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RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 24, 2014 - 12:48am PT
Of course Mike, u get out there today??



Thanks for the info Tami, Ha! Love hearing tales of these anonymous adventurers :-)

Thanks for the link too!



Oh & my guidebook/grading comment was more a weak attempt to troll the particular author out of the shadows than anything. Maybe claiming that seasoned in the sun is a soft 5.9 that the last 10' aren't worth climbing would have been a better tactic.....
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 01:51am PT
You mean Ander's Bum? :) it would be nice to hear from MH.

Yeah, Kyle and i got out.

It was busy!! We went down to the Lybia Sucks area so i could lead my first free pitch in over a year!!
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Mar 24, 2014 - 09:38am PT
Yeeeeaaaaahhhhhoooooo Mikey!!!!!

MH2

climber
Mar 24, 2014 - 11:04am PT
OoooooooohYeah!


Maybe I see a Peder Ourom clean-up in that pic.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 24, 2014 - 11:26am PT
Hey, you see the crack/seam over near the left edge of that pic?

That's the long-lost/long-ignored Rugosite, 10d. Only appears in the Campbell guide iirc.

As fer Anvil Island I hiked up there with a big crew 10 years ago or so. Fun winter day. The rock on the summit's not granite - it's part of the Gambier Formation. I remember seeing some steep, pocketed walls that screamed out for bolted treatment except for the approach.

There are some great sea cliffs on Anvil that you can kayak or canoe to and climb. Mostly Kloochmanesque traversing rather than straight up DWS. Mix of granite and Gambier Fmn.


View west from the summit
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 12:42pm PT
Wooo hooo!! Great eyes Dru. I'm pretty sure i know someone that will be interested in that 10d.

Here's a couple more pics from yesterday.

Kyle downsoloing the new Sinclair/Ourum scrub job.


He soloed all my leads! Lol
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 12:59pm PT
Kyle wanted to try Sweet and Sour 10c which is much nicer now, sans tree at the start. He pulled off the crux somehow, even though i thought he was going to fall at any moment. He didn't find the bolt after the upper corner though??

I toproped it and had some trouble at the crux. I ended up having to invent my own beta after getting extremly frustrated trying kyle's.

Then Kyle floated Short and Sweet, and i found the hardest part was unclipping the
anchor and soloing the 5 feet to the top of burgers. (Don't fall Mike!!) ;)
I might go back and stick some hangers with rap rings to save someone else that experience.

Kyle needed a challenge, so he hit up Assholes of November 11b


He didn't get any farther then the first bolt however and ended up lowering off my nut tool. A trick i will probably never try after hearing the flexing sound it made when someone 100 pounds lighter than me weigthed it. ;)
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 24, 2014 - 05:08pm PT
My bad, Rugosite is in the most recent McLane guide, albeit so vaguely described that you'd have no idea where it is.

There's a nearby climb in the Campbell guide - Take it to the Ligaments - on a lower tier, below Rugosite and towards High Cliff from Alexis - which I don't think anyone has found or climbed since the 80s. Maybe it'll get dug out and rediscovered one of these days.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 06:37pm PT
I had to get my passport renewed and Sandra wanted to grab a few things so we're shopping today. I would really like to have time to visit everyone down here too, but it just doesn't work like that.

It's more like this: Run around and do everything you've been putting off for the last couple months, barely make it to the last store on time, then hit up superstore on the way home. It's tedious, but that's the price of living in whistler i guess.

Anyways point is i just happened to notice this travesty. It's been previously discussed on this thread.


Such a shame...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 25, 2014 - 01:49am PT
What's up Mike? Golf is legit dude!!



Credit: RyanD
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 25, 2014 - 01:52am PT
Oplopanax, thanks for the info. Is there any access issues? I hear it's owned by A bible camp or something? Cool pic from the summit though, that's a nice view.


Oh, & great job getting out on the sharp end Mike! Really awesome to hear that.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2014 - 03:05am PT
Thanks Ryan! Man it just kills me to see that beautiful wall covered in golf bags.

In other news, don't bother going to mec to buy climbing shoes if you have size 13 feet. They didn't even have 1 pair in my size. Thoroughly disgusted is how i feel about that..
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 25, 2014 - 01:32pm PT
Access to Anvil Island works like this: there is a public dock at the south end of the island, but the land beyond is private. Most landowners do not allow access but the Bible camp caretaker will let you through for $25 per head (2004 rate, may have changed). A good,marked trail canbe followed from there to the summit. If you are renting a water taxi to get your crew of hikers to Anvil, this is your only viable option.

There's also free access, but no dock, on the east side, if you have your own boat. Land your canoe or kayak on the bouldery beach right where the creek on the east side flows into the ocean. Very steep flagged route runs up the north (climbers right) side of this creek to south of the summit and joins in with the trail from bible camp here.


Final route to the summit (pic) wraps around the west side (left in pic) and scrambles up easy steps on the north ridge.

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 25, 2014 - 02:45pm PT
That's cool, thanks for the beta.



Hiking with bearded Kyle.
Hiking with bearded Kyle.
Credit: RyanD
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Mar 26, 2014 - 01:31am PT
I was in the local used book store today, checking out the climbing section, and spotted a couple of books which may interest someone down there. I already have my own copies of both.

Anders' guidebook. $40-. In immaculate condition. Looks like it was never even read. Definitely never used in the field.

Smaill's guidebook. $25-. In very good shape. This book is unusual, and may appeal to some collector types, as inside the cover it is inscribed:

Eric Bjornstad
Paquette, Wis.

Note that this is an inscription, not a signature. As our more mature readers will recall, Eric made a number of FAs at Squish with Uncle Fred, way BITD--before becoming the Great Guru of the Desert.

If anyone is interested in purchasing either or both of these items, send me a PM or post on the site. We could likely work out a way for me to buy them and mail them to you. The Smaill book is a good deal, if you are into that sort of stuff. They should go to Squish afficianados.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 26, 2014 - 02:16am PT
Hamie!!! I'll take them both, sending u a pm right now.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Mar 26, 2014 - 02:18am PT
Sold to the man in the corner, smoking two cigars!

You snooze, you lose.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2014 - 03:40am PT
Sweet pic of Kyle on Bpeel Ryan! So jelly!! Damn i can't wait to get back up there!!

Nice to hear from you Hamie! I can't wait to check out that Smail guide!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 26, 2014 - 01:53pm PT
I met Eric B in SLC at the tradeshow there about 15 yrs ago. Total character.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 26, 2014 - 02:22pm PT
That pic makes Banana Peel look badass, which I thought was impossible.
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