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hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Mar 5, 2013 - 01:12am PT
Time for a bump. Let's keep BM's thread going.

I'm not sure how many people following this thread still climb in the alpine, but if you do......... Davey Jones' new guide to Rogers Pass is now out, and available at your favourite non-profit retailer. That's the one which specializes in trendy upscale urban/outdoor clothing, and bicycles.

Credit: hamie

Usual quality text. Usual quality photos. Ha ha!

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 5, 2013 - 04:13am PT
Looks cool Hamie! What that peak on the front & how's the bushwack out there??
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 5, 2013 - 11:15am PT
Ryan - Its Sir donald and there is practically no bushwacking to speak of. You drive to 4000 feet and walk up perfectly engineered trails to immaculate quartzite. Its the closest thing we have to the eastside experience, but with grizzlies and real glaciers. There's quite a huge pile of cragging down in the low lands now as well.

good to see a dedicated guide book finally.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Mar 5, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
That NE Face of Sir Donald on the cover looks crazy ....

photo not found
Missing photo ID#233934

From every perspective
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Mar 5, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
I was wondering where that pic was from Bruce, now I know:)
KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Mar 5, 2013 - 07:08pm PT
Yeah, I know already...

But for a Yank, Squeemish approaches took some getting used to.

Nothing like yarding from vine-like roots, or doing the “shiver me timbers” log traverse to get to the start of your climb.

So, on my drive back home one road trip's afternoon, I decided to visit Murray Falls Provicial Park to check out a slab alongside Shannon Falls – maybe I've got these place names mixed up, but, anyway-

Between the parking lot and the foot of the slab is a “creek.” Now, in the Sierra, a creek is a proposition normally handled (or 'footed') with stepping stones, unless a fallen tree log happens to be nearby.

There were plenty of stepping stones here – all of which resembled gigantic bowling balls, except more polished.

There was also a fallen log, about 6 feet (2 meters) in diameter, spanning the 75 feet or so across what was actually a raging Canadian torrent at the foot of Shannon Falls. But it was suspended, bank to bank, about 15 feet above the river.

“This can't be right!” thinking of my local partner, who described the first day of a backcountry trip as spent trying to merely cross the inlet to Howe Sound...
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 5, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
Between the parking lot and the foot of the slab is a “creek.” Now, in the Sierra, a creek is a proposition normally handled (or 'footed') with stepping stones ...

You're not in California any more! Many creeks here are rivers in most other places in the world.
A couple of minor creeks in the Coast Mountain combine to form a large...
A couple of minor creeks in the Coast Mountain combine to form a larger creek.
Credit: Tricouni

You don't cross either of these easily; they are a lot bigger and swifter than they look.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 5, 2013 - 08:26pm PT
Thanks Bruce. Looks & sounds very worthy, could this Sir Donald be our version of the w ridge of conness?
Out_of_bounds

climber
Squamish/Revy
Mar 5, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
long time lurker here... Thanks for the heads up on the new guide Hamie.

I think that picture also shows the North Face route, which is a Fred Beckey and Yvon Chouinard route, and around the corner to the east is a Hamie and Bruce Fairley route, which sounds like it might be a good first ascent story.

There is some good sport climbing in Revy, and over the past few years there has been a number of long adventurous sport routes put up on Boulder Mtn and
Victor Lake Wall, which are all within close proximity of the Trans Canada Hwy.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Mar 5, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
Picture bump

Credit: thekidcormier
Channeling my inner Ninja
Channeling my inner Ninja
Credit: thekidcormier
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Mar 5, 2013 - 11:58pm PT
Credit: thekidcormier
Credit: thekidcormier

Photos of the Elvis fish coming soon.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Mar 6, 2013 - 01:23am PT
RyanD,

The quality rock of Rogers Pass and the Bugaboos are the Canadian versions of the Sierras Eastside, except the weather is unstable, the bears are huge, and nasty electrical storms almost every afternoon. California is much more fun.

Look up Mount MacDonald in Rogers pass if you really want your mind blown. Or ask Bruce Kay about it. One thousand meters of hard fifth class climbing, in direct view of the highway the whole time, fa'ed very recently, 2010, "The North Pillar Direct " 5.11c A0 1000m x? "Sustained" is one descriptor used, minimum 5.9 every pitch for 25 pitches, lots of 5.11

In comparison, both the Seventh Rifle and the Watchtower on the North Howser Tower felt shorter, easier and less committing than the north face of MacDonald. - Jon Walsh
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 6, 2013 - 04:50am PT
Damn Bruce, i thought you were trolling me with some sort of Mt Bmacd but that thing looks awesome!


http://arcteryx.com/Article.aspx?language=EN&article=Jon-Walsh-Climbs-A-New-Route-on-Mt.-MacDonald
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Mar 6, 2013 - 11:14am PT
Credit: thekidcormier
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Mar 6, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
Mt. MacDonald, North Pillar
FA Bruce Kay, Jon Walsh
ED2 [Extremely Difficult Level 2] 11b.
"One of the great climbs of Rogers Pass".
Very cool, Bruce.

The differences between the Eastside [rockclimbing] and Rogers Pass [mountaineering] are mostly commitment, and suffering. :) :)

Talking of suffering..... When I was in Potrero last month I met a climber from Ontario called Van. He was stuck for two very cold nights last fall on Long Ledge near the top of the Salathe, by the same storm which caught Luke and his partner on the Muir.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 6, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
hey I just picked up a copy. There is a few really good pics of Hamie grinning away in there!

The comparison to "the sierra experience" seems actually quite appropriate. There are even some high quality technical traverses. The Camel / Tupper / swiss peaks traverse looks really good.

I don't think there is a very broad understanding of how good the stone quality is at the pass. The climbing seems to be considered only in "mountaineering terms", which are also really good but just dosn't complete the picture. The crack climbing on Macdonald is every bit as good as anything in the bugs and head and shoulders above almost anything in the Rockies, yet hardly anyone stops to sample it.

The only downside I see is the weather. its just a bit further north and less leeward than the bugs or much of the rockies. Anyway, if you drive through in good weather you really should stop and stay a while.
KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Mar 6, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
You're not in California any more! Many creeks here are rivers in most other places in the world.

Word.
Out_of_bounds

climber
Squamish/Revy
Mar 6, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
Hey Bruce, it was nice to meet you today and thanks again for the ride, glad your jackets were still hanging around.

Spending time in Rogers Pass either to climb,ski or hike should be on everyone's tick list. For a fantastic resource of info on the area, check out www.rogerspass411.ca - It is a unreal source of info, which skiers might find the most useful but still very handy for climbers.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 01:33am PT
Heck ya! MacDonald looks rad!!!

Ryand you should post your st vitus adventure in here!!!

Luke, your fish is sideways!! ;)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 7, 2013 - 03:11am PT
Haha not much more to tell there Mike, but since you've got extra taco time these days I'll give it a shot in hopes it will help you pass some time & crack a grin.

Even though Luke an I see each other all the time & hang out at the crag or in the rain somewhat regularly we had never really shared a rope, we've conspired to do many great climbs & even have a open wager on who will complete a certain climbing challenge first but its been tough to get out & tie in on the same line. We figured it was high time & while we were out cragging at lumberland in the afternoon (not sharing a rope though) we decided on an evening st V lap. The best apron route IMO + with Luke + @ night + for a chance to put a grin on BM's bedridden face had all the makings of a great outing.

As for details? Not much to tell, ive done the route a bunch & luke had only done the first & last pitch. Hmm, lets see: we simuled up the approach pitches to the ledge, when I saw Luke put me on the hip belay at the tie in I figured we were pretty much just carrying the rope up to the real climbing so yeah I was surprised for sure when Luke fell seconding the 5.7 just below the treed ledge! I caught him on a biner belay from my stance against the wall with my feet on the log, funny thing was I thought about my setup & readjusted just before he peeled. We had a good laugh about that & The rest of the route was fun, Luke led & we simuled up to memorial where Luke ran the PDL up memorial crack which was the first wetness we encountered on the climb. As mentioned elsewhere we conspired about ice on the buttress & Luke had inside info on the recently discovered samsquantch so we pussed out & headed down. Normally I'd take the gulley raps too but since we did Memorial crack there was no point by the time we got off there. As for the death rope, I think it's pretty sweet, but now that the swamp somehow disappeared(?????) underneath it, I'll just rap on my rope next time. Night climbing is fun & Luke climbs with the tenacity of a honey badger, likely his spirit animal- who wouldn't want to climb with a honey badger?? I look forward to more.

Squamish nightlife
Squamish nightlife
Credit: RyanD

Now what I want to know is, how the hell does BK have all this time to pick all of this wonderful fruit?? Sounds like a brilliant climb you guys put up there. Bmacd, u ever climb your namesake mountain??
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