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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 12, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
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Tape on the ankles - if I learned one thing on our Pipeline attempt last year, it's that I can't take the pain of my ankle grinding up the rock.
Unfortunately, I'm coming back from a broken hand at the moment, so haven't been able to climb anything recently. Still a couple weeks to go.
I have, however, been trying to get in shape for the long list of wyde, groovy, and grovelly climbs that I hope to struggle my way up this season. Stomping up the Grouse Grind every other day.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 01:27pm PT
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Ya.. It's just not as good as leather.. Nate we should hook up. We could toprope some slabs!
Oh wait.. You probably can't really belay hey?
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 12, 2014 - 02:07pm PT
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Mike, I've been trying to con myself into something along those lines, cause I want to climb really really bad, but I just can't justify it. Once my splint comes off, it's supposed to be another three weeks till I'm fully healed, but I'm going to try and start doing some mellower stuff before then.
Might go talk to a physio and see what the best thing to do is. I'd still like to come hang out though if the weather cooperates.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 02:42pm PT
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Nice Nate! Look forward to it!
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alina
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 12, 2014 - 03:04pm PT
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Thanks for the recs! I'll climb 10s -- don't want to hang dog everything I get on!
PS: tape socks to your ankles if you don't have a high top that works for you foot. I've also done tape then socks+tape over. I like wide. And I did a lot of struggling before I got my pair of TC Pros.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 03:18pm PT
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I want tcpros so bad but they only make a 46 and my mythos are a 47.5!!
Curse of the bigfoot!!
Hmm i'd have to wear socks in my shoes.. I'll try it.
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alina
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 12, 2014 - 03:39pm PT
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47.5... wow =P
You are ten shoe sizes bigger than me.
I have the opposite problem: it's very hard to find TC Pros in 37.5 -- and never on sale.
Most awesome shoes are not made in a smaller, (always pink) women's version. And the smallest men's size is usually 39.
I've been looking to buy a pair of La Sportiva Gandas in 37.5.. yeah, good luck with that.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 12, 2014 - 03:39pm PT
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Mike you should buy some of these from Fluevog and then get a cobbler to put a sticky rubber sole on them.
Perfect for wide cracks. Leather all the way to the knee!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 03:47pm PT
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Alina- curse of the big and small! lol
Dru- Looks good! those will do the trick for sure! lol
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crøtch
climber
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Jun 12, 2014 - 04:50pm PT
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Can Rainy Day Dream Away be linked into pitches 2-4 of Bulletheads East instead of using the 5.9 starting pitch?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 05:02pm PT
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I think so. It ends at bullethead ledge but it's been awhile since i've been up there.
The 5.9 pitch is interesting though and gives you a close look at p1 of rainy day woman which looks amazing!
You would have to walk left on bullethead ledge for a bit to get to p2.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
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Ok that was kinda confusing.. The last sentence was meant to reference the dream away bullethead east link up...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 12, 2014 - 08:06pm PT
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You can do it pretty easily crotch, probably better climbing but as Mike says way less direct. Check out "the black book" above RDDA on your way over to bullethead east.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 08:25pm PT
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Ok. Too much talking and not enuf pixs.
This one's easy pickings.
I still can't believe no one got fissuremans friend...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 12, 2014 - 09:33pm PT
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Swiss Cheese.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 09:43pm PT
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Yes it is!! Speaking of nordic the bolts there are starting to look a little suspect.... Maybe that could be my reno project...
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DBlack
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 13, 2014 - 07:28pm PT
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Hey has anyone ever climbed/attempted the sw face of St. Marks? Looks like a good little cliff...?
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Jun 14, 2014 - 12:00pm PT
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Hey whats the weather been like over in Squamish this week? A buddy and I have wall plans there but the forecast has been rather questionable. Looking for firsthand info, How wet has it been?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 14, 2014 - 12:46pm PT
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It looks dry enough from here...
Look out for the batch of bad Chinese bolts that rot from the inside out and had been know to fAil from a powerful sneeze plus body weight.
If you die up there I'm rapping in to booty your offset aliens.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
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How wet does it look??
I haven't been down here since weds but it didn't rain very much in whistler and i'm assuming it's the same here based on how dry it is. It's supposed to thundershower again later
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