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splitter
Trad climber
da'Raven / Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 16, 2012 - 01:56am PT
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Ken - Try and be more like Keith Brueckner. I have run into Keith (much respect) many times (in the 70's/80's) and we are much alike in person (quiet, mellow, etc).
You got it wrong. I could care less what people think of me. What I did or didn't do. Spraying about some measly boulder problem does nothing for my ego, if that is what you are reffering to.
I posted one simply f'n thing, climbing related, and no one even comments! This place is a f*#kin joke at times. A dear brother dies nd we (myself included) spend 99% of our time arguing about "LITTLE DICKS & BIG GUNS" and a couple dozen other trivial & mundane things.
So, after my first post here and no one answers, i decided to shove it in your faces! So what! Get over it!
You don't have to do sh#t. Just watch me send or flail, and come up with some bucks. I was simply gonna take a vid of my sorry ass attempting to send it again, after all these years. Because i did say (on Donini's thread about TR's) that i was going to do one. But i decided to make it a little more interesting. maybe get some peeps interested in coming down to Woodson this winter, eh?
Maybe we could set up another Woodson gathering and do it then.
Anyway, I get the hint ... I'll chill ...!
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splitter
Trad climber
da'Raven / Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 16, 2012 - 02:00am PT
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Johannsolo - Game on. GREAT!
Lets talk DINERO, bro!!
How much do ya want to lay down that says I can't do it. (keep in mind that I am now 63 y.o.,)!!!
If I was YOU, I would put down MEGA bucks!!!! So, dig DEEP, brah! ... just sayin'!
How much if i solo Airstream? First things first. Silk Banana, then we can discuss Airstream. Maybe do both in the same day.
BTW, Airstream doesn't come close to how desperate Silk Banana is. I new several peeps that cud do laps on Airstrem and they couldn't get one move into SB (after the first knee rest)! But, imo, Airstream is much more technical than SB!
I really think that SB is a 5.13+!! Or, at least that is what I rated/considered it at one time!
EDIT: John - thnx for chiming in. yea, it was great that you and also JB, around that time, developed the Hill to new 'heights', some real classics were put up by you guys! Longs Cracks (r&l) are supreme (some of my blood/dna is prollie still in the vicinity of them after all these years, lol)! KUDOS!!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Nov 16, 2012 - 02:39am PT
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I remember when RP did the FA on Silk Banana and the next day he dragged me up there to get the 2nd. It's seems fantastic that all these years later people are still talking sh#t about that route and having fun on it. I was working in PB for a few months recovering from a broken leg - right around 1975 - that when Long's Cracks and a bunch of that other stuff went up. I only got in on a few drops of it before being cleared for active duty and I bolted for the Valley.
JL
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Nov 16, 2012 - 09:51am PT
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We can start small then I'll give you double or nothing on the Vision
See you Sunday?
If you fail on SB, your wallet will be a little lighter, fail on Airstream, you'll end up in the hospital.
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splitter
Trad climber
da'Raven / Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 16, 2012 - 10:56am PT
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Johannsolo - See you Sunday!
Dood, I never claimed I could free solo Airstream ... ever! I may have considered it at one time (may again some day, but I doubt it).
If you want to, or have soloed it KOOL!!
I simply picked THE hardest boulder problem that I know of at Woodson, and layed down a challenge. Because Iam confident that I can still send it, after all these years, although I could be VERY disillusioned in my current ability to do so!
Like I said, I wish it was a "LONG" way off the deck, cuz i am that confident that I could still get across it at least once without falling, since I could at one time, after MUCH practice, do multiple cosecutive laps, rest and repeat it 3-4 times without much of a pump. Not sprayin', just sayin'!!
I stated on Donini's thread that I would return after 20+ years and do it again, make a TR and post it (since i have never posted a TR) and he was asking people on his thread "have you ever posted a tr" (or something to that effect) and challenging peeps to do so, instead of all this inane politard, religeous sh#t and trivial crap about "how big your weaner is and how small your gun is" (or whatever).
So, I gets this BRILLIANT idea (lol) yesterday about presenting this challenge (or whatever you want to call it). And, well here we are ...!
So, so far YOU are the only one who has bit/taken the bait (btw, i am still in the process of reeling you in, lol)! I did NOT make this about some 'You do this, I will do that, can you do it?' ... sort of game. I layed it out very clearly. You seem to know Woodson fairly well. Probably are intimately familiar with Silk Banana, and seem to be a "gambling man". If ya are, and since the odds of me pulling this off must seem mighty slim, ya really ought to empty at least your pockets (i would suggest that ya empty yer bank account, bro) and make yerself at least some bud & brew bucks, eh?
I am not about to take you up on your challenge (you turned it around to something totally different,btw). You haven't even said what kind of $$ yer willing to pony up. Plus, I want to pull in as many people as possible on this, spread the wealth so to speak (i am feeling very generous). If I went for it with your proposal, it would be "game over" this weekend. Sorry, but I have a much larger vision than the one you have come up with, so go back to yer drawing board, and perhaps save yer nichol and dimes for when this goes down, and get back to me then.
And please keep in mind that I have not been to Woodson in well over 10 years (cuz i have not climbed anything in that time) and have not even looked at SB in over 20 years. The odds of me being able to do this is vastly against me.(i can't even remember where SB exactly is located on the Hill!!)
CAPICHE????!?
BTW, thnx for responding/taking the bait ... SUCKER! (just kidding, lol)!!
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Nov 18, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
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whoa...maybe you should cut the Prozac's in half!
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 18, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
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I don't take any meds, except Lipitor (cholestrol).
Had one cup of coffee so far today. ...
I guess I'm just naturally like this!
Or, perhaps, I'm trolling?
...
NAW!
edit d00d, i see yer from dago'. homie, have ya ever given SB a go?
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Friend
climber
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Nov 18, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
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Trolling deepnet on a Woodson thread: Classic.
johansolo told you twice he'd be up there today and would take your bet, so what are you doing sitting around wasting time on the internet? Go fire the Silk Banana and collect your $$.
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Friend
climber
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Nov 18, 2012 - 07:27pm PT
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Friend, i dont know for sure, but that looks like its is over on the north side, and might I say, surrounded by poison oak.
Sorry Horvath, I overlooked your response from a few months ago. It is on the north side and pretty overgrown now. Fortunately I didn't see any poison oak right there (I'm a lightning rod for the stuff.)
A classic Woodson splitter and a classic sandbag (although I don't think the FA bouldered it).
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 18, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
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Friend,
I have already stated why I didn't take Johannsolo up on his offer;
1) he didn't/wouldn't commit to a $$ amount/bet.
2) he wanted to play you do this, i'll do that (Airstream/or we both do Airstream) then settle/winner takes all (whomever is still alive, lol).
3) i have a bigger vision in mind. take as many bets as possible. (like i have said/i'm feeling very generous, lol). and if i went with johannsolo's offer this early, it wud be 'game over' (with just one measly bet)! so i'm in no big hurry. if no one else responds, i'll just do a TR on it (like i said on Donini's thread). maybe take some pics or do a vid of it (one or the other).
Like I explained, and made it very simple; i picked THE hardest problem that I was/am aware of on the hill. I will match any/all bets (the more the better, imo). I either send or flail. All they gotta do is observe. If i send it, i collect, if i flail, i pay up! Pretty simple.
It, imo, is one of the hardest (perhaps the hardest) problem up there? Or maybe people have been flashing it left & right lately, i dunno (but i doubt it). And it has to be done without using yer knees, for a pure ascent, imo!
BTW, thanks for checking in with me!!
edit: i only know of three ascents:
1) FA Rick Piggott
2) SA John Long
3) Myself (bitd)
Perhaps there have been MANY more, but those are the only ones I am aware of.
There are some shots of BVB doing it, but he used his left knee all the way across. It is nolonger an undercling problem then, plus BVB is a tall dood (so is Rick Piggott, for that matter/not sure if he used his knees) and you need to be pretty tall to do it that way, and it makes it a lot easier. So, I don't count BVB's send!!
EDIT: Actually, the money aspect of it is really no big deal. I just had this "BRILIANT" (lol) idea on how to stir up some interest in SB/Woodson, and rolled with it!! (+ saw the opportunity to trash talk the sport-climbers)! ;)
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Nov 19, 2012 - 01:59am PT
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SB is only V5 or so. Almost got it today, next time fer sure. Let me pick the problem and you will get shut down. Great day out there, Robbins, Jaws, KP's demise. Go check out HDTV, The Vision, or Laker Girls if you really want something really hard. SB is nothing but a parlor trick that no one is intersted in and is not even that hard (how much that I can't do it?). If you think I'm a sport climber, meet me up at Suicide or out in JT. Where were you today BTW? Don't feed the troll. Also wake up, 13+ is only a measly V9, warm up for a gym rat.
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 19, 2012 - 03:11am PT
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Johannsolo - Almost got it...
V5?
You ALMOST got a V5?
That tells me everything!
d00d, do me a favor, don't waste my time anymore!!
nothing but a parlor trick Ummm. then why hasn't anyone figured it out in the last 30+ years?
It's a straight forward undercling. You can either do it or ya can't. And evidently YOU can't. So either work on it until ya can, or STFU!
The only trick to it, that I know of, is using your knee[s]. I already said i wouldn't. But, if ya want, go ahead and use that first one (pullharder doods used it in the vid i posted) since everyone seems to want to use it as a rest. It doesn't start getting hard until the next couple of moves anyway.
BTW, everybody ALMOST gets it. Fact is, they don't even come close. They get to the knee rest, then they fall off (just like in the Pullharder vid)!
And, you must have a reading comprehension problem. I could care less about any of the other problems on the hill. I spent years up there, and I have no interest in hearing what you can do. You can't do SB. Frankly, I don't care if ya can or ya can't. I made a simple bet that I could do it. I'm looking for bets that say I can't. So put yer money where yer mouth is, or STFU!
I'm not trolling anyone. When the time comes, I either send it or I don't. I either collect the bets or I pay up. Plain & simple. That's the offer I made (for the upteenth time). Yer either interested, or yer not.
EDIT: like i said, there is no trick to it. in fact, i thought the guy in the Pullharder vid (the second guy) was gonna get it, until he fell off. that is all there is to it. just like he was doing it, undercling it, untill he fell off. the only thing he did wrong, was, he fell off. evidently he didn't have the strength, stamina, balance, flow, breathing or whatever. but my guess, would be, he just didn't have the strength. cuz, basically, its a strength & endurance problem.
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 20, 2012 - 12:06am PT
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'Johannsolo - I'll get it next time! I hope you do. But if not, don't give up or as you said above, lose interest. It is, if nothing else, a great workout/pump at the end of the day. The problem is, most people do give up or lose interest after a few times!
nothing but a parlor trick and no one is interested in it and its not even that hard.
Parlor trick? Um, that is extremely disrespectful to the FA & SA party (Rick Piggott & John Long) imo!
Like I said multiple times already, it is straight forward under-cling. Nothing "trick" about it. And, "no one is interested" in it b'cuz they got tired of flailing on it and did end up losing interest in it. Or at least most of the people I new did.
And as far as this "V5 or so" goes, WHO came up with that rating? Or the 12c rating for that matter? The dood who wrote the most recent (as far as i know) Woodson guide that couldn't do it himself? Somebody in the early 90's gave it a V11 rating (maybe Piggott), I don't recall who! But that could have also been off? Not sure. It's been a way to long.
Anyway, you sound as though yer a pretty good climber/boulderer (from what you say you've been doing) and what I was implying in my last post up thread is, that if it was only V5, I think you would have gotten it yesterday. Maybe you will next time, I'd like to here an honest opinion about what the rating should be from someone who HAS done, not someone who "almost got it!"!
Gud Luck!!!
edit: also, i mentioned in my first post that I am waiting to get a left knee total knee replacement (TKR) it is bone-on-bone (zero cartilage/failed surgery). Workers Comp is going to do it whenever I want, but I have been putting it off. I will go up and give SB a shot first, but I do not want to go traipsing all over the hill.
Also, there is nothing wrong in pulling plastic in a gym, imo! I wasn't saying that. Its great especially if your already going to a gym to work out during the week. I wish they had them in the 70's and early 80's. Its just when they are the be all and end all. Nothing all that wrong with that either unless you start harping on how trad climbing/routes aren't up to par. Because really, if all someone does is climb in a gym, they are missing out on the primary reason climbing gyms were initially developed (i recall) that is to supplement traditional climbing. What it all boils down to is having fun. So whatever.
The reason I started this thread was to lure this guy from up north who is a boulderer and gym climber. That's all he does. Evidently pretty good. he's from Tahoe. He use to post here and I am pretty sure he still lurks. He use to give us crap all the time call us old farts. blah, blah blah. Said he had done SB and hd a pick of himself at the knee rest. I figured if he had done it, he would have had a pick of himself in the middle of the crux or whtever. But i doubt he did it. I thought I could lure him down with a bet. Prollie hates my guts on account of we both got booted off of ST for getting into an argument. He wasn't allowed back. His name is Weschrist. maybe you know or recall him. We got into this same argument bout SB a couple of times. maybe he doesn't even lurk here anymore. Guess it backfired!!
PerlonHex - "V3+" -- LOL!! like i said, the only trick was to use your knee[s]! they are off limit. There is no other 'trick'. Where's the proof you did it? I say yer full of it. Like I said, I was trying to pull Weschrist down here, he was willing to bet me at one time (last spring). People talk big, but they can't back it up! Come on down if yer that close (Orange Co)!
And, if its only V3+, why couldn't the mighty Johannsolo do it last weekend??? lol
On the low end it may be a V5+, but "Runamok/Ron Amick" didn't think so and neither did "Rick Piggott"! So who the hell are you???
From what I recall there weren't any moves harder that V6 but there are about 4-5 moves/under-clings in a row that are all about that. So maybe that is why somebody gave it a V5+ rating. Not really sure how they rate boulder problems these days. Maybe by the hardest individual move. But cumulatively its much harder, imo!
PerlonHex - SB is V3+ tops MH was my old stomping grounds for about 15 years. I can still do it right now, off the sofa, and is a trick. Nobody will pay you any $$$ to do that thing. LOL Go on break or put down the bottle guy. PerlonHex - i just noticed on your Jtree campsite post that yer wife is an OTR. so am i! if you lived down here and climbed at woodson, perhaps i know you or your wife since the occupational therapy business is fairly close nit (or use to be)! i work pimarily in hands/upper extremity out patient. good field!!
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hellcyon
climber
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Nov 20, 2012 - 11:09am PT
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 26, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
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Again, that triangular boulder is down at the bottom of the hill by the pond, wwith a pretty straight forward 5.8ish crack (pretty fun)...what/where is that bottom problem?
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Horvath
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
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ho lee sh#t
threads been quiet for while, then this ha!
Friend, glad you didn't get oaked! I light up pretty quick as well, get it every time I go to the north side. and ya trolling Rick is pretty damn funny.
btw Splitter- I'll give you 10 bucks if you can send Silk Banana this weekend.
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Juanito
Social climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 01:36am PT
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Anyone remember the Bouldering Comp back in '85? Kauk walked away with the win. Who else was there? I remember Christian Griffith came out from Colorado along with some other guys. I remember seeing Neil Cannon (I think?) flailing on some right leaning 12+ diagonal crack right off the road (Starving in Stereo?). There were two comps running simultaneously. One was a points comp and the other an elimination event. I think I still have one of the T-shirts. I entered both comps that day.
That day was the turning point in my climbing career. I remember getting on a route that Griffith couldn't get off the ground on and fired it. I thought that if I could do routes that mr big time climber couldn't, maybe I had a future in the sport.
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Juanito
Social climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 01:38am PT
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I always use to run into two guys there. Was it Dan and Donny? This was in the late eighties through the nineties. Those guys used to love to sandbag me - trouble was I'd usually end up flashing their routes. Good times...
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Nov 28, 2012 - 01:53am PT
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Ok first some background. Greg (Epperson) wasnt big on naming stuff bitd. If it wasnt some classic testpiece like syncopation he wouldnt give it a name. I guess you can do that when you put up as many classics as he has. So he would take me to some new problem that i thought was 5 star and when i asked what he named it he would go "i dont know, you name it". Greg found the masters area and i named it. He did the FA of morroccan menace and i did the repeat and gave it that name because greg was born in morocco. So when he told me about the problem on the little slab to the left, i did the repeat and called it slap and tickle because he never named little things like that, and thats how it went on my topos.
As it turned out, greg did have a name for it, because i guess he found it with KP, master of thin face, and kevin struck out, so he called it KPs demise. Two names for the same line. I corrected it on later topos, but in the meantime a variation was done going straight up out of the scoop, so now the two names are used for the 2 problems on the slab. The original line is to the left, frictioning up to shallow fingertip pods, so that should be called kps demise.
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