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Messages 6261 - 6280 of total 7166 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Sep 8, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
Yes it was a great evening. Thanks Jim, Wayno and Perry. I agree it's a keeper as an annual event. I like Ryan's idea for the hangover toprope comp the next day.Great to reconnect with Tami, Dave, Andy, Anders and finally meet Ryan, Nathan, Wayno, Luke's bro and Big Jim( who told me a great story about his first mountain climb he ever did with some storm trooper German that lived as a hermit around Powell river). Bruce where were you? I wanted to see you and Tami arm wrestle.
The icing on the cake was getting a copy of Alpinism 43 to take home, thanks Tami.
Squamish is such an awesome place.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 9, 2013 - 10:15am PT
Squamish is such an awesome place.

In so many ways.

If Psyche Ledge was in a park in the States, there is no way we could have pulled off a party like that. Not that we were disturbing anything, but the LEOs would have at least told us to pack it up and don't ever try that again.

I need to thank all the locals for such a great weekend. I would try to name them but I wouldn't want to miss anyone.

The biggest thanks to Big Mike. Burgers and Fries was tasty. After not staying up with all the new gear and techniques, he has been a mentor, in the most humble way.

Tami, I can't wait to dig into the Alpinist 43. Thanks. It was great meeting Phil, I wish we could have talked more.

Jim made the day with the grill, the table and the generator and tunes. And the hand-truck. No-one had to carry coolers of ice.

I could go on and on but I'll just leave it with an, "Ill be back".

Wayno.

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 9, 2013 - 10:42am PT
If Psyche Ledge was in a park in the States, there is no way we could have pulled off a party like that. Not that we were disturbing anything, but the LEOs would have at least told us to pack it up and don't ever try that again.

This is a result of a delicate balance of factors ranging from the abject poverty and powerlessness of the BC Parks administration to the broadly understood and accepted role of citizen management. Can you imagine a similar level of trail building and cliff side eco system modification going on in a US park or even a Canadian federal park? Even the older psyche ledge parties were pretty respectful of the land and neighbors compared to the occasional tire burning piss ups of the invading loggers kids. So long as no cars are burned or guns shot off, no one complains and the RCMP stay reoccupied with their donuts. Sorry i missed it (again) you guys and I'm glad it was a good one. I had a climbing date to keep. Every blue sky in september is a gift from heaven. Best time of the year and the days are numbered ya know?
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Sep 9, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
A nice reclean at the Gobsmack, before the Psyche festivities. Great party guys. Thanks so much for feeding the starving kids. The tacos were killer. Thanks for the mag Tami!

The Lurker on Sacrificial Lamb
The Lurker on Sacrificial Lamb
Credit: Relic
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 9, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
Thanks so much for feeding the starving kids.


Big Grin!!!!!

HAhahahahah!!!!

Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 10, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
So how did Kyle and Nathan do on Freeway on Sunday? Any pics?

I talked to Yerian today and told him about the party and he gives his deepest regards to all his Squamish friends. He sounded like he is in bad need of a Squamish fix.
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Sep 10, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
Kyle and I had a great, albeit lengthy time on Freeway.
We got a pretty early start, but not early enough to be the first party on route. Luckily, the two guys in front informed us that this would be the absolute peak of their leading limit and offered us to go first, as they might be slow. If they happen to read this - much appreciated!

I led the first pitch. It was hard. For anyone whose only .11a climbs are the two on the Grand and any in the Bluffs, this thing is a brutally rude warm up. Two definite crux sections, each protected by a bolt. I fell once at each one. Still the best I've done on it (third time climbing that pitch).
I linked it with Daylight Crack to get some space between us and the other guys. Three cams for that second half.

Kyle sent the traverse, thought it was soft for .10b. I thought it was harder than the one on Ultimate Everything. I started the dihedral, couldn't commit to the crux until I took a hang and got a nut in. Belayed on gear from the partway ledge due to rope drag. Kyle finished the rest of the pitch, would have got the OS but he was too short to reach a crucial lock and the left leg is in a strenuous position. I managed to follow clean on TR, which I was stoked on, as my first time up I botched the sequence horribly and hung the whole way up.
Kyle then took us up to the Truck Stop, very gracefully onsighting the 50 meter .11a corner pitch. I also got it clean with much effort.

After a rest, I went to go through the roof, but was reaching with the wrong hand and fell a couple times. French Freed a bunch of it just due to impatience, as I had to hitch hike back to the city once we were down and didn't want to be too late. I got better beta now though so should be okay for next time. Kyle got it clean with one fall at the start.

Now was where it got messy. Kyle started around the Autobahn traverse, but instead of going up once around the corner, he went directly across to a different anchor. Communication was pretty much non existent. I just waited until he had taken me tight and gave a couple tugs on the rope before I started. I hadn't had enough to drink and my arms were seizing up in a violent way. I had to hang on the first piece of gear and spend about 15 minutes shaking out. Once I made it around the corner, I went from following to leading and finished up the pitch at the proper anchor.

It was about 430 at this point. Kyle's confidence was shaken due to the slight epic he had just had, and I was worried that my arms would lock up in the middle of a hard pitch. Neither of us wanted to climb another .11. I led up the .10c without cramping, but then instead of going up the .11a corner, we detoured over to the right to the chimney pitch on Milk Road.
I led that, and could barely pull up our tagline without my upper body seizing. I have never experienced anything like that, and it was extremely frustrating. Kyle then went back over to the final pitch on Freeway and finished it up clean (.10d). I pulled on the bolts.

Nina was awesome, meeting us partway up the trail with water. When we got down, I had to run back up to the base and grab my shirt which I had jettisoned from the first pitch. Kyle gave me a ride to the intersection at Shannon Falls, where I managed to get a ride home.

I can't wait to get back on it. I was so beat I almost slept through my alarm Monday morning and could barely move at work. Definitely bringing more water next time.


Also - had an excellent time at the Psych Ledge party. Had some great chats with Tami, met a couple people for the first time (Peder Ourom - legend! and Harry) which was awesome.
Wish it was more than a once a year event.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
We got back to Seattle last night after spending a few extra days in Squamish. Too bad for me that I had to work for about half the time. But Mari got out for a good day with Mike and Sandra. She brought them back for a visit at the end of the day, so I at least got a bit of second-hand climbing -- and to spend some time with a pair of really nice people.

I finally finished work at about 1:00 pm on Sunday and we decided to use the afternoon for a combination of exercise, exploration, and climbing. Hiked to a recently discovered crag called The Centurion, somewhere up in the back end of nowhere behind the Conroy Creek road. There's one route so far -- six pitches of bolts to 10b.

First pitch looks like this:
First pitch of whatever it's called on The Centurion.
First pitch of whatever it's called on The Centurion.
Credit: Ghost

View from the belay at the top of that pitch
Looking NW from The Centurion
Looking NW from The Centurion
Credit: Ghost

It was late enough that we only climbed one more pitch, a mostly chossy affair which opened the door to what looked like some very nice rock above.

A pretty place, with great views, but if you decide to go there, take your 4X4 and drive all the way to the end of the road. The trail from there is quite pleasant, but hiking the road is tedious and time-consuming.

Anyway, thanks to all who showed up at the Psyche Ledge affair - and particularly to JB, Wayno, and Nina who put the work in. It was a treat to see old friends, and to meet some ST posters (and lurkers) for the first time.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 12, 2013 - 09:19am PT
Ghost - If you like escaping the crowds and getting the views you need to return to your old stomping grounds - the old obscure lump up behind Habrich that is now the Fluffy Kitten Wall.

I'm still not sure where your old route is but there is some good stone up there. I was back up there with Kevin Maclane yesterday

Wonderful Thing about Tiggers - pitch one
Wonderful Thing about Tiggers - pitch one
Credit: Bruce Kay

Pitch 2 is really good - but then so is the whole 6 or so pitches
Pitch 2 is really good - but then so is the whole 6 or so pitches
Credit: Bruce Kay

Not bad in winter too!
Not bad in winter too!
Credit: Bruce Kay
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Sep 12, 2013 - 09:45am PT
Nice pics Bruce, good to see Kevin is still in the thick of it. I went up there once with Sig Isaac back in the last century and though it was great other than the bushwhack. That route looks really clean, did the Squamish cleaning brigade go up there or is it an anomy that it stays clean naturally?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 12, 2013 - 10:21am PT
That route looks really clean, did the Squamish cleaning brigade go up there or is it an anomy that it stays clean naturally?

When Dick Mitten and Corina Acheson and I made the first forays up that wall we found a fairly clean line. We bushwhacked in, climbed (I think) three or four pitches, maybe up to moderate 5.10, and went home. Never went back (there were endless new projects back then).

I'm sure that some of the cracks and corners on the routes up there now had to be grubbed out, but if a 30-year-old memory means anything, I think it was at least a little bit less bushy than the Chief.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 12, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
I'm too lazy to dig up the Chehalis/Chilliwack peaks thread right now but it's prime conditions on Slesse NE butt right now...

11! people on the route yesterday (2 bivied on the ledge and 9 in-a-dayers) and some more up there today.

We made it from the cars to the start of Crossover walkoff yesterday, bivied and finished the walk out today.

North Rib access across the glacier seems impassible right now.

Mind blowing to think that Micro Marc soloed this and the north rib both in a single day in July.

A judicious choice of the Beckey Ramps rewarded us with pole position ...
A judicious choice of the Beckey Ramps rewarded us with pole position on the upper buttress - touch and go as to place in line after 9 people arrived at the bypass ledges at the same time in the morning
Credit: Oplopanax

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 12, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
Popular route! Is that a snowpatch on the bivy ledge?

That route looks really clean, did the Squamish cleaning brigade go up there or is it an anomy that it stays clean naturally?

FKW is an underutilized gem. It is remarkably clean certainly by Squamish standards and the speculation is that all the snow and ice constantly sluffing off all winter has something to do with it. In fact, the belay bolt hangers on TWTAT are bent over to the point of being difficult to clip, likely due to constant creep of the layer of water ice that forms there in the winter.

the beta is a few kms of easy 4WD, a burma bridge across the creek, 35 minutes up a trail, water at the base. The rock and cracks are a little flaring and bottoming kinda like Tuolomne but the compensation is good face features. about 8 hrs car to car for us mortals.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 12, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
Is that a snowpatch on the bivy ledge?

nope, bivi ledge is bone dry, it's the last bit of sun on route on the day circa 3 pm
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 15, 2013 - 09:12am PT
Day of The Lord!
Day of The Lord!
Credit: RyanD

Bump for a beautiful day in Squamish, get some while there's still some to get!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 15, 2013 - 10:59am PT
It was in Sept 29 years ago I think that PC & I did the Slesse buttress in a looooooooooooong ( 16 hrs ) day car2car. We fourth-classed a lot of the route & had a minor epic crossing Slesse Ck on the W side after deciding against the Crossover Pk descent.

Coolio that so many folks are gettin' atter !
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Sep 17, 2013 - 10:54pm PT
Hello, hello.

Calling Squish......

Anyone awake?

Everyone still hung over?
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Sep 18, 2013 - 01:22am PT
The Grand Wall
The Grand Wall
Credit: Will Stanhope

From a stellar day last Wednesday on the Grand Wall with Brad Ward, and Will Stanhope (taking the shot from above).
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Sep 18, 2013 - 09:47am PT
Nice work Wayne.
By the way, that cedar is getting huge!
Back in 76 it was barely a shrub.
Wonder if it'll eventually pry the Pillar off?
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Sep 18, 2013 - 11:05am PT
Well I'm pretty sure Jim Brennan is itching to get up there with a saw and prevent that from happening.
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