Big wall anchors - PHOTOS

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 63 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
WBraun

climber
Aug 17, 2012 - 11:48am PT
Imax wall anchor from "To the Limit" Nose El Cap <br/>
Mike Hoover collect...
Imax wall anchor from "To the Limit" Nose El Cap
Mike Hoover collection
Credit: WBraun
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Aug 17, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
Learn that butterfly knot. It's adjustable. I haven't used it yet but will do so next time. The other thing to learn from Mark Hudon is his pulley system. 2:1 or 3:1, whatever it is. For most people, hauling is the hardest part of a wall. It's so exhausting! Divide the weight by 2 and it would be easy.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Aug 17, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
Awesome thread, keep em coming!
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
Aug 17, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
Anchor w/2x1 on a bolt.
Anchor w/2x1 on a bolt.
Credit: westhegimp
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Aug 18, 2012 - 07:34am PT
love your anchor system Mark Hudon

great pic Werner!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 18, 2012 - 07:42am PT
Part of my anchor system is my "Anchor Kit" of three large locking biners.

I use them more because they are large rather than locker. With large biners you can clip a lot of stuff to them and not pin anything else in. The ones I use have sort of a flat bottom so you can slide things towards the gate pretty easily, making it even easier to not pin anything.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Aug 18, 2012 - 08:03am PT
With large biners you can clip a lot of stuff to them and not pin anything else in. The ones I use have sort of a flat bottom so you can slide things towards the gate pretty easily, making it even easier to not pin anything.

Brilliant! ...just updated my gear list.
micronut

Trad climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
My first Big Wall anchor this past summer on The Column. Top of Pitch 2.

I really wanted to make Hudon proud with this one after much practice and disipleship.

Credit: micronut
fat-n-sassy

Social climber
San Francity, CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 08:04am PT
Sickle ledge, anchor only notable for the wildlife...
Sickle ledge, anchor only notable for the wildlife...
Credit: fat-n-sassy
WBraun

climber
Dec 8, 2012 - 08:50am PT
Bolt anchors are not "Big wall anchors" just way homo n00b spray ;-)

You hafta put in a bunch mank all equalized together in sh!ty placements to make your claim ......
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Dec 8, 2012 - 08:55am PT
Like this Werner?


Credit: philo
WBraun

climber
Dec 8, 2012 - 08:57am PT
Yes ....

Much better .......
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 8, 2012 - 11:31am PT
Well, regardless of what Werner says, big wall anchors, at least in Yosemite these days, on quite a few wall routes, are three or more 3/8 bolts.

Lost in America anchor.

The green rope on the left is where the second is coming up, the white rope is the haul line that I'm rapping on and jugging back up the next day.

Credit: Mark Hudon
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Dec 8, 2012 - 11:38am PT
"Hudon" style big wall anchor. Simple, bomber, clean
"Hudon" style big wall anchor. Simple, bomber, clean
Credit: briham89

Hudon inspired anchor. Make a butterfly with a big loop, equalize with a clove hitch or whatever other knot you want to use. Boom! Fast, easy, bomber, clean
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 8, 2012 - 11:52am PT
Briham, you got it!
Jacemullen

Trad climber
Oceanside
Feb 19, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
Sorry for bringing up a dead thread but Google lead me here.

Mark,

On the first picture you posted on the first page, I see that you docked your haulbags on the left and middle bolts. Were did you put your pullys/hauling system? I really like the simplicity of your anchors but where to setup a haul from is the one thing that has been killing me since I first read about it on your website.

briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Feb 19, 2013 - 02:49pm PT
With big beefy new bolts, I just attach it to one of them and haul. It is of course backed up to the other one or two bolts. If the bolts aren't so bomber make an equalized anchor out of slings, cordlette,etc... and haul off that

Micronut's picture a few post up shows this
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 19, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
Jace, on that particular anchor I hauled from the middle bolt. I don't worry about modern 3/8" bolts failing under a hauling load but the fact that the left-most bolt sort of backed it up made me happy.
Nilepoc

Big Wall climber
Tx
Feb 19, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
Anchor above black cave pitch NA Wall, Hudon inspired. Haul on the lef...
Anchor above black cave pitch NA Wall, Hudon inspired. Haul on the left second coming in from the right.
Credit: Nilepoc
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 19, 2013 - 07:04pm PT

Mark,

Beautifully simple anchors, but why a butterfly and not an overhand or figure-eight? Adjustability or security, or ... . I know there must be something I'm missing.

Thanks
Darwin

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