WBraun
climber
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Aug 17, 2012 - 11:48am PT
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Aug 17, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
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Learn that butterfly knot. It's adjustable. I haven't used it yet but will do so next time. The other thing to learn from Mark Hudon is his pulley system. 2:1 or 3:1, whatever it is. For most people, hauling is the hardest part of a wall. It's so exhausting! Divide the weight by 2 and it would be easy.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Aug 17, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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Awesome thread, keep em coming!
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Aug 17, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Aug 18, 2012 - 07:34am PT
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love your anchor system Mark Hudon
great pic Werner!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Aug 18, 2012 - 07:42am PT
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Part of my anchor system is my "Anchor Kit" of three large locking biners.
I use them more because they are large rather than locker. With large biners you can clip a lot of stuff to them and not pin anything else in. The ones I use have sort of a flat bottom so you can slide things towards the gate pretty easily, making it even easier to not pin anything.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Aug 18, 2012 - 08:03am PT
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With large biners you can clip a lot of stuff to them and not pin anything else in. The ones I use have sort of a flat bottom so you can slide things towards the gate pretty easily, making it even easier to not pin anything.
Brilliant! ...just updated my gear list.
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micronut
Trad climber
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My first Big Wall anchor this past summer on The Column. Top of Pitch 2.
I really wanted to make Hudon proud with this one after much practice and disipleship.
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WBraun
climber
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Bolt anchors are not "Big wall anchors" just way homo n00b spray ;-)
You hafta put in a bunch mank all equalized together in sh!ty placements to make your claim ......
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Like this Werner?
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WBraun
climber
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Yes ....
Much better .......
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Well, regardless of what Werner says, big wall anchors, at least in Yosemite these days, on quite a few wall routes, are three or more 3/8 bolts.
Lost in America anchor.
The green rope on the left is where the second is coming up, the white rope is the haul line that I'm rapping on and jugging back up the next day.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Hudon inspired anchor. Make a butterfly with a big loop, equalize with a clove hitch or whatever other knot you want to use. Boom! Fast, easy, bomber, clean
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Briham, you got it!
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Jacemullen
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Feb 19, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
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Sorry for bringing up a dead thread but Google lead me here.
Mark,
On the first picture you posted on the first page, I see that you docked your haulbags on the left and middle bolts. Were did you put your pullys/hauling system? I really like the simplicity of your anchors but where to setup a haul from is the one thing that has been killing me since I first read about it on your website.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Feb 19, 2013 - 02:49pm PT
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With big beefy new bolts, I just attach it to one of them and haul. It is of course backed up to the other one or two bolts. If the bolts aren't so bomber make an equalized anchor out of slings, cordlette,etc... and haul off that
Micronut's picture a few post up shows this
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 19, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
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Jace, on that particular anchor I hauled from the middle bolt. I don't worry about modern 3/8" bolts failing under a hauling load but the fact that the left-most bolt sort of backed it up made me happy.
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Nilepoc
Big Wall climber
Tx
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Feb 19, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 19, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
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Mark,
Beautifully simple anchors, but why a butterfly and not an overhand or figure-eight? Adjustability or security, or ... . I know there must be something I'm missing.
Thanks
Darwin
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SuperTopo on the Web
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