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Messages 5381 - 5400 of total 7209 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
markr

Trad climber
Feb 21, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
Where you been, Mike?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 21, 2013 - 10:18pm PT
Where you been, Mike?

Bumbling up candy-ass 5.8s at Red Rocks, that's where. It'll probably take him a full year to come to terms with Squamish climbing again. And he may have completely ruined his chances of ever climbing at Index.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 21, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
Yep that's kangaroo corner.

Think I mighta recognized that , eh? Well, yahhhh, BITD we din't have no ABOVE-THE-CLIMBER shots :-D hahahahahha

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 21, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
That was a tricky one Tami, i couldn't figure it out either until i saw the blast holes :-)


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 12:06am PT
Bumbling up candy-ass 5.8s at Red Rocks, that's where. It'll probably take him a full year to come to terms with Squamish climbing again. And he may have completely ruined his chances of ever climbing at Index.

Highly doubt that!! Sandstone is rad but granite is my first love. Index is a must also. As to the grades I've been climbing, well, you can't always get what you want... But at least I've been climbing 9 out of the last 11 days... Can you say that Dave??

Markr check out "Vegas baby! Vegas!"
squamishmonkey

Trad climber
Squamish
Feb 22, 2013 - 10:16am PT
I added the anchors under the roof and cleaned up the first pitch of the Terror; we also added a proper anchor to the end of the route. I was distracted by other projects and my partner took it over. The route goes at 11b/c by Finlayson and that bolt has sprouted since last summer, he cleaned the pitch and sent the same day.
browniephoto

climber
bc
Feb 22, 2013 - 11:03am PT
Credit: browniephoto

The Kid was practicing his expanDo nut placements at the SABC meeting last night...
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 22, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
But at least I've been climbing 9 out of the last 11 days... Can you say that Dave??

Well, sure, I could say it, but it wouldn't be true. I think I got to the gym once, and might even go tonight. But I'll be bumbling my way up a bunch of candy-ass Red Rocks 5.5s and 5.6s in a couple of weeks, too.

When you do get down here this summer, let me know. I'd love to get out with you. As long as you're willing to hang with someone for whom Red Rocks 5.6 is now serious.
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Feb 22, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
The route goes at 11b/c by Finlayson
That's an unexpected surprise! I suspect that because it looks so fearsome, it's kept most suitors away.

K
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
Red Rocks 5.6 should be considered serious for anyone!! Talk about Cheese grater!!!! The harder routes are less featured and you actually might survive a fall unhurt.

As to if I'll climb with you, the answer should be obvious. Of course I will!!! Easter, Leavenworth, lets make it happen.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 22, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
11b/c Finlayson could mean a lot of things :-) there's actually a lot of footholds so it may not be far from the truth, he did however also call betazoid 11b/c(12b) after warming up on it one day so.........
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Feb 22, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
Hey Casper the candy ass, I'm proud to say I love doing aesthetic 5.6s even though I onsight 5.14 except at Index where I'm lucky to get up a 5.9. Grades are hard down there.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 22, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
I'm proud to say I love doing aesthetic 5.6s even though I onsight 5.14 except at Index where I'm lucky to get up a 5.9. Grades are hard down there.

No sh#t. I think it was Jim Donini who once said "If you can climb at Index, you can climb anywhere."

I don't think it's the grades, because no matter how soft or sandbag the grades, you pretty soon adjust. I think it's more that the rock there requires a higher level of commitment at whatever grade. Most places offer a variety of commitment levels. At Squamish there there is plenty of climbing to be had at whatever level of commitment you are prepared to accept on any given day. Whereas at Index there are relatively few climbs -- at any grade -- that don't require you to bring everything you have.

That, plus the fact that there just aren't very many easy climbs.

Anyway, back to Squamish...
Not all climbing at Squamish is in an urban junkyard.
Not all climbing at Squamish is in an urban junkyard.
Credit: Ghost
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 22, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
Omega, Pelops and Niobe :-)

Ahhhh, some excellent memories of those cute peaks. Damn that ridge on Omega but it has a stupid notch in it with the grab-the-tree-branch crux. Have also climbed it from the other side through the branches and weeds. Rapped down the north-ish ridge side from some dodgy block. Fun times !

Back in the '80's when glaciers lay upon the land, I jumped the 'schrund on that eastern slope between Pelops and Niobe. In '00 it was a 10m wall of ice and snow I wasn't interested in jumping. Wow. The way sh#t melts out. Oy!


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
Just found a link to Relic's flick, No Permanent Address. Apparently he wasn't super happy with the way it turned out, but i think it's rad!!


Trailer


Full Version Download
http://www.ulozto.net/xMQ7LeC/no-permanent-address-climbing-video-avi
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Feb 23, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
I never said that Mike. I was really happy with it when it came out, I just get over-critical when watching it that's all. You are putting words in my mouth!

That's funny it ended up on some euro site for download.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
My apologies. I guess I misinterpreted your comments ;)

Sick film dude. Those euros like to see our rock I guess!
MH2

climber
Feb 23, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
No Permanent Address is a Relic production?! It has a good vibe. There is a small bit where a women tops out on a boulder, maybe in the Happys, and does a brief almost-dance. For me that was unexpected, genuine, and the kind of thing that stands out from the crowd of more high-production climbing videos I've seen. I thought the whole thing was a good look at how regular people(?) go about a life of climbing.
Paul Brennan

Trad climber
Ireland
Feb 23, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
Heading down to the brewpub in about half an hour if anyone cares to celebrate me vacating squamish for a while? Will be there for a while I imagine. All and sundry are welcome :-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
We are currently at the pub. Here's a couple crappy bar pics.




Fishboy, Luke and Aislinn




Paul is stoked!




Relic and Paul




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