Woodson 2012

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Juanito

Social climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 28, 2012 - 01:36am PT
Anyone remember the Bouldering Comp back in '85? Kauk walked away with the win. Who else was there? I remember Christian Griffith came out from Colorado along with some other guys. I remember seeing Neil Cannon (I think?) flailing on some right leaning 12+ diagonal crack right off the road (Starving in Stereo?). There were two comps running simultaneously. One was a points comp and the other an elimination event. I think I still have one of the T-shirts. I entered both comps that day.

That day was the turning point in my climbing career. I remember getting on a route that Griffith couldn't get off the ground on and fired it. I thought that if I could do routes that mr big time climber couldn't, maybe I had a future in the sport.
Juanito

Social climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 28, 2012 - 01:38am PT
I always use to run into two guys there. Was it Dan and Donny? This was in the late eighties through the nineties. Those guys used to love to sandbag me - trouble was I'd usually end up flashing their routes. Good times...

gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Nov 28, 2012 - 01:53am PT
Ok first some background. Greg (Epperson) wasnt big on naming stuff bitd. If it wasnt some classic testpiece like syncopation he wouldnt give it a name. I guess you can do that when you put up as many classics as he has. So he would take me to some new problem that i thought was 5 star and when i asked what he named it he would go "i dont know, you name it". Greg found the masters area and i named it. He did the FA of morroccan menace and i did the repeat and gave it that name because greg was born in morocco. So when he told me about the problem on the little slab to the left, i did the repeat and called it slap and tickle because he never named little things like that, and thats how it went on my topos.

As it turned out, greg did have a name for it, because i guess he found it with KP, master of thin face, and kevin struck out, so he called it KPs demise. Two names for the same line. I corrected it on later topos, but in the meantime a variation was done going straight up out of the scoop, so now the two names are used for the 2 problems on the slab. The original line is to the left, frictioning up to shallow fingertip pods, so that should be called kps demise.
.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Nov 28, 2012 - 01:59am PT
Juanito, that problem cannon (and everyone else) flailed on is a kevin powell sandbag called 5.10A on the outside. I competed in it and covered it for rock and ice magazine. My account was titled "championship bouldering", i forget which issue it was in. Rick Piggot and Carmel Schimmel ran that one and Kauk took 1st n the masters division. That shot of MP with the number on his arm was taken by me at that contest.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Nov 28, 2012 - 02:18am PT
ok last post for today. Made my first excursion up the hill this season, and went to the far end of the pipeline trail. If you know the pipeline trail you know that its wide open a hundred yards or more then the brush closes back in and the trail jogs uphill thru thick brush to the terminator. Past the terminator the trail goes thru even thicker brush, with a leg that turns uphill and connects to the playground, and a leg that continues due west thru some hellish brush. I took epps and horvath to the end of that trail when we had the last woodson get together that nobody came to.

Today i went to the trail end again and broke thru maybe 50 feet of brush to reach a new boulder, and from the top of that boulder EUREKA! The pipeline trail breaks out again, and there is smooth sailing heading west through a bunch of virgin boulders. What a find! Where i thought would be the same sapling sized, 7-8 foot tall brush that i had been cutting thru, making 20-30 feet a day, i found an avenue that needs no clearing at all. How far the break continues remains to be seen as darkness prevented further exploration. Greg, DUDE this is epic.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Nov 28, 2012 - 02:34am PT
because greg was born in morocco
Is that fact or fiction?

KP's Demise. Hmmm, well, we'll just have to see if we can't rustle the little imp up and see if he has anything to say in his defense. It's sort of hard to believe that story. Powell failing on a slab problem, at Woodson, of all places.

Not really a quiz per say, but I did come across this picture recently and there are a couple of people who should know what it is. We'll see.

Credit: henny

Gonna be time for the 2013 thread pretty soon. Better get those last problems of 2012 wrapped up.
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Nov 28, 2012 - 11:28am PT
Is that fact or fiction?

I've heard the same thing
henny

Social climber
The Past
Nov 28, 2012 - 11:54am PT
I always use to run into two guys there. Was it Dan and Donny? This was in the late eighties through the nineties. Those guys used to love to sandbag me - trouble was I'd usually end up flashing their routes. Good times...

I'm sure it was those knuckleheads. Too bad they never really figured out the art of sandbagging. Can't say nobody tried to teach them, they probably just needed a few more lessons. Yeap, good times.
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 28, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
Thanks for the history on Morroccan Menace and KP's Demise! I always wondered how they got their names.

I've been getting out there a bunch lately and doing mini "clean up jobs" around some of the roadside problems. I cleaned out the area around Little Horn, got rid of some annoying branches, cleaned up the problem (and then sent it). Super classic! My next project is to unearth "Chip Mantel" on the Top Secret File boulder. Cleaning up that brush would allow the problem to be climbed, I wonder how long it's been since it's seen an ascent?
Horvath

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
Ron, great story about KP's and Slap and Tickle.

I will say though, having climbed both routes fairly recently. Slap and tickle is a far more fitting name for the route on the left due to the nature of the climbing. Its 5.11ish and there's slapping involved/and one might even say some tickling.

The line on the right is much much harder. Not to question your memory, though maybe I should : ) but it seems far more likely that IF Powell couldn't climb one of the lines, it was the right one.

anywhoo, I'm healing a torn ligament right now, but if splitter takes up my offer I'll be on the hill this weekend. I might be up there regardless, and I'll head downhill and take a look at the new stuff- also don't talk about it on the thread Ron- otherwise the masses will go down there and steal all the FIRST ASCENTS!!!!

Darkmagus- good on you man! as for chip mantel I doubt it has been climbed in a while, though I'm not sure if Mark and Doug go up that route or 15 pointer to set up the top rope for top secret file. Either way it gets little attention. Good luck man, oftentimes the crux of the problem is figuring out exactly where on the boulder it is.
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 28, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
I'm planning on heading up there this weekend, maybe both Saturday and Sunday. I'd be psyched to meet up with some ST people!
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
Looks like the Vision boulder Henny?
I was down there two weekends ago and no Splitter on SB. I did do MM and SAT both first try. The right one is slightly harder (for me and Woodward when he was there). We also cleaned up (loose blocks) the blasted boulder just before Hamburger crack (one bolt on top) for a couple of good problems (or TR's). The Season is just starting up down there but I have a few small things to get done up at Suicide. See ya'll down there soon enough and look out, I'm cranking.
The legend
The legend
Credit: Johannsolo
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:56pm PT
Horvath - btw Splitter - I'll give you ten bucks if you can send Silk Banana this weekend. ... I'm healing a torn ligament right now.
lol!
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 28, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
Johannsolo - SB is only V5 or so. Almost got it today. Next time fer sure.
So, tell me, how did it go, bro? (i figure ya sent it by now since that ^^ was two weeks or so ago)! Piece of cake, eh? Did ya take pics? Or perhaps a vid (like the Pullharder crew)?
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 28, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
Was there first thing this morning (worked at Nomad at 10AM), witnessing first light up by the baby robbins circuit as the cloud cover recedes and reveals little islands made out of hills... one of the cooler experiences you can have on a ho-hum office day.



deepnet

Boulder climber
San Diego
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
hey Greg, Has anyboby done a 2nd on "Flight of the Ox" yet?
Pretty fuggin' burley I can only assume!
henny

Social climber
The Past
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:35pm PT
Johann - yeah. Looking down Night Vision.

Egads, looking at that picture of JW makes my eyes hurt. First, talk of KP, then a picture of JW. It's getting brutal around here.

Ron, please provide me with explicit directions, exact coordinates, and a detailed list of which of the new boulders appear to have the best potential as well as any details regarding specific lines scoped. Thanks in advance.
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 28, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
i recall Dan & Donny, cool doods, imo! Donny use tto quit climbing and focus on golf every once in a while. He always came crawling back to Woodson, though! Dan's wife use to boulder/climb with Lindner's wife, as i recall! They were also good friends with Rick Piggott! Cool peeps & excellent climbers, btw!

Donny - black hair (lean/good strength > weight ratio)!

Dan - blond hair (buffed out/prollie cudda kicked my ass, so i was REAL nice to him, lol)!
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 28, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
Johannsolo - Take your BS elsewhere Splitshitter/PH! Not funny.
Uhm, you did just make a post in regards to me up thread, bro!...
Johannsolo - I was just down there last weekend and no Splitter.
So I responded (otherwise i had no intentions of posting on this thread).

AND, once again, I'm only doing this out of respect for the FA & SA (Piggott & Long)! I here all this sh#t about it is ONLY V-whatever!

Other than that, I have a lot of respect for you guys, b'cuz yer keeping Woodson alive and in the picture (so to speak)! KUDOS!!
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Nov 28, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
Take your BS elsewhere. Splitshitter/PH. Not funny.
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