Big wall anchors - PHOTOS

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Messages 61 - 67 of total 67 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Gene

climber
Feb 19, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
the knot can get pulled in three directions and not get distorted.


I trust that not too much strength is lost with this knot?

I simply don't know.

Thanks,
g
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 19, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
Gene, it's strong in all those directions, that's another beauty of it.
Vlada

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
Oct 28, 2014 - 04:17pm PT
A question to Mark Hudon: Assuming that the current leader will lead the next pitch, how does the follower tie into the anchor after he jugs up to it? Does the follower tie into the anchor using his end of the rope in the same way as the leader did? Thanks.
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Oct 28, 2014 - 06:24pm PT
I am not mark hudon but, I like to tie in with daisy chains, 1 on the master point and 1 on a bolt out of the way, or on the first peice of gear for the lead, this makes the transition easier...

It really doesn't matter how you tie into an anchor though!!!
Vlada

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
Oct 29, 2014 - 08:46am PT
What whitemeat describes is what we do when the follower becomes the leader for the next pitch (switching leads at the anchor). It is simple, efficient, and safe.

However my question was related to the case when the leader leads in blocks (i.e. the previous leader leads the next pitch). How should the follower attach to the anchor so that the anchor would be safe even if the leader takes a Factor 2 fall on the anchor?
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Oct 29, 2014 - 10:31am PT
However my question was related to the case when the leader leads in blocks

Swap ends of the rope, triple checking your tethers/daisies/knots before and after the high-G maneuver?

...even if the leader takes a Factor 2 fall on the anchor?

Don't. Redirect the rope through a draw on a bolt, there will be enough extra rope between the belayer and that draw to greatly reduce the fall factor, and the belayer will go for a small ride to further reduce the impact. Am I missing something?

Hudon's setup does not create a nice obvious "Power Point" like a cordelette, but instead uses squishy rope on (hopefully) bomber bolts to be good enough. The follower gets 2 semi-equalized bolts to jug on, but the belayer is hanging off of one clove, backed up to the other bolts. With good bolts this is just fine with me.

I am however not a fan of hauling off of 1-bolt, it weirds me out, especially with a static haul line. Nothing about his main haul anchor precludes hauling off of a sliding-X or knotted sling to put some redundancy into the haul anchor. He ties all the bolts together so you wonld not lose the pig entirely, but there could be quite the mess if the haul bolt popped and the whole rig dropped a couple feet.
Vlada

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
Oct 29, 2014 - 03:11pm PT
Thanks Moof. Swapping the ends of the rope is probably the most efficient way to get the follower anchored and the leader starting the next pitch.

As you describe, we always try to prevent Factor 2 fall by clipping a draw to one of the anchor bolts, and if possible, placing the first pro as bomber as possible somewhere near above the anchor.

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