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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 16, 2014 - 06:43pm PT
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Glenn, this is "The Castle" area over at the far right, i.e. north of the Icy BC waterfall and a three hour slog up mobile scree approach. Iain Stewart-Patterson did some 5-pitch route in this area, I think on the cliff behind the pinnacle. I don't think the pinnacles in this area even have names, let alone routes... the big one's about two pitches high and the rest are less than a ropelength. Lyle or Garry might be able to tell us more.
RyanD, some stories can't be shared without permission - the Natives said that certain families or clans owned a story and they were the only ones who could tell it. And I'm not about to appropriate from Clan Nugent.
But in a highly edited form, ;), he was climbing with a gal he'd never met before, she subtly challenged his manliness, they got up on this giant chimney sickle feature that had been previously bailed on a few times, it turned into the worst choss imaginable, and they had to keep battling upwards because none of the gear, including belays, would hold body weight, so there was no way to rappel....
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 16, 2014 - 06:48pm PT
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Thanks, Oplo, so Chimney Rock is out of sight in this photo?
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Sanskara
climber
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Apr 16, 2014 - 06:53pm PT
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Wow,
You guys are very fortunate to live where you do.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 16, 2014 - 07:13pm PT
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Here's the Chimney, aka Coyote's Penis, in all its glory Glenn. It's about 2 km northwest of the other photo.
The redder or oranger the limestone is the more rotten it is.... only route on the Penis is up the back side.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 16, 2014 - 07:27pm PT
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Ahh, thanks. Yes, the red stuff is ungood for climbing.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 17, 2014 - 01:54am PT
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Here's a couple of pix of Chimney Rock [aka Chimney Rock :)] I posted one of them before.
The rock was pretty good.
Climber circled. You'll have to trust me on that!
Hi Glenn.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 17, 2014 - 02:18am PT
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Great photos, Hamie!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 03:18am PT
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Yes please!! ^^^^^
Mh2, nice shots. 44 certainly has grown in popularity with the sport crowd lately. Rarely a day is there i don't see a couple cars parked on the highway when i'm going to Squamish.
Dave, i'm glad you guys had fun at the papoose.
Dru- Nice shots of the choss. I've driven through there on the way north a few times. I find it beautiful, but less than inviting.. Lol
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 17, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
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You know on second thought and closer inspection it seems kinda like one could start up the gray-and-red corner at lower left in my photo and then follow gray rock all the way to the top near the left skyline, provided a buzzy hole-maker and a bucket o' bolts came along with you. Somebody should get right on that.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
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Someone should send Jeremy or Munge a plane ticket. I bet a whole bunch of routes would get put up in the canyon!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 12:20pm PT
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Oh i know there are. I just meant a bunch more! Lol
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Apr 17, 2014 - 02:20pm PT
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Is a bolt useless if you don't fall onto it?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 17, 2014 - 02:22pm PT
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I like to dream that there is at least one crag in that entire canyon that has a rope length high by 100m or so wide wall of overhanging bulletproof rock with nice pockets and edges.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 02:23pm PT
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I think Hilti is happy to sell extra hardware.
Tooth- cool! What routes did you guys do at Pink Cliff?
Maybe there is, somewhere under the choss Ryan. Lol
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 17, 2014 - 02:27pm PT
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Bloody oath is right!!
Do we have Bruce questioning the use of bolts now?!
What has happened?
Next thing u know he's going to chop everything @ area 44 & lead it on peckers & hand placed pitons & call it a trad climbing area!!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 17, 2014 - 02:48pm PT
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Cool little flick of PAul Mcsorley, Tony Richardson and Chris Brazeau climbing in Patagonia.
https://vimeo.com/78964658
Hey look its RyanD:
Oplo- That picture of Chimney Rock is awesome.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 17, 2014 - 03:46pm PT
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There's about 10 feet of one wall that has pockets - the Mouse/Rather Be on Robson - and that's pretty much it, and I've climbed at most every crag in the canyon.
The Oregon Jack sport crag does have pockets - most with guano weeping out of them as I recall. But that just complements the three foot thick carpet of rat turds at the base.
On the other hand there are a few nice pockets on the same limestone but further north, up by Clinton. Even some nice non-blocky, water worn overhangs - see bottom left in photo for instance.
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perswig
climber
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Apr 17, 2014 - 03:49pm PT
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.... only route on the Penis is up the back side.
I'm gonna pretend I didn't read this.
Dale
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Apr 17, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
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There's lotsa cracks on Chimney Rock. The existing route is all gear, no bolts.
Bruce, coffee table books are so "old style". I am working on a book coffee table, but it's hard to attach the legs, and the final result is both unstable and a bit too small.
Meanwhile I am eagerly awaiting Glenn's book on Dick [tentative name "See Dick Climb"], and Anders' multi-volume undertaking, "A History of All Things Squamish".
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 06:14pm PT
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Bruce, coffee table books are so "old style". I am working on a book coffee table, but it's hard to attach the legs, and the final result is both unstable and a bit too small.
Classic Hamish. Thank you. ;)
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