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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2014 - 10:46am PT
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Okay so carry on. Great pix Mike. I don't think you need snow for ice to form in the Bluffs tho'. Plenty of weepage but, yes, snow makes for quite a bit more ice.
True, true. I haven't seen much but i didn't go anywhere other than penny yesterday too...
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Dec 31, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2014 - 10:56am PT
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Cool pic Rolf!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 31, 2014 - 11:17am PT
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Losing Fury Creek is more than made up for the Home for the Insane.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 31, 2014 - 11:18am PT
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I heard The Lions were going to be called Sheba's Breasts.
Yup. Sheba's Paps was how it was originally used. Also Queen Sheba's Breasts, probably a reference to H. Rider Haggard's Ing Solomon's Mines, published in 1885 and popular ever since.
Even earlier was The Sisters, a name that was in use, occasionally, into the early 1900s. The name survives today in Sisters Creek, which drains from the Lions into Capilano River.
The term Lions was introduced about 1890 by a Judge Gray, who obviously thought breasts were too spicy for his taste. He noticed the
resemblance, rather striking, actually, to the Lions at the base of Nelson’s column in Trafalgar Square.
He suggested the entrance to Vancouver harbour be called “The Lions’ Gate”
(an allusion to San Francisco’s Golden Gate?), and clearly the origin of the name for the Lions Gate Bridge.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 31, 2014 - 11:27am PT
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Another year done, another coming up. Time to look ahead, and a time to reflect on the past. Looking ahead, here is my New Year resolution, one which I have had for a long time, and is likely shared by others on the Taco. "Must climb more, must climb more, must....."
Looking back, I am reminded that 50 years ago I spent the month of December, 1964 in Yosemite [and several months in 1965 as well]. Most climbs went well, but not all of them. One less than spectacular success was an attempted winter ascent of the north face of the Rostrum, with Bridwell. Since our approach shoes were the same as our rock shoes, we took them off to cross the Merced. By the time we reached the other side our ankles were creaking audibly from the cold [yes, true!].
Here's to good times, past and future.
Yes, it was cold....
Sledding in Camp 4.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 31, 2014 - 11:28am PT
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I believe Bruce Ramsay was a newspaper reporter. He wrote several books on BC history. I think he had a sense of whimsy and humour. I'll post something on Judge Howay and Robie Reid later, probably. But now it's time to get out of the house and go for a good long walk. It's gorgeous outside.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 31, 2014 - 11:30am PT
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Hi Hamie,
Sounds like quite a New Year in Yosemite 50 years ago. And now, today, guys are freeing the Dawn Wall, would you believe. Times change.
Climb more next year: good advice for all. Happy New Year!
Glenn
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 31, 2014 - 02:27pm PT
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Also Queen Sheba's Breasts, probably a reference to H. Rider Haggard's Ing Solomon's Mines, published in 1885 and popular ever since.
Sheba's boobs were referenced in the Bible, actually.
It's a two-parter. Solomon is visited by the Queen of Sheba, and he gives her "all that she desires".
Then you have the Song of Songs, aka the Song of Solomon, wherein we find the line (variously translated)
"Thy two breasts are like two fawns that are twins of a gazelle, which feed among the lilies."
The inference is that this woman whose breasts are celebrated is the Queen of Sheba. Hence the rider Haggard mountains The Breasts of Sheba are named after this passage.
So while the Lions reference might be to King Solomon's Mines, it might well be directly to the Bible, too, since that's what the name in KSM refers to.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 31, 2014 - 02:44pm PT
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Yes indeed, Dru, but my reading says that the name was prompted by the Rider Haggard novel. He was probably more widely read at the time than the Bible. Using popular literature as a source of inspiration for peak names isn't a new phenomenon.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 09:39am PT
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Happy New Year Jim!!
Sandra and I went to the city yesterday to see my buddy Brandon who's in vgh. He had a similar injury to me and is currently facing the long road to recovery.
We stopped at timmie's on the way and the Grand Wall was shining.
Hope everyone had a great New Year!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Hey Glenn
Yes, times change:
NIAD
Nose freed.
Nose in 2:20 and change.
U Wall free-solo.
290 pitches IAD.
And all those enchainments......
It also seems as if the weather has changed a lot as well. No surprise there! It's now early Jan, and the climbers on Free Dawn appear to be wearing t-shirts. In 1964 we were wearing sweaters by the end of Nov, and were leading in down jackets by mid Dec. By the end of Dec-early Jan it was all over. More than a foot of snow on the ground, verglas on the rocks and cold, cold, cold. I hung on for another week or so, waiting for Gordie to show up. Then it was off to the Pinnacles for a few days with Bridwell hosting us [nice and warm there], and then on south to the volcanoes in Mexico, and the Cordillera Blanca in Peru.
El Cap Tom has pointed out some similarities between the Free Dawn and Harding's FA of the Nose. I wonder if there really is such a big difference between the old "seige" tactics of returning to the ground between attempts, and today's "single push" tactics where you return to a well stocked portable ledge every night. This thread has been dragging its a##. That might get some reaction!
"Must climb more". Is that a mantra or a resolution? Or both? Anders would know.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Hi Hamish,
Happy New Year to you! I'm not much on mantras, so I guess I mean "must climb more" as a resolution, or exhortation to myself. I can drag myself up things; it's the getting down that kills my knees.
I hope 2015 is a good year for all. The last half of 2014 was pretty crappy for me, but there were some very bright spots, too.
Best wishes, and keep on climbing,
Glenn
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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As long as there are bright spots, or the possibility of bright spots, or delusions of bright spots, life can be called worth living, with whatever degree of temerity you deem inoffensive to whatever gods may be. And maybe they will put a gondola on the Chief? For the knees!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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And maybe they will put a gondola on the Chief? A gondola? Over my dead knees! Yes, life is worth living!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Lembert Dome?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Does look like Slab Alley.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Frankie's Tradster?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Finally! Slab Alley.
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