Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 25, 2011 - 11:19pm PT
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So i thought i'd post a few of my photos and see if anyone else has anything to share!
How do i link photos straight from flickr?
Tami you are correct it is Kangaroo Corner. That spaceman is my the logo for my production company.
You were involved in the fa on this one no? Any stories?
Mike
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Sep 25, 2011 - 11:24pm PT
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Looks like Kangarooooo Corner. I think. Whuts with the space man in the lower left corner?
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Sep 25, 2011 - 11:29pm PT
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better than a shot of "Kangaroo Boner" Tami...
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Sep 25, 2011 - 11:35pm PT
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not my foto; poached from the spaznet.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 12:17am PT
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Last weekend it was a bit rainy so we headed out to Nightmare Rock at Murrin.
Luke wanted to lead Grandaddy overhang so he hung me a rope and i took pics for the pinkpoint attempt.
Yours truly cleaning the gear..
One of the drier 5.9's in Squamish on a rainy day, Big Daddy
It was pretty busy there.. a few randoms
My buddy kyle decided to lead the "Big Barn Door" 10c
no send unfortunatly. He lost a foot just after the crux
Nightmare is a fun place to go play on a rainy day!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 11:01am PT
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Thanks for posting up Coastal! I recognize the pillar, and the Buttress crux pitch!
Is that rurp riot aka dreamcatcher? What are the others?
Mike
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coastal_climber
Trad climber
British Columbia
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Sep 26, 2011 - 11:57am PT
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I'm not sure which aid line it is actually... haha
other photos are of me and a friend on C.Wall and myself on a .10b route near ronins corner
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 12:03pm PT
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More?
Me on pitch 3 Upper Echelon
Photo Credit Py Boivin
Photo Credit Luke Cormier
Last one isn't mine but i did a lot of work on it in photoshop.
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Sep 26, 2011 - 12:08pm PT
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Hey Big Mike - You look like you have the wingspan of an albatross :-) .
When did the first part of Sentry Box rate 5.10???HAHAHAHAHAHA We usedta call it 5.8. C'os it IS ! Grade-creep!!!!
Yes I was in on the FA of Kangaroo Corner. I named it that. Don't recall why. I wanna say Rolf R was with us too. He posts here as well. Maybe he remembers better then I do. It was - and is - a pretty short route but with some long reaches IIRC. I also think some of it fell down or it was modified and it got harder. But I might be wrong. 30 years have passed more or less since we did it !
We used to hang out at Nightmare Rock on rainy days too. Weed play (pun intended ) on BDO and GDO and what you call "barn door flake" - it wasn't named back then . Rainy day topropin' or aid climbing fun.
BDO was where we rigged a massive fall for David H ( posts here as Ghost ) for a telly commercial the summer of '80. Perry B, Peder O , Peter C all were in on it. David was spozed to fall about 25' and wound up going 50'.
IN a Whillan's.
Snicker.
Or should I say <affected little girl high pitch squeal> snicker!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
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Hey Coastal, that "10b" is Desperado and it goes at 10c in the Mclane book.
Your one in the south gully looks to be close to Rock On but i don't remember those moves so it must be bad pants or something else in that area.
Tami you are right, at 6'7 my wingspan is quite large, which is probably why i prefer trad and not so much short boulder moves. It gets tough when your butt starts hanging way out there.
What did you guys rate Kangaroo? 11a? probably not. Dunno about Sentry Box.. Mclane guide is where i get my beta and he's had it that way since the 2001 guide at least.. I haven't led it yet so can't comment.
You'll be glad to hear that the lettuce hasn't fallen out of style at the crag :)
50 footer at Nightmare eh? That woulda been a big whip, especially for that area!
Thanks for the stories! They are always better from the "horse's mouth"
(NOT calling you a horse!) :)
Edit: Shame about the zip.. Took my first upside down lead fall there after I stupidly hooked my foot... Shook me up a bit but taught me a valuable lesson. Hopefully the muni can figure out some kinda compromise.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 26, 2011 - 01:09pm PT
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50 footer at Nightmare eh? That woulda been a big whip, especially for that area!
Just imagine yourself as a non-climbing cinematographer. You're lying on your back on top of a big boulder, planning to shoot straight up, waiting for some idiot to fall from directly above you. You've been told nothing can go wrong because the badass climbers (who all seem to be about nineteen years old) have rigged it so the guy falling will stop after about 25 or 30 feet. Since you're almost 60 feet below him, you convince yourself that it's going to be okay.
Then he's airborne and falling. And falling. And falling. Coming to a stop just a few feet above the spot where you've just sh#t your pants.
He (the camera dude) wasn't real happy when the director said they'd have to do another take.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 01:37pm PT
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Ghost! ROFL!!!!
I was thinking that a 50 footer would be really close to the ground! :)
Good thing no camera guy pancake! I'm guessing the second one was a bit shorter :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 04:44pm PT
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One more of Kangaroo
edit: Figured out img tags!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Sep 26, 2011 - 05:09pm PT
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thanks for the photos. Haven't thought about Center Street forever. It looks a bit grassy in your second photo. I don't remember why, but I took a pretty good fall on that route one day a long time ago.
The Zip is a beautiful crack. I remember my partner Steve taking me down there and I was thinking "all these beautiful walls why are we groveling around in this shady swamp?". But it was worth it. Climbed it many times and it might be my hardest free solo (after having wired it).
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
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Hey Mike,
You are welcome. Crag X is a little under used these days. It could definetly use a good scrub.. Maybe if i have some spare time this fall.
Interesting story about the Zip... Two of my buddies went to lead it this year and after sending found that they were marooned by the tide! Apparently things got a little wet on the way out :)
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Sep 26, 2011 - 05:25pm PT
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Here's a team on the Sword this Summer:
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!