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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Nov 21, 2011 - 10:49am PT
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Any updates?
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Nov 21, 2011 - 11:50am PT
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He was up there on Sat... Not sure about post snowstorm though.
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wack-N-dangle
Gym climber
the ground up
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Nov 21, 2011 - 11:56am PT
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I happened past him, his wife, and one other. He was under a very low hanging roof. I remember his wife's foot in a cast, and a "Try hard Tommy!!!". There may be a small window of weather, but I'm sure that's not news.
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Nov 21, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
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You "happened past"? On the wall? Sounds like you need to write a TR!
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 22, 2011 - 02:20am PT
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tommy came down a couple days ago. fixed lines were no longer there
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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Nov 22, 2011 - 02:55am PT
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Shut down again.
Wonder if this route will get done and then would it ever be repeated.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Nov 22, 2011 - 03:52am PT
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He'd better hurry up, I hear there's a long line of climbers tired of waiting for the onsite send.
Really though, can't see this route every getting a repeat, even if it turns out to be the best/most difficult free climb yet. If someone had the talent to send a route of this scale, would they spend years, or even a climbing season, methodically working someone elses route for a repeat? (How many repeats has The Nose, a much "easier" free climb, seen?) Someone with that much talent would have a whole world of amazing first ascents (And maybe the "best free climb yet")awaiting to unfold for them. Most with that kind of talent would probably prefer to spend that sort of energy on their own lifetime achievement project.
But.......never say never.......there probably are others who could do this route if they got completely obsessed with sending it, and were willing to forego other opportunities.
A lot of respect for his drive and talent. Hope he succeeds, which I believe he will, after all of his long determination.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Nov 22, 2011 - 04:11am PT
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It will eventually be some teenager's warm up climb.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Nov 22, 2011 - 11:31am PT
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Thanks for the updates and sorry to hear that he has been shut down.
Here's hoping that he can finish it next season.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 22, 2011 - 11:37am PT
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Nice to see some positive from this as well. He will hopefully get to come back with his partner (who was injured for this attempt) and do it right.
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Dec 13, 2011 - 10:05am PT
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Young Gun - Great article....
Observers enjoy it, sponsors encourage it and climbers get to share what is inherently a selfish pursuit.
True.....
So true
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
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One time I was up in ANWR for 6 weeks and I took a sat phone along.
I was stuck in my tiny bivy tent for three days in a snow storm and spent about 500 dollars calling everyone on earth that I had ever met.
Kind of like drunk dialing, ya know?
It was at all hours, since there is really no day or night up there in the summer.
And yeah, you CAN dial 411 and get someone's phone number with a sat phone.
I now renounce sat phones. F*#k sat phones.
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YoungGun
climber
North
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Dec 13, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
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^^^
LMAO BASE. Boredom is costly!
DMT: I agree this isn't new. For all of the talk about purity of motivations, I think purity is not exactly a preeminent human quality. Maybe purity is solely the mental possession of the deluded.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Dec 13, 2011 - 01:44pm PT
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Enough to make an old man's head spin in curmudgeonly orbits.
Ha ha ahhha ha great line.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Dec 13, 2011 - 01:58pm PT
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Last year, facing a large snowstorm, Caldwell and Jorgeson posed a question on a message board on a climbing Web site, to see if their hanging camp would be bombarded by falling ice after the storm cleared, making it too dangerous to stay. Out of hundreds of responses, a few people with experience on the wall after a storm explained that their camp was unprotected from above and would be showered with dangerous chunks of ice.
They retreated the next day.
The climbing site in question is ST of course, there was even a little bit of the above situation shown in the Reel Rock Tour 2011. The comments from avatars Rincon and Dr. Sprock were shown in the film. Old news to many of you I'm sure, kinda cool nonetheless.
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MH2
climber
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Dec 13, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
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YoungGun says
Maybe purity is solely the mental possession of the deluded.
Funny and likely true. But if one's reach does not exceed one's grasp, then what is crazy for?
"Fail I alone, in words and deeds?
Why, all men strive and who succeeds?"
 more Robert Browning
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