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Messages 6261 - 6280 of total 7736 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
MH2

climber
Mar 22, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
Power to the kid.


Thanks for the tour, Mike.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2014 - 09:18pm PT
You're welcome David. Have fun, and be safe! Oh ya, the crack is a 10A and it's called Ski Bum Come

Ryan you SPORT WEENIE!!!!!!!! LOL I will drag you up Slow Pitch one day and you will LOVE IT!! :) this sport weenie has the fattest trad rack I've ever seen someone of that persuasion covet.

Thanks for outing those pics. I know i took my time. It was next on the list. lol oh well..I'm gonna post em again anyways! but in context.


So as Ryan alluded to, him and I accomplished a "Winter" ascent (because it was last week! lol) of "The Smoke Bluff Connection 10a

He of course cruised it unlike any true sport weenie I've ever met. I found mosquito/Phlegmish easier this time.

me on Phlegmish




The diligent manager, taking business calls mid climb.


Jabborwocky 10b? (according to new guide)


It was a gorgeous day.


I managed a clean ascent after a couple falls off the wet, muddy opening footholds.


Ryan monkeying around on Wonderland 5.9




I was doing pretty good on the traverse till i got to the crux and fumbled around with the moves to get across to the slab. I spent way too much time puzzling it out and eventually i just couldn't hang on anymore.

Luckily Ryan had run it out from this point and the rope was directly above me so i didn't swing into the ledge.

I hung there for a bit getting my gas back and Ryan yelled down "Are you ok dude??" "I'm fine" I said, "I just bailed and i'm trying to get back on again!".
Luckily there is a little flake below the crux to haul yourself up on.

Ryan at the top.


After retrieving our shoes, we headed back to his place to have a beer and rotate my tires.

Ryan's neighbors fence is awesome, and his driveway has the sickest view.



Andy- You're welcome. Let's get out soon!!
MH2

climber
Mar 22, 2014 - 09:49pm PT
Great addition. High value on low climbs, Mike and Ryan. I will try to be ready when the time comes.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 22, 2014 - 09:51pm PT
Mike I went to Anders old guide ( '79 ) for a rating on Jabberwocky c'os I couldn't remember what we said it was. Well, I"ll be dipped in sh#t and rolled in crackers. 5.10b.

Course there's the bouldering start what din't useta be there....

:-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2014 - 09:59pm PT
Good to hear Andy! Hope you are well!

I always thought it was 10a. Just a tough start. Easier if you're tall. Lol
this just in

climber
north fork
Mar 22, 2014 - 11:31pm PT
Early may=shit yeah. You guys are welcome at my house and would love to show you some shuteye. You got my email so let me know Mike.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
Sweet Justin! I'll shoot ya one later
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
Sure looks different without all the trees around here!!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 23, 2014 - 05:54pm PT
Ryan you SPORT WEENIE!!!!!!!! LOL

Nope, sorry Mike. I don't wanna be a sport climber either. Just a Squamish climber who likes to climb on all the rocks Squamish has to offer when the conditions are best. Too much fun stuff to do around here to get pigeon holed. Climb everything :-)





Hey I don't think I ever saw that photo of you on early morning job before, that's a great shot. Nice wonderland pics too, my first time ever climbing with socks lol! Thanks for reposting those in context too!



And Jabberwocky @ 10b?! That particular 1978 guidebook author must've liked fluffing egos eh? I've always thought that besides the move off the ground that 5.9 was a fair grade for that one.



Here's a few more that are reposts from the bouldering thread but might as well throw them in the stew here as well.

Out of the light & into the light
Out of the light & into the light
Credit: RyanD

Tradkiller- brownie sending!
Tradkiller- brownie sending!
Credit: RyanD

Viper
Viper
Credit: RyanD

Brownie feeling it out
Brownie feeling it out
Credit: RyanD









Hey, on another note- and I may have asked this here before but- Has anyone ever climbed to the top of Anvil island?? Was headed south today & I'm always captivated by it. What's the story there, I heard it's owned by N Van outdoor school or something? Is there public access or anything?

Some nice looking(from the highway) cliffs there as well.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 23, 2014 - 06:26pm PT
A fellow who prefers to remain anonymous once rode a BMX bike from Vancouver to Porteau Cove, peeled outta his clothes, swam to Anvil Island , hiked to the top , back, swam back and passed out on the beach until the next morning when he realized it might be a good idea to get back to his wife in Van.

Another person, who will also remain anonymous, went over to Anvil Island and was pokin' around looking for climbs and found, instead, a large steel box filled with credit card receipts.

But there's this:
http://howesound.wordpress.com/2011/10/09/hike-anvil-island-leading-peak/
with lots of pix of very mossy rocks and some stunning views.

And Jabberwocky @ 10b?! That particular 1978 guidebook author must've liked fluffing egos eh? I've always thought that besides the move off the ground that 5.9 was a fair grade for that one.


That would'a been my ego bein' fluffed c'os I did the FA :-D
I remember it being 5.9 too except for the move off the ground.
Or five moves off the ground. I'm tinky....

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
Ryan, i hope you caught the sarcasm there.. Lol

10b for small people right Tami? ;)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 24, 2014 - 12:48am PT
Of course Mike, u get out there today??



Thanks for the info Tami, Ha! Love hearing tales of these anonymous adventurers :-)

Thanks for the link too!



Oh & my guidebook/grading comment was more a weak attempt to troll the particular author out of the shadows than anything. Maybe claiming that seasoned in the sun is a soft 5.9 that the last 10' aren't worth climbing would have been a better tactic.....
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 01:51am PT
You mean Ander's Bum? :) it would be nice to hear from MH.

Yeah, Kyle and i got out.

It was busy!! We went down to the Lybia Sucks area so i could lead my first free pitch in over a year!!
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Mar 24, 2014 - 09:38am PT
Yeeeeaaaaahhhhhoooooo Mikey!!!!!

MH2

climber
Mar 24, 2014 - 11:04am PT
OoooooooohYeah!


Maybe I see a Peder Ourom clean-up in that pic.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 24, 2014 - 11:26am PT
Hey, you see the crack/seam over near the left edge of that pic?

That's the long-lost/long-ignored Rugosite, 10d. Only appears in the Campbell guide iirc.

As fer Anvil Island I hiked up there with a big crew 10 years ago or so. Fun winter day. The rock on the summit's not granite - it's part of the Gambier Formation. I remember seeing some steep, pocketed walls that screamed out for bolted treatment except for the approach.

There are some great sea cliffs on Anvil that you can kayak or canoe to and climb. Mostly Kloochmanesque traversing rather than straight up DWS. Mix of granite and Gambier Fmn.


View west from the summit
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 12:42pm PT
Wooo hooo!! Great eyes Dru. I'm pretty sure i know someone that will be interested in that 10d.

Here's a couple more pics from yesterday.

Kyle downsoloing the new Sinclair/Ourum scrub job.


He soloed all my leads! Lol
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 12:59pm PT
Kyle wanted to try Sweet and Sour 10c which is much nicer now, sans tree at the start. He pulled off the crux somehow, even though i thought he was going to fall at any moment. He didn't find the bolt after the upper corner though??

I toproped it and had some trouble at the crux. I ended up having to invent my own beta after getting extremly frustrated trying kyle's.

Then Kyle floated Short and Sweet, and i found the hardest part was unclipping the
anchor and soloing the 5 feet to the top of burgers. (Don't fall Mike!!) ;)
I might go back and stick some hangers with rap rings to save someone else that experience.

Kyle needed a challenge, so he hit up Assholes of November 11b


He didn't get any farther then the first bolt however and ended up lowering off my nut tool. A trick i will probably never try after hearing the flexing sound it made when someone 100 pounds lighter than me weigthed it. ;)
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 24, 2014 - 05:08pm PT
My bad, Rugosite is in the most recent McLane guide, albeit so vaguely described that you'd have no idea where it is.

There's a nearby climb in the Campbell guide - Take it to the Ligaments - on a lower tier, below Rugosite and towards High Cliff from Alexis - which I don't think anyone has found or climbed since the 80s. Maybe it'll get dug out and rediscovered one of these days.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 06:37pm PT
I had to get my passport renewed and Sandra wanted to grab a few things so we're shopping today. I would really like to have time to visit everyone down here too, but it just doesn't work like that.

It's more like this: Run around and do everything you've been putting off for the last couple months, barely make it to the last store on time, then hit up superstore on the way home. It's tedious, but that's the price of living in whistler i guess.

Anyways point is i just happened to notice this travesty. It's been previously discussed on this thread.


Such a shame...
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