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MH2

climber
Apr 23, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
I was nervous watching Robert way above the bolt on this climb, Monday. It was onsight, too, in every sense except that he had done it once before, but he didn't seem to realize that he should layback and he went left side in, manly style. Up to where he is in the photo, that is.


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2013 - 12:43am PT
Skulduggery!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 24, 2013 - 12:55am PT
Good stuff Mike & MH2! Good to see u the other day Mike! Good to meet u too lurker Anders, your guidebook is great, very cool.

Andy, when was that thing bolted?

MH2

climber
Apr 24, 2013 - 01:56am PT
There has always been a bolt there. Unless you mean that boulder problem, not Skullduggery. For the boulder problem, it got its bolts just a few years ago, and lost them a year or two later.


That is one hard hairy highball. And excellent photos of it.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2013 - 02:23am PT
Thanks Andy. Thanks also to mr D for having the balls to send it!!
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Apr 24, 2013 - 04:12am PT
Beauty weather we're havin' eh!

Sunday was rad, psyked to see Big Mike out there again and to see Sandra crush kangaroo corner; her first 5.11!


The other night Aislinn and I set out a summit push after work. We had our sights seton the south peak of the Stewamus Chief and it was prearranged Aislinn was to be the rope gun to Fred Becky's ultra-timeless Squamish Buttress.

After she navigated us to the top of the apron via rambles-bpeel with 30m between us, she was feelin warmed up. When we arrived at the toe of the buttress she figured she'd keep leading and did 2 short pitches got us to the goods.

Upon casting her eyes upon the money pitch for the first time she decided she wanted to step to her first five ten fissure, ONSIGHT!

Up she went, styling the crack transfer, protecting her self from hitting the deck but spacing out her pro as she got higher, and she was looking super solid . When she got to the fingery bit she doubled up and went for it.

Quite a ways above her gear and well into the crux the rains starts as she try's to plug in a blue alien, I thought she said clipping but she said whipping and down she came with a ln extra armload of slack to boot.

Frustrated by my mediocre belay she insisted on coming down and getting me to finish the last 10 feet to the belay. After I finished the pitch she followed it with ease then she took over the lead right to the summit.

Another fine evening jaunt...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
Nice telling Luke! You should get Ais to post up some of those rad pics she took that night!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 24, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
Credit: RyanD
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
Love it!!
browniephoto

climber
bc
Apr 24, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
Credit: browniephoto
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 24, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
Nice Kieran! Right wing???
MH2

climber
Apr 25, 2013 - 12:12am PT
The RyanD photo of Squamish, looking dry and about as evenly lit as you can ask for, and Goat Ridge behind it still under snow, is good!



Here is Victor Ting taking his own approach to the flake finish on Right Wing.
(a repost)


browniephoto

climber
bc
Apr 25, 2013 - 12:16am PT
i bet that dude had a #5
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 25, 2013 - 12:26am PT
we'll call that the right wing Extremist
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2013 - 12:40am PT
You guys did right wing???? Dammit!! Nice work!! So jealous!!!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Apr 25, 2013 - 12:59am PT
Hey !

Victor is a super good guy. Glad to see a picture of him still at it !

Bruce Kay, If you are suffering buyer remorse over the Black Canyon painting, let's talk...
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Apr 25, 2013 - 01:25am PT
Great photos Ryan, Kieran and Andy! Keep them coming!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 25, 2013 - 01:30am PT
buyer remorse

Not at all. I havn't even seen it yet. I just thought it would be funny if we all started a whole underground economy trading Big Mike sh#t. You know .... trade Rolfs climb for a painting, then the painting for an engine rebuild, then trade your car and a hooker and some blow for a trip to J Tree.

We could call it E Mike.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2013 - 01:40am PT
Like one red paper clip? ;)
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Apr 25, 2013 - 03:01am PT
Pretty exciting finish that last pitch of Right Wing. Steeep! And a little bit of surpize wideness.
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