Big wall anchors - PHOTOS

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 61 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
xtrmecat

Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
Dec 18, 2011 - 11:04am PT
Not a great example, as I just arrived solo, the black rope is the haul line. Pig and ledge yet to arrive. Dock the pig off to one side, and ledge to the other just below the pig. I'll upload another pic or two if I can find em on this machine.


Dock the pigs to a bolt, backed up to the main anchor. The ledge can hang off anything, but stay tied into the master point yourself, at all times.

And although yer gonna die, don't skimp on the anchor and set the date.

Burly Bob
xtrmecat

Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
Dec 18, 2011 - 11:32am PT



Don't overlook a few bomber cams equalized is an awesome anchor, and even on a large ledge, it can be clustered in a big hurry. Sorry, none of the good stuff on this computer, maybe over x-mas.

Burly Bob
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 18, 2011 - 11:39am PT
I think abends photo is the best!
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Dec 18, 2011 - 11:43am PT
Maybe not as spectacular as abend's, but the potential is there...
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Dec 18, 2011 - 12:55pm PT

I've got to power points. One for hauling and one for cleaning.
A5scott

Trad climber
Chicago
Dec 19, 2011 - 04:27pm PT
bump for more anchor pics...

scott
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Dec 19, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
yosguns

climber
Paris, France
Dec 19, 2011 - 06:25pm PT

Edit: It made sense at the time.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Aug 15, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
Bump for hump day. Excellent thread!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 15, 2012 - 04:18pm PT

Keep it simple.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 15, 2012 - 04:22pm PT

Are you starting to see a pattern here?
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Aug 17, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
Just curious, Hudon, but what is the thin blue cordalette being used for? I would assume it is the equalized hauling anchor, but it seems pretty low compared to the anchor?

Wonderful photo documentation, btw! Very helpful.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 17, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
Those are 5 mil slings I have tied onto the top loops of my Yates Gear Bra. I clip them to the anchors before I take the gear sling off so that I can never drop it.

Clipping them to individual bolts allows the gear sling to hang nice and flat against the wall, making it easy to grab gear from it or to load it up with more gear.

Here is a photo of that on the Shield

WBraun

climber
Aug 17, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Aug 17, 2012 - 04:44pm PT
Learn that butterfly knot. It's adjustable. I haven't used it yet but will do so next time. The other thing to learn from Mark Hudon is his pulley system. 2:1 or 3:1, whatever it is. For most people, hauling is the hardest part of a wall. It's so exhausting! Divide the weight by 2 and it would be easy.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Aug 18, 2012 - 01:45am PT
Awesome thread, keep em coming!
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
Aug 18, 2012 - 01:53am PT
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Aug 18, 2012 - 10:34am PT
love your anchor system Mark Hudon

great pic Werner!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 18, 2012 - 10:42am PT
Part of my anchor system is my "Anchor Kit" of three large locking biners.

I use them more because they are large rather than locker. With large biners you can clip a lot of stuff to them and not pin anything else in. The ones I use have sort of a flat bottom so you can slide things towards the gate pretty easily, making it even easier to not pin anything.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Aug 18, 2012 - 11:03am PT
With large biners you can clip a lot of stuff to them and not pin anything else in. The ones I use have sort of a flat bottom so you can slide things towards the gate pretty easily, making it even easier to not pin anything.

Brilliant! ...just updated my gear list.
Messages 21 - 40 of total 61 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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