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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 6, 2011 - 01:52pm PT
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Hey,
Lots of cool stuff has been going on in Yosemite, but it rarely finds its way onto the Taco.
So. For all of us old farts who have already have had their time in the sun: let it go. Climbing is still going strong. Cheer!
The only info I have is from Tommy's blog. If anyone here is up on the latest details, I would love to start a real climbing thread on his progress.
This is history. Snap to!
Tommy's Blog:
http://tommyandbecca.blogspot.com/
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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He has been updating his facebook fan page daily.
Or for those who choose not to Facebook here is his twitter sans photos.
http://twitter.com/#!/tommycaldwell1
Here is this mornings post.
"More fresh snow. Think it's going to be another rest day."
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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He's currently having a hard time with pitch 12.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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"chillin"
That's the way it's done. Persistence
they might be up there a long time. Break in the weather tomorrow but staying COLD in the valley.
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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This whole project is simply amazing. 30 Days for the FA of The Dawn Wall, what about 30 days for the first free ascent? Go Tommy!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Doug Robinson showed a great slide at the PG Sunnyvale show last week. Tommy on an zero-points-of-contact dyno sideways to a tiny ledge. He has a great look of detached concentration (whatever that means) on his face.
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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Reading the "Tommy's Blog" is a bit disgusting. Sheeesh, could it be any more of a fan parade.
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Skeptimistic
Mountain climber
La Mancha
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Reading the "Tommy's Blog" is a bit disgusting
Jealous much?
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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Aaaaaah No.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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I enjoy the memories and tales of previous days...
I am also riveted by the new ground being broken by the "climbers of today".
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Having just done New Dawn a week ago, I can tell you that Tommy has the first pitch in the blank dihedral ticked out, and it looks wicked, wicked hard. Steep, razor thin crimps, and gunning it between bolts and some #3 Peckers. It looks wild, and very hard, though Tommy told me it was probably only 13c/d - there's a bunch of harder climbing than that.
Way rad and super impressive free climbing up there.
Go Tommy!!!
Paul
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2011 - 03:02pm PT
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MTucker, you are a shining light of tolerance and love.
Let me give you another sloppy BASE jumper kiss. Smooooooch.
Most of this site is old farts who still bitch about gyms and sport climbing. All the while, climbing has become very badass.
Why are we spending all of our time in a grotesque discussion of doctored hook moves on a thirty year old route, while being totally oblivious to the hard free climbing going on on El Cap.
This is now. Enjoy the past, but embrace what he is doing.
Just go log onto the Rock & Ice website and there is a lot of news on hard free climbs that have gone up or received repeats this year. The mags report on stuff happening in the valley that receives no mention on this site.
Embrace your inner dinosaur.
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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Thank you very much. I have gotten love from BASE104,BASE1250,BASE1361, BASE-Ammon, BASE-Hank. I got notches on the bed post adding up.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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MTucker, you are a shining light of tolerance and love.
Let me give you another sloppy BASE jumper kiss. Smooooooch.
Most of this site is old farts who still bitch about gyms and sport climbing. All the while, climbing has become very badass.
Why are we spending all of our time in a grotesque discussion of doctored hook moves on a thirty year old route, while being totally oblivious to the hard free climbing going on on El Cap.
This is now. Enjoy the past, but embrace what he is doing.
Just go log onto the Rock & Ice website and there is a lot of news on hard free climbs that have gone up or received repeats this year. The mags report on stuff happening in the valley that receives no mention on this site.
Embrace your inner dinosaur.
I second that
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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hell yeah, Tommy getting er done! Wish I had the skill and the drive to be up there trying what he is doing.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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I'm jealous, that's for sure! I'd love to be that good and that committed to be up there right now!
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
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Some facebook info on pitch 12. Bad ass for sure:
That was a intense one today on pitch 12. First I pulled a few pitons and took big falls. Then I broke a few footholds. Five tries later I finally had the new sequence through the bottom worked out. Then I fell at the very end... Twice. Temps never got above freezing. Eight tries in all and no send. The good news is that I am feeling strong. This one just wasn't in the cards for me today.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Yeah, that monster dyno sideways I showed was borrowed from this year's Ascent Magazine. First issue since 1999.
Here's a crude snapshot of that opening spread of Tommy's article. Apologies to the photographer, who somehow didn't get credited.
The photo is shocking proof of what those guys are pulling off, way up that blankety blank wall. There's a good one of Kevin too, micro-crimping on vertical smoothness. Only it's in National Geographic. But here's what surprised me more: Tommy's article is the best thing in the magazine. More gripping than mine, and more emotionally honest too.
Get it. Read it. You can get a free copy by subscribing to Rock & Ice. Or try Chessler, who just slashed the cover price.
Tommy Caldwell is my new hero as a climbing writer, because he transcends the left-foot, right-foot rhetoric to go for the messy details of divorce and new love and who pushed that kidnapping terrorist off the cliff.
Ascent Magazine, annual and then sporadic since 1967
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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These are not good conditions to be on a wall in Yos. The dood has huevos.
Go Tommy go!
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