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Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2014 - 01:32pm PT

Lol.. Lunch at save on bruce!

Looks dry on the pillar!!

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2014 - 02:08pm PT

Pretty dry in the woods too..

Synchronicity

Trad climber

British Columbia, Canada

Jun 14, 2014 - 03:50pm PT

Kid, if I die up there you can have all my gear, just don't forget to wash the blood off.

Nice pics mike, man all that rock to be had. Looks like you guys have too much fun out there, I should move off the island....

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Jun 14, 2014 - 03:56pm PT

Photo bombing at its finest.

Hey Tami & Chief!

Really enjoyed the article in mountain life. Pick up a copy everyone if u haven't yet.

Hopefully(fings crossed) u become a reg there Tami ;-)

MH2

climber

Jun 14, 2014 - 06:17pm PT

Lively photos, Mike. Much happening.

thekidcormier

Gym climber

squamish, b.c.

Jun 17, 2014 - 10:35am PT

Does anyone know who did the 2nd of "up from the skies"?

Eric and Daryl(I think) did the first. Dave and Perry did the third.

Has any other super cropo dusters been up there?

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Jun 17, 2014 - 10:49am PT

Hey has anyone ever climbed/attempted the sw face of St. Marks? Looks like a good little cliff...?

"Last unclimbed summit on the north shore" might be that pinnacle at the Y in the gully, but the rock is amazingly fractured, as you can see from the scree cone and numerous rockfall scars...

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Jun 17, 2014 - 11:57am PT

Speaking of bad rock, here's a three-year before and after from The Castle area of Marble Canyon

2011:

2014:

It's not quite an XRez gigapan but I try...

Chief

climber

The NW edge of The Hudson Bay

Jun 17, 2014 - 02:03pm PT

Luke,

If Dave and I didn't do the second of UFTS, then Scott Flavelle definitely did.
Not sure who would have been with him though if he did.
I'll ask him.
Pretty impressive FA with hexes and bongs (both kinds).
Eric and Daryl were ahead of their time and all by themselves.

PB

crøtch

climber

Jun 17, 2014 - 02:15pm PT

Thanks, Big Mike and RyanD. I've done the regular 5.9 start which was fun and interesting, but thought it would make a nice link up to take RDDA to the ledge, wander left a bit, and continue up more finger cracks. I'll have to check out the Black Book next time I'm up there. Thanks for the tip RyanD.

DBlack

Trad climber

Vancouver, BC

Jun 17, 2014 - 09:16pm PT

Wow that does not look great! Too bad...

Is most stuff in Squamish dry right now? Hope to come up this week. :)

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Jun 17, 2014 - 10:11pm PT

NP crotch, there's actually another crack above black book even. I've never done it or met anyone who has but maybe someone here knows something.

It's called vertical smile??

Anybody??

It looks quite striking from the ground.

Would be reasonable to think that if it was climbable(not filthy) that u could do RDDA into the black book into vertical smile for a(nother) nice bullethead link up. I don't have a view of the formation with me but I think this seems reasonable?

Edit- thanks for the heads up Bruce.

MH2

climber

Jun 17, 2014 - 11:10pm PT

I think the crack most directly above Black Book is the rightmost of the 3 ways to do Bulletheads East pitch 3. It has a thin hard-to-protect start but the rest is good. Vertical Smile is a mystery.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Jun 18, 2014 - 06:26am PT

BK - thanks for waiting for us to do the geotech assessment on those cutblocks before stirring up the sh#t storm ;)

Hoser

climber

vancouver

Jun 18, 2014 - 11:45am PT

^^
yup its hard to tell how busy they are, you cant park in their lot for more than 3 hours yet its always full.

The chief trails are insanely busy and I dont seem to see a lot people walking the highway after downloading... so are they capturing that grouse grind crowd or are they just hiking the chief?

So far it does seem pretty successful and it really hasnt impacted me other than thinking of these amazing sky pilot times that are 1.5 hrs gondola top to summit....thats an after work jaunt hahaha

Baggins

Boulder climber

Jun 18, 2014 - 02:56pm PT

I also wonder where the development of the gondola will go. Currently its very lame in terms of trails. The one trail they have made takes about 5 minutes to walk (assuming the hordes of asian tourists aren't in your way). Everyone I saw a few weekends ago seemed to be wearing hundreds of $$ of tech gear purchased from mec so that they could stroll around a path which was more or less the equivalent of walking around a garden.

The backcountry stuff meanwhile is evidently way more challenging, and they dont even seem to want to mention its existence on the map (which is a super lame cartoon).

And $35 is a bit steep, tho its only 10 if you hike up there.

Curious to see whats going to happen here. This is a photo i got of howe sound and chief backside:

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Jun 18, 2014 - 03:01pm PT

^^^

Lol

Yeah saw my friends going for a hike to get some exercise after they got down from the gondy the other day. I lolololol'ed at them pretty good.

But seriously I hear the cragging up there is the best in the corridor so everyone should go there every time they go climbing. Apparently the rock is far superior to anything in the valley, particularly the Chief & Murrin. So if u aren't up there you are missing out on the next golden age of Squamish climbing but try & keep it on the down low mmmkay?

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Jun 18, 2014 - 03:37pm PT

This is clearly the spur that's been needed for years for people to free the old north face of Ledge aid route, free the south face of Ledge aid route, and climb that amazing looking offwidth that turns into an enclosed shaft and vanishes into the mountain on the SE pillar of Mt Sheer