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Messages 6561 - 6580 of total 7717 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Dec 27, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
Ooooh, Bubba wrote a book !

Nice pix Mike. :-) !!!
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 27, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
Here's a little TR from my trip to Squamish this past August. My first time, and certainly not my last. We're already shopping for plane tickets, and talking to friends who live in Valleycliffe about crashing on their couch!

First things first...hit this area up before even going into town.
First things first...hit this area up before even going into town.
Credit: Grippa
Credit: Grippa
Made the Bluffs circuit
Made the Bluffs circuit
Credit: Grippa
Credit: Grippa
Credit: Grippa
Kristin's favorite pitch of the trip. El Zip
Kristin's favorite pitch of the trip. El Zip
Credit: Grippa
Used to camping in the desert...this is a little different.
Used to camping in the desert...this is a little different.
Credit: Grippa
Credit: Grippa
Pretty steep hike. P1 of Diedre
Pretty steep hike. P1 of Diedre
Credit: Grippa
Credit: Grippa
Random french canadian babe on Apron Strings.
Random french canadian babe on Apron Strings.
Credit: Grippa
Marc Andre LeClerc
Marc Andre LeClerc
Credit: Grippa
Didn't send this try, but I'm sure he's hiked it by now or had in the ...
Didn't send this try, but I'm sure he's hiked it by now or had in the past.
Credit: Grippa
Microlife
Microlife
Credit: Grippa
Bath time in Brohm lake.
Bath time in Brohm lake.
Credit: Grippa
Credit: Grippa
Waiting for the party above to get their sh#t together.
Waiting for the party above to get their sh#t together.
Credit: Grippa
Favorite of the trip.
Favorite of the trip.
Credit: Grippa
My favorite pitch of the trip &#40;of course&#41;...
My favorite pitch of the trip (of course)...
Credit: Grippa
Birds
Birds
Credit: Grippa
Welp we f*#ked this up. Next trip up we went the right way!
Welp we f*#ked this up. Next trip up we went the right way!
Credit: Grippa
Rest day hike
Rest day hike
Credit: Grippa
Finished it off with some Howe Sounds brewery grub, and watching the w...
Finished it off with some Howe Sounds brewery grub, and watching the wind shredders shred.
Credit: Grippa
MH2

climber
Dec 27, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
Great TouR, Grippa.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Dec 27, 2013 - 09:58pm PT
You liked Exasperator best? Noice :-D !!

Great pix. Thanks for puttin'em here.
Rolfr

Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
Dec 27, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
Sorry guys Power Windows 11B/C ? That's grade creep! Always has been 11A and will always be 11A. Great route with a healthy little runout to the arete but the crux moves are well protected and just 5.11A. I repeated it often and seconded it with Ivan just after Jimmy put it up , 11A period.

When Dale Tale put up TGWBG there was an intermediate belay that Robin B chopped years later, that belay avoided a hard ledge fall if you blew the crux. Someone should go back and replace it.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 27, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
I repeated it often and with Ivan just after Jimmy put it up , 11A period.


If you repeat it so often you must have it down to 5.9 by now Rolf!

Personally, I figure its 12c at least.
Rolfr

Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
Dec 27, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
Bruce if it was in JT it just may be!
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Dec 27, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
i remember saying something about the traversing alternate start being 11b/c Big Mike mighta gotten them mixed up
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 27, 2013 - 11:56pm PT
Said Chief on another thread when I asked him if he's done it:



power windows- classic sb featureless wasteland

I've reused the description countless times since :-)


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2013 - 02:46am PT
evolving style
Ya, based on my physical abilities and lately the lack of my rebel which i somehow misplaced on the way home from Yosemite.. I'm in the market for a full frame this time, but i'm finding it quite prohibitively expensive so we'll see if i can swing it. I figure i like to shoot wide, so i might as well get the widest sensor i can get, but 1500 or so for a canon 14mm is a bit much..

Thanks guys!

Nice pix grippa! Thanks!! Glad you enjoyed Squamish!

My bad on Power Windows. I was at home in CR without a reference.. i also didn't climb it that day so i didn't remember the grade.. Sorry! ;)

When Dale Tale put up TGWBG there was an intermediate belay that Robin B chopped years later, that belay avoided a hard ledge fall if you blew the crux. Someone should go back and replace it.

What was the story on the name? Any beta on that? ;)

Robin chopped em eh? Just like the ones he chopped on his new routes at tunnel.. Ahh politics. What a shame.



Edit: Great buddy! You?
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 28, 2013 - 03:00am PT
Yank Bump!

Howzit Mike?

Edit- nice touch, grippa.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 28, 2013 - 03:42am PT
Oh & cool pics grippa! (Edit- and Big Mike!!!!!!!!!)

I remember u saying that u were gonna be up, glad u had fun!



I think teenage girls is gud without the belay, makes a full pitch. Multi pitching on penny lane seems best avoided. Love that climb though, super cool jugs up top! I heard Anders was actually the chopper there?


On that note rolfr,, A new to me climb I did at penny lane recently called grumpy old men had a similar feel as to fall potential/bolt placement relative to cruxes/rests as teenage girls with some wandery climbing & ledgy stances. We did it as a warm up not really knowing what it was & found it to be a cool route with fun, technical climbing & a cool crux up top, & a sandbag for a warmup. What's the story with the name on that one? Was somebody on the FA team havin a rough day??

Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 28, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
Thanks guys! Freakin luvvvvvv Squam and environs.Now that we truly ticked the classics I can't wait to visit again, and do some longer stuff along with more obscure routes.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 4, 2014 - 11:13am PT
Saw this from kik on the whippers on Swami's thread:


ok-- since we aren't getting big stories--

1982 winter. i'm in jtree, in my k-mart sleeping bag and mec bivouac bag. no car, no bike, no food, no likker, nos crib. it snow, epic, at least for jtree, monumental-- maybe a bit more than a foot. i wake up and hv is empty. no rangers, no tourists, no climbers. i put on all the clothes i own and crawl up on top of a boulder.

hours pass. the snow falls.

i wake up to a big "CRASH." a tiny beater car has careened into the dumpster at the "cube" campsite. it sits there for maybe three or four minutes. then the passenger gets out, looks at the front of the car/rock, and returns. a few minutes later, the driver gets out, checks the damage, then returns.

i'm freezing. but i notice the BC plates on the beater. since i used to live in Vancouver, and learned to climb in Squamish (which has maybe 17 climbers total), it's a safe bet I know the owner. So I climb down, knock on the window, and sure enuf, it's Peter and Hamish. I pile into the car to prevent frostbite (trying to ignore the lettuce atmosphere and endless homophobic/philic jokes nttawwt)and wait out the storm.

me: This blows.
peter: If it stops snowing, we'll climb.

and climb we did. It heated up to at least 38 degrees and so we drove off to Wangerbanger (since something that faced northeast was clearly indicated) and Peter led it. He looked just slightly less than south of casual, and that was a warning sign. Hamish declined to follow. So I tied in and cast off.

ten feet up my hands were numb. i kept stuffing them into the crack. but I had no idea what they were doing. it was as if someone had surgically attached chunks of defrosting horsemeat to my wrists. i pitched. and the top-rope jammed.

(HERE IS THE SWAMI PART) Peter had f*#ked up the anchor. So there I was, swinging in the winter breeze, numb, hungry, cold, sober and in serious pain, and yet only twenty feet off the deck and no one to witness my heroic sacrifice.

I held out my frozen meat hooks, and Hamish, while holding down the belay, valiantly tried to toss up a runner. God knows how cold he must have been. It was like the ringtoss at the circus. Meanwhile, Peter ran up top to fix the clusterf*#k. Finally, I speared the runner, inverted, and executed the baboon hang which I had seen only in Ament's "Rockwise" (as demonstrated at Horsetooth Reservoir.) Peter got to the belay; I pulled in for along enuf to fix the damn thing; and lowered off.

A few hours later, the sun came out. It was classic Josh. The sun shone. The snow melted. The temps popped from forties to seventies (at least in the sun). And it was perfect for climbing.

So Peter and Hamish told me it was too "hot" to climb, and they took a nap.


Josh is sounding pretty sweet about now. How's thing going down there Rolf?
MH2

climber
Jan 4, 2014 - 11:26am PT
Thanks for the re-post. Has the feel of M. John Harrison's Climberz.

I only fell 10 feet in a swami.

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 4, 2014 - 11:46am PT
Funny story for from yesterday. There was a thick inversion layer first thing and you could see from the valley that there was a slim posibility that the Chiefs summit might be above it. Up I went through the dank, wet murk and fog then blow me down - sure enough the final 100 meters break free of the layer into the blue sky and sun!

Almost immediately I notice a slight tendency to slipping, which I chock up to slime and the odd patch of glacier polish.... until half way up I grab a tree branch - covered in ice! So that was it! Completely invisible but slicker than snot, a thin layer of ice had formed under the clear skies on the final lap. I was freaked just enough to convince myself to turn back.... when i hear a voice above, some old timer from Lions Bay it turms out.

At this point I fall prey to heuristic trap numbah 5 ( Ian MacCammon, 2004):

Social facilitation is a decisional heuristic where the
presence of other people enhances or attenuates risk-
taking by a subject, depending on the subjectís
confidence in their risk taking skills. In other words,
when a person or group is confident in their skills, they
will tend to take more risks using those skills when
other people are present than they would when others are absent.

Up I go but holy fuk despite the low angle the potential for a ride for life exists. Ed ( the guy above) does the last "pitch" ( the glacier polish arrete - 15 degree steepness) on his hands and knees. I notice that the more easterly aspect of the "summit pyramid" has melted and it is also much more textured so I slay the beast in finer style. Another old guy crawls up and we shoot the sh#t a bit then someone mentions the unmentionable - getting down. Too cavalier for anything as low risk as waiting 20 minutes for the sun to do its work we set off. I'm particularly nervous as my running shoes are soled with recycled bleach bottles.

They reverse the hands and knees arrete but then - having read so much Tom Patey - I have a brain wave.... socked feet! Damned if it doesn't work - place socked foot on iced slab, wait 3 seconds, fabric of sock becomes securely welded to ice.... advance, repeat. Jabbering away like a bunch of kids out discovering climbing again with a clothes line we engineer our way down all soloing like Peter Croft. At the base we congratulate ourselves on our survival and part ways.

Every other party of hikers I pass on the way up - half of which appearing to have just left Metro town Mall - I advise "Icy up there".
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 4, 2014 - 12:00pm PT
Epic Bruce!



Social facilitation would make a great route name.
MH2

climber
Jan 4, 2014 - 12:41pm PT
Yah! That's why we find it easy to believe in the lemmings.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jan 4, 2014 - 03:09pm PT
On the topic of icey slopes, I recently did my annual ice climb. That is, if you can accept that top-roping some 3/4 ice really qualifies as ice climbing. As usual I ignored all previous experiences and carefully made resolutions, and ventured out to Paradice [sic] with my friend Kyle R. My main function was to act as Kyle's belayer, while he did laps--he is still young enough to actually enjoy this stuff. One lap was more than enough for me. The ice was getting punky, and the local ice season is likely over already.

Paul M and gf at Paradice.  Kootenay River behind.
Paul M and gf at Paradice. Kootenay River behind.
Credit: hamie

Kyle R doing laps, foolish lad.  Some of that nasty M stuff behind.
Kyle R doing laps, foolish lad. Some of that nasty M stuff behind.
Credit: hamie

As I have said many times before, "Being tired, cold and scared is not nearly as much fun as it used to be."
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2014 - 03:38pm PT
Awesome story Bruce!! Glad you came out unscathed!

Nice pics Hamie! Thanks for that!
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