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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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pics from pitch 9(?) a few days ago
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
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Yeah, Roger, but it never stays on the front page. Start a political thread and it will run forever. Have you checked those out lately? People are behaving very badly.
Lots of stuff going on Sonny Trotter and partner are working on the 2nd of The Prophet. Lots of repeats of free climbs this year.
Hey, it is 2011. Get with the program and admire this generation's ability. What are there? 14 free routes on the Captain now?
No more nailing on free routes!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Let's all send some good weather vibes their way!
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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How's it looking up there today?
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2011 - 01:01pm PT
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Probably cold.
From the story he wrote about working the route previously, he can only do it when it is very cold. That and a pair of shoes lasts a day or something crazy.
He has taken "slab" climbing to a whole new universe. A slab is anything that doesn't overhang these days. All of the ultra hard routes are in caves and the like.
He is working these micro, micro, edges. Stuff that people didn't even consider hooking previously.
A lot of us have aided many of those pitches. The Nose? Yeah, I can see it. This stuff? No way.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Thanks for he update.
Just ordered ascent 2011 so looking forward to reading his piece.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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It's interesting that so many top climbers have also been great writers.
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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MTucker, you are a shining light of tolerance and love.
Third!
Erik
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Base104,
I know that most climbing threads get few responses and quickly fall off the page. There is no way to keep track of how many threads are read on the forum but you can keep track on Trip Reports. There, the evidence says that people go back and dig up old trip reports and at least open them.
I briefly read some of the links on Tommy's Dawn Wall effort. The only one that showed “views” is YouTube, which was about 500 for the one I watched, which is insanely low given what Tommy is doing. The rest of the blogs had only a few or no comments. So it is hard to tell how many people anywhere pay much attention to cool climbing news. I think that Kim Kardashian’s following it much larger—I had to look her up when the 72 days of marriage hit the national news--she is now famous for being famous. She also gets paid by sponsors for her tweets. I wonder if she could manage 30 days on the Dawn Wall?
All the climbing web sites are self-selected but ST is interactive and wide open. On RockandIce you can read Tommy's blog and post, but few post comments, certainly many fewer compared to the same link posted on ST.
I would really like it if the current climbers posted and interacted with other climbers (How about a front row seat on a granular discussion between John Gill and Tommy on mastering hard moves or Peter Haan and Alex Honnold on free soloing!) but almost none do.
I get the feeling that we, collectively, are not cool; we certainly don't climb very hard, and some of us are old. But, we cannot do much about that, nor can we do anything about the fact that the cool, really hard, young climbers don't post. They release videos, and write articles, and blog, and tweet, but they don't post. So, until that changes, we are doomed, again collectively, to being our uncool, unhard, and unyoung selves.
However, given that ST has been very successful, I would like to understand why young, hard climbers don’t post. Many of them have obligation to their sponsors, but it is not so obvious to me why posting on ST would not satisfy their obligations to feed their fans and keep their sponsors happy. It is just another connection path. I really don’t know the answer to this, at least from a business perspective. I suspect that somehow the nonclimbing threads and crudeness has something to do with it. But since all the ST readers and posters are in the community of climbers which supports the sponsors, I think that just means that ST is unfiltered. Or, said another way, when one of the 500 who watched the YouTube video of Tommy is done, he and his friends searched out the Kim Kardashian sex tapes and no one except YouTube knows and Tommy has no explaining to do, so to speak.
I am not complaining too much: I have had almost no success over the years in getting many of my friends from the 50s, 60s, and 70s to post.
So, Tommy’s ascent is very interesting and I take as much as I can get. But I am most likely to follow links posted on ST rather than search them out myself.
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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I wonder if [Kim Kardashian] could manage 30 days on the Dawn Wall
I don't think she'd last 30 seconds in the Valley - there isn't a Gucci/Prada/Armani boutique... Or any spas for that matter.
Tommy is way badass for doing this. Super impressive. Massive balls.
I personally dig the coverage - it's an interesting take on climbing and today's various forms of digital media/social networking. This is why of course, there are a healthy number of haters - so stop being so bitter, old dudes.
Also, BASE - consider how many people lurk on this site who never post (possibly in fear of getting flamed for no apparent reason), but read a lot of the TR's and climbing-related posts. I think there are way more who lurk than who actually post...
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Now THOSE are some wall photos.
How does this happen? They go up and try and free a pitch...assuming that they hangdog until they get up it...then pull the rope and lead that pitch. Tommy says they are on pitch 12..is that the way it's going? Then once they top out, does he start at the bottom and free each pitch in turn to the top in a single push?
Just curious. Not being a bitter old dude:-)
Saw a tweet from March "@tommycaldwell1 Tommy Caldwell
5 pull ups, 10 push ups, 15 sit ups, over and over for 20 minutes. Last night I did 26 rounds. How many can you do?
I'm thinking ...2 for me:-)
Base 104...are you French Canadian? Were you in Zion this spring right after the heavy rains?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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I get the feeling that we, collectively, are not cool, don't climb really hard, and some of us are old. But, we cannot do anything about the fact that the cool, really hard, young climbers don't post.
I am young, and I post. Now only need to learn to climb! : )
I think the reason why younger hard climbers don't post is bc most are either in school or college. That takes a lot of time for classes/homework. Plus training and other social things they still want to do...Would be hard being in school all day, having to train for 4 hours, satisfy your gf, and do some homework after..no?
People with jobs that can post from work and people that are retired probably have more opportunity to post.
Fk kim K. by the way. The only reason she is famous is because our nation is getting more and more idiotic. Listen to radio, turn on your tv...What most find entertaining is really simple, stupid sh#t. Jersey Shore drama and attention/fame seeking slut dominate...oh yeah than there is football on Sunday. It makes me sick that teenage girls look up to that broad.
Majority of people do not know wtf Dawn wall is and who Tommy is. Most people even in climbing community can't relate to understanding what would it be like to free several 5.13-5.14 pitches in a day. Most would find getting to the top of Mt. Rainier/Whitney more impressive. ahahahha
I actually took one of my x gfs to see Rock Reel tour this year. She does not climb, and never been interested in it. But she really loved the show, and couldn't understand why it was not presented to a larger audience. However, if I did not drag her there she would probably have no interest in going in the first place.
Good luck to Tommy. Sad his partner couldn't join this season. Would be nice to see them both do it together.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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"@tommycaldwell1 Tommy Caldwell
5 pull ups, 10 push ups, 15 sit ups, over and over for 20 minutes. Last night I did 26 rounds. How many can you do?"
wtf? Is he trying to say he did this little workout for 8.6 hours??? Sounds ridiculous.
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Good luck to Tommy. Sad his partner couldn't join this season.
My friend and I had this discussion: considering how much effort that Kevin J has put into the wall, is it fair that Tommy gets to go for the send without him?
We decided that Tommy has more invested in it, and it's sort of his baby...
As far as younger climbers and ST, it's way intimidating to post on here for younger, less initiated folk. You risk getting waaay flamed. There are plenty of hard-sending younger generation climbers that post and lurk on ST. I think the main reason the hard-men don't post here, is that they're too busy climbing all the time...
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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The most noticeable thing about tweeting is that everyone sounds soooo Kardashian.
jfailing, I don't buy that they are too busy: they tweet and blog and write and video post for a living. I think they don't like us--maybe its just Donini--they are just not that into us.
Edited: (Sorry Jim: Insult as much as you like, but spell the names right.)
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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@RogerBreedlove, ZOMG Stop h4ting K1M, She's my her0 #divorcerocks #iloveprada #whatsadawnwall?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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So if Bridwell was up on the Dawn, would we say that the early Bird gets the worm?
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Gene
climber
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MH,
Nice mezcalito reference.
g
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