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Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 12, 2013 - 01:50am PT
We got back to Seattle last night after spending a few extra days in Squamish. Too bad for me that I had to work for about half the time. But Mari got out for a good day with Mike and Sandra. She brought them back for a visit at the end of the day, so I at least got a bit of second-hand climbing -- and to spend some time with a pair of really nice people.

I finally finished work at about 1:00 pm on Sunday and we decided to use the afternoon for a combination of exercise, exploration, and climbing. Hiked to a recently discovered crag called The Centurion, somewhere up in the back end of nowhere behind the Conroy Creek road. There's one route so far -- six pitches of bolts to 10b.

First pitch looks like this:
First pitch of whatever it's called on The Centurion.
First pitch of whatever it's called on The Centurion.
Credit: Ghost

View from the belay at the top of that pitch
Looking NW from The Centurion
Looking NW from The Centurion
Credit: Ghost

It was late enough that we only climbed one more pitch, a mostly chossy affair which opened the door to what looked like some very nice rock above.

A pretty place, with great views, but if you decide to go there, take your 4X4 and drive all the way to the end of the road. The trail from there is quite pleasant, but hiking the road is tedious and time-consuming.

Anyway, thanks to all who showed up at the Psyche Ledge affair - and particularly to JB, Wayno, and Nina who put the work in. It was a treat to see old friends, and to meet some ST posters (and lurkers) for the first time.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 12, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
Ghost - If you like escaping the crowds and getting the views you need to return to your old stomping grounds - the old obscure lump up behind Habrich that is now the Fluffy Kitten Wall.

I'm still not sure where your old route is but there is some good stone up there. I was back up there with Kevin Maclane yesterday

Wonderful Thing about Tiggers - pitch one
Wonderful Thing about Tiggers - pitch one
Credit: Bruce Kay

Pitch 2 is really good - but then so is the whole 6 or so pitches
Pitch 2 is really good - but then so is the whole 6 or so pitches
Credit: Bruce Kay

Not bad in winter too!
Not bad in winter too!
Credit: Bruce Kay
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Sep 12, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
Nice pics Bruce, good to see Kevin is still in the thick of it. I went up there once with Sig Isaac back in the last century and though it was great other than the bushwhack. That route looks really clean, did the Squamish cleaning brigade go up there or is it an anomy that it stays clean naturally?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 12, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
That route looks really clean, did the Squamish cleaning brigade go up there or is it an anomy that it stays clean naturally?

When Dick Mitten and Corina Acheson and I made the first forays up that wall we found a fairly clean line. We bushwhacked in, climbed (I think) three or four pitches, maybe up to moderate 5.10, and went home. Never went back (there were endless new projects back then).

I'm sure that some of the cracks and corners on the routes up there now had to be grubbed out, but if a 30-year-old memory means anything, I think it was at least a little bit less bushy than the Chief.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 12, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
I'm too lazy to dig up the Chehalis/Chilliwack peaks thread right now but it's prime conditions on Slesse NE butt right now...

11! people on the route yesterday (2 bivied on the ledge and 9 in-a-dayers) and some more up there today.

We made it from the cars to the start of Crossover walkoff yesterday, bivied and finished the walk out today.

North Rib access across the glacier seems impassible right now.

Mind blowing to think that Micro Marc soloed this and the north rib both in a single day in July.

A judicious choice of the Beckey Ramps rewarded us with pole position ...
A judicious choice of the Beckey Ramps rewarded us with pole position on the upper buttress - touch and go as to place in line after 9 people arrived at the bypass ledges at the same time in the morning
Credit: Oplopanax

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 12, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
Popular route! Is that a snowpatch on the bivy ledge?

That route looks really clean, did the Squamish cleaning brigade go up there or is it an anomy that it stays clean naturally?

FKW is an underutilized gem. It is remarkably clean certainly by Squamish standards and the speculation is that all the snow and ice constantly sluffing off all winter has something to do with it. In fact, the belay bolt hangers on TWTAT are bent over to the point of being difficult to clip, likely due to constant creep of the layer of water ice that forms there in the winter.

the beta is a few kms of easy 4WD, a burma bridge across the creek, 35 minutes up a trail, water at the base. The rock and cracks are a little flaring and bottoming kinda like Tuolomne but the compensation is good face features. about 8 hrs car to car for us mortals.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 12, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
Is that a snowpatch on the bivy ledge?

nope, bivi ledge is bone dry, it's the last bit of sun on route on the day circa 3 pm
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 15, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
Day of The Lord!
Day of The Lord!
Credit: RyanD

Bump for a beautiful day in Squamish, get some while there's still some to get!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 15, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
It was in Sept 29 years ago I think that PC & I did the Slesse buttress in a looooooooooooong ( 16 hrs ) day car2car. We fourth-classed a lot of the route & had a minor epic crossing Slesse Ck on the W side after deciding against the Crossover Pk descent.

Coolio that so many folks are gettin' atter !
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Sep 18, 2013 - 01:54am PT
Hello, hello.

Calling Squish......

Anyone awake?

Everyone still hung over?
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Sep 18, 2013 - 04:22am PT
The Grand Wall
The Grand Wall
Credit: Will Stanhope

From a stellar day last Wednesday on the Grand Wall with Brad Ward, and Will Stanhope (taking the shot from above).
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Sep 18, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
Nice work Wayne.
By the way, that cedar is getting huge!
Back in 76 it was barely a shrub.
Wonder if it'll eventually pry the Pillar off?
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Sep 18, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
Well I'm pretty sure Jim Brennan is itching to get up there with a saw and prevent that from happening.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 18, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
I imagine future climbers of the 2100s will fondly grapple their way up the prosthetically molded replacement Pillar with their gecko suits on and feel very old school indeed
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
Wayno- It was an Honour sir. Gear is gear. Once you know how it functions, it's all the same. Nice work by the way! Excellent off the couch climbing!

Hi Hamie! Nice to hear from ya! What's new?

I had lots of fun at the Psyche Ledge party. Many great conversations were had that night, the food was great and the set up was spot on! The many puzzled looks of the pad people walking around us was quite amusing.

Lots of great company and good times were had. Special thanks to Wayno for the amazing Carne Asada and Jim Brennan for bringing his "Q", plus running the whole darn show from beginning to end! Thanks also to Nina for her lovely pulled pork and Kyle for bringing his portable table!

Thanks also to everyone for attending and making it such a great time! What a great legacy to revive Perry! I think you have a hit!

I've been crazy busy lately so I haven't had a chance to get to my pics, but i have a couple from cragging on Saturday with Sandra Mari and Wayno.

Mari wanted to check out Cabin Boys Office, so we strolled up there

Mari on Ziggity Zags 10a

Wayno on belay.


Sandra got her redpoint on Laughing Crack, and then Nina joined us and we changed venues to High Cliff.

Nina on 20 Minute Workout 10b


She got the redpoint.

We did a couple more routes, and then joined Dave and Mari for a tasty beverage. Thanks for that guys! Thanks for the book Dave! It will be perfect reading material for Yosemite!

Nice work on the Grand Wayne! I can't wait to get back up there! Next spring. For sure.

That tree better not pry the Pillar off before i get to redpoint it! I'll be pissed!! ;)
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 19, 2013 - 01:54am PT
The valiant and lovely cedar over from the base of the Split Pillar should be left alone, and indeed cherished. It has succeeded, in a harsh environment, and is little threat to the Pillar - despite the beliefs of some. It's well to the side of the base of the Pillar, and when it eventually falls, it seems unlikely to cause problems. Even if it did, so what?

It may be only the latest of a succession of shrubs there, taking root, slowly growing, and eventually being destroyed by ice or rock fall, accumulation of snow and ice on the branches, or simply getting too big. That's the life of the Chief, which is bigger than any of us.

The Pillar itself, and the flake systems above it, are in any case temporary in geological and perhaps even human terms. The Pillar is detached, except at the top, with its base sitting in a sort of niche. It expands, as do most of the nearby connected flake cracks. Undoubtedly elastic release, earthquakes, frost heaving, and heat expansion/contraction are real threats to it. A small tree some metres to the side, in a separate crack, pales in comparison to these.

The Pillar will eventually fall - get over it! It's not the only classic hand crack in Squamish. Don't the already over-zealous logger/climbers have something better to do, or do they want to go out in a blaze of ignominy? BC Parks seems unlikely to condone any human-caused damage to that tree, and you could hardly blame them. Cheap vandalism.

In my view, it would be an act of egotistical vandalism to damage let alone remove that tree.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 19, 2013 - 02:25am PT
While I think/hope most of those considering sawing that cedar are, in fact, joking......I hafta say I side with Anders on thissun.

Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 19, 2013 - 02:49am PT
Squamish will be the scene of my comeback, if there is such a thing. There is something really cool about climbing there that I can't find the words to express. Actually I can, but I don't want to piss anyone off.;)

How did Luke's and Aislinn's wedding go? Any pics? Congratulations you two.
gf

climber
Sep 19, 2013 - 11:38am PT
BC Parks seems unlikely to condone any human-caused damage to that tree, and you could hardly blame them. Cheap vandalism.

Here endeth the lesson-MH as come down from the mount clutching the stone tablets with a new one chiselled in-Thou shalt not lunge for the branch when doing the 3 bolt clip into the right side!

I however am applying to bc parks to have this branch removed from park oversight -i figure since it does not actually touch the chief proper then this could be considered a recreational easement.
In the meantime, heed the words of MH lest ye be cast out and reported for human caused damage when grabbing or standing on the cedar branch.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 19, 2013 - 12:00pm PT
BC Parks seems unlikely to condone any human-caused damage to that tree,


“Seems,” madam? Nay, it is. I know not “seems.”


- Larry Q Hamlet.


I know not this particular seems as I'm not sure why they would regard this tree any different than all the others that have recieved human - caused damage on their watch. Really I think they are more concerned about not blowing their annual toilet paper budget.

But in practical terms, i agree with Anders assessment. Whatever force is being applied by the roots of the tree pale by comparison to the colossal dead weight of the massive H bomb hanging by a thread. When that thing cuts loose, it will be interesting to see how far the chunks make it to the highway. Same goes for the Tantalus headwall.

Can anybody climb today? Last chance til next year!


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