Big wall anchors - PHOTOS

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 62 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Brendan Gill

Trad climber
Guernsey
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 15, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
hey all

I have not climbed a big wall yet and so far i have had no problem in building anchors.

BUT

i just want to see some examples of what other people have built so i can compare designs.

the idea is to see things like.
were and how the haul bags are clipped.
what point is the porta-ledge clipped too.
hauling point where that fits in.

i have googled lots. the best picture i have see is the one provided by climbing tech tips.

http://www.climbing.com/print/techtips/AID.224.gif

thanks
Brendan
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Dec 15, 2011 - 11:20pm PT
Give yourself enough rope to duck away from falling sh#t and never have the bag hauled on only one high anchor.

Tie up some logical crap that makes sense in your back yard before finding out the limits of a genuine Charlie Porter bolt from the seventies. Equalize.
locker

Social climber
CO
Dec 15, 2011 - 11:25pm PT


Dumb, dee, dumb, dumb, do, dah, day...

Troll, troll, away...

Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Dec 16, 2011 - 12:16am PT
There's the Sane Way, and the Canadian Assassin's "Better Way".

That pic is the Canadian Assassin's handy work, using about 20 biners for a single anchor. What could be Better than that?

Pretty much everyone I've done a wall with puts up a 3 bolt cordalette right on the anchor, and a 2 bolt hauling anchor with slings to one side, sharing hangers if the bolts allow (most trade routes have decent hangers that accept 2 bolts nicely. Stuff gets layered in using reasonable common sense after that, and it mostly works out. After a few clusters your first time out you get things dialed enough to do Better than 1 pitch a day...

Ideally you run with a tag line and tag up the haul line, anchor kit (cordalette, slings, pile of biners), hauler, spare rack, and go at it.

FYI, most pics you'll find of big wall anchors look like a giant cluster. Stacked ropes, docked pigs, bosun seats, spare rack, etc all make things look awful, but if things are handled a little sanely theings layer on, then back off just fine.
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Dec 16, 2011 - 12:29am PT
Anchor cluster
Anchor cluster
Credit: Moof

Typical anchor cluster. With all your crap clipped in, it is hard to see that this anchor is just fine, and did not create cluster. Layer things so nothing is trapped, and you'll be fine.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Dec 16, 2011 - 12:32am PT
You will learn a routine only by overcoming the bullying nature of the first few day's pitches. Repetition of a system will become more logical and refined as you ascend.

Doug Scott's best line in his book, "Big Wall Climbing" was to take it one pitch at a time. The goal taken as it's sum would be overwhelming.

The bags become lighter every day you go up. As long as the weather's good, just keep the idea of going up first regardless of what your brain thinks. Decide to have a good time and things will be easier...
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Dec 16, 2011 - 12:44am PT
Keep a sense of humor?

On South Seas, at an anchor somewhere around the seventh pitch (the dolphin was our mascot - someone else had left the coconut taped to the wall):

Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Dec 16, 2011 - 07:49am PT
Credit: Norwegian
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Dec 16, 2011 - 10:01am PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#169475

Yard sale.

BTW...the black bag is full of beer.

Safety first and all.
jfailing

Trad climber
Lone Pine
Dec 16, 2011 - 10:41am PT
3rd pitch leaning tower
3rd pitch leaning tower
Credit: jfailing
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 16, 2011 - 11:08am PT
Simple, clean, efficient.

notice how each bolt is backing up the bolt below it.
notice how each bolt is backing up the bolt below it.
Credit: Mark Hudon

Totally fircken bomber, clean and efficient.

notice how extending the clip in point on the right helps make that ni...
notice how extending the clip in point on the right helps make that nice "Y" that puts the force on two bolts. Notice how the butterfly knot continues to help share the load with the bolt to it's left.
Credit: Mark Hudon

as bomber as you'll ever need but still clean and efficient.

I always haul of off one bolt. I never equalize that although I do safety it over to another bolt.

Notice the long loop on the butterfly knot is making that nice "Y" the...
Notice the long loop on the butterfly knot is making that nice "Y" thereby sharing the load with the middle bolt.
Credit: Mark Hudon

A hanging bivy anchor on the top of the PO.

Notice that it is still pretty clean and organized.

Notice that although this is a bivy anchor, the anchor is not a total ...
Notice that although this is a bivy anchor, the anchor is not a total cluster. Keeping the clusters to a minimum gets you off the anchor faster and up the route.
Credit: Mark Hudon
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Dec 16, 2011 - 11:18am PT
Hudon is my hero.
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Dec 16, 2011 - 11:21am PT
Contrary to all the drilled wall anchors illustrated above, don't forget that you can actually use natural anchors too...

Bomber pebble anchor
Bomber pebble anchor
Credit: Anxious Melancholy

chockstone anchor....
chockstone anchor....
Credit: Anxious Melancholy


course, then again, ya got to remeber that.

















yur gonna die!
thekidcormier

Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 16, 2011 - 11:53am PT
Hudon is my hero.

Same here!
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Dec 16, 2011 - 11:57am PT
I was hopin' Hudon would post some of his pics. Yay!

...making lots of mental notes...gotta figure out that Sheep Knot thing...
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 16, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
Thanks.

Figure out the Butterfly knot and how to make the loop larger or smaller and how to move the whole knot up and down the rope all without untying it and you'll have easy, fast and cluster free anchors always available to you.
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Dec 16, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
Thanks, Mark. I was gettin' my sheep & butterflies confused.
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Dec 16, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
Piton Pete, where are you? Shot these wankers the real shite!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 16, 2011 - 12:10pm PT
I was wondering about that Dos XX ;-)
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 16, 2011 - 12:13pm PT
I wish I had taken a photo of that totally climber built anchor on top of the second to last pitch of the South Seas-PO.

I had six cams all equalized with Butterfly knots down to two points, one for hauling and one for jugging. Even though it wasn't bolts, it was simple, clean, effective and totally bomber.
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