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Messages 5401 - 5420 of total 7955 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 24, 2013 - 04:15am PT
Jim apparently has the brew pub HR manual to reference & pretty much sums it up. Still it remains a fun place to swill a few budweisers a few times a year. Looks like u guys had a good time, I was working so maybe next time. Unless its Saturday night, I'll be working. Relic looks affected for sure! Still managed to go climb for a few minutes in the sun this afternoon though!


Credit: RyanD
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 10:25am PT
Nice Ryan!! I heard your going to Yosemite with the boys to aid climb??? I'm jealous, what happened to going with me and sending a bunch of sick free routes??? Oh well, good luck with them, sounds like some interesting objectives.
Paul Brennan

Trad climber
Ireland
Feb 24, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
Cheers lads, and thanks to everyone who came out, last night was great fun!Jim, I'll definitely be back. Unfinished business on the chief, and the wall climbing in Squamish is genuinely quality. I'll make sure you can make my next going away :-)

Missing ye all already.....
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 25, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
Rather than bump the stupid "People who scrub rock and build trails are evil" thread I'll bring Ryan's question over here to the Squamish thread. Which not only is where it belongs, but gives me a chance to let Big Mike know we're all wishing him the best. And also, there's a direct-line connection between this project's unfinished state and Mike's current state, which means it just has to go here.

So, anyway Andy posted this shot of one of my old projects:

Candles in the Rain
Candles in the Rain
Credit: MH2


And Ryan said:

Thanks Andy! Looks pretty cool actually, some quality stone. What's the deal with that thing Ghost? As the FA'ist would you give us permission to go up there with chainsaws & wire brushes & Ice hammers & rappel powered drills to do a little cleanup??


The deal with that thing is that way back in the last century, on the eve of my fiftieth birthday, I was not a happy man. Life had taken the wrong turn for me, and instead of looking forward to celebrating the next day in the company of family, friends, and lover, I knew I would be alone, and didn't see that changing any time soon. So I spent that next day doing the one thing I had left that gave me any joy... I bashed in to the base of the Oleson Wall and started a new route.

It was pissing rain, and cold. The climb was filthy. Seemed appropriate to commemorate the day by naming the thing "Candles in the Rain"

Over the next year I worked on it intermittently, mostly by myself, but sometimes with my friend Helen Habgood. We made some progress, and I began to believe that the climb might turn into something good. But just over a year from the day I started working on it, I moved to Golden.

When I moved back to Vancouver another year later, I went back and restarted work on it. (And also on an interesting little wall I found in Capilano Canyon).

And then I pulled a Big Mike. In a completely innocuous little fall on my bike (at the grand speed of about two miles per hour) I broke my hip.

As depressing as my future had looked before, I now didn't know if I'd ever walk again, let alone ride or climb or ski. Which is pretty much where Mike is going to be in a week or so. His close friends will be there for him, of course, but I can't stress enough how important it will be for all of us in the Supertopo community to continue to support him during his rehab period. I had strong support from my friends, but what really made a big difference was to hear from so many people in the internet climbing community (rec.climbing, back then).

Now, as it turned out, the hip frx marked the low point, and ever since then things have become better every day. It started with the support of the climbing community, progressed through an amazing job offer, which took me to a new city that is the best place I've ever lived, and led ultimately to meeting someone I've been in love with ever since (and happily married to for most of the last decade).

But I never did get back on Candles in the Rain.

I got close though. A couple of months after my accident I limped and staggered through the snow from the Bulletheads parking lot to the start of the backside trail. Getting up that little 10-foot scramble (this was before there were stairs there) was the hardest climb I ever did. I managed to get to the little bridge across the creek, but there was no way I could deal with the bush and boulders between there and the base of the wall. In fact I almost couldn't make it back to the car.

In the early spring, my bolt-together leg had healed enough for Andy (MH2) to take me out for a day in the Bluffs, but then came the job in Seattle, and...

In theory, I could could go back to work on that climb, but it's not likely that I will, and I would be thrilled if some of you guys who are active at Squamish now got out the crowbars and saws and wire brushes turned it into a real climb.

And maybe take a little chunk of rock that you've pried off it and give it to Mike as a present from me.
Danny G

climber
Squamish, BC
Feb 25, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
Hey Jim Brennan, I'm an aspiring wall rat and am looking to pick up some pitons if your friend is willing to sell em' off.

I should probably stop being such a lurker and contribute. Can anyone name this climb?
Credit: Danny G
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Feb 25, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
Looks like up up and away to me Danny. Hey I got lots pitons you can borrow if you ever want, in exchange for Wet Denim Daydream beta.

604 849 3133 (text only)

I got the today through Thursday off if anyone wants to climb in the rain hit me up.
markr

Trad climber
Feb 25, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
Is that Up Up and Away, Danny?
Danny G

climber
Squamish, BC
Feb 25, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
Yup that's Up, Up, and Away.
Luke, thanks for the offer. I'll gladly give you all the beta you want for Wet Denim Daydream. Such a great route!
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Feb 25, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
Ghost, nice story; much appreciated here.
G
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 25, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
Hahahah..........first I didn't recognize Kangaroo Corner and now I wasn't sure what that climb was :-D hahaha!!! I thought it was Penny Lane but that din't quite fit.

Snicker, guffaw c'os I did the FA of Up, up & away.

Thanks for the story David.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 25, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
Yeah David, thanks for the reply! Very nice story, thanks for answering my question with such a great share. I thought we were just gonna keep trolling with all the moss lovers over there but this is much better. I think I'll walk up there & check it out sometime.

Hey Luke, scratch the rain- lets go climb in the sun in the am!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 27, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
Bump for Squamish climbing season coming round the corner!

Don't think i ever posted this on here but here's some video i shot of my friend working the route "Lost highway" at the Pet. He tried it on & off for a few years & was getting really close before he moved to Asia in the fall. Maybe one day Coz will join in & pipe up about this one, i think perhaps he bolted it & abandoned it?? Then i think Marc B did it & probably Scott M but i don't know of any others though i'm sure there's a few?

Anyhow, this was my first time trying to shoot video on a route so it's kinda choppy, but it was fun & i learned a bunch- enjoy!





https://vimeo.com/40140855






Edit- the holds are impossibly small on this thing!! The Pettiest of the Pet!



harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Feb 27, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
Nice lead but pales in comparision to your winter ascent of "Can't feel my fingers road" From what I can tell your climbing season starts on January 1st and ends on December 31st. Same dates as the Vancouver rain festival. Nice vid, is that a Scott Cosgrove route?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 27, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
Thanks for that Ryan !
MH2

climber
Feb 27, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
That guy is smooth and powerful. Now I want a pair of those shoes.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 27, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
Hehe the secret is lady's muiras apparently. Imagine no name covered in ice in the middle of the night Harry-in the rain- that's how this thing felt on TR!
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Mar 1, 2013 - 12:40am PT
Hi to RyanD and Big Mike.

I had decided to take a break from winter/skiing and was down in Potrero for 2 weeks, and so missed your Feb 12 posts about The Terror. Good to hear that you enjoyed it. That's a big roof, and an impressive FFA by Finlayson. No, Tim and I didn't name it. It was prolly a Culbert name.

Big Mike. Very sorry to read about your accident. You have been "paying it forward" for some time, and should have a good karma bank account built up by now. All the best.
H

El Potrero Chico, Hidalgo, Mexico.  2013.
El Potrero Chico, Hidalgo, Mexico. 2013.
Credit: hamie
.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 01:54am PT
Thanks Hamie! Too cool guys!! It's all just too much for me to keep up with at the moment. I've actually been quite busy here!!
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Mar 1, 2013 - 03:49am PT
I don't know if this has been posted before but it's gooood. Hope you don't mind me posting this Glen. Click on the video link.http://www.museevirtuel-virtualmuseum.ca/sgc-cms/expositions-exhibitions/nuages-clouds/en/v/v-woodsworth.html
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 1, 2013 - 04:03am PT
Cool stuff Harry! I think I've seen the video before, just can't remember where?!


Hamie! You lucky guy, Potrero is so much fun. Are you gonna spin up a little TR for us??
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