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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Dec 26, 2014 - 08:21pm PT
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Thanks Rolph, it seems that it is common practice these days to climb both pitches in one. That lunge to the right has to be one of the most fun moves the smoke bluffs has ever challenged me with..
Whata vision!!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 28, 2014 - 11:31pm PT
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I Could have put this on Big Mike's Silhouette thread, but I really love the Squamish thread and it's time for a bump. So here it is. Sorry about the crap on the photo: that's how it is.
Squamish, obviously, but can anyone identify the pitch?Hint: it's a 1961 photo and there weren't that many routes then. But which pitch? And, yes, it is a run out as it seems.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 29, 2014 - 12:34am PT
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Looks a lot like Tony on the ------ pitch of ---------. Definitely not Slab Alley this time.
I think that I was belaying him?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 29, 2014 - 12:53am PT
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Although this looks a lot like Slab Alley, it is actually the 2nd asc of Big Daddy.
Hanging from a tipped-in tied-off knifeblade.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2014 - 10:33am PT
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I'm coming up blank on this one.. It looks like something in one of the gullies.. Is it flipped possibly?
Always nice to see you gentlemen post here. Thanks for everything you've contributed.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 29, 2014 - 10:35am PT
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No not flipped, and definitely not Slab Alley....
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 29, 2014 - 10:39am PT
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I think it's one of the gullies too. Maybe the FA of South South?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 29, 2014 - 10:43am PT
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Maybe NN aręte or wrist twister? The cloudy background makes it that much more cryptic.
Great shots gents.
Edit- not NN aręte, Oplopanax may be on to something
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 29, 2014 - 10:44am PT
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It's the South Gully, on left wall (climber's left), where you can avoid the 2nd and gigantic chockstone by going onto the left wall. (On the right wall are bush ledges that lead onto the Squam Buttress.) I don't think anyone does this variant these days.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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That makes sense. I was trying to think of a climb that would be on that left wall. I've never actually climbed the south gully, just all around it..
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 29, 2014 - 11:40am PT
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I've never actually climbed the south gully, just all around it..
Smart move...
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 29, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
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And didn't Furry Creek used to be Fury Creek?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2014 - 04:17pm PT
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Fury creek? It is now! ;)
I would like to do the south gully, if only to look up at the prow from below..
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 29, 2014 - 05:03pm PT
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And didn't Furry Creek used to be Fury Creek? From a short article I wrote a few years ago:
Trappers and prospectors explored the area before 1900. In 1898, Oliver Furry (~1855-1905), an illiterate trapper, staked the first claims to what would eventually become the Britannia Mine. Soon the area from the Stawamus and Indian Rivers south to the headwaters of the Capilano and Seymour Rivers was crawling with prospectors. Furry’s name was given a few years later to Furry Creek, and many lakes and creeks in the region were named for the some of the resulting mineral claims.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2014 - 12:01am PT
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It was gorgeous today. I managed to get down to the bluffs to hang with the boys.
Connor, Kieran and Kyle enjoying some rays.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 31, 2014 - 09:12am PT
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Thanks Tricouni. I value this thread even when it reins in rather than feeds the imagination.
In A River Runs Through It Norman Maclean gives an example or two of colourful place names being prettified well before real estate developers standardized the practice.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Dec 31, 2014 - 10:16am PT
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Thank good some places still appreciate politically incorrect humour, Todd Gordon just named his last two routes "Spooky Boobs" and " Metallic Foreskin", thank you, I take credit for the last route name suggestion, based off the colour of a friends car.
Happy New year to everyone, have a great evening.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2014 - 10:22am PT
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No ice yet Tami! Need some snow on the cliffs for that to happen!
Kieran was working on Sunny Days in December.
He really wants to climb it in December.
Splitter weather yesterday.
I was having fun with the moon..
Balaclava Brownie
Kyle
Khyber got to hang too!
I think i slightly dislocated my pinkie on the opening move of crime...
It still hurts today. Gonna rest it this time.. Might try a slab route today tho..
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Dec 31, 2014 - 10:32am PT
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Thanks Tricouni. I value this thread even when it reins in rather than feeds the imagination.
I always value this thread! But I don't think knowing about the origin of place names reins in the imagination. Instead, it opens vistas. For instance, with Furry Creek we know this name goes back to 1901. From the BCGNS site we find:
"... Oliver Furry, illiterate trapper....had a cabin on McNab Creek. In 1898 he went into association with W.A. Clark to stake the first 5 claims of Britannia, thence into partnership with Leo Boscowitz, from which partnership documents indicate Furry was to receive a non-assessable 50% interest in the claims. The document was signed with a rubber stamp "Boscowitz and Sons". The Boscowitz family subsequently attempted to limit Furry's interest, producing an unsigned document that reduced Furry's interest from 50% to 20%. A lawsuit developed and it became clear that Oliver Furry had a limited understanding of these financial arrangements, and was easily confused. In 1905 Furry was committed to the Essondale Home for the Insane, and died there later that year. Ira Furry, representing his deceased brother, with Joseph Martin KC as legal council, appealed the decision of a lower court to the Supreme Court of Canada: the rubber stamp was legal, but the unsigned document was not, hence Furry retained a 50% interest in the Britannia Copper Syndicate. (additional information in The Coast News 20 January 1955, "Furry Creek Has its Past"; and in "Britannia: The Story of a Mine" by Bruce Ramsey, Agency Press, Vancouver 1967)."
Isn't this name, in a way, reflective of the behavior of the extractive industries in BC over the last 100 years? Did Furry get screwed? And what about the First Nations people, who don't enter into this variant of the story?
At the head of Furry Creek we have Phyllis and Marion Lakes. Who were they? Wives? daughters? girlfriends? hookers? prospectors? We don't know: the women so often get mentioned by their first names only, and that's the story of another chapter in the history of the last century, and more.
Happy New Year to all those on this thread!
Glenn
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