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Messages 5381 - 5400 of total 7892 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
squamishmonkey

Trad climber
Squamish
Feb 22, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
I added the anchors under the roof and cleaned up the first pitch of the Terror; we also added a proper anchor to the end of the route. I was distracted by other projects and my partner took it over. The route goes at 11b/c by Finlayson and that bolt has sprouted since last summer, he cleaned the pitch and sent the same day.
browniephoto

climber
bc
Feb 22, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
Credit: browniephoto

The Kid was practicing his expanDo nut placements at the SABC meeting last night...
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 22, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
But at least I've been climbing 9 out of the last 11 days... Can you say that Dave??

Well, sure, I could say it, but it wouldn't be true. I think I got to the gym once, and might even go tonight. But I'll be bumbling my way up a bunch of candy-ass Red Rocks 5.5s and 5.6s in a couple of weeks, too.

When you do get down here this summer, let me know. I'd love to get out with you. As long as you're willing to hang with someone for whom Red Rocks 5.6 is now serious.
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Feb 22, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
The route goes at 11b/c by Finlayson
That's an unexpected surprise! I suspect that because it looks so fearsome, it's kept most suitors away.

K
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
Red Rocks 5.6 should be considered serious for anyone!! Talk about Cheese grater!!!! The harder routes are less featured and you actually might survive a fall unhurt.

As to if I'll climb with you, the answer should be obvious. Of course I will!!! Easter, Leavenworth, lets make it happen.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 22, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
11b/c Finlayson could mean a lot of things :-) there's actually a lot of footholds so it may not be far from the truth, he did however also call betazoid 11b/c(12b) after warming up on it one day so.........
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Feb 22, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
Hey Casper the candy ass, I'm proud to say I love doing aesthetic 5.6s even though I onsight 5.14 except at Index where I'm lucky to get up a 5.9. Grades are hard down there.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 22, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
I'm proud to say I love doing aesthetic 5.6s even though I onsight 5.14 except at Index where I'm lucky to get up a 5.9. Grades are hard down there.

No sh#t. I think it was Jim Donini who once said "If you can climb at Index, you can climb anywhere."

I don't think it's the grades, because no matter how soft or sandbag the grades, you pretty soon adjust. I think it's more that the rock there requires a higher level of commitment at whatever grade. Most places offer a variety of commitment levels. At Squamish there there is plenty of climbing to be had at whatever level of commitment you are prepared to accept on any given day. Whereas at Index there are relatively few climbs -- at any grade -- that don't require you to bring everything you have.

That, plus the fact that there just aren't very many easy climbs.

Anyway, back to Squamish...
Not all climbing at Squamish is in an urban junkyard.
Not all climbing at Squamish is in an urban junkyard.
Credit: Ghost
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 23, 2013 - 12:12am PT
Omega, Pelops and Niobe :-)

Ahhhh, some excellent memories of those cute peaks. Damn that ridge on Omega but it has a stupid notch in it with the grab-the-tree-branch crux. Have also climbed it from the other side through the branches and weeds. Rapped down the north-ish ridge side from some dodgy block. Fun times !

Back in the '80's when glaciers lay upon the land, I jumped the 'schrund on that eastern slope between Pelops and Niobe. In '00 it was a 10m wall of ice and snow I wasn't interested in jumping. Wow. The way sh#t melts out. Oy!


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
Just found a link to Relic's flick, No Permanent Address. Apparently he wasn't super happy with the way it turned out, but i think it's rad!!


Trailer


Full Version Download
http://www.ulozto.net/xMQ7LeC/no-permanent-address-climbing-video-avi
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Feb 23, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
I never said that Mike. I was really happy with it when it came out, I just get over-critical when watching it that's all. You are putting words in my mouth!

That's funny it ended up on some euro site for download.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
My apologies. I guess I misinterpreted your comments ;)

Sick film dude. Those euros like to see our rock I guess!
MH2

climber
Feb 23, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
No Permanent Address is a Relic production?! It has a good vibe. There is a small bit where a women tops out on a boulder, maybe in the Happys, and does a brief almost-dance. For me that was unexpected, genuine, and the kind of thing that stands out from the crowd of more high-production climbing videos I've seen. I thought the whole thing was a good look at how regular people(?) go about a life of climbing.
Paul Brennan

Trad climber
Ireland
Feb 23, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
Heading down to the brewpub in about half an hour if anyone cares to celebrate me vacating squamish for a while? Will be there for a while I imagine. All and sundry are welcome :-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 12:37am PT
We are currently at the pub. Here's a couple crappy bar pics.




Fishboy, Luke and Aislinn




Paul is stoked!




Relic and Paul




MH2

climber
Feb 24, 2013 - 12:42am PT
That's a good feeling! Thanks for the pub pics. I can 'shop them in my mind.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 24, 2013 - 02:17am PT
Paul,

I wanted to make the scene at the brew pub but other friends and I had a nice movie and dinner in the city.

You should make it a priority to come back here soon.

For other aspiring wall rats, I have more than enough iron for loan to get yourselves in trouble concerning aid banging.

there is also a major stash of pitons, 2'x2'x3' deep in a house in Maple Ridge. I know the owner of such and, well, there's a chance this booty could be let loose for present and future fun...

Safe travel home and return quickly to the best fun here !
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Feb 24, 2013 - 03:08am PT
MH2, that's Carrie Cooper you are talking about doing the little almost dance. She used to be a pro dancer, definetely has some moves. She's a total babe and a crusher of rocks. I was very happy to film her :) She's a beautiful mom now and still a crusher of rocks.

Ahh yes the Brutal pub. Nasty food and even the beer was crappy this time. I swear the burger there has changed at least twenty times. You never know what you are gonna get. Good thing there was good company and good craic to make it all better.

See ya soon Paul!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 24, 2013 - 03:35am PT
If it comforts you Relic, the food and service and beer of the "Brew Pub" have followed the same edict from the beginning and that is, " We're not happy until you're unhappy" !

I had to pussy foot around the BREW MASTER himself at a VIMFF slideshow recently.

Dude had an opinion... Consumer gut had another.

O Sacred Brew Pub...

If the staff would show up on occasion at least twice in an hour to descend from,

All I CAN...

the tips would be all you could !
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 03:36am PT
Thanks for the pub pics. I can 'shop them in my mind.

Thanks Andy! I'm pretty sure no amount of 'shoppin could save those ones, but I figured it was the thought that counted ;)

Hope you had a fun night Jim! I think I may have turned the corner on the wall rat thing. It's just a matter of having the right partner. Maybe some day I might want to borrow a few of those pins..

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