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RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 28, 2013 - 12:42am PT
Oh & cool pics grippa! (Edit- and Big Mike!!!!!!!!!)

I remember u saying that u were gonna be up, glad u had fun!



I think teenage girls is gud without the belay, makes a full pitch. Multi pitching on penny lane seems best avoided. Love that climb though, super cool jugs up top! I heard Anders was actually the chopper there?


On that note rolfr,, A new to me climb I did at penny lane recently called grumpy old men had a similar feel as to fall potential/bolt placement relative to cruxes/rests as teenage girls with some wandery climbing & ledgy stances. We did it as a warm up not really knowing what it was & found it to be a cool route with fun, technical climbing & a cool crux up top, & a sandbag for a warmup. What's the story with the name on that one? Was somebody on the FA team havin a rough day??

Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 28, 2013 - 11:23am PT
Thanks guys! Freakin luvvvvvv Squam and environs.Now that we truly ticked the classics I can't wait to visit again, and do some longer stuff along with more obscure routes.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 4, 2014 - 08:13am PT
Saw this from kik on the whippers on Swami's thread:


ok-- since we aren't getting big stories--

1982 winter. i'm in jtree, in my k-mart sleeping bag and mec bivouac bag. no car, no bike, no food, no likker, nos crib. it snow, epic, at least for jtree, monumental-- maybe a bit more than a foot. i wake up and hv is empty. no rangers, no tourists, no climbers. i put on all the clothes i own and crawl up on top of a boulder.

hours pass. the snow falls.

i wake up to a big "CRASH." a tiny beater car has careened into the dumpster at the "cube" campsite. it sits there for maybe three or four minutes. then the passenger gets out, looks at the front of the car/rock, and returns. a few minutes later, the driver gets out, checks the damage, then returns.

i'm freezing. but i notice the BC plates on the beater. since i used to live in Vancouver, and learned to climb in Squamish (which has maybe 17 climbers total), it's a safe bet I know the owner. So I climb down, knock on the window, and sure enuf, it's Peter and Hamish. I pile into the car to prevent frostbite (trying to ignore the lettuce atmosphere and endless homophobic/philic jokes nttawwt)and wait out the storm.

me: This blows.
peter: If it stops snowing, we'll climb.

and climb we did. It heated up to at least 38 degrees and so we drove off to Wangerbanger (since something that faced northeast was clearly indicated) and Peter led it. He looked just slightly less than south of casual, and that was a warning sign. Hamish declined to follow. So I tied in and cast off.

ten feet up my hands were numb. i kept stuffing them into the crack. but I had no idea what they were doing. it was as if someone had surgically attached chunks of defrosting horsemeat to my wrists. i pitched. and the top-rope jammed.

(HERE IS THE SWAMI PART) Peter had f*#ked up the anchor. So there I was, swinging in the winter breeze, numb, hungry, cold, sober and in serious pain, and yet only twenty feet off the deck and no one to witness my heroic sacrifice.

I held out my frozen meat hooks, and Hamish, while holding down the belay, valiantly tried to toss up a runner. God knows how cold he must have been. It was like the ringtoss at the circus. Meanwhile, Peter ran up top to fix the clusterf*#k. Finally, I speared the runner, inverted, and executed the baboon hang which I had seen only in Ament's "Rockwise" (as demonstrated at Horsetooth Reservoir.) Peter got to the belay; I pulled in for along enuf to fix the damn thing; and lowered off.

A few hours later, the sun came out. It was classic Josh. The sun shone. The snow melted. The temps popped from forties to seventies (at least in the sun). And it was perfect for climbing.

So Peter and Hamish told me it was too "hot" to climb, and they took a nap.


Josh is sounding pretty sweet about now. How's thing going down there Rolf?
MH2

climber
Jan 4, 2014 - 08:26am PT
Thanks for the re-post. Has the feel of M. John Harrison's Climberz.

I only fell 10 feet in a swami.

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 4, 2014 - 08:46am PT
Funny story for from yesterday. There was a thick inversion layer first thing and you could see from the valley that there was a slim posibility that the Chiefs summit might be above it. Up I went through the dank, wet murk and fog then blow me down - sure enough the final 100 meters break free of the layer into the blue sky and sun!

Almost immediately I notice a slight tendency to slipping, which I chock up to slime and the odd patch of glacier polish.... until half way up I grab a tree branch - covered in ice! So that was it! Completely invisible but slicker than snot, a thin layer of ice had formed under the clear skies on the final lap. I was freaked just enough to convince myself to turn back.... when i hear a voice above, some old timer from Lions Bay it turms out.

At this point I fall prey to heuristic trap numbah 5 ( Ian MacCammon, 2004):

Social facilitation is a decisional heuristic where the
presence of other people enhances or attenuates risk-
taking by a subject, depending on the subject’s
confidence in their risk taking skills. In other words,
when a person or group is confident in their skills, they
will tend to take more risks using those skills when
other people are present than they would when others are absent.

Up I go but holy fuk despite the low angle the potential for a ride for life exists. Ed ( the guy above) does the last "pitch" ( the glacier polish arrete - 15 degree steepness) on his hands and knees. I notice that the more easterly aspect of the "summit pyramid" has melted and it is also much more textured so I slay the beast in finer style. Another old guy crawls up and we shoot the sh#t a bit then someone mentions the unmentionable - getting down. Too cavalier for anything as low risk as waiting 20 minutes for the sun to do its work we set off. I'm particularly nervous as my running shoes are soled with recycled bleach bottles.

They reverse the hands and knees arrete but then - having read so much Tom Patey - I have a brain wave.... socked feet! Damned if it doesn't work - place socked foot on iced slab, wait 3 seconds, fabric of sock becomes securely welded to ice.... advance, repeat. Jabbering away like a bunch of kids out discovering climbing again with a clothes line we engineer our way down all soloing like Peter Croft. At the base we congratulate ourselves on our survival and part ways.

Every other party of hikers I pass on the way up - half of which appearing to have just left Metro town Mall - I advise "Icy up there".
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 4, 2014 - 09:00am PT
Epic Bruce!



Social facilitation would make a great route name.
MH2

climber
Jan 4, 2014 - 09:41am PT
Yah! That's why we find it easy to believe in the lemmings.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jan 4, 2014 - 12:09pm PT
On the topic of icey slopes, I recently did my annual ice climb. That is, if you can accept that top-roping some 3/4 ice really qualifies as ice climbing. As usual I ignored all previous experiences and carefully made resolutions, and ventured out to Paradice [sic] with my friend Kyle R. My main function was to act as Kyle's belayer, while he did laps--he is still young enough to actually enjoy this stuff. One lap was more than enough for me. The ice was getting punky, and the local ice season is likely over already.

Paul M and gf at Paradice.  Kootenay River behind.
Paul M and gf at Paradice. Kootenay River behind.
Credit: hamie

Kyle R doing laps, foolish lad.  Some of that nasty M stuff behind.
Kyle R doing laps, foolish lad. Some of that nasty M stuff behind.
Credit: hamie

As I have said many times before, "Being tired, cold and scared is not nearly as much fun as it used to be."
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2014 - 12:38pm PT
Awesome story Bruce!! Glad you came out unscathed!

Nice pics Hamie! Thanks for that!
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 4, 2014 - 01:03pm PT
Great post, Hamie. And Happy New Year to you.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 4, 2014 - 01:29pm PT
Hilarious stories !!! That climb on the Malemute called "old style" was named c'os Peter climbed it with sox over his EBs. Like you Bruce, we remembered Tom Patey and the sox-over-boots trick.

Kind of trashed the sox.

Ha.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 4, 2014 - 04:41pm PT
That climb on the Malemute called "old style" was named c'os Peter climbed it with sox over his EBs.

And here we thought it was just another boring beer climb!

Another spectacular day on the summit of the chief today. Still patches of water ice around - I wound up on my ass at one point and was actually glad for the chains too. Had a great chat with Robin and Splodge up there.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2014 - 05:44pm PT
Got your hike on again eh Bruce?

I went down to the bluffs to meet Kyle and Relic and shoot a few frames with my new toy.

14mm on full frame is pretty darn wide!



Kyle hit up a few routes and Relic found out his shoulder was still a bit sore, so ended up just belaying. After a while i got Kyle to fix me a rope and i got some shots of him on Yorkshire gripper.

Kyle on Yorkshire Gripper 11b


I got a few more too but i'm gonna wait till i get home and edit them a bit. I downloaded these two from my camera to my phone.. Technology. Pretty cool sometimes..
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 5, 2014 - 10:27am PT
Good stuff Mike! Talk to U in a bit.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 5, 2014 - 11:02am PT
Nice Mike ! Thanks again for the great card . Loads o' love to you & Sandra.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
You're welcome Tami. Love to you and phil too!

Too anyone that feels left out because they didn't get a card yet, sorry! There is just so many we want to do, and being that they are hand made and scripted, they take awhile. We hope to have them all out soon!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2014 - 03:58pm PT
It's another gorgeous day here in the Little Smoke Bluffs

Ryan warming up on Ridgerunner


Thekidcormier on belay
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 5, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
Gorgeous day in town here. Too bad the skiin' isn't better on the local hills. My brother & his wife said they had nice pow on Flute.

Who's the other chap in the shot with Luke? Shirtsleeves in the Bluffs in January!? Sweet !
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2014 - 04:20pm PT
It's kyle! Subject of many of my photos!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 5, 2014 - 05:19pm PT
Un- bearded Kyle strikes again.




Cool pics Mike, fun day!
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