done any of them since the early nineties so i could be way off. the last things i worked on and got were starving in stereo, airstream, and silk banana. the last few years after that i would mainly go up alone and do only things that i felt safe soloing such as robbins, airplane crack, monkey crack, etc. plus many of the short/low harder boulder problems like if i could die for you and silk banana. allot of the harder stuff we worked on for ages it seemed like before we got it wired. and it is hard to compare one to another since allot of the others i get confused with which was what. i haven't seen my last guide to the area in twenty years. that is one of the reasons i asked what were the hardest five problems considered to be now. not that i have done any of them, just curious. i first started bouldering there in '71.
edit: never got around to dropping a rope down from the top of robbins to have a go at lie detector. i did watch r.k. do it at the '86 contest. wish i would have tried it. the upper hands/finger crack looked fun anyway. i did do 5.10 on the outside a few times. found it rather humorous that it had c.g. stymied during the '86 contest.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 12:27am PT
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As you now know Bob, these kids are in another league of their own these days. There's some stuff done up there on the mountain that, from a rating standpoint are a full grade and harder than anything that was rated b.i.t.d. up there. Chris Lindner, and other big names have apparently done some things that haven't really been talked about, even in the 5.14 arena, per Dan Bealle. I've mentioned before that Chris did a sit-start to IHMT, and I'm still wondering what a consenses would be for that! I was flabbergassed when he on sighted it the day before the shindig! You know that overhanging rail problem by Shawn's Knobs with no name? Instead of throwing out to the lip out right, Chris tilted his head backward and threw, all points off and hit the apex, the furthest point behind him, with one hand, then finished there as an alternate ending! Heck, the kid did a sit start to Retropulsion!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 12:35am PT
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Do you have any pictures from the '86 contest splitter? And, btw, who are you?
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ATS
Social climber
escondido, ca
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Feb 21, 2012 - 12:37am PT
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 21, 2012 - 12:40am PT
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i have very few pics of climbing period. i don't think i brought a camera to the '86 event. but i may have since i do recall owning one about then. all of my stuff is in storage, but i will have to search it soon.
edit: killer, u.p.^^^.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 12:41am PT
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5.10a On The Outside was my last tick on my scorecard in the '86 contest!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 12:43am PT
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Beautiful picture Adam.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
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The Woodson guru bvb said: As with all things Woodson, once you've done 'em once you get 'em wired and all of a sudden they're easy. But I know those five had to get projected to the point I was drawing move topo's for 'em.
Personal experience has shown me there is truth to that, but only up to a point. I've been back to some projects that seemed fairly straight forward when I finally did them, only to find they were much, much harder than I remembered. And I didn't wait an excessive amount of time to go back to them. Maybe it's just my advanced age or something, don't know. One of the things that seems most problematic is keeping the desire high enough after I've done something that is close to my personal limit. When working those projects one gets things really down (as in wired), plus, you really want to do it. Want doesn't seem to be something I can just turn on at will anymore. Bummer.
The top 5 or 10 in difficulty? Don't know, way too many variables. I suspect some of the Beall and Lindner stuff would be right up there though. But I can't say for sure because I haven't done them. Seems to me the only way to get a somewhat accurate ordering would be to do all the candidate problems. Even then it would still have bias because of personal abilities, strengths, and preferences.
So, I have a brilliant plan. Since we can't seem to get away from wanting to quantify and rank, we need to compile a list of the top 50 or so candiate problems, have someone do them all, and then report back to us. I also suspect there are problems that are sleepers, that are much harder than they're rated for whatever the reason(s), so we can't just go on given ratings. Since we don't know for sure which problems those are, maybe we should have our person do the top 100 candidates instead. To eliminate as many variables as we can, we'll have that person do all the problems in the same week-end (similar weather conditions, similar mental/physical attitude.) I nominate bvb. Whad'ya think, any seconds on that nomination? Sounds like a plan to me.
Nice picture of Uncertainty.
bvb, what was the problem with the background cropped out of it? (Sorry if you already posted the name and I missed it)
Here's an absolute dead give-away:
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ATS
Social climber
escondido, ca
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
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Starving in Stereo?
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
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Starving in Stereo^^^!
Definately Starving in Stereo!!
edit: spent two winters workin' that suckah.
i second the motion..therefore bvb is elected.
i cud prollie still solo robbins..but wud most likley sh#t me shorts, pitch and die downclimbin it..good way to die tho.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
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Oh yeah. As I said, a dead give-away. Pretty attractive/classic Woodson crack for sure.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
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Yep, that's Starving all right.
Henny, I'll post an uncropped photo of that problem. Someone will get it in about 90 nanoseconds.
Oh HELL YEAH, I'll go do those top 100 candidate problems! OK if I finish my coffee first? Temps are purrrrrfect today. Sunny, cool, low humidity.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
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hey hennie..do you recall a dood by the name of jonathan spurgeon? from woodson.suicide.joshtree bitd(88->)?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 21, 2012 - 02:36pm PT
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Take your time bvb, if you don't wait toooooo long you probably even have time for a second cup. Just don't over amp.
90 nanoseconds? That picture annoys me, looks like something I should know but can't place. Don't throw a name out yet, lets see who knows...
Splitter, the name does sound familiar but I can't seem to put a face to it.
I was going to go with this picture initially, but then decided the more complete picture was more aesthetic. Is it just me, or do the crux moves have bite to them?
ok, a couple more:
One easy -
One not so easy (hints: big, and before the preceeding one on the way up) -
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 21, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
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That first photo, California Night, is one of my faves. You'll never stump us on a crack Henny but all those 5.11c microedging problems look the same...
That photo I posted should bother you! It's a really fun edging problem, just high enough to be interesting, on what is literally some of the best rock up on Woodson. You'd hike it, like it, and go "wow, that's a good one..."
Is the second photo Retropulsion, or maybe Eppulator?
EDIT: Waitaminnit. That first photo is looking less and less lke Kali Knight now...oh, repost of Starving. Duh. Yup, Starving can be a grinder. I always taped up for it.
2nd EDIT: Last photo, the face: Laker Girls, downhill from GWTF?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 21, 2012 - 03:00pm PT
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Yeah, repost of Starving.
Retropulsion is correct.
The other isn't really micro-edging, nor is it as hard as 11c. Don't pitch at the top though.
Edit: Nope, not Laker Girls. Use the hint - before Retropulsion on the way up.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 21, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
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Huh. Control Tower?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 21, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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Nope. A little downhill of the road, the problem has been around for a long time, it's passed right under while going somewhere else, and you've likely done it. Bolt on top, but since you pretty much need to do it to set it up (huh?), the bolt is more for getting off I think. Or send the bold one and then everybody mooches the free TR. I know... pretty hard to guess from that picture. I'll toss out the give-away hint next if those clues aren't enough.
I need help (obvious.) Is that picture of yours low or high on the mountain? Aaargh.
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Feb 21, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
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Most of road side of Woodson is city of San Diego open space,
and managed by the Black Mountain open space.
However the city has not ever actively done much, and is very difficult to even contact. The west side and lower north side is city of Poway at some point. Poway has taken the lead on trails in the area.
There was talk 10-15 years ago about transferring it all to the city of Poway.
SDMC means city of San Diego Municipal code.
It is not a new park so it is a good question whether something has changed.
TV screen is just past the new water tank, so maybe there is some boundary with a water district?
The state only owns a parcel at the base for the fire station.
You can see the boundary of the city of Poway in yellow here -
http://maps.geocortex.net/imf-5.2.2/imf.jsp?site=zoning
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 21, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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Oh, you talking about Greg's Face. Duh. That was actually gonna be my first guess before Control Tower, but I wavered.
The thing I posted is not far off the lefthand side of the road as you're walking uphill, above Robbin's, but below Mother Superior...
It's a great problem but never had a name, and I've only rarely done it with chalk on it. It's in a sweet but often overlooked little cluster of moderates. The idea of falling off the last move is unsettling due to the height and the landing, but it's by no means a "highball."
If you Chicken out on the last move, you can escape by grbbing the arete on the left.
Get it? "Chicken Out?" Heh. Might make a good name for that problem!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 21, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
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I was hiking up the day the sign went in. The vehicle passed me on the road, and the guy was pounding the post in when I walked by. I didn't question him though, not sure what purpose that would have served. But now all the inquiring minds want to know so maybe I should have. The sign is just past the drive to the big water tank, so maybe the boundary does have something to do with a water district. Don't know.
But hey, fishing IS still permitted with a license. So, you can still toss those ratings out there and reel 'em in, hook, line, and sinker. Assuming of course, that you actually do have the required license you'll even be legal.
Yeap. Greg's Face. How did the problem get that name? Is it related in any way to the famous home boy, or was his name taken in vain?
Chicken Out? Maybe I'm dense or something, but no, I don't get it.
So I'm supposed to name a problem that doesn't have a name? Right, got that part.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 21, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
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Well, OK, it sorta has a name, it's that face problem next to that really cool tower ith the bolt...
I honestly do not know the origin of the name Greg's Face. I think maybe for some reason I always assumed Greg Cameron.
Here's and even more revealing photo of that problem:
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 21, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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when is this Woodshun gather round and power down session?
For realz gotta get on the program, and get strong just so I can go down there and squish pebbles. ya dig?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 21, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
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Better do it before it gets too hot.
Ron's track record says he's by far the best bet for organizing a great turnout. Just like last year.
We need to do it whatever weekend bvb goes for the top 100 candidates. And exactly when, pray tell, will that be Bob? We need to know in advance so we can plan accordingly. I can promise you that we'll all be abuzz over it.
Is the background arete worth while?
It doesn't get any easier than this:
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
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That last is Hard As Nails, Henny.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
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...and that face next to the tower is up by Baby Robbins, no?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 06:28pm PT
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If you guys decide on a get together soon, I'm going to have to pull off a miracle to get back into any worthwhile shape for I'm toast! But, I'd fly back in a heart beat just to be there with you all.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 21, 2012 - 06:33pm PT
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Klettergarten?
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 21, 2012 - 06:43pm PT
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"That is Hard as Nails"
Woe, good eye Truthdweller!!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 21, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
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Klettergarten?
dingdingdingdingdingdingding! and scuffy, no less!
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 21, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
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Heh.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 21, 2012 - 07:05pm PT
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And this?
(C'mon Ron, just for you...)
Or this:
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
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Wohooooo....Warm up boulder, 5.10d!!!!!!!!!
Edit: Rain must have cleaned that up lately!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 07:09pm PT
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So THAT's the Klettergarten!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 21, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
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I recognize that crack in your last photo darrel. but i cannot name it, don't really remember it, and certainly cannot place it on the mountain.
And you cannot possibly imagine ow much that irritates me.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 21, 2012 - 07:29pm PT
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and since I finally got that picture to show up, five posts back?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 21, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
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bvb, Gary got it. 8.2 feet off the road, before you even get to the gate.
That's some textured orange rock, scuffy. So where is there orange rock like that? Nothing that small on Uncertainty and doesn't look right anyway, and Seminar would be sharp, awful black knobby single digit pimple thingies even if it was the correct color. I'm thinking, I'm thinking... It's probably some obscure crimp along side something fat, so I won't have a snowballs chance in Hades of recognizing it.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
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What's that photo with the black dot Darrell? The only "Black Dot/Spot" problem I know of is at Santee but it doesn't look like that.
And your photo Scuffy??????
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 07:51pm PT
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Okay, I have a guess Scuffy...
The east face of Painted Boulder or the boulder south of it has some really textured rock like that.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
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After burning a few brain cells, I have a guess on your "fairly new" one too Henny:
HDTV
Edit: The texture doesn't look like HDTV though.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 21, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
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The crimp is just out of frame in the picture looking down at bvb on
the Klettergarten face. If he turned his head to the right, he'd be
looking at it. Klettergarten Knob?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 21, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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Not HDTV. I can promise you it's at Woodson, and as the hint said it's a fairly recent addition to the mountain. Meaning, a lot of people probably haven't experienced it yet. Although there are a few who might recognize it, so I'll wait a little longer. (Eliot, Doug, Ron, maybe Mark, can't mention the other name.)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 21, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
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Yeah Scuffy, I knew your photo was of that same klettergarten problem. That diamond hard, ultra-textured, and still really bald, bright orange rock only pops up a couple of places on the mountain. Super good. I bet Darrel could find something that's never been climbed over there. There are some real futuristic shields.
Actually it sort of did have a name. We always referred to it as the "klettergarten face." Sort of generic, but hey, we had no idea who did it first and had to refer to it as something.
Oh right, warm-up boulders crack. No wonder I couldn't place it.
EDIT: Scuffy, OFF tok that photo? I think that's my hand.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 21, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
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Looks good. Like something to put on the list to go check out.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 21, 2012 - 09:29pm PT
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"Greg's Face..."
i thought it was called "Grug's Face".?.
edit: i'm a little behind on reading all the posts!
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 21, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
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yep, everybody listens to me, thats for sure, yoo betcha
Hennys endorsement boosts my status, however from "loud fat man of woodson" to "loud fat man of woodson who has famous friends"
Perhaps this elevated social standing will help my organizational efforts?
Lets give it a try.
Shall we shoot for the last weekend in march?
This is a peer thing people. Post a reply so your ovine colleagues will know its ok for them to reply too. For all of you (which is everyone except maybe my mom, and thats iffy) who are saying "if amicks involved i aint going near it" Remember, its hensels deal and im just the mouthpiece.
He may not even let me attend.
If yer up for the mob scene again, speak up so others know its happenin
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 21, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
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Henny, you are giving me credit for knowing stuff, and that just aint so.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 22, 2012 - 12:17am PT
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I really wish this had come out in focus. Somehow it didn't. I think Ron knows this one anyway, taken at the top of the black spot problem.
The picture was of the black knob that signifies the end of the Vision crux.
Hensel's deal??? Last weekend in March, eh?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 22, 2012 - 12:35am PT
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Oh man, one of my home made hangers on a 1/4" buttonhead bolt...gulp. I spent three straight days hanging from that thing and swinging around when I cleaned the carpet of potato chips off the vision... no backup anchor. I would now regard it as an A4 placement. Funny how things change.
DH - it aint gonna fly as amicks deal, we need name recognition from a respected woodson local (there, i said it). Perhaps your sidekick dimes would be willing to lend his star power to the cause as well?
I do better in a ticket-tearer, beer fetcher role.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 22, 2012 - 12:41am PT
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aid at Woodson? Somebody point my aiders in the right direction!
Last weekend in March sounds good.
If it's blasting rain there (just anticipating jacked up weather season) we head to nearest northern bouldering area that is dry. Rubberdux, Josh, Black Planets, Bishop, in that order?.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 22, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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It ain't gonna fly unless bvb shows. If he commits there shouldn't be any problem attracting the hordes, all who will be following him around with baited breath. We might even need one of those golf type dudes that holds up the "Quiet Please" sign when he steps off the ground. Although he's probably going to have to just suck it up and deal with being blinded by all the flashes popping off at the same time when he goes for the cruxes. Such is life when you're a legend.
If bvb commits, I'll see what I can do. I'll even ping the Mellonhead, who knows? Powell might be interested, I'll see. However, I'm not sure his walker can deal with terrain as steep as that road. Now if we could just figure out how to get Piggot to show. But first, is this for real Ron, or are you just messing with us? And of course, this all revolves around bvb being there. We pass the buck around faster than a hot potato.
Ron, funny thing. I decided your bolt makes the TR run slightly better at the top of Night Vision so I've used it as the main anchor the last couple of times I've been over there. Plus, it adds that extra dimension when you're soloing.
Yes, I backed it up. You kidding?
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 22, 2012 - 11:53am PT
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bvb, that is my hand in the photo by Off.
It's not on the same rock as you.
My recollection from Off is that the face you are on is Klettergarten Face,
and the rock to the right has the problem Klettergarten Knob.
My hand is on one of the starting holds. Ten feet from you? Five minutes
later?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 22, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
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So, March 31, April 1 or March 30, 31, April 1?
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matisse
climber
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Feb 22, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
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hey scuff you coming to this?
I bin training, now that I can walk uphill again.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 22, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
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Who wants to Car Pool?
It didn't occur to me until you asked, Matisse.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 22, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
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Yeah, seriously, lets do it the weekend of saturday, 3/31 & sunday 4/1. That will give me time to finance BVB's appearance fee and get theft and collision insurance on his suspenders.
Gary, I cant see a 3 day thing happening because so many people have to work on friday, and the only organizing I plan on doing is badgering the locals to show up, and to spread the word via this site. Nothing will rival your wildly successful shindig until you return to organize another one.
Lets make it official then:
The first annual D. Hensel Mt Woodson invitational climbers conference featuring BVB will convene on saturday, March 31st.
An appearance by Bob Van Belle himself is tentatively scheduled for that day, and negotiatons with BVB Inc. are underway to include a possible photo and autograph session as well.
Events include walking, climbing, bouldering, chalking, loitering, falling and drinking whatever beer gets brought up by participants.
Local resources are being employed to locate a suitable restaurant, bar or parking lot for the saturday evening post climb reverie and coronation of BVB as homecoming queen.
Sunday will feature the same activities, with the addition of one or more of the following: soreness, hangover, pulls, tweaks, reduced motor functions, mental fog and other assorted age related physical impairments.
Come on down! Lets all get together and have fun before we hit the end of our life expectancy and start dropping like flies.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 22, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
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The List of attendees:
Darrel hensel
Ron Amick
Bob Van Belle
Kevin Powell
Rick Allenby
John Weinberg
Peter Campos
Greg Epperson
Gary McCay
Matisse & porter
Scuffy B
Doug Tomczik
Greg Horvath
Elliot Carlson
Andrew Press
James Barnett
Splitter
Donny Bedford
LMo
jaj478
Ron Gomez
Andy Redding
Lets get this thing snowballing, spread the word...this list needs to go viral. Updates to follow
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matisse
climber
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Feb 22, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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moi. plus the porter.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Feb 22, 2012 - 08:32pm PT
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Really would love to meet up with everyone, but I (along with Eliot, Greg, Mark, and Lauren) will be in Indian Creek from March 24 to April 2.
Any chance of pushing it forward a couple weeks?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 22, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
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count me in until further notice
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 22, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
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You guys need to be there Doug. Glad you checked in early.
We need the local young guns to be there. After all, we are passing the baton to them.
April 14 & 15 ok with everybody? It cannot be any later without risking full on summer conditions.
consensus please
gary i hope you havent bought that ticket yet
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 22, 2012 - 09:22pm PT
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April 14/15 isn't good for me. Any chance of going forward as Doug asked, instead of back? Is March 17/18 a possibility, or is that too soon for everybody? If it's too soon, then how about April 7/8?
Agreed that the current crew needs to be there, so we should work around their availability. If April 14/15 ends up fitting the most people then go for that date and I'll try to make the 15th. Maybe I'd even be able to get my name out of the gathering title if that happened.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 22, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
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oh geez henson, ill take your name off as event sponsor, lol...i couldnt resist. If i try to make another date change now i think i will end up in a shallow grave on the edge of town. WE of 3/24 and 4/7 im working 12 hour shifts on both sat and sun, so for me its pretty much 4/14 or nothing.
If we push it too far forward we will lose people who need to make plans or arrangements to get down here, and if we push it back past mid april we are most likely looking at high summer weather.
Things get complicated when youre old, lol
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 22, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
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sounds pretty cool..is that sign still in attendance??it cud cast a pall over the event..i presume we shall abide by all park rules at this monumental gathering of at least one legend.
edit: & as at least one legend has mentioned 'no sign=no park=no rules' i hereby second the motion...but perhaps i'm getting ahead of things.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 22, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
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Things do get complicated.
Go for April 14/15 then. I'll see what I can work out.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Feb 22, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
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April 14 - 15 works, Gordo's Fundraiser is the following weekend
Looks like a week down south, add James Barnett
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 22, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
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It ain't gonna fly unless bvb shows. If he commits there shouldn't be any problem attracting the hordes, all who will be following him around with baited breath. We might even need one of those golf type dudes that holds up the "Quiet Please" sign when he steps off the ground. Although he's probably going to have to just suck it up and deal with being blinded by all the flashes popping off at the same time when he goes for the cruxes. Such is life when you're a legend.
Why is it I sense I am being mocked here?
P.S. I ain't gonna unless Darrel is there. Don't like it? Talk to my agent. I'll have one of my non-profit's divvy up the $500K deposit between the Access Fund, Rick Santorum's campaign, and the Transgender Foundation.
Actually if Powell has to stand in for Henny that'll do.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 22, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
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Mocked? Never. Just expanding the "swole, American legend" theme a little.
So here's a hypothetical question for you. Would you want Powell to represent you, or stand in for you, for any reason whatsoever?
I thought not.
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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Feb 22, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
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I'll show up if Henny will try M.S. and V.P.O.
At least that way I'll get a good laugh out of the day.
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jaj478
Trad climber
Ramona, CA
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Feb 23, 2012 - 01:13am PT
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Local resident here. Restaurant suggestion - Third Street Grill. Having problems with their website right now, but they have a new menu and lowered prices. Check out their FB page. Sweet potato fries, Angus burgers, Philly Cheesesteak, vegetarian Black Bean Burger and more.
Healthy food store - Ramona Family Naturals on Main by 7th. Fresh sandwiches, salads, hummus, salsa, hot soup to go. Kombucha, energy bars, organic produce, natural sodas, protein bars, chips, trail mix, dried nuts & fruits. We may have our liquor license by then. Check out our FB page. Oh yeah, and the best Frozen Bananas in town. Dipped in peanut butter then dark chocolate. Also dipped in peanut butter and rolled in granola. Very addictive.
Welcome to the neighborhood.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 23, 2012 - 01:25am PT
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seriously considering being there one day at least.
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Dimes
Social climber
Thinking about Retirement
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Feb 23, 2012 - 02:57am PT
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So it looks like April 14 & 15 could work for me as long as the doorman from Cheetahs can give me a ride?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 24, 2012 - 05:27am PT
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Motivational bump...
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 24, 2012 - 08:32am PT
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That's not my face. I've got a Crack but not a Face (at Woodson).
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Feb 24, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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Cool, Ron.
I heard that Henny, on the 15th, is going to do a leavitation demonstration for aspiring wide aficionados. Can anyone verify this? Henny?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 24, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
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TMI Greg
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 25, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
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Heres what I have found out.
The East side of Mt Woodson (the side the road is on)is owned by the city of San Diego, and designated as the "Mt Woodson Open Space Area", which is included in The Black Mountain Open Space (City)Park. There is nothing about woodson on the BM open space park website, but the city of San Diego's site, parks and recreation section lists woodson within BMOSP.
There seems to be no budget, staff or general plan for the woodson open space area, and no information on woodson is offered, either online or in the city's available publications. I could not find a map delineating the actual boundaries of the city owned space, but it generally includes the upper half of the west side, upper half of the SW side, all of the South side and the west side down to the water tank.
The city of Poway owns the lower west and southwest sides, and the southern basin. The Ramona Municipal Water District owns the water tank and the land on the north side of the paved road below the tank. The Calfire camp is on RMWD land.
The city of ramona claims the north and NE side and all the land below. The access gate on Mt Woodson (private) drive is in unincorporated SD county, so the county controls access through that gate.
Ok, so when we climb on woodson, we are parking on a state highway (67) on SD county land, crossing state (calfire) property to get to Ramona Water District land (the paved road), and once we pass the water tank, we are in city of San Diego open space. No less than 6 official entities have jurisdiction over various areas on and around woodson.
The best thing we, as climbers can do is not draw attention or complaints.
Pack your trash out and be low key, especially where trail building, bolting or any rearrangement of the topography is concerned.
As for the sign, somebody at the BMOSP must have had a slow day.
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LMo
climber
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Feb 26, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
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Photo bump from this weekend. Another fun day on the hill.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 26, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
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That photo is a keeper guys...hang on to that one!
Edit: Name that climb: U.P. boulder
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 26, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
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LMo,
Yea, nice shot!
Are ya gonna be there on the 14/15 April?
edit: nice view off to the east from there, eh!!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 26, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
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I just realized I don't know what climb this was taken at.
Name that climb:
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LMo
climber
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Feb 26, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
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Splitter,
I will be up there, wouldn't miss it.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 26, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
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Gary, that print was made from a photo taken by Peter Campos sometime in the early 90's. The sillhouettes from left to right are, Peter Campos, myself and Rick Allenby. We are standing on the west wall of the vomitorium casting a perfect late afternoon shadow on the rock opposite us (just to the right of death vomit). I will post that pic as soon as i can find it.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Feb 27, 2012 - 07:37am PT
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 27, 2012 - 11:57am PT
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Thanks Rick! Actually Peter is standing right on top of death vomit, one of Rick's little jewels.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 27, 2012 - 01:40pm PT
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Doug, that was supposed to be a secret.
Fat is where it's at. I'm all over it. But I think I made that clear in my original top 5 problem list.
Show starts at 8:00 sharp.
Not.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
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No, no, the crack next to the guy wearing the tshirt...what crack is that?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 27, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
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ohhh. Is it the base of bat crack?
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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tidbits
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Feb 28, 2012 - 12:38am PT
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Nice pics!
SB gets a Spring cleaning!
edit: of course i know your not "cleaning" per say...perhaps pre-chalking one/some a dem slick undercling holds. it's been a long time, but one of my favorite probs, thanks for this interesting angle/shot. ahhh, it rekindles such poignant memories from my glutton for punishment days...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
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Awesome, Doug on the Warm Up boulder seam....hey, I know I'm playing the eliminate card, but whats that flake/sidepull doing chalked up next to the crack? Lol, out of bounds guys, FINGERS ONLY in the crack! I know, you didn't use it, just sayin'.
Pat Ament even wrote one of his infamous shorts and commented on the sandbag nature of that "10d" seam during a visit to Woodson, too funny. I wish I could locate and post it.
Ron, what is Bat Crack? That thing in the picture looks wide, and appears low angled, what the heck is that?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 28, 2012 - 09:52pm PT
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I was on the hill this afternoon and that new park sign was nowhere to be seen. Maybe that heavy rain we had yesterday washed it away?
sorry gary, old age...i meant bat flake
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 29, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
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Nah, the bottom of Bat Flake is a dihedral with a finger crack in the corner. How about Elsa's Crack?
Yeah, those rains can be pretty darn heavy up there...uhemm (sorry, had to clear my throat, getting over a chest cold).
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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The land jurisdictions of woodson - very basic, actual boundaries were not available
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Thanks Ron, it's nice to have a rough idea of who manages what land
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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I need $300 to get out to San Diego...anyone?
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Errena
climber
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Did anyone find a #2 and a #3 by Cornflake anytime since Friday? I spaced at some point and lost them somewhere. We went from Cornflake to the Cave and Alcoa, so if they're there, they'd be at Cornflake. I would really appreciate getting them back :/
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Finder's fee, perchance? I got all the good karma I need, greed is good.
Or so I'm told.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
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Errena is with our crew. So ya if anyone finds those cams and is feeling like a good samaritan, either get in touch with her and you can give them to me if we meet up on the hill, and I'll pass them along.
Thanks
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ATS
climber
escondido, ca
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Info on Greg's Face?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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What info are you looking for ATS??
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ATS
climber
escondido, ca
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FA info, grade etc...
Thanks,
Adam
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AdventureGirl
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca
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Hey guys,you're in luck! I was climbing at Mt Woodson last weekend and found some gear. I'd love to return it to the owner. I found it near the CornFlake climb/area. Contact me so I can get that back to you....it's good Karma :)
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Errena
climber
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Hey AdventureGirl!
First off, you're awesome! I'll send you an email in a minute.
-Elena
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Happy Birthday Ron! Crank a mantle or two to celebrate...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Ron, you must be what, "60" now? Happy birthday old man!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Ron and I are the same age, so that'd make im, like, 39 or thereabouts.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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^^^
I clearly go to the wrong parties.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Okay, to keep some color in the thread, I found some random Woodson photos online...
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Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
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Whoa! Happy b-day Ron. And sweet finds Gary. That dyno Sharma is hucking is massive!
I made it out to the hill on Saturday. Surprisingly decent conditions with the healthy breeze. Highlights include: hiking up with my girlfriend and the 2.5 year old she nannies for, exploring the schoolyard with Greg, and Fall Semester with Brandon, Doug, Greg, and Jason. With the crazy/hot weather we're having these days, I'm keeping my fingers crossed for cool temps for the April 14 get together.
Edit: Greg is bogarting an abundance of fresh pictures from the past few weeks.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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This is just wrong...
This is right...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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"During my roaming around...I ended up spying a huge pit of rocks. Since caves and arete’s always pique my curiosity I chimneyed down and “found” what Link (my pet name for Chris, cute huh?) would soon get the FA of and name “Hotdog down a Hallway." The climb has about 25ft of climbing but because of the pit and the angle of the ground you never get above 3ft from the pads until the last 8ft or so when you exit. And what an exciting exit it is! The problem got it’s name cuz if you blow the top you are going to pin ball off the boulder behind you and to the left and look like a “hotdog being thrown down a hallway”." - Jesse Bonin http://evolvclimbing.tumblr.com/post/762981189/mason-all-that-is-man-daly
Chris Lindner...
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2012 - 12:08am PT
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Bogarting! sorry guys- have to study occasionally ; )
not really a "name that climb" per se but....
some new proj's
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Hey thanks everybody for the birthday wishes! 56 is old enough to know better and too old to do it anyway. Golden years my azz.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Really Ron, (56)? I was thinking my older brothers age, (52). Looking suave bro.!
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Hey Mark, I've seen that chimney.
Pretty damn committed moves!
Did you top out?
Great shot regardless!
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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greg, should i know that project seam? sure looks familiar...
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2012 - 11:35pm PT
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Doubt it Ron- you may but it's not in your recent stomping grounds
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Ron,That chimney look's a lot like the area Johnny took us?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Just curious....can anyone still see my posts?
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Yep!
edit: good mornin' & i hope ya hava blessed day, bro!!
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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in regards to UP and the '86 contest...
i had moved back to SD from the San Fernando Valley area where I had been working to go back to SDSU and pretty much quit climbing around Spring of '83. around fall of '85/spring of '86 i ran into this guy at school who wanted to learn how to climb and started meeting him over at santee a couple times a week. so after viewing the contest at woodson later that spring we shifted our focus from primarily face climbing at santee to cracks, etc. at woodson. like i said, i only tr'd UP one time and don't recall much. but i do recall the contest, and i'm pretty damn sure that UP was given more points than both 10d on the outside & i will die for you(or whatever it's called). at the time i felt that i will die for you was a sandbag(due to the low amount of points afforded it in comparison)and how i couldn't get more than one move off the ground on it that morning(first time i tried it). as did at least one fairly well known climber(who was obviously much better than myself). anybody recall the points given to those three probs during the contest? i was way out of shape anyway and still climbing in eb's at that point, so i cud be mistaken. i did get back into it pretty seriously but never tried UP again.
the dood i introduced to climbing got really good at woodson. i witnessed him solo starving in sterio & widows bereft. but that was after we had spent many days working on them. he went on to swing leads with scott cosgrove on the rostrum during the summer of '87, about one year after i first took him to santee. he also onsighted butterballs(coz belayed him)that same week. his name is jonathan spurgion...maybe someone knows him.
edit: i meant '86 contest & Spring '83/'86, knott '73/'76, etc.!!
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matisse
climber
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I know Jonathan,
He's still climbing. Who knows, maybe I can get him out on the hill for the gala event.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Cool!
Is he still living in San Diego?
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matisse
climber
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yep. I just sent him a message on FB. Maybe he'll post up
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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THANKS!!
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JonathanTyrosisMaximus
Gym climber
San Diego, CA
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Hi All! This is Jonathan. I am still alive! Is there some sort of Woodson get-together soon?
Splitter: gosh, I fit some of your history. I guess you mean me. I did onsite Butterballs (after watching videos of Jonny Woodward). I swung leads on the Rostrum, but that was with the "Schnyd" not Cosgrove. I sort of soloed Widow Bereft because the girl, who was belaying me, was feeding slack for the TR instead of taking it in as I was ascending! I had a romantic attraction to her before that trip but afterwards figured she was not really the one.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Hey Jonathan, long time no see!
Yea...there's a list forming on another thread here titled Mt. Woodson Boulder Jam April 14.
How ya been?
edit: Okay, Steve S...i wasn't on that trip, just recall you relating it to me upon your return to SD. New it was one of the, soon to become, rock gods...
btw, he goes by Shipoopi(or something like that)here, you'll havta ask him about that moniker...evidently thats a long story!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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I think it's pretty cool that dialogue from the '86 contest is resurfacing...I knew there had to be more out there considering the turnout that year. Speaking of, here are two more from '86 that were hiding in the San Diego Reader's website:
5.9/5.10 face on Tower #2...
Traverse into the 5.11 crack on the Marshmallow Tower...
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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looks like Raker in the last photo. No Hat Rack visible, so I can't be sure. Anyone confirm?
Peace
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Ron, of course that's the Rake. Not much doubt about that. I'm wondering if the picture is staged though. It's hard to comprehend that he could go long enough to do a toprope without stopping to eat something. So maybe the absence of food in the picture does cast some doubt on who it really is.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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I dunno henny, looks like he's chewing on something.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Henny, thanks. Raker's in China right now, got to talk with him as he was out the door on his way. Great guy.
Peace
When is the gathering?? Trying to be there again, if Prebble carts the beers up again in his cooler on wheels!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 10, 2012 - 05:02pm PT
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Check out the bulge in his chalk bag...the stash is in there.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Mar 11, 2012 - 04:55pm PT
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Jonathan,
just now noticed the email & cell # ya left a couple days ago(8th). i'll be contacting you, thanks!
edit: i forgot that i set up an email just for this site, my reg email is different...duh!
sorry about the thread drift...
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
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Jonathan, did you really solo starving? That's awesome!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 13, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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Hey Greg, I'm sure I read earlier that Jonathan couldn't recall, for sure, if it was Starving or Digits Delight that he soloed, but I don't see it now.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Mar 13, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
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The "Hat Rack" got his name from the bulge on the other side. I have a photo but have to refrain from posting here out of respect for Raker.
Peace
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Mar 13, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
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He soloed both of them. After many TR's. I put down "maybe it was DD" because i thought perhaps i had embarresed him. Humble dood.
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JonathanTyrosisMaximus
Gym climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 15, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
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No, I never soloed Starving in Stereo, I think Rick Piggot did. I soloed a bunch of other things there.
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JonathanTyrosisMaximus
Gym climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 15, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
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Mr. Splitter,
Call me it would be great to chat.
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JonathanTyrosisMaximus
Gym climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 15, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
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Truthdweller,
Digits was one of the ones that was on my solo training circuit. I was at Woodson about nine months ago and toproped Digits - wow, it hard. After years of gym, sport climbing and domestication and not to mention 15 lbs heavier it seems that I am not in my top crack shape anymore.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 15, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
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Man, do I ever relate to that. Crack shape NOT.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Mar 19, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
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I am pretty convinced that I managed to lose my grigri on the hill a couple weeks ago. If anybody found or finds it, I'd like to get it back. Thanks.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Mar 19, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
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Here are some photos from a ways back
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Mar 19, 2012 - 07:40pm PT
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Doug is the first one "head first..."
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2012 - 01:45am PT
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took me a few seconds to figure out that second one man! I hope someone else can figure it out too : )
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boulderkitty
Trad climber
LA
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Mar 20, 2012 - 02:20am PT
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I'm going to Woodson in a April. It'll be my first time there. Can someone please recommend a guidebook that covers the area? Thanks :)
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blr
climber
socal
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Mar 20, 2012 - 01:19pm PT
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boulderkitty, he goes by the name of Horvath here, and he might be available for rent on the weekend of April 14/15.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Mar 20, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
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You got it Rick.
Anyone know what the second photo is?
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Friend
climber
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Mar 20, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
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Pretty sure I recognize it... is this problem around the other side?
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
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Sick shot Friend! and good eye.
WO BLR!.... that's very rude
but uhh..
what kind of rate are we talking?
boulderkitty: amicks' got some old topos that I can send you online in PDF's.
SD climbing guidebook contains information of sorts- but you'd have to buy it.
some other topos I could send you/point you too as well. feel free to pm me.
or yes I will be on the hill April 14/15 and would happily point some things out.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 28, 2012 - 11:35pm PT
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Hey Jonathan,
Within the past five years or so, I too, put a TR on Digitsdelight, after having been away from it for many years, and walked pretty much through it. But when I came to the top out, I stopped and tried to envision myself up there without a rope and said, I must have been nuts!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 28, 2012 - 11:37pm PT
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I'm stumped on both the crack photos!
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boulderkitty
Trad climber
LA
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Mar 29, 2012 - 12:30am PT
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I've got the So Cal bouldering guide. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't a newer book out. I also got some great topos from a fellow ST member. So psyched to check out Woodson in a few weeks!
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Ive seen that guide i think....
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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next saturday mob scene on the hill! If any local yokels have old ropes still suitable for TR, get them to me sometime next week or bring them early sat morning. My idea is to hang ropes on a bunch of stuff and leave them there for anyone to use all day.
Robbins, painted, uncertainty, jaws, digits, seminar, control tower, MS, hmt, im willing to run around and do the setup, but need ropes. Help would be nice too.
email me
gonamok@yahoo.com
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Thanks to those of you who gave positive response to my request for ropes and help. Me n epps will be going up the hill between 8-9 to hang a bunch of trs. Anyone who wants to join us and help out, just show up. If you have any old crabs, slings or rope pieces that will help too.
We would like to have ropes hanging on at least a dozen routes for open usage all day. If you dont want to come early thats ok too, but its gonna be a good time, so be there or be square.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Ron, you've got a GREAT plan there.
I hope you have a big turnout.
I'll be thinking of you all, have a fun time!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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$450 will do it...anyone?
Take photos ya'll!
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Apr 11, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
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thanks scuffy, sorry to hear you cant make it.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
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Ron, just picked up a bunch of ropes yesterday, like 5, 40 foot lengths, so perfect for a lot of the play ground stuff.
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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Apr 15, 2012 - 02:55am PT
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who lost their climbing shoe? I found one 510 left. And where was everyone today? Hit me up if you want your shoe.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Apr 16, 2012 - 03:29am PT
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Had fun saturday with the folks who decided to come out, which werent many.
People like to talk about how fun the last get together was, then when the opportunity to do it again comes up it seems everybody suddenly has something better to do.
I never thought climbers would be so peer dependent. If this guy is coming then that guy will come too, and if he comes, so will this other guy, and when enough of those guys sign on it becomes ok for everybody else to show up. The problem is that this guy isnt going to commit before he knows if that guy is coming, and because nobody has the balls to just say "I will be there" they all stay home and watch cartoons instead.
Really? Are we climbers or socialites? Whatever. Some good people did turn up and we had alot of fun despite the intermittant rain, and got a firsthand demonstration of how fast the rock dries at woodson, even in overcast weather. A totally wet boulder can be dry enough to climb in less than a half hour.
My personal highlight was to be on the hill with one of my bestest buds Greg Epps again, climbing those familiar boulders like we have so many times in the past. James Barnett came all the way down from Bishop, another longtime san diego homeboy back on the home boulders. The young guns were well represented and full of energy as usual. Horvath worked me good (as usual) by asking to see my new trail wayyy down the hill (you know Im not gonna say no to that), and Johnny Weinberg was cranking everything in sight (as usual) and went scoping for new routes with us too.
Thanks everybody, i had a great time.
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Friend
climber
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Apr 16, 2012 - 02:35pm PT
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>> Sick shot Friend! and good eye.
Thanks Horvath, and nice shot Doug. I just looked at that seam and shook my head... you guys are shredding hard! I've bumped into Mark and Lauren a couple times and Doug once - always super positive vibes from you guys. That's where it's at. Doug, you were working on Greg's Crack that day - did you manage to get it yet?
QUESTION for Woodson locals - i've tried to find the Y Crack twice now, no luck. Thrashed my way up to what I thought was it, sort of an inverted Y looking crack maybe 50 yards from the dirt road, above and right from the reservoir. But, up close, it didn't look right. Can anyone point me in the right direction, or better yet, post a photo of it? Thanks.
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ATS
climber
Mountain Project
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Apr 16, 2012 - 03:32pm PT
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Friend,
Try putting the following coordinates into google map.
33.009824, -116.963668
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Friend
climber
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Apr 16, 2012 - 04:44pm PT
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Wow, I walked right by this boulder, thinking the route was the prominent crack on the boulder just to the north.
Thanks ATS, that is great beta. Google is amazing.
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ATS
climber
Mountain Project
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Apr 16, 2012 - 05:36pm PT
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One of best routes at Woodson.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 17, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
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Any photos?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Apr 19, 2012 - 03:02am PT
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It was pretty wet Gary, so my camera only came out once... I think i got a shot of epps cranking some desperate V0+ test piece tho, Ill see if it came out.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 23, 2012 - 01:34am PT
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Man, I miss the smell of Woodson when it's wet! Gettin' fat out here on the east coast...never been this heavy.....EVER!
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Friend,
I haven't been back to try Greg's Crack...it shut me down pretty hard the day we saw you. Compared to the seam, you are definitely on the better climb. The seam is short, hard, and painful. I guess you could make that claim for a good portion of the cracks at woodson, but it seems most appropriate for that climb. We thought it was a pretty big sandbag at 11+. Has anyone done it? Or been on it? Consensus? (Also, I thought Cat Crack, in the same area, was pretty fun.)
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
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Finally getting back on the hill. It may be getting to be spring/summer, but lower hill afternoon sesh's are sweet!
Doug and I got out on Thursday and had a ball. started climbing a little after 5 and finished a little after 9.
Warmed up on the practice boulders. Then I got spanked by Allenby's sh#t show lieback/mantel/highball just below sunday afternoon.
Doug did a few laps on the sunday afternoon layback before we moved up to Substance Abuse and the the sweet 10+ face climb right across from it.
You can just barely see Doug's "F*#k ya! that climb was awesome!" smile
And last but not least we finished up in the dark on two kneebashing fun fests. This one is for all you "name that climb" junkies : )
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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...then i got spanked on Allenby's sh*t show...
Not sure which one you're referring to.
Makes me smile though!
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Friend
climber
|
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I agree, Cat Crack is killer.
We thought it was a pretty big sandbag at 11+. Somehow that doesn't surprise me...
Nice photos Horvath, and classic Megas Doug.
Re. the Y Crack. Finally climbed it, it is the crack on the boulder above the one ATS gave the coordinates for, a few posts back. It's dead obvious... except that it doesn't look anything like a "Y". Or maybe I need my eyes checked. Great climb... it seemed like someone had made a trail to it recently.... if anyone was up there and lost a piece of gear, feel free to email me and ID/claim it.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
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i'll have to get a photo of it sometime Rick... Ron just pointed it out to me one day and its listed on one of his topos as 11+ : )
one of my favorite grades
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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May 10, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
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hey friend i was up their a few weeks ago. I didn,t lose and gear. did you see the old glue ups out their.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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May 13, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
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LOVE my megas
If you lost a pair of glasses on the hill, they are at the base of Robbins.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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May 14, 2012 - 03:28am PT
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Greg, I would appreciate if you would quit bouldering all my routes. Did you check out the thin potential to the right of substance abuse?
The knee banger kinda looks like the soloflex.
On the Allenby deal, (which I propose to name "Richard Eugene" since he isnt gonna put a name on it) - it was something everybody pointed at on the way up the hill but nobody ever tried. So one day we decide to take a serious look at it and it had all the hallmarks of unclimbed rock. Lichen on the footholds, debris in the only handhold and undisturbed deadfall at the base. We took turns trying it, I got nowhere, but on like the 3rd try he pulled up and mantled onto the crescent ledge. Then he screwed around for 20 minutes before finishing it. I tried a couple more times with zero luck.
So Rick comes down and tells me its probably 10D. Im like F YOU if it was 10D i woulda climbed it. And he actually argues for a 10D rating even tho i couldnt touch it. I mean I probably would have sent it if it were 11D! 10D my ass. I think after 25 years he has relented and admits it could have been a little harder (ya think?!). Ive asked alot of people and havent found anyone else who has done it. Since this was probably 85-86, i think its safe to say its Allenbys FA.
The face climb opposite substance abuse is "summertime blues" 10D (V1 now i guess). Me and Rick did that at the same time we did substance abuse.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2012 - 01:09am PT
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HA! that story sounds about right. You mantel that ledge and then just ponder the next few moves. or in my case scary downmantel and drop.
as for the thin potential to the right of substance abuse. Its been done. I believe Eric Roed put up Relapse 11- sometime ago. Definitely more dirty than substance but also fun.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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o and soloflex is incorrect : )
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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May 15, 2012 - 08:49am PT
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Once I stood on the ledge I felt I was at the point of no return.
With my butt "puckered up" I finally made the last couple of friction
moves over the top.
Needless to say I never wanted to repeat it.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 14, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
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If that flake is what it looks like, that's a funky, flash distorted, night shot of Slapstick!
"knee banging"....yup!
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jun 15, 2012 - 03:21am PT
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C'mon....you can id that photo. The classic sandbag pictured involves a high-step on to that feature. From there?????
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 15, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
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Have I done that problem Doug? You undercling/pinch the bottom of that flake/xenolith before the highstep, right?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 15, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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wtf? what is this? is that just a a sweet angle photo angle on Rockwork Orange, or a doable-looking crack on Wodson I've never done?!
tap tap tap....
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jun 15, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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^^^I had the same question.
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LMo
climber
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Jun 15, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
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Pretty sure that is at Rexrodes. I don't remember the name but I am sure Mark, Greg, or Doug will. Although now that they are done with finals they probably won't be on supertopo as much...
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
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baha Lauren!! I still got one more final in 2 hours! : )
yes it is rexrodes, as far as I know it does not have a name.
and Gary keep guessing.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 16, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
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Before I give up, how about a clue?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 16, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
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The gap in the bottom right of the photo is baffling me too...
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p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
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Jun 18, 2012 - 01:37am PT
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the park sign is up again but now its more like a trail head sign.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2012 - 07:18pm PT
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hmm, a hint, well thats a crimp, and its one of the only "holds" on the route...otherwise you just paw your way up
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jun 18, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
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Is that the slab behind the little water tank by the yellow house?
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jun 18, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
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It is low on the hill, but it's not that face, Johnny.
Hint: They don't come much balder
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 19, 2012 - 11:21am PT
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My brain is frazzled on that photo, prolly cause I just THINK it looks familiar. Is that the correct orientation? I give up.
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Friend
climber
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Jun 19, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
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That Rexrodes problem is sweet.
Anyone recognize this one? Dead vertical, 30’ splitter. Where is it?
Edit: Doug's hint applies here too, hahahha
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 19, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
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Man, Woodson produces some world class splitters! (35) years and never seen this one either.
Edit: I've been told that the plaid, button-up, pressed cotton shirts are the new "in" thing these days, since Honnold's solo ascent of Half Dome. Looks more comfortable than lycra, I'll have to admit!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 19, 2012 - 04:28pm PT
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Pfff. I was rockin' that stylee in '73.
I'm starting to think I should have gone down to Rexrodes more.
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Friend
climber
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Jun 19, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
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bvb - your fashion atrocities are the stuff of legend, man.
Rexrodes is small but worth a visit. The 5 minute approach is nice too.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 19, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
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bvb - your fashion atrocities are the stuff of legend, man.
I believe you meant to say they are the stuff of american legend.
__
Is the slab on the left "Slap and Tickle?"
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 19, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
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I think what's throwing me is your statement, " The classic sandbag pictured...", for I'm out of anymore classics ideas.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
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bingo
and the right side of the slab is called...?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 20, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
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Where "low on the mountain" is this boulder?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 20, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
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When Amick took me to that thing he told me it was 5.10, so I immediately assumed it was 5.11+. What do they call it these days?
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jun 20, 2012 - 10:48pm PT
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I don't think I've seen that crack before... looks amazing, no doubt!
Slap and tickle (a brilliant problem by the way), is kind of hard to rate. I've only attempted/sent it once.
In early May, Greg and I put in approximately a combined 20 to 30 attempts by headlamp. Suddenly, one of us sent it. Immediately after, the other topped it out, too. It was such a surreal phenomenon as there was at most a 2 minute interval of good conditions. As with those sends go, the movement was natural and the climbing followed a path of weakness. Following the sends, we were so psyched and moved shop to the "unidentified neighbor." However, the 2 minute interval had fleeted and we were left to bash our knees for another hour or so. Greg being the beast he is, repeated an earlier ascent of his. I, however, could use to practice more yoga.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2012 - 10:29am PT
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Friend, i dont know for sure, but that looks like its is over on the north side, and might I say, surrounded by poison oak.
Just waiting for Ron to chime in, but bvb, any recollection on the name of that route to the right of slap and tickle. should be KP's Demise, but if you or anyone else has heard otherwise let us know.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 22, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
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The thing to the right of Slap n' Tickle....know not, do I. But I remember how bummed my 'ol buddy Ronbo was when I hiked Slap n' Tickle.
He should have known better than take me to a slab. I think it was around the same month I did Head First In The Bushes. Heh.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 23, 2012 - 12:20am PT
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Hey Bob, Ron, other Woodson locals (still not sure whether to fit you in Darryl),
Share some tales of how you used Woodson to directly/indirectly prepare/train for a particular route/crack. I recall hearing about, then having the incredible opportunity of following, Tom Lindner, up the hill on his solo crack circuit, while he was training to do the Nose in the Valley. You must have some of your own.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 24, 2012 - 01:27am PT
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Hey Bob, Ron, other Woodson locals (still not sure whether to fit you in Darryl),
Share some tales of how you used Woodson to directly/indirectly prepare/train for a particular route/crack. I recall hearing about, then having the incredible opportunity of following, Tom Lindner, up the hill on his solo crack circuit, while he was training to do the Nose in the Valley. You must have some of your own.
Maybe not!
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jun 24, 2012 - 01:42am PT
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It's all about the opposite... training for Woodson.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 24, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
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I was just commenting to someone today about how a problem like Lemon Chiffon was a classic problem that prepared your head for the runouts experienced at Suicide. Then again, I know for me, I pushed myself to highball problems just so that my head would develop while on the lead. Woodson was always a test piece for that, for as someone said in the past, "Ah, Woodson, where a fifteen foot fall could be fatal."
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jun 25, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
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Out of curiosity (and maybe this has already been discussed), what is the most definitive and up to date guide for Woodson these days--published, or unpublished? I know all the classics, and then some, but lots of other areas have been more fully explored since the years I regularly haunted the hill.
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matisse
climber
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Jun 25, 2012 - 03:32pm PT
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I'd have to say Horvath, Mark K or Doug.
Sure there is BVB (American Legend) Amick etc. but they are not widely available.
:)
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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"Out of curiosity (and maybe this has already been discussed), what is the most definitive and up to date guide for Woodson these days--published, or unpublished? I know all the classics, and then some, but lots of other areas have been more fully explored since the years I regularly haunted the hill."
Man, I'm not going to touch that one, for I'd get my head bit off by someone for sure! Matisse has a good point though, if a visitor can find a consummate guide to head up the hill with, they're golden! Even with a thorough guidebook, you just can't navigate efficiently on that mountain with all the hidden trails, etc. I was fortunate to have had a mentor, Roger Barnes, to take me under his wing and guided me for the first five years or so, and continues to be a part of my climbing memories to this day. He's in his seventies now. When I first met him, I used to call him "old man," and he'd call me, "punk kid." I was (19), he was (45). Time flew, that's for sure!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
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OT but, I just came upon this photo online and said, "Wait, that's me (with the glasses on)!
I believe I was at this ACSD meeting asking for help in putting the Woodson Reunion together.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
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Korean Cowboy?...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
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Two year old Chris Lindner at the '86 Woodson contest...
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
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Mr. Paul...@ the '86 contest?
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Phantom Fugitive
Social climber
Misery
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Jul 19, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
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Headed to Santee to visit the fam next week. Any locals wanna give me a tour of ze' Mt Wilson? Looking for ze' classic cracks.
I can bring a healthy pad and am a 5.15b spotter.
Jeremy Collins
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2012 - 03:06pm PT
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sick photo of Greg's Face Gary. and yes that's eliot on Korean Cowboy.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jul 21, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
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Jeremy, I'm down for woodson. When did you want to go?
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deano
climber
sonora
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Jul 21, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
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Does anyone know who did the first ascent of Hard As Nails? Or the first ropeless ascent? Such a bad ass route!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 21, 2012 - 10:21pm PT
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deano,
I can only tell you who/when I first heard of someone third classing HAN, and that was Dave "Spray" Robinson, circa ' 85-90, but I wouldn't be surprised if Rick Piggot did it before Dave was even born! Rick third classed hard up on Woodson!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Sep 21, 2012 - 08:48am PT
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Bump...cool enough back there yet?
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ATS
climber
Mountain Project
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Sep 21, 2012 - 11:49am PT
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Just had the hottest week of the year last week!
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hellcyon
climber
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Sep 21, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
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Just means you have to burrow deeper into the shade...
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hellcyon
climber
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Sep 26, 2012 - 11:32pm PT
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Happy Trails ^-^
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 26, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
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Hey buddy, what routes are in photos 2 and 3?? Look amazing!
I've only played out there :( haven't had the real tour
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Sep 26, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
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That malignant grapefruit hold looks boss.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 27, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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I think that hold is actually somewhere in Oakland....
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hellcyon
climber
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Sep 30, 2012 - 07:21pm PT
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Hey Greg
Oak...land alright..
Which isn't far from Big Pine
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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I know that "fist full of Boulders" shot down by the dirt road that swings around that pond at the bottom of the mountain. It's there on the cool looking inverted "comma" looking seam/boulder that Johnny, et al, found. Cool little 5.9 finger/hand crack with a slippery topout.
...and my favorite berry patch is in full swing I see...yummmmmm!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Oct 14, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
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I got this text/MMS yesterday:
Wish you were here...
My long time friend, Steve Belford posing on the "Capt's Chair" on The Cave, Mt. Woodson. That was perfect timing after having just got home from surgery for a herniated disc with spinal chord compromise. I'm ambulatory and doing well. Thank God for His talents through others.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
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Well despite this weekend's coming temp spike, this past week felt good on the hill. maybe just maybe the season has started.
Doug and I were chatting about the thread the other day, and came up with a few things to share. Hopefully these will be funny and helpful.
Some things we hope to see on the thread this season to keep psych and motivation high:
More Stories (especially from the last cohort): FA's, adventure, schwacking, crazy sends...
More photos, especially good but forgotten stuff, or new stuff
Less personal attacks- that's what pm's are for
Less non-woodson related posts
More bvb
hope to see you on the hill!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
moving thru
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Oct 26, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
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Truthdweller,
Good to hear you are healing up! Prayers for you.
If anyone is up for another Woodson Reunion in 2013 I'd be glad, once again, to host the party portion.
Cheers to All. lynne l.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Heck, I'd fly out just for the grub at Lynne's house! Chicken quesadillas, homemade salsa, guacamole, all you can eat home-grown oranges with coffee, man, comfort food last time or what?! Directions online would suffice for an after climb get together.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
moving thru
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It was a totally fun time and I owe it all to you Truthdweller. What a great evening and an even greater group of people to hang with.
The gift of the rope was an incredible surprise. Thanks, and worn it to a frazzle. Cheers, lynne
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Great weather at Woodson last Sunday. 2013 reunion would be cool, hope it will materialize.
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 15, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
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Yo, all past, present & future Woodson StoneMonkeys, i have a question for ya; how many times has 'Silk Banana' been sent? Up to the current date? And, what is the current rating?
This (latest, me thinks) guide & that other site (rock.com, or whatever its called/and elsewhere) call it 5.12c!
Sounds plausable to me, although i haven't done it in over 20 years! And, in all the days I spent there in the 70's-80's to early 90's, I never saw or heard of anyone else sending it other than Rick Piggott!!!
I have seen the pics of Bob Van Belle "sending" it, but he uses his left knee all the way across the undercling. I don't consider that as a pure undercling/send (sorry BVB). It would take someone very tall to do that, and I doubt it is really anywhere near as hard as straight underclinging it. Not sure how Rick Piggott did it, since I wasn't there (maybe Largo remembers?).
Anyway, the person with the history on it & Woodson in general, is Ron Amick (gonamok). But he hasn't posted her on ST in almost a year! Are you out there Ron??
According to him, the only person who has really done it, as far as he knows, was Rick Piggott!
So, has anyone done it recently? ... Speak up!
The reason I ask is because about a year ago (maybe last Spring/April) I sprayed about how I had done it bitd, and had gotten to the point where i was doing laps on it. Believe me, it wasn't easy to get to that point. I/we couldn't do it for the first year we tried it (off and on/'85-'86). And i eventually gave up on it. (harder than shit). But we were trying it on the way back down the hill. So, one day I had this brilliant idea (lol), I decided to make it "my project" (LOL) and focused just on it (or as the first thing in the day). First 2-3 days I got nowhere, then the next time I got that first real hard un dercling move (where everyone falls off in the vids, etc). I eventually got all of them (not any harder, but not any easier). Then i got to the point where i could do laps.
Of course I was WAY honed back then (L&LOL). Could do around 40 consecutive pull-ups & over 100 pull-ups in 3 sets! Now I prollie couldn't do 5-10 consecutive pullups & I way about 40 lbs more than i did then!!!
OKAY ... those are the stats! The reason I am bringing all this up, is I believe I can still send that MoFo ... 1st try ... and I have NOT even been to Woodson, let alone on Silk Banana, in over 20 years!!! Haven't even climbed in about 10+ years.
Why do I bring all of this up? Because, I am a gambling man, and I am willing to bet anyone, any amount of money I can still send that sucker first try!!!!!!!!!!!
Anyone willing to bet me, and OLD f*#king fart, that I CAN'T, do it???
If you are willing, then put your f'n money where your f'n mouth is!!
I will match ANY amount!!!!
We could designate a third party to hold the doe! I will match anything that comes in. We can set a day. I will meet you there, and the winner takes the whole pot. Or, at least, I will take the whole pot if I send it FIRST F'N TRY!!! Everyone else will just double the money they bet against me not being able to send it 1st try!
ANY TAKERS???
EDIT: Not only am I in the worst fookin shape of my life, I need a total knee replacement (TKR)! Workers Comp is going to do it (whenever I want). BUT, i want to do this first.
ONCE AGAIN ... ANY GAMBLERS OUT THERE???
YOU COULD MAKE SOME BIG $$/BUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
GO FOR IT! FLEECE MY F*#KING ASS!!!! LOL
BTW, I am pretty sure that it is MUCH harder than 5.12c! I was firmiliar with .12's & some 13's bitd, and that (Silk Banana) seemed much harder (in my opinon, anyway). Just saying. Ron Amick (gonamok) seems to think so also! The d00d (guideb00k to Woodson, d00d) who rated it 5.12c has never even done it (not sure where he came up with that rating) And it seems that all the other ST type internet sites came up with the same rating because he said so (lame)!!!
Wudevah!!!!
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 15, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
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here is a pic of 'Silk Banana'...
doesn't look all that intimidating since it is right next to the ground (i wish it was a LONG ways off the deck) and maybe it doesn't look all that hard, but just go and give it a try and report back!
edit: Horvath, did you manage to get that problem (silk banana)? what do you think it should be rated?
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 15, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
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check this vid of the "Pullharder" crew failing on it (Silk Banana) it will give you an idea just how hideously strenuous it really is!
Plus, i will NOT use my knee[s] at all!
[youtube=http://vimeo.com/9570998]
edit: any takers?
once again, i will match any amount; $10, $20, $50, $100, $500, $1,000, $10,000 ...!!!
I WILL put my money where my mouth is!!!!!!!
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splitter
Trad climber
da'Raven / Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 15, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
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YO, PEEPS, WTF??!!??!!
Not even one F'n comment?
WATSUP, STONEMONKEYS??
AND THIS IS CLIMBING RELATED!!
I AM SERIOUS ... !
IF SOME STUPID FU.CK WANTED TO THROW HIS MONEY AWAY ON SOME DUMBASS BET, I WOULD BE THE VERY FIRST PERSON TO JUMP ON IT!!!!!
JUST THINK ABOUT IT ... WHAT'S THE LIKLIHOOD THAT I COULD SEND THAT THING (SILK BANANA) ON MY FIRST TRY?
YA NEED A LITTLE EXTRA XMAS MULLA?? ... LET'S TALK!!!
edit: it's a CHALLENGE, i'm CHALLENGING anyone with the balls (and money) to come forward and bet me that i CAN'T do it (on my first try), that i'm FULL of SH#T!! ... AND, if your right, YOU walk away with the MONEY!!!
d00ds, it don't get any EASIER than that!! it would be like PICKING MONEY OFF OF TREES, for goodness sake!!!!!!!!!
edit: DID YA WATCH THAT VID? THOSE GUYS ARE ALL IN THEIR PRIME, I AM WAY OVER THE HILL!! SHEEEESH!!! I CAN'T EVEN GIVE MONEY AWAY, WHAT IS THE WORLD COMING TO???
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
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splitter;
tranquillo dude! they were awesome videos. y'all check them out.
I made one visit to Woodson during a confersence in SD in ... '93, and it defined my concept of heaven.
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Ken
Trad climber
Arroyo Grande
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Nov 16, 2012 - 12:29am PT
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Splitter,
Try to be more like Keith Brueckner.
Gary,
I'll try to check my box for pictures -- know there are tons in there. Hope you are healing.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Nov 16, 2012 - 01:52am PT
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Game on! I'll be there Sun.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Nov 16, 2012 - 01:56am PT
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How much if I solo Airstream?
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splitter
Trad climber
da'Raven / Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 16, 2012 - 01:56am PT
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Ken - Try and be more like Keith Brueckner. I have run into Keith (much respect) many times (in the 70's/80's) and we are much alike in person (quiet, mellow, etc).
You got it wrong. I could care less what people think of me. What I did or didn't do. Spraying about some measly boulder problem does nothing for my ego, if that is what you are reffering to.
I posted one simply f'n thing, climbing related, and no one even comments! This place is a f*#kin joke at times. A dear brother dies nd we (myself included) spend 99% of our time arguing about "LITTLE DICKS & BIG GUNS" and a couple dozen other trivial & mundane things.
So, after my first post here and no one answers, i decided to shove it in your faces! So what! Get over it!
You don't have to do sh#t. Just watch me send or flail, and come up with some bucks. I was simply gonna take a vid of my sorry ass attempting to send it again, after all these years. Because i did say (on Donini's thread about TR's) that i was going to do one. But i decided to make it a little more interesting. maybe get some peeps interested in coming down to Woodson this winter, eh?
Maybe we could set up another Woodson gathering and do it then.
Anyway, I get the hint ... I'll chill ...!
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splitter
Trad climber
da'Raven / Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 16, 2012 - 02:00am PT
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Johannsolo - Game on. GREAT!
Lets talk DINERO, bro!!
How much do ya want to lay down that says I can't do it. (keep in mind that I am now 63 y.o.,)!!!
If I was YOU, I would put down MEGA bucks!!!! So, dig DEEP, brah! ... just sayin'!
How much if i solo Airstream? First things first. Silk Banana, then we can discuss Airstream. Maybe do both in the same day.
BTW, Airstream doesn't come close to how desperate Silk Banana is. I new several peeps that cud do laps on Airstrem and they couldn't get one move into SB (after the first knee rest)! But, imo, Airstream is much more technical than SB!
I really think that SB is a 5.13+!! Or, at least that is what I rated/considered it at one time!
EDIT: John - thnx for chiming in. yea, it was great that you and also JB, around that time, developed the Hill to new 'heights', some real classics were put up by you guys! Longs Cracks (r&l) are supreme (some of my blood/dna is prollie still in the vicinity of them after all these years, lol)! KUDOS!!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Nov 16, 2012 - 02:39am PT
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I remember when RP did the FA on Silk Banana and the next day he dragged me up there to get the 2nd. It's seems fantastic that all these years later people are still talking sh#t about that route and having fun on it. I was working in PB for a few months recovering from a broken leg - right around 1975 - that when Long's Cracks and a bunch of that other stuff went up. I only got in on a few drops of it before being cleared for active duty and I bolted for the Valley.
JL
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Nov 16, 2012 - 09:51am PT
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We can start small then I'll give you double or nothing on the Vision
See you Sunday?
If you fail on SB, your wallet will be a little lighter, fail on Airstream, you'll end up in the hospital.
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splitter
Trad climber
da'Raven / Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 16, 2012 - 10:56am PT
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Johannsolo - See you Sunday!
Dood, I never claimed I could free solo Airstream ... ever! I may have considered it at one time (may again some day, but I doubt it).
If you want to, or have soloed it KOOL!!
I simply picked THE hardest boulder problem that I know of at Woodson, and layed down a challenge. Because Iam confident that I can still send it, after all these years, although I could be VERY disillusioned in my current ability to do so!
Like I said, I wish it was a "LONG" way off the deck, cuz i am that confident that I could still get across it at least once without falling, since I could at one time, after MUCH practice, do multiple cosecutive laps, rest and repeat it 3-4 times without much of a pump. Not sprayin', just sayin'!!
I stated on Donini's thread that I would return after 20+ years and do it again, make a TR and post it (since i have never posted a TR) and he was asking people on his thread "have you ever posted a tr" (or something to that effect) and challenging peeps to do so, instead of all this inane politard, religeous sh#t and trivial crap about "how big your weaner is and how small your gun is" (or whatever).
So, I gets this BRILLIANT idea (lol) yesterday about presenting this challenge (or whatever you want to call it). And, well here we are ...!
So, so far YOU are the only one who has bit/taken the bait (btw, i am still in the process of reeling you in, lol)! I did NOT make this about some 'You do this, I will do that, can you do it?' ... sort of game. I layed it out very clearly. You seem to know Woodson fairly well. Probably are intimately familiar with Silk Banana, and seem to be a "gambling man". If ya are, and since the odds of me pulling this off must seem mighty slim, ya really ought to empty at least your pockets (i would suggest that ya empty yer bank account, bro) and make yerself at least some bud & brew bucks, eh?
I am not about to take you up on your challenge (you turned it around to something totally different,btw). You haven't even said what kind of $$ yer willing to pony up. Plus, I want to pull in as many people as possible on this, spread the wealth so to speak (i am feeling very generous). If I went for it with your proposal, it would be "game over" this weekend. Sorry, but I have a much larger vision than the one you have come up with, so go back to yer drawing board, and perhaps save yer nichol and dimes for when this goes down, and get back to me then.
And please keep in mind that I have not been to Woodson in well over 10 years (cuz i have not climbed anything in that time) and have not even looked at SB in over 20 years. The odds of me being able to do this is vastly against me.(i can't even remember where SB exactly is located on the Hill!!)
CAPICHE????!?
BTW, thnx for responding/taking the bait ... SUCKER! (just kidding, lol)!!
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Nov 18, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
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whoa...maybe you should cut the Prozac's in half!
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 18, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
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I don't take any meds, except Lipitor (cholestrol).
Had one cup of coffee so far today. ...
I guess I'm just naturally like this!
Or, perhaps, I'm trolling?
...
NAW!
edit d00d, i see yer from dago'. homie, have ya ever given SB a go?
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Friend
climber
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Nov 18, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
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Trolling deepnet on a Woodson thread: Classic.
johansolo told you twice he'd be up there today and would take your bet, so what are you doing sitting around wasting time on the internet? Go fire the Silk Banana and collect your $$.
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Friend
climber
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Nov 18, 2012 - 07:27pm PT
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Friend, i dont know for sure, but that looks like its is over on the north side, and might I say, surrounded by poison oak.
Sorry Horvath, I overlooked your response from a few months ago. It is on the north side and pretty overgrown now. Fortunately I didn't see any poison oak right there (I'm a lightning rod for the stuff.)
A classic Woodson splitter and a classic sandbag (although I don't think the FA bouldered it).
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 18, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
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Friend,
I have already stated why I didn't take Johannsolo up on his offer;
1) he didn't/wouldn't commit to a $$ amount/bet.
2) he wanted to play you do this, i'll do that (Airstream/or we both do Airstream) then settle/winner takes all (whomever is still alive, lol).
3) i have a bigger vision in mind. take as many bets as possible. (like i have said/i'm feeling very generous, lol). and if i went with johannsolo's offer this early, it wud be 'game over' (with just one measly bet)! so i'm in no big hurry. if no one else responds, i'll just do a TR on it (like i said on Donini's thread). maybe take some pics or do a vid of it (one or the other).
Like I explained, and made it very simple; i picked THE hardest problem that I was/am aware of on the hill. I will match any/all bets (the more the better, imo). I either send or flail. All they gotta do is observe. If i send it, i collect, if i flail, i pay up! Pretty simple.
It, imo, is one of the hardest (perhaps the hardest) problem up there? Or maybe people have been flashing it left & right lately, i dunno (but i doubt it). And it has to be done without using yer knees, for a pure ascent, imo!
BTW, thanks for checking in with me!!
edit: i only know of three ascents:
1) FA Rick Piggott
2) SA John Long
3) Myself (bitd)
Perhaps there have been MANY more, but those are the only ones I am aware of.
There are some shots of BVB doing it, but he used his left knee all the way across. It is nolonger an undercling problem then, plus BVB is a tall dood (so is Rick Piggott, for that matter/not sure if he used his knees) and you need to be pretty tall to do it that way, and it makes it a lot easier. So, I don't count BVB's send!!
EDIT: Actually, the money aspect of it is really no big deal. I just had this "BRILIANT" (lol) idea on how to stir up some interest in SB/Woodson, and rolled with it!! (+ saw the opportunity to trash talk the sport-climbers)! ;)
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Nov 19, 2012 - 01:59am PT
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SB is only V5 or so. Almost got it today, next time fer sure. Let me pick the problem and you will get shut down. Great day out there, Robbins, Jaws, KP's demise. Go check out HDTV, The Vision, or Laker Girls if you really want something really hard. SB is nothing but a parlor trick that no one is intersted in and is not even that hard (how much that I can't do it?). If you think I'm a sport climber, meet me up at Suicide or out in JT. Where were you today BTW? Don't feed the troll. Also wake up, 13+ is only a measly V9, warm up for a gym rat.
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 19, 2012 - 03:11am PT
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Johannsolo - Almost got it...
V5?
You ALMOST got a V5?
That tells me everything!
d00d, do me a favor, don't waste my time anymore!!
nothing but a parlor trick Ummm. then why hasn't anyone figured it out in the last 30+ years?
It's a straight forward undercling. You can either do it or ya can't. And evidently YOU can't. So either work on it until ya can, or STFU!
The only trick to it, that I know of, is using your knee[s]. I already said i wouldn't. But, if ya want, go ahead and use that first one (pullharder doods used it in the vid i posted) since everyone seems to want to use it as a rest. It doesn't start getting hard until the next couple of moves anyway.
BTW, everybody ALMOST gets it. Fact is, they don't even come close. They get to the knee rest, then they fall off (just like in the Pullharder vid)!
And, you must have a reading comprehension problem. I could care less about any of the other problems on the hill. I spent years up there, and I have no interest in hearing what you can do. You can't do SB. Frankly, I don't care if ya can or ya can't. I made a simple bet that I could do it. I'm looking for bets that say I can't. So put yer money where yer mouth is, or STFU!
I'm not trolling anyone. When the time comes, I either send it or I don't. I either collect the bets or I pay up. Plain & simple. That's the offer I made (for the upteenth time). Yer either interested, or yer not.
EDIT: like i said, there is no trick to it. in fact, i thought the guy in the Pullharder vid (the second guy) was gonna get it, until he fell off. that is all there is to it. just like he was doing it, undercling it, untill he fell off. the only thing he did wrong, was, he fell off. evidently he didn't have the strength, stamina, balance, flow, breathing or whatever. but my guess, would be, he just didn't have the strength. cuz, basically, its a strength & endurance problem.
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 20, 2012 - 12:06am PT
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'Johannsolo - I'll get it next time! I hope you do. But if not, don't give up or as you said above, lose interest. It is, if nothing else, a great workout/pump at the end of the day. The problem is, most people do give up or lose interest after a few times!
nothing but a parlor trick and no one is interested in it and its not even that hard.
Parlor trick? Um, that is extremely disrespectful to the FA & SA party (Rick Piggott & John Long) imo!
Like I said multiple times already, it is straight forward under-cling. Nothing "trick" about it. And, "no one is interested" in it b'cuz they got tired of flailing on it and did end up losing interest in it. Or at least most of the people I new did.
And as far as this "V5 or so" goes, WHO came up with that rating? Or the 12c rating for that matter? The dood who wrote the most recent (as far as i know) Woodson guide that couldn't do it himself? Somebody in the early 90's gave it a V11 rating (maybe Piggott), I don't recall who! But that could have also been off? Not sure. It's been a way to long.
Anyway, you sound as though yer a pretty good climber/boulderer (from what you say you've been doing) and what I was implying in my last post up thread is, that if it was only V5, I think you would have gotten it yesterday. Maybe you will next time, I'd like to here an honest opinion about what the rating should be from someone who HAS done, not someone who "almost got it!"!
Gud Luck!!!
edit: also, i mentioned in my first post that I am waiting to get a left knee total knee replacement (TKR) it is bone-on-bone (zero cartilage/failed surgery). Workers Comp is going to do it whenever I want, but I have been putting it off. I will go up and give SB a shot first, but I do not want to go traipsing all over the hill.
Also, there is nothing wrong in pulling plastic in a gym, imo! I wasn't saying that. Its great especially if your already going to a gym to work out during the week. I wish they had them in the 70's and early 80's. Its just when they are the be all and end all. Nothing all that wrong with that either unless you start harping on how trad climbing/routes aren't up to par. Because really, if all someone does is climb in a gym, they are missing out on the primary reason climbing gyms were initially developed (i recall) that is to supplement traditional climbing. What it all boils down to is having fun. So whatever.
The reason I started this thread was to lure this guy from up north who is a boulderer and gym climber. That's all he does. Evidently pretty good. he's from Tahoe. He use to post here and I am pretty sure he still lurks. He use to give us crap all the time call us old farts. blah, blah blah. Said he had done SB and hd a pick of himself at the knee rest. I figured if he had done it, he would have had a pick of himself in the middle of the crux or whtever. But i doubt he did it. I thought I could lure him down with a bet. Prollie hates my guts on account of we both got booted off of ST for getting into an argument. He wasn't allowed back. His name is Weschrist. maybe you know or recall him. We got into this same argument bout SB a couple of times. maybe he doesn't even lurk here anymore. Guess it backfired!!
PerlonHex - "V3+" -- LOL!! like i said, the only trick was to use your knee[s]! they are off limit. There is no other 'trick'. Where's the proof you did it? I say yer full of it. Like I said, I was trying to pull Weschrist down here, he was willing to bet me at one time (last spring). People talk big, but they can't back it up! Come on down if yer that close (Orange Co)!
And, if its only V3+, why couldn't the mighty Johannsolo do it last weekend??? lol
On the low end it may be a V5+, but "Runamok/Ron Amick" didn't think so and neither did "Rick Piggott"! So who the hell are you???
From what I recall there weren't any moves harder that V6 but there are about 4-5 moves/under-clings in a row that are all about that. So maybe that is why somebody gave it a V5+ rating. Not really sure how they rate boulder problems these days. Maybe by the hardest individual move. But cumulatively its much harder, imo!
PerlonHex - SB is V3+ tops MH was my old stomping grounds for about 15 years. I can still do it right now, off the sofa, and is a trick. Nobody will pay you any $$$ to do that thing. LOL Go on break or put down the bottle guy. PerlonHex - i just noticed on your Jtree campsite post that yer wife is an OTR. so am i! if you lived down here and climbed at woodson, perhaps i know you or your wife since the occupational therapy business is fairly close nit (or use to be)! i work pimarily in hands/upper extremity out patient. good field!!
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hellcyon
climber
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Nov 20, 2012 - 11:09am PT
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 26, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
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Again, that triangular boulder is down at the bottom of the hill by the pond, wwith a pretty straight forward 5.8ish crack (pretty fun)...what/where is that bottom problem?
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
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ho lee sh#t
threads been quiet for while, then this ha!
Friend, glad you didn't get oaked! I light up pretty quick as well, get it every time I go to the north side. and ya trolling Rick is pretty damn funny.
btw Splitter- I'll give you 10 bucks if you can send Silk Banana this weekend.
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Juanito
Social climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 01:36am PT
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Anyone remember the Bouldering Comp back in '85? Kauk walked away with the win. Who else was there? I remember Christian Griffith came out from Colorado along with some other guys. I remember seeing Neil Cannon (I think?) flailing on some right leaning 12+ diagonal crack right off the road (Starving in Stereo?). There were two comps running simultaneously. One was a points comp and the other an elimination event. I think I still have one of the T-shirts. I entered both comps that day.
That day was the turning point in my climbing career. I remember getting on a route that Griffith couldn't get off the ground on and fired it. I thought that if I could do routes that mr big time climber couldn't, maybe I had a future in the sport.
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Juanito
Social climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 01:38am PT
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I always use to run into two guys there. Was it Dan and Donny? This was in the late eighties through the nineties. Those guys used to love to sandbag me - trouble was I'd usually end up flashing their routes. Good times...
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Nov 28, 2012 - 01:53am PT
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Ok first some background. Greg (Epperson) wasnt big on naming stuff bitd. If it wasnt some classic testpiece like syncopation he wouldnt give it a name. I guess you can do that when you put up as many classics as he has. So he would take me to some new problem that i thought was 5 star and when i asked what he named it he would go "i dont know, you name it". Greg found the masters area and i named it. He did the FA of morroccan menace and i did the repeat and gave it that name because greg was born in morocco. So when he told me about the problem on the little slab to the left, i did the repeat and called it slap and tickle because he never named little things like that, and thats how it went on my topos.
As it turned out, greg did have a name for it, because i guess he found it with KP, master of thin face, and kevin struck out, so he called it KPs demise. Two names for the same line. I corrected it on later topos, but in the meantime a variation was done going straight up out of the scoop, so now the two names are used for the 2 problems on the slab. The original line is to the left, frictioning up to shallow fingertip pods, so that should be called kps demise.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Nov 28, 2012 - 01:59am PT
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Juanito, that problem cannon (and everyone else) flailed on is a kevin powell sandbag called 5.10A on the outside. I competed in it and covered it for rock and ice magazine. My account was titled "championship bouldering", i forget which issue it was in. Rick Piggot and Carmel Schimmel ran that one and Kauk took 1st n the masters division. That shot of MP with the number on his arm was taken by me at that contest.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Nov 28, 2012 - 02:18am PT
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ok last post for today. Made my first excursion up the hill this season, and went to the far end of the pipeline trail. If you know the pipeline trail you know that its wide open a hundred yards or more then the brush closes back in and the trail jogs uphill thru thick brush to the terminator. Past the terminator the trail goes thru even thicker brush, with a leg that turns uphill and connects to the playground, and a leg that continues due west thru some hellish brush. I took epps and horvath to the end of that trail when we had the last woodson get together that nobody came to.
Today i went to the trail end again and broke thru maybe 50 feet of brush to reach a new boulder, and from the top of that boulder EUREKA! The pipeline trail breaks out again, and there is smooth sailing heading west through a bunch of virgin boulders. What a find! Where i thought would be the same sapling sized, 7-8 foot tall brush that i had been cutting thru, making 20-30 feet a day, i found an avenue that needs no clearing at all. How far the break continues remains to be seen as darkness prevented further exploration. Greg, DUDE this is epic.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Nov 28, 2012 - 02:34am PT
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because greg was born in morocco Is that fact or fiction?
KP's Demise. Hmmm, well, we'll just have to see if we can't rustle the little imp up and see if he has anything to say in his defense. It's sort of hard to believe that story. Powell failing on a slab problem, at Woodson, of all places.
Not really a quiz per say, but I did come across this picture recently and there are a couple of people who should know what it is. We'll see.
Gonna be time for the 2013 thread pretty soon. Better get those last problems of 2012 wrapped up.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Nov 28, 2012 - 11:28am PT
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Is that fact or fiction?
I've heard the same thing
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Nov 28, 2012 - 11:54am PT
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I always use to run into two guys there. Was it Dan and Donny? This was in the late eighties through the nineties. Those guys used to love to sandbag me - trouble was I'd usually end up flashing their routes. Good times...
I'm sure it was those knuckleheads. Too bad they never really figured out the art of sandbagging. Can't say nobody tried to teach them, they probably just needed a few more lessons. Yeap, good times.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
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Thanks for the history on Morroccan Menace and KP's Demise! I always wondered how they got their names.
I've been getting out there a bunch lately and doing mini "clean up jobs" around some of the roadside problems. I cleaned out the area around Little Horn, got rid of some annoying branches, cleaned up the problem (and then sent it). Super classic! My next project is to unearth "Chip Mantel" on the Top Secret File boulder. Cleaning up that brush would allow the problem to be climbed, I wonder how long it's been since it's seen an ascent?
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
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Ron, great story about KP's and Slap and Tickle.
I will say though, having climbed both routes fairly recently. Slap and tickle is a far more fitting name for the route on the left due to the nature of the climbing. Its 5.11ish and there's slapping involved/and one might even say some tickling.
The line on the right is much much harder. Not to question your memory, though maybe I should : ) but it seems far more likely that IF Powell couldn't climb one of the lines, it was the right one.
anywhoo, I'm healing a torn ligament right now, but if splitter takes up my offer I'll be on the hill this weekend. I might be up there regardless, and I'll head downhill and take a look at the new stuff- also don't talk about it on the thread Ron- otherwise the masses will go down there and steal all the FIRST ASCENTS!!!!
Darkmagus- good on you man! as for chip mantel I doubt it has been climbed in a while, though I'm not sure if Mark and Doug go up that route or 15 pointer to set up the top rope for top secret file. Either way it gets little attention. Good luck man, oftentimes the crux of the problem is figuring out exactly where on the boulder it is.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
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I'm planning on heading up there this weekend, maybe both Saturday and Sunday. I'd be psyched to meet up with some ST people!
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Nov 28, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
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Looks like the Vision boulder Henny?
I was down there two weekends ago and no Splitter on SB. I did do MM and SAT both first try. The right one is slightly harder (for me and Woodward when he was there). We also cleaned up (loose blocks) the blasted boulder just before Hamburger crack (one bolt on top) for a couple of good problems (or TR's). The Season is just starting up down there but I have a few small things to get done up at Suicide. See ya'll down there soon enough and look out, I'm cranking.
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 28, 2012 - 06:56pm PT
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Horvath - btw Splitter - I'll give you ten bucks if you can send Silk Banana this weekend. ... I'm healing a torn ligament right now. lol!
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 28, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
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Johannsolo - SB is only V5 or so. Almost got it today. Next time fer sure. So, tell me, how did it go, bro? (i figure ya sent it by now since that ^^ was two weeks or so ago)! Piece of cake, eh? Did ya take pics? Or perhaps a vid (like the Pullharder crew)?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Nov 28, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
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Was there first thing this morning (worked at Nomad at 10AM), witnessing first light up by the baby robbins circuit as the cloud cover recedes and reveals little islands made out of hills... one of the cooler experiences you can have on a ho-hum office day.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Nov 28, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
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hey Greg, Has anyboby done a 2nd on "Flight of the Ox" yet?
Pretty fuggin' burley I can only assume!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Nov 28, 2012 - 08:35pm PT
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Johann - yeah. Looking down Night Vision.
Egads, looking at that picture of JW makes my eyes hurt. First, talk of KP, then a picture of JW. It's getting brutal around here.
Ron, please provide me with explicit directions, exact coordinates, and a detailed list of which of the new boulders appear to have the best potential as well as any details regarding specific lines scoped. Thanks in advance.
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 28, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
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i recall Dan & Donny, cool doods, imo! Donny use tto quit climbing and focus on golf every once in a while. He always came crawling back to Woodson, though! Dan's wife use to boulder/climb with Lindner's wife, as i recall! They were also good friends with Rick Piggott! Cool peeps & excellent climbers, btw!
Donny - black hair (lean/good strength > weight ratio)!
Dan - blond hair (buffed out/prollie cudda kicked my ass, so i was REAL nice to him, lol)!
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 28, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
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Johannsolo - Take your BS elsewhere Splitshitter/PH! Not funny. Uhm, you did just make a post in regards to me up thread, bro!...
Johannsolo - I was just down there last weekend and no Splitter. So I responded (otherwise i had no intentions of posting on this thread).
AND, once again, I'm only doing this out of respect for the FA & SA (Piggott & Long)! I here all this sh#t about it is ONLY V-whatever!
Other than that, I have a lot of respect for you guys, b'cuz yer keeping Woodson alive and in the picture (so to speak)! KUDOS!!
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Nov 28, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
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Take your BS elsewhere. Splitshitter/PH. Not funny.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Nov 29, 2012 - 01:27am PT
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this thread got weird.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 29, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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with all due respect, i've done silk bannana with piggot countless times and he ratchets the kneebar just like everybody else. to do otherwise would be like climbing mother superior -- without the crack. makes no sense.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 29, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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Does anyone recognize this Woodson problem? Or the person in it?
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 29, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
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Bob, it goes without the kneebar. First few times I did it was with that first kneebar/rest. Never tried doing any kneebars after that first kneebar (didn't occur to me, or I'm not tall enough??) i just underclinged it from there on. It CAN be done! I probably wasted WAY to much time getting to that point, anyway. Plus, I was never really that good of a climber to begin with. SO, if I could do it, I suspect others can/could. The first kneebar doesn't really help much anyway, since the very next move/undercling is the first really hard one. Josh Higgins almost sent it. If you watch the vid, it looks as though he wasted valuable energy trying to get/use additional kneebars (after the first one). I don't think he is from the San Diego area, and probably only tried it that day (him & his buddy). I suspect that if he had returned to try again (or worked on it a few different days) he would have eventually got it, because he came pretty close. And, like I said, I'm sure there are plenty of much harder things being done at Woodson, stuff I sure in hell could never done/do!! But, SB is a great problem, and a good core body workout at the end of the day, if for nothing else!! I just wanted to keep the stoke/interest going, in regards to it!
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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Nov 29, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
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Hi guys, Donny here. Dan and I never really tried to sandbag anybody at woodson. The boulder problems up on that hill were so easy to us that we just figured everyone could do them, Even Henny was able to do some things up there. albeit after we showed him the moves countless times. Poor chicken would try to scratch his way up things........no style at all. I'm not sure if he still climbs........
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Gersh
Trad climber
San Diego, Ca
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Nov 29, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
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REIGN 1, you showed my buddy and I around Woodson back in the late 80's. We were a couple of high school grommets that would often run in to you, Piggot, and Tom L. Also a guy named Todd from A16. You guys gave us the tour of all the classics and then some. I remember learning how to hip belay anchored in to the base of Uncertainty Principle. Thanks for some good times!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 29, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
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IMHO, Silk Bananna is a good, honest, workingman's Woodson 11c.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Nov 29, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
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then what is Jaws? 10a? Because I flashed Jaws in the heat and SB might as well be B4. lol.
p.s.... I'm a weak midget with small hands... I think I answered my own question. Nevermind, carry on!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 29, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
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Jaws vs. Silk Bannana? Apples and oranges. Might as well compare Sherries Crack vs. Generator Crack.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 29, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
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5.11c = 6a = V3
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Nov 29, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
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glad to see that woodson is still folding folks into its warm welcoming embrace
and sb is lite
heh
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Nov 29, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
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np henny....ya see, used to be i would guard unclimbed lines and new areas with great care (hiding trailhead with brush piles, coming and going under cover of darkness, tunnel networks, disguises etc)until i had mopped up all the FAs i (and allenby usually) could manage. After that i would bring in my buddies, like epps, MP, amondovar bros etc to climb the cracks and other undesirable features, THEN leak the location. Now that age has reduced me to a lowly, god forsaken 5.10 (on a good day) climber, my new routes have become trails to new routes, and benevolent humanitarian that i am, i direct those who are able to the potential lines i come across. Last year when i cut a trail network that opened up all kinds of potential on the south slope i blatantly advertised, on this very site, that plums were there for the picking. The response was no response until i dragged horvath down there and stood him in front of what became "flight of the ox". I know a line when i see it, even if i cant crank em like i used to.
So go past the terminator, take the downhill leg and turn left at the big boulder, then head straight for 50 feet to a small boulder, hop over to the next rock, climb to the top and gaze down upon the land o plenty. Thats more info than any woodson local should need...we dont do coordinates in these parts, except to pick the right bandana to match our sox.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Nov 29, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
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yah as far as SB goes, i got a c-note that says i flail like a gut shot wildebeest on it before dropping to the deck and pulling a muscle. Who's in?
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 30, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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bvb - IMHO, Silk Banana is a good, honest working mans .11c! Using your knee/kneebars? Yes! But it's obviously harder if you don't/can't use kneebars.
V0 - 5.10
V1 - 5.10+
V2 - 5.11
V3 - 5.11+
V4 - 5.12-
V5 - 5.12a/b
V6 - 5.12b/c
V7 - 5.12c/d
V8 - 5.13
V9 - 5.13a/b
V10 - 5.13b/c
V11 - 5.13c/d
V12 - 5.14a/b
V13 - 5.14b/c
V14 - 5.14c/d
V15 - 5.15
So, Josh Higgins sends these 5.13's in the Pinnacles, etc., and he can't boulder out a Woodson 5.11c?
EDIT: here is what it boils down to with the kneebars on SB: you have to be very tall! Rick Piggott = @6'6" How tall are you BVB?
bvb - all i'm saying is that it's a LOT harder than 11c if you don't/can't kneebar it. I'm pretty sure Josh Higgins will attest (agree) to this!
Just keeping it real!
:)
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
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Psyched for this weekend! The forecast says cloudy and <70 degrees. PRIME!
Who's gonna be there?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 30, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
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Whatev's ya big fat homo spraylords. Quit trifling a great Woodson classic with your frikkin' penis measuring pissing match.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Nov 30, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
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Ooooh...look at that delicate toe placement! That man has Eldo-prancer written all over him!
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
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and I didn't think it could get worse...
Magus, I won't be making it this weekend man, its raining, have fun if you go!
Rick, I don't think ox has seen a 2nd, but maybe. Some other guys on the hill have tried it, but it hasn't really seen a lot of attention....idk
I cannot do SB, or at least have not done it... haven't tried in a year either. I think its hard. Splitter I have 13 bucks in my wallet, thats all I'm wagering. You seem to be really enjoying writing about your send.
Henny, give me a shout if you make it down here. Ron's directions are good, but if you want a guide and you can't link up with him, I can show you around as well.
Psyched for some RAIN!!
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Nov 30, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
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Juanito said I thought that if I could do routes that mr big time climber couldn't, maybe I had a future in the sport. Since that was back in '85, how did it turn out? Did you have a future in climbing? Just curious.
I saw the same guy do a problem that I had been trying but couldn't do. I didn't realize that had implications about my future.
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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Nov 30, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
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Gersh, thanks for the props. Woodson was a really fun place to climb back then. We always liked showing newbs the classic climbs and boulder problems. Rick showed us the routes that we never knew extisted and more. Those are the days I miss.........
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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Nov 30, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
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Whats all the hoopla about silk banana? Just another woodson classic.
These (hardmen) need to visit the V.P. office and undertow to see what they got. Exit stage left, high on the hog, slap you silly, might give these (hard men) a little workout. There's so many good problems on that hill...........
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Nov 30, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
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yep yep, and if 11c at woodson would be 12b or c at your favorite clip n dangle redpoint-o-rama spurt climbing area, it doesnt mean theres something wrong with the ratings at woodson, it just means youve never seen a real 11c. That sh*t aint supposed to be easy.
On Rick Piggot, that guy was the genuine enchilada. Boulder with him for an hour and you come away with a new definition of strong. He found and climbed the hardest, most classic climbs on the hill, would send anything you took him to, had balls of solid stainless steel, is the most accomplished climber in the history of mt woodson, yet he was never smug or egotistical. A man of few words and mighty deeds who set the woodson standard for climbs, climbing ability and personal class.
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hellcyon
climber
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Nov 30, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
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Hoping to stoke a different kind of fire ....
Most all of my photos up thread are off of this circuit. Sorry for the slow response to some of your questions/emails. I cut most of the trail this past summer. With winter upon us my energies are compelled elsewhere, but perhaps someone else will find some fun along the way...Happy Trails! :)
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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here ya go henny
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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A beautiful shot of Epperson's "Moroccan Menace" no holds, just slap like a maniac
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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need to visit the V.P. office
Agreed. Regardless of what people rate that thing, I believe it was the hardest thing I ever did at Woodson. Throw in that approach and the primeval, remote location, and it's a full-value expedition.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Morracan Menace...One of my fav's BITD
"Masters' of the Universe" area has such a fine concentration of challenging problems!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Ron -
Hahaha, guess I asked for that. Good one.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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EDIT: It might be a troll to begin with, but if you're adding "+" or "-" to your V-scale ratings, you're doing it wrong.
I went up the hill on Saturday, it was a bit wet on the ground but the boulders were dry! Saw a guy teaching his kid to throw rocks off into the bushes. I told him that he might hit a climber if he did that. The wife laughed at him.
I did a few random problems near the summit (the flakey 5.9ish thing on the boulder with the structure on top).
I love the Masters of the Universe area... I tried K.P.'s demise, and GOT SO CLOSE. Smeared and high-stepped my way up, to no avail. I also discovered where "He Man" (mantel problem) is. Gonna work that thing next time, as I love Woodson mantels.
Really psyched to get out there this week again, and of course next weekend!
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Maybe this will get people fired up to try what has to be one of the most badass new problems on the hill. Heres Greg Horvath on his heinous creation, "Flight of the Ox". I think he called it V6, but after bouldering with Greg then watching him send this thing, i think that grade may be a bit modest. I used pics from a previous attempt for two perspectives. FA was on 5/20/11
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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oops, cant forget the top-out shots
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Nice shots Ron! Where the hell is that thing?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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I always considered Silk Banana to be impossible for me (I was right). Luckily, I was fine with that because, well, what else are you gonna do? Having said that, it seems to me that having long legs relative to your height and/or being tall in general is a HUGE advantage on this climb. If you can't get knee locks, good luck. I thinK that RP and BVB have the exact right body types for this climb (me, and say, Gonamok, maybe not so much). Now, of course, I'm impressed with Rick and BVB as climbers regardless - sheesh, they're frigging American climbing legends; HOWEVER, I would be REALLY impressed to see a short guy or a medium guy with short legs do this climb. Who's the shortest guy to do this climb? I'm guessing, no one shorter than 6'2".
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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I'm 6'1"!
Initially, I used the very first "kneebar" (left knee) as a rest. But eventually I didn't resort to it (or any kneebars) just underclings.
edit: like i said, it either didn't occur to me to try and use more kneebars, or I wasn't able to (don't recall).
Greg - nope, on the contrary. i have short legs relative to my height. my inseam is 32"/33"! regardless, my point was that it can be done without resorting to kneebars.
Hey, I'm familiar with how well most of you guys climb[ed]. I probably never got even close to that level. BUT, I spent a lot of time on it (SB) and eventually got it wired. SO, I suspect others could also.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Damn!...I meant 6'2" +/- 1". I'm still in the hunt.
Edit: Actually, Splitter, we haven't considered the second part of the equation - do you have long legs relative to your height? It's like the anti-ape index.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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HOWEVER, I would be REALLY impressed to see a short guy or a medium guy with short legs do this climb. Who's the shortest guy to do this climb? I'm guessing, no one shorter than 6'2".
Dick Cilley, 5' 4" , industry standard for Woodson 11c
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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If Dick's done this, it totally blows my hypothesis (and reduces my batting average on sh#t like this to .090).
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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ok... I made that up..... just sitting here with a rum and juice drink. Your theory is probably still sound. Hi Greg!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Don't mistake me for Rick Piggot, Splitter. If RP was like Jim Bridwell, I'd be like, John Candy.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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So splitter, you climbed alot at woodson in the 80's? If so i probably know you. Im Ron Amick, whats your name?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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here are the trails that access flight of the ox, which is on the south side of split rock. Theres tons of other good problems in that area. Take the well defined trail going uphill (west) from slant crack and you will run into split rock. cant miss it.
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Ron,
As far as I can recall, you and I only had one encounter. It was during the Spring of 1983 and was at Mission Gorge. It was very brief, no introductions or whatever. My partner that day and I were at Lunch Rock and you had just come up the trail by yourself (i think you were alone).
Perhaps you will be able to recall that encounter if i jog your memory some...
Earlier, after we had topped out on the Ramp and were making our way up and over to this face climb on the far left side of the cliff (a 5.9 as I recall, can't remember the name) I noticed this off sized fist crack that was at the far left side of where this small ledge ended (2nd or 3rd tier). It (the fist crack) leaned slightly to the left/diagnaled up to the summit. You had to lean slightly out off the ledge to sink your first fist jam and then it turned to offsized fist as it went over a bulge and then went from hands to fingers/thin fingers. The crux was going through the off sized fist/bulge. A bit intimidating since you were already about 50-60 ft or so off the deck. It quickly turned to no harder then 5.6 to the summit. The guide, at the time, said it (the fists/crux section) was .10b/c, or so the guy I was climbing with told me.
So, I ask him if he wanted to do it again, I had never done it and it looked really clean/splitter and i wanted to try leading it. He said he didn't want to repeat it, and seemed like he was in a hurry to continue on and he did just that. So, I decided to solo it (one of those spur of the moment things). The off sized fist/crux part went real smoothly, but as I got about 3/4 of the way up the 5.6 crack (close to the top) it became really slimy/wet and slippery. It had rained a day or two before. So, I made the decision to down climb the crux, rather than grease off of some wet 5.6 and deck (i figured it would look better in my obit to have bit the bullet on the 5.10 part rather then the 5.6 part, lol).
Anyway, the down climb went smoothly, and we then continued our approach up over the top to the 5.9 route/face climb on the far left side of the cliff. Afterwards we headed back to Lunch Rock and I encountered you as you came up the trail from below.
Like I said, it was a rather brief encounter, you simply asked if I had also soloed the 5.9 face route, and I said no and you continued on (so evidently you saw me solo the fist crack and then downclimb it). We didn't exchange names or anything, although I had already known yours/who you were. That is the only time I recall meeting you. I do remember hereing that you had moved to Northern Calif, sometime after that.
I can't remember the name of that fist crack, perhaps you do. The dood i climbed with that day was some young guy from SDSU that I had just met there that morning, and I never saw or climbed with him again.
My name is John McLean (nobody special)!
edit: BTW, that day, i had just came down from LA for the weekend to visit family, and decided to get a little climbing in at the Gorge also. I didn't really do any climbing at Woodson in the 80's until starting about Spring of '86 which was when I moved back to the San Diego area. So, perhaps you had already left SD for up north by then?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Hey John, for the life of me i cant remember that day at the Gorge, but its cool that our paths crossed way back when, at good ol' Mission Gorge. I never moved to norcal tho, got married in 82 and moved to poway in 83 where ive lived ever since. After 83 i was either climbing at woodson or poking around the back country looking for new stuff when i wasnt out of town. If youre ever down this way gimmie a call and we can meet at woodson.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2012 - 10:56pm PT
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darkmagus- good call on the +'s and -'s
also, forgot to mention it but ya couple weeks back Doug and I were in Masters and cleaned out the landing somewhat on He Man- thing is sick
Greg I like your hypothesis about height and SB- it helps me feel better : )
Nonetheless our crew will probably give it a go this season (and all of us are 5'9" and lower I think) and will post up if we succeed- given how hot a topic it seems to be.
ya Ron its probably a 7, but it has to see a repeat for us to really have any idea.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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What in tarnation is all this fuss over Silk Banana?! It is just another routine problem on the circuit, although on hot/greasy days it was damn near impossible. Not a major event BITD and I can think of at least six people off the top of my head who had it dialed. I think you guys have yourselves all psyched out or something. Just Do It.
'taint no thang.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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You tell 'em bvb.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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B the VB has spoken on the matter of SB. and good thing too, because i couldnt do it, didnt like it, avoided it, derided and ignored it for 25 years. When i said my prayers every night i would ask god to please send an earthquake or mudslide to wipe silk banana off the face of the earth.
If ol boob woulda called it a classic i would have been a sad little sea monkey.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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He Man is yet another Epperson gem.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Ron, didn't "He Man" inspire the naming of the area?
BTW Nice press Greg!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Can we get the conversation back to me please?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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You may be right, rick. That mantle is definately a he-man press, so it makes sense that the rest of the problems would be the masters of the universe, but not sure how it actually went. Just because i named that stuff means im supposed to remember?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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you sure you wanna go there bob-o?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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You guys named it Masters of The Universe after you and Rick took me there on a sandbag misssion and I flashed everything. Jus' saying, Ron-O old buddy.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Yeah right Bob, there's no cracks to speak of so I know yur fulosh*t!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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silky banana is light. fun but light. the hobbit roof of woodson.
never did find death vomit.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Now wait just one minnit godammit Rick. This was at a time when I was doing Lemon Chiffon in tennies, and was hucking laps on Head First In The Bushes. I clearly recall spidering up Slap and Tickle backwards in blown-out Chuck Taylors held together with Duct Tape while simultaneously smoking a fuggle and and stroking a chubbie. You and the Ronster were so awestruck you gave me a beer and called me a God. A GOD.
EDIT: watchit there Kerwin I'm trying to set up a couple of Sandbags here. Oh, wait...
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Ok...You got me!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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You guys named it Masters of The Universe after you and Rick took me there on a sandbag mission and I flashed everything. Jus' saying, Ron-O old buddy.
Wait... wait... wait... oh, I think I get it. Let me see if I have this straight. Because you (the 'merican legend) flashed all the sandbags at the new area everyone was so awestruck and overwhelmingly impressed that they felt compelled to name the entire area in commemoration of a most masterful feat that is likely to never be witnessed again in our lifetime, or for that matter, will never be witnessed again in the known universe throughout the endless ages. So therefore, Masters of the Universe really equals "bvb - master of the universe".
Is that what you were trying to say?
Except, why is it plural? Shouldn't it be Master of the Universe instead? Is there more than one of you? Yikes.
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Sounds like this legend dood must have been something to behold, bitd, eh?
I mean, who else besides RP has pulled off the 'Undertow' roof?
BVB, soloing the Undertow...
here's Rick Piggott leading it...
Actually, I do recall him wandering up the road once while we had a tr strung up on MS and I obliged his request for a belay on it. Took him all of about 1 minute (or less) to scoot his self up it. AND, I also recall that I couldn't stop squinting, like I was being blinded by some powerful light or as if the suns rays were bouncing off of some metallic object or something. EXCEPT it was an overcast day, and once he left, so did it!
WOW!!
edit: twas a humbling experience ... the doods a LEGEND, fer sure!!
btw, i think Chris Lindner also lead Undertow!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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This thread just keeps getting better and better, doesn't it? It occurs to me that I truly am a National Treasure, a gift to the climbing world, and a worthy mentor to Ron and Rick. God knows where those two kids would have wound up without me.
Darrel -- I think that the "s" in Master[s] is an old typo that keeps getting rolled over into the new guides.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Ah, that would explain it.
Greg, please make note of the name correction for any future guide publications. We most certainly need to give credit where credit is due.
Glad we cleared that up.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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The true account of "Ron n Bob visit the masters of the universe"
Bobbums was living out of town at the time, so when he calls and tells me hes in town and we should meet up at woodson, i was on it, because humiliating ol booboo on the boulders was about my favorite thing to do back then.
I took him to the masters where we warmed up on kp's demise, and yes, he sent it first try (after watching me float up it like some kinda angel from god), so we jumped over to moroccan menace. After i blazed it without even making a face it was bobs turn. Bob is game if nothing else, and although it wasnt real pretty, he managed to claw his way up it first try. Sensing it was time to remind bbob who was mr ron diego and who was the ex-local/small time clown, i moved us over to he man which i demonstrated right handed, lefthanded and righthanded again, all from a hanging start, and bob, bless his heart, finally managed to hang from the holds after much coaching, but could not generate the slightest upward motion from there.
I thought we needed another mantle, so we went to a nearby unnamed 11+ shelf. This thing is classic because its slick as glass, and is a pure static press from sloping feet, and the best part is that once you start the press you have to finish it or take a real bad fall because you cant see your feet to back off it. I made it look like 5.9 as usual, and bob gets on it, starts the press and STALLS. Immediately seeing that there is no retreat, bob puts everything hes got into it and slowly starts to press it out. The arm is shaking, face changing colors, eyes bulging, veins popping in his forehead as bob kicks it into survival mode and ever so slowly continues to rise. Im treated to a hilarious 3 full minutes of bob ever so slowly pressing the mantle in stark terror before he finally locks out and finishes. Bob comes down looking like he just got spit out of a lawnmower, and im on my hands and knees doubled over with laughter, slapping the ground with tears pouring down my face. Oh my god it was so good, and kudos to bob for cranking it.
After a beer we went to the B1 dyno problem, which i did a couple times, but bob couldnt quite snag that first hold. The rest of the day was spent in similar fashion, and turned out to be one fun day bouldering.
You better not lie and say this didnt happen bob, because jesus will kill you for lying.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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couldn't just lurk anymore...
thaat was hillarious!
great story.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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And indeed, that was pretty much how it went. Let's just say that mantles have never been, uh, my thing. In my heart of hearts I believe God put mantles in our world in retaliation for some major transgression that I must have committed in some past life, giving Rick Ron and Epi a means by which to mercilessly torture me. It just ain't right.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Classic cartoons. The mantle you're referring to goes by the name Blind Faith, correct? That thing looks totally messed up. Lean out over 15ft of air onto a glassy dike and commit to what looks like a difficult press? ....psycho. And the cordless lap on Undertow is damn impressive.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Remarkable likenesses...i have the original colored pencil (or crayon) rendering preserved in the amick archives.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Doug, Blind faith is actually a different (and much scarier) mantle problem, as you can see from the map. The mantle in my story was Epis and he never named it. Blind Faith was something I found.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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OK. So what's the story with Blind Faith?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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lol, love this thread's turn for the best of the best!
And not to thread drift too much, but what have you guys done in Joshua Tree? Tis the season...
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Doug, you need to be a little more careful. bvb's head is going to swell up so far it'll explode if you keep saying things like "cordless lap on Undertow is damn impressive".
Not that I would know whether it was or not. And no, you're not going to drag me down there to find out.
What's with all this non-sense about mantles? bvb has it right.
Nice likeness of Homie.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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As you know Doug, San Diego county climbing is all about small stuff and short problems, so when youre clambering around looking for new routes you come across lots and lots of small rounded boulders. We figured those needed to be climbed too, and mantles were the way to do it. The necessity of knowing how to mantle became an obsession with mantling every hump and nubbin in sight, and most of the SD locals that were climbing hard in the 80s (with the exception of bvb and a few other holdouts)were strong mantle climbers. We honed our mantling skills on Pink Boulder in Mission Gorge, a big water polished pebble lying in the SD river bottom that required explosive power coupled with precise technique, and had an endless variety of shelves, depressions, scoops and humps along its perimeter.
In time we werent just mantling all we saw, we were seeking classic obtuse features on which to test our skills. The best mantles look impossible and feel ridiculous, but have barely enough combined curvature of the surfaces to accomodate the components of a mantle; the pop, the turn, the lock, the press and the lockout. Blind Faith was one of those that you have to put your hands on to appreciate, and it wasnt until I got up there and felt it that i realized what a classic it was. The problem is that its really insecure and over a death fall. One day i was up on the hill alone, having one of those days where i felt like i could climb anything, so i got up there, took a deep breath and cranked it. Havent heard of any repeats, but that doesnt mean it hasnt been done.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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What are some of your fave mantels (mantles? Howie Mandel's?) at Woodson? I've only done a small handful... would like to check out more! reasonable for soloing or with a pad, hehe.... i ain't got friends :(
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Doug, you need to be a little more careful. bvb's head is going to swell up so far it'll explode
Sorry Darrel, but clearly that horse left the barn a very long time ago.
On another note, there is some history to my profound and enduring aversion to mantles. Nearly 40 years ago me and Watusi and Off White were doing Nutcracker for the first time. Our rack consisted of Eiger Ovals and first-generation Chouinard stoppers and hexes. Dicey rack by todays standards, or any standards for that matter. Mind you, I was skinny as f*#k, had been climbing for about a week, barely knew how to tie a figure 8, and could do maybe two pullups.
Naturally, I get the Mantle pitch.
It was an epic struggle over a sure-fire ankle breaker fall -- assuming that manky #6 stopper held -- that has left me traumatized to this day. Over the decades I've tried therapy, meditation, acid, alcoholism, chakra realignment, body cleanses, fasting, enemas, all to no avail. I've simply learned to accept that in this one small, insignificant regard, I am just very slightly less skilled than old Ron-O.
Convinced he was about to document my death, Off White captured this evocative image of grace under pressure:
Before we draw the curtain of charity across this entire scene, let us note for the record I've got one nut in -- that suspect, rotating #6 stopper -- and if it goes, I'm in for one hell of a whopper. Of such moments great memories are made.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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g-davis, if its mantles you want, go to santee boulders and you will find them everywhere. On woodson, the chopper mantles and kamikaze mantle are on the same boulder just downhill from the jump problem. To the right of the jump is a low boulder called the soloflex, that is a great mantleshelf. To the left of the jump is a tiny boulder with a white spot painted on it - the curtis mantle. Theres more but that should keep you busy for awhile.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Thanks! I look forward to it :)
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Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
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The "Mexican Dinner Mantle" right off the road near Digit's Delight is one of my favorites. The soloflex mantles are definitely a must do as well.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Anyone headed out there today?
I'm going to explore the summit area a bit and find some boulders that I've never checked out.
"Little Horn" is a really cool mantel problem, recently de-forested and readily accessible.
Psyched for another weekend at Woodson!!
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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I second Mark's comments. Of the ones I've done, those two are my favorites.
Darkmagus, too bad I didn't see your comment earlier. What did you get on?
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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...the components of a mantle; the pop, the turn, the lock, the press and the lockout.
What about "the hang?"
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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The necessity of knowing how to mantle
No such necessity ever has, currently does, or for that matter, ever will exist.
Fact.
What's up with the attraction to problems that take minutes or more to gain a couple of inches in upward progress?
bvb, how is it that you have pictures of everything you've ever done? It doesn't seem to matter what the topic, route, or problem, but that you seem to have pictures of it. Best I can do is hope I can even remember if I did something or not, whereas you simply trot out the pictures. Dang.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Doug, were you there yesterday? I saw someone on top of the Masters of the Universe boulders and thought, there's someone that knows "the spots"!
I did a "high volume" day of mantels and face climbs. A couple of random ones at the summit, did the "clicker mantel" (aka mexican dinner mantel), love that one. Then I went to the boulders near jaws, got on a cool arête problem, and did that knob problem as well. I love that little spot, I never see anyone there, but saw a piece of carpet indicating the presence of others! I got on those face climbs on the "I would die for you" boulder, but didn't even try that one. Then did the soloflex mantels, chopper mantels (no kamikaze mantel yet), considered taking a rip on "he man" but had no strength left by the time I got back down the hill.
I'm going to go back this week maybe a couple of times to put in work on some stuff. Let me know when you go next time and we can link up!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Bob, it still makes me smile to hear someone talk about a particular move on a climb, maybe even on the other side of the world, and to be able to intimately relate to it because you've done that "move" as well! I'm referring to the Nutcracker and the "#6" stopper below the mantle. I can clearly recall, back in September 1983, standing below the mantle head wall and placing a #7 stopper in that seam, then moving up to the slopping shelf and thinking, "This is going to be bad if I fall off this sucker," having to move up and back down about three times before committing and getting that thing. Good stuff.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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You can't forget about the 5.7 mantle on the Practice Boulder on the right...probably one of the first mantles on Woodson that I did.
Speaking of Santee Mantles, this sequence of Greg Epperson on Eppi's Lunge, taken by deepnet, still leaves me awestruck...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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bvb, how is it that you have pictures of everything you've ever done?
Geeze Henny, with all the smoke I blow around here who would believe a word I said if I couldn't yard out a photo once in a while?!
Personally, I attribute the vast archive documenting my extraordinary career -- one widely regarded, in fact, as legendary (although you probably already knew that) -- to my naked charisma, my mindbending level of achievement, my glassine photogenic aura, and my pure animal magnetism. Like Paris Hilton, the camera loves me, and I oblige.
However, on mature reflection, it probably has to do with the sheer volume of inveterate shutterbugs to emerge from the greater Scumbag family and 'Dago in general. Off White is a primary culprit, with Epi and Brian Bailey and a host of other nascent paparazzi circling my outer perimeter. The glare of stardom was simultanously harsh, warm, and demanding. It's a wonder I've emerged with my demure humility and down-to-earth, man-of-the-people persona intact. Unpretentious, shy, reserved: these are the characteristics I most cherish in myself.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 10, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Dec 10, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
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BVB.....you just haven't found the right enema....:)
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:47am PT
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It could have been me Darkmagus. I won't make it out there this week, but will probably be there on Saturday. Maybe Sunday as well.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
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So Ron, has anyone else done Blind Faith? What other mantels were you hiking at the time- the curt? Rick did you ever do it?
After showing it to Doug, we both agree, it's one of the harder, if not hardest pure mantels on the hill... at least this it looks that way...and its terrifying in a ridiculous way.
(see the crashpad below for reference to the length of the fall)
had a sweet day saturday with Doug and Phil, Ya Magus you that was probably us up there at Masters.
that B1 dyno is hard! Also got around and did greg's problems.anyone know what the original lines were on this? I bailed right to the blunt arete on the first go, but then we TR'ed going straight up as well which was sweet.
Finished off the day down at left and right hand rule, cleaned off a LOT of brush and between our crew managed to send both lines.
Here's Phil on the rad 5.7 arete you can use to approach the anchors for right hand rule
Also, anyone know what animal makes this?
As Doug and I were hiking out last time, we saw two eyes probably a hundred yards away blinking back at our headlamps. Hoping it wasn't a cougar we hightailed to the road, but we've been seeing this scat ALL over the hill lately and was guessing it may be the same animal.
Lastly,
Anyone know what this is? I think I posted this already but no one responded. Doug snapped this rad shot last season.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 12, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
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That totally was you guys! I inferred that it had to be some well-skilled individuals if you were doing just about any climb in that area. I was SO close to stopping by and saying hi but was trying to stay psyched for the hike, to make it to the top and then start climbing. Should have done it!! I would have asked for a spot on Morrocan Menace ;)
Let's try to coordinate a session soon! I'll definitely be there Sunday all day (starting early).
Edit: I also found out where "Blind Faith" is, it definitely looked HARD, but then I touched the rock, it's SUPER smooth, I just shook my head and said a few curse words...
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Dec 12, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 12, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
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wtf homeboy is WAY off-sequence in that photo you guys trippin' on windowpane or WHUT not sure we got enough chalk on that motherf*#ker yo.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Dec 12, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
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Blind Faith...Rick did you ever do it?
Greg, I'm not sure. Ron would prolly know.
Doesn't look familiar although my memory is not that great these days.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 12, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
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One good tranny posedown deserves another:
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 12, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
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Off sequence for sure Bob, but burly nonetheless! I remember spending a sesh with the Hatchet brothers who were seeing how many different sequences they could come with, RH first, LH first, thumbs up, thumbs down, etc. Those kids were animals.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 12, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
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Anyone got a photo of the Train with the thin tree that use to grow up close to the start? I used that thing too many times before I was "hard" enough to pull through on that thing.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Dec 13, 2012 - 01:28am PT
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Rick used to crank the curtis mantle all the time but i couldnt touch that thing. I havent heard of any repeats of blind faith, i may have been on drugs when i did it.
Ah the hang, yes well that is expected. No impetus from the ground allowed. When we couldnt hang we would do "bathroom scale" starts. Meaning there should be no movement of the needle if you started the mantle while you were standing on a scale. Purity, perfection...these things are the stuff of mantles.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Dec 13, 2012 - 01:36am PT
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Henny, mantles are very necessary. They provide essential nutrients and give one vigor and fortitude. A mantle man is a man of integrity. The ancient romans called mantles the "staff of life". Moses cranked every mantle he encountered while leading the jews to the holy land. Jesus said "blessed art thou who mantle, for they are god's favored children". This country was founded on the principle of life, liberty and heinous presses. Do i need to tell you everything?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 13, 2012 - 01:41am PT
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BITD Sean used to lurk by that thing, hanging out on the road, waiting to sandbag unsuspecting n00bs. It was a riot. True story.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 13, 2012 - 01:47am PT
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Purity, perfection...these things are the stuff of mantles.
Pointlessness, laughable brevity, the quest of the addled and those with questionable judgement, an emphasis on neck-up imprudence, the penultimate "why bother" of bouldering: these things are the stuff of, er, mantles.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Dec 13, 2012 - 02:56am PT
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Do i need to tell you everything?
It would appear that way. I keep fogetting how necessary mantles are, essential even.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Dec 14, 2012 - 02:54am PT
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bob, bob, bob.....<shakes head sadly> I taught you better than that. I told you that climbing cracks would lead to no good, and now look at you, saying bad things about mantles! I am sending you a coupon that i clipped for one electroshock therapy session at any psych ward on the attached list. Go there and tell them that you have bad thoughts about mantles and they will know what to do. Yer uncle ron is looking out for ya, bunkie.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Dec 14, 2012 - 02:55am PT
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and why cant you be a nice young man like henny?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 14, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
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Not at Woodson, but nearby on the same stone. Has anyone else out there done County Planning Commission? If it were actually at Woodson it'd be an absolute must-do tick.
Ron, Henny sent me to a 12-week finishing school a while back, but the elocution drills and napkin-folding lessons simply did not stick.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2012 - 12:02am PT
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the bathroom scale is hilarious!
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2012 - 12:03am PT
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someday I hope to be a man of integrity
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Dec 15, 2012 - 01:00am PT
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(sigh) I was sure that the 12 week course would make bvb a man of impeccable manners such as I am. Alas, twas not to be.
I'm stuck in OC over the weekend, maybe I'll wander by Rubidoux for some exercise. I'm going to look for an easy FA to do, and I think Welcome to Woodson would be an appropriate name. No doubt it'll be a mantle.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Dec 15, 2012 - 11:39am PT
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You guys are cracking me up
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 16, 2012 - 12:20am PT
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Who were you with Rick when I ran into you at Santee that day at the Carousel Boulder, was it you Ron? I was told of the "scale start" then as well...couldn't help but to shake my head and recall the seriousness that we kids were held to back then when we'd learn off such antics. Thank God for that piece of carpet, as small as it was, for it was like "sacred ground" where one could make peace with God and maybe even have a devotion, or say a silent prayer, similar to what a ballplayer would do before stepping up to the plate, brushing his cleats off, then going through a pre-pitch ritual before turning to the ump (belayer) to signal his readiness. We'd chalk our hands, simultaneously looking up to plan the moves ahead, with hopes of flashing the route, for if you took any tension or came off, you'd feel yourself nearly falling back to the ground, as the belayer knew it was his role to get you back to terra firma so the next guy could get his chance. Oh, and God forbid that you said a word while someone else was climbing, for you might get a finger in your chest saying, "You're next!" Good times though.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Dec 16, 2012 - 04:55pm PT
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"bathroom scale" starts.
Yeah Me n Ron did a lot of short hard stuff BITD.
We concieved and coined that term to make those problems more "sporty".
Now don't get me wrong, all of us within our group felt that, dynamic starts on certain problems was cheating.
BTW if you heard it at Santee, and I was there, you heard it from me.
We were climbing w/ Beehay that day :)
yeah...I brought out a young talent with me that day. Jon Buellar
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Dec 17, 2012 - 01:32am PT
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Gary, Ive climbed on the carousel approx. 3,000 times, (including a 25 lap circumnavigation of the boulder with pre placed beers on top to keep the strength up)and they kind of run together in my mind these days. I know i never used a rope on it, i free soloed all 10 feet of it every single time.
Bob - at least you learned to curtsey at the Hensel finishing school for wayward youths, so it wasnt a complete waste of time. Henny, were you responsible for putting bob in girls clothes to climb? He came back wearing those lycra ballet tights, and the first time i had to spot him i about got the dry heaves cuz i was bein forced to stare at his private weener parts which were pokin thru those stretchy pants he was wearing. If it was me id take some of those male enhancement pills before i put that thing on display, as it was no larger than one of those cocktail weenies they serve at the bar during happy hour,you know, the ones with a toothpick stuck in em.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Dec 17, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
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cocktail weenie BUMP!
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 17, 2012 - 08:32pm PT
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Anyone?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Dec 17, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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still injured. tried to climb at jt this week, still not healthy.
im sure it was warmer at woodson.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 17, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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I'm stumped Johann. But judging by the two monster oaks in the background, I'll guess low on the hill over towards or past Y-crack?
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Dec 17, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
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Johannsolo, It looks to me that "secret" location you took me n Ron to last year. You placed two TR bolts that day. The one pictured was the "left" of the two problems. Both in the .12 range. I remember "hip beleying " you on those. At the time you didn't name them yet.
???
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Dec 17, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
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Greg's Face or whatever that thing is on the way down to Hard as Nails. Maybe. Maybe not. Obviously I don't know.
However, one thing is crystal clear and totally obvious. It must be incredibly difficult to be an American Legend. People are constantly trying to knock you off the pedestal and drag you down into the muck and mire. When they can't produce a list of equally impressive feats they instead resort to the political tactic of diverting attention from their own lack of substance by ruthlessly ridiculing, mocking, and belittling the awesome accomplishments of those who have ascended to the heights. Achieving swoleness does seem to have a dark side. Those who naturally rise to such a rarified level of excellence must continually fight off the heel biting, sniping, petty, and even, dare I say, childish attacks from the peanut gallery.
We can only imagine how difficult it must be. I don't know how he manages.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Dec 18, 2012 - 02:55am PT
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And Im his PR man! I can only imagine what slander his detractors come up with....
so henny i should take that as a no?
Did people actually believe that there would be no long term fallout from fashions that put your johnson on full public display? What about my welfare?! Im scarred for life! PTSD, to go along with my ADD, OCD, BFD and BVDs
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Dec 18, 2012 - 10:56am PT
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bvb has detractors? Say it isn't so. Why would someone want to do that? Oh, right...
Yes Ron, in this particular case you do have a valid point and I can fully understand why your welfare would trump. Thankfully I don't seem to recall suffering that trauma. Either that or I've managed to erase the memory over time.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 18, 2012 - 11:15am PT
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Admit it Ron. You were simply jealous because this picture of sporting manhood so outSWOLED your beer-belly visage. The massive guns, the eye-popping chest, the delta force lats, the slim, svelt hips, the turbodiesel legs, the porn-star 'stach: sh#t, I had to ward off the climbing betties with a bat! Henny, you are spot-on. It's been a burden, but I do it all for my fans.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Dec 18, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
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You look like a damn superhero!
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 18, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
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how about now?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Dec 18, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
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Alright, i admit it bob, climbing in the shadow of your magnificence destroyed my self esteem and reduced me to a bitter piece of flotsam, blasted into insignificance by the prop wash of your star power and forced to feed on the crumbs you left behind in your march to immortality and glory. Every day i ask god why oh why cant i be Bob Van Belle? Why am i doomed to play a wretched bit part in the technicolor feature film extravaganza that is THE BOB VAN BELLE STORY??
Ive tried so hard to be like you (except without wearing lycra), but have failed miserably. Why did i have to be twice as strong and three times as talented?? Its not fair.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
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What are you calling that area just above the pond John? That's the face that rises up above that "comma" looking boulder with the excellent arching seam on it. Whatcha callin' that face?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Dec 22, 2012 - 02:38am PT
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I believe that area is called "sherwood forest"
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 23, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
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yup, that rings a bell Ron.
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2012 - 12:30am PT
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well according to posts made last year, that should be the little john boulder,
John did you ever give the routes themselves names or just the boulder?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 24, 2012 - 12:31am PT
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All this thread needs is donini.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 24, 2012 - 01:16am PT
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Donini?! Please God no.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 24, 2012 - 01:22am PT
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It could use a pretty woman though, to soften things up.
Hey, I've loved lurking on this thread.
Y'all have a mighty fine area down there.
I've visited a number of times, sticking to easy-to-find classics, never getting a locals tour.
Keep on keepin on granite loving bros.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 24, 2012 - 03:02am PT
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I vote we make the Woman In Black Lingerie the Mount Woodson Pin-up Girl of 2012.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Dec 24, 2012 - 10:10am PT
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^^^^ Should be a 50-year old from New Delhi, if I've noticed anything while up there.
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matisse
climber
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Dec 24, 2012 - 12:57pm PT
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Woman In Black Lingerie the Mount Woodson Pin-up Girl of 2012 she's cute an all but could we at least have one with real tits? sigh.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Dec 27, 2012 - 06:26pm PT
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I am able to overlook said physical enhancements because i love her for her mind.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 27, 2012 - 07:26pm PT
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Yes. She's got big...brains.
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hellcyon
climber
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Dec 27, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
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Perhaps she can help me with this project...
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 27, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
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Start with wearing climbing shoes.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 27, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
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Really good conditions today. Almost no one else on the mountain, the way I like it. Sent a couple of my projects.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 27, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
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Dab. Totally invalid without pics, Johann!
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 27, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
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This is the first one. Worked on it for a couple of seasons. Not sure if it has been done but assume so. Anyone? On the road.
Edited the photo
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 27, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
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This is the other one that I put a bolt on top. Perfect Woodson granite face. 5.12 fer sure. I call this area the hippy cave area.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 28, 2012 - 01:04am PT
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Those both look worthy. I think people may have fingered that first one, but doubt I anyone ever did it. Is it literally on the asphalt?
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 28, 2012 - 03:41am PT
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Blasted boulder #2.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 28, 2012 - 04:48am PT
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Right. Dinkyblackknobs. I think it got tried a lot but I never saw anyone even get close. A good problem starts in the left side of the blast zone and exits out onto that face via a big flat black knob. Chic and swank.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Dec 28, 2012 - 10:41am PT
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huh, i've always walked past that black knob on the blasted boulder #2 and assumed it was like 5.10 something... whoops!
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Dec 28, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
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Johnny, i wish i would have known you were on the hill today, i was low on the south side extending my trail. Ive hit a boulder patch that not only has potential, its surprisingly navigable around and between the boulders, which you wouldnt expect in the location. The heinous potato is on the way out there. Give me a ring next time youre headed out.25 ft tall bombay horror show i found today. its gonna be hard.woodson continues to surprise me. Heres a little clearing in the midst of deep brush that is flat and clear enough to make a great tent site.I like it just fine way out in the bush.
John - on that blasted boulder knob problem, me, rick, greg, MP et. al. have put in some time on that thing bitd. Greg came closest to sending when he manteled the knob and locked out, but nowhere to go from there. As far as i know its one of those long standing problems thats still standing.
That face by the hippy cave is clean as a whistle, and after watching you on it and the vision, id guess its hard 5.12. Did you get the rp and does it have a name yet?
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 29, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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Calling the right one outside the hippy cave the Patchouli face. Did it with about 10 feet of slack on my micro-trax. For the knob problem, I started with my left hand on the knob off of a pad.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 29, 2012 - 12:44am PT
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Out in JT but planning on Woodson the 31st and the 1st.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 31, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
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That "pinup " gal looks like my daughter!...who, btw, just made me a grandad about four months ago.
...anyhow, I think that problem that exits out left from the blasted section is a classic Bob, with a nice runout to the top on knobs... 10b is what I always called it. Johnny and I futilely blew out our fingertips on that heinous face in the shade one day. Growing up, rumor had it that Bachar may have done that...but more than likely just that, a rumor.
An update on the rehab from my C6-7 discectomy:
The neurosurgeon cleared me "back to normal activity as tolerated" about a month ago, and its been pretty much been that, "normal" with a few new kinks to deal with. One thing that has been quite humbling is the strength in my right tricep which went from 100% to about 10%! Granted, I've been literally sedentary for past year, but I use to be a (30) push-up kinda guy, but I could barely do (3) when I got back down on my face! I'm back up to twelve now so things are looking up.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 31, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
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Indeed Gary 'tis a fine problem. Was one of those things you always had to tick while walking by, unless you were in a hurry. 10b or c sounds about right, depending on shoes and psych.
You're a grandfather?! Man you are SO OLD. Time to take up slabbin'.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Sep 24, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
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Sent a couple of my projects. (...) This is the first one. Worked on it for a couple of seasons. To me, something so blank like that is the most classic bouldering.
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