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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2015 - 04:39pm PT
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I've never really heard rockfall while climbing on the Chief, so i would say it is definitely abnormal to hear it. If i heard stuff falling down like Richard did that morning i'd think twice about climbing there that day..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2015 - 08:58pm PT
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Nice story Jim. I seem to remember having some shrapnel fall on us when we were at Exasperator too.. Maybe i'm just blocking out all the close calls? :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2015 - 09:08pm PT
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A friend sent me these images from the toe of the slide today.
It looks like it's a warzone up there...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2015 - 01:00pm PT
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Bump
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Apr 22, 2015 - 01:19pm PT
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Nice images, Big Mike! Thanks! I'm curios if any of Alaska Highway got smashed. That MUST have been affected.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 24, 2015 - 01:45pm PT
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FWIW last major rockfall I am aware of in this area came from up and left of the current scar, more or less directly above Gone Surfing, in January 1999: see p.281 of the 2001 McLane guide.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Apr 25, 2015 - 01:23am PT
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On the subject of Alaska Highway, looks like it will dry pretty quickly now there's no tree cover around it.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 26, 2015 - 05:43pm PT
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Yesterday, I had a view (thru the telescope, near to the Brew Pub) of the detached pillar on Blazing Saddles. It almost looks as if it's more tipped out now.
Every time I've climbed Blazing Saddles, I've thought about the permanence of that thing.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 26, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
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Yikes! Doesn't look like there is much holding that up. Stem very gently...
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Apr 28, 2015 - 03:47pm PT
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Scanning some old slides from a Squamish trip. Anyone know what these routes are?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
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Steve- the second one is one of the slab routes to the left of of Jacob's othe ladder at the Malemute i think. Not sure about the first..
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Apr 28, 2015 - 04:35pm PT
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Is the first maybe Magic Carpet Ride? On the way to Skywalker..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2015 - 04:48pm PT
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Mcr doesn't have dykes like that does it?
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Apr 28, 2015 - 05:07pm PT
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Ya you're right.. no seams. Maybe somewhere around Sunblessed.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Apr 28, 2015 - 07:05pm PT
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Some more pics...from 2002 or so...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 29, 2015 - 11:47am PT
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Last pic is High Plains Drifter
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 29, 2015 - 11:50am PT
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The other unidentified one with the clean streak and then the right-trending dike is Lost Horizon at Seal Cove
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Here are some more pics of the rockfall area under the North walls. Took a hike up there a few days ago with a friend of mine to poke around, check the condition of the routes in the area, and be awed by the forces of nature.
Half way up the Angel's Crest / North Gully trail, there starts to be a few rogue missiles that made it a long ways into the forest.
Lots of blowdown and carnage at the edges of the impact and air-blast area.
Fewer and fewer stumps as you get higher. Looks like photos of heavily shelled areas in WW2.
Into the meat of the main impact area. Pretty much nothing of the forest remains.
Standing in a crater, looking up Angel's Crest and the North Gully from a point of view not available a week and a half ago.Very cool to see the steep wall at the top of the gully in profile.
The biggest intact nugget that we could find. Around 4x4x3m=approx 50 cubic metres = approx 135 metric tons! That would be a good part of the shaking we felt in Valleycliff!
Looking downhill from the top of the big chunk.
The start of Alaska Highway looks relatively untouched with the exception of the stepped area where you pull up on the hand line. The approach ledges over to Parallel Passages was blasted, although the routes over there seem to have been just left of the carnage.
Looking Northeast from the base of Angel's Crest. The tree-climb start took a bit of a hit. Maybe half of the branches that you would have pulled on are damaged or missing, but it's still doable. The face-climbing start that Barley put up about ten years ago looks unscathed, except that it's covered in dirt from the dust cloud that came down.
Just a bit lower down, beside the original start to AC. Lots of trees blown outwards by the air blast, but not too much shrapnel.
Lots of obstacles where the regular trail pops out around the toe of the buttress.
Trail markers in this area are somewhat obsolete now... The tree still standing is two feet in diameter at it's base, but is sheared off cleanly 15 feet up.
Just a friendly little reminder from Mother Nature that geological time is now! ;)
Kris
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2015 - 10:38am PT
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Wow Kris! It's a warzone up there hey? Thanks for the pics. I take it the closure has been resinded?
Steve- who is your "old friend" in the picture? He looks very familiar.
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