markr
Trad climber
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Feb 21, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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Where you been, Mike?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 21, 2013 - 10:18pm PT
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Where you been, Mike?
Bumbling up candy-ass 5.8s at Red Rocks, that's where. It'll probably take him a full year to come to terms with Squamish climbing again. And he may have completely ruined his chances of ever climbing at Index.
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Feb 21, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
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Yep that's kangaroo corner.
Think I mighta recognized that , eh? Well, yahhhh, BITD we din't have no ABOVE-THE-CLIMBER shots :-D hahahahahha
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 21, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
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That was a tricky one Tami, i couldn't figure it out either until i saw the blast holes :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 12:06am PT
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Bumbling up candy-ass 5.8s at Red Rocks, that's where. It'll probably take him a full year to come to terms with Squamish climbing again. And he may have completely ruined his chances of ever climbing at Index.
Highly doubt that!! Sandstone is rad but granite is my first love. Index is a must also. As to the grades I've been climbing, well, you can't always get what you want... But at least I've been climbing 9 out of the last 11 days... Can you say that Dave??
Markr check out "Vegas baby! Vegas!"
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squamishmonkey
Trad climber
Squamish
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Feb 22, 2013 - 10:16am PT
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I added the anchors under the roof and cleaned up the first pitch of the Terror; we also added a proper anchor to the end of the route. I was distracted by other projects and my partner took it over. The route goes at 11b/c by Finlayson and that bolt has sprouted since last summer, he cleaned the pitch and sent the same day.
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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Feb 22, 2013 - 11:03am PT
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The Kid was practicing his expanDo nut placements at the SABC meeting last night...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 22, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
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But at least I've been climbing 9 out of the last 11 days... Can you say that Dave??
Well, sure, I could say it, but it wouldn't be true. I think I got to the gym once, and might even go tonight. But I'll be bumbling my way up a bunch of candy-ass Red Rocks 5.5s and 5.6s in a couple of weeks, too.
When you do get down here this summer, let me know. I'd love to get out with you. As long as you're willing to hang with someone for whom Red Rocks 5.6 is now serious.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 22, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
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The route goes at 11b/c by Finlayson That's an unexpected surprise! I suspect that because it looks so fearsome, it's kept most suitors away.
K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
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Red Rocks 5.6 should be considered serious for anyone!! Talk about Cheese grater!!!! The harder routes are less featured and you actually might survive a fall unhurt.
As to if I'll climb with you, the answer should be obvious. Of course I will!!! Easter, Leavenworth, lets make it happen.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 22, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
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11b/c Finlayson could mean a lot of things :-) there's actually a lot of footholds so it may not be far from the truth, he did however also call betazoid 11b/c(12b) after warming up on it one day so.........
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 22, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
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Hey Casper the candy ass, I'm proud to say I love doing aesthetic 5.6s even though I onsight 5.14 except at Index where I'm lucky to get up a 5.9. Grades are hard down there.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 22, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
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I'm proud to say I love doing aesthetic 5.6s even though I onsight 5.14 except at Index where I'm lucky to get up a 5.9. Grades are hard down there.
No sh#t. I think it was Jim Donini who once said "If you can climb at Index, you can climb anywhere."
I don't think it's the grades, because no matter how soft or sandbag the grades, you pretty soon adjust. I think it's more that the rock there requires a higher level of commitment at whatever grade. Most places offer a variety of commitment levels. At Squamish there there is plenty of climbing to be had at whatever level of commitment you are prepared to accept on any given day. Whereas at Index there are relatively few climbs -- at any grade -- that don't require you to bring everything you have.
That, plus the fact that there just aren't very many easy climbs.
Anyway, back to Squamish...
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Feb 22, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
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Omega, Pelops and Niobe :-)
Ahhhh, some excellent memories of those cute peaks. Damn that ridge on Omega but it has a stupid notch in it with the grab-the-tree-branch crux. Have also climbed it from the other side through the branches and weeds. Rapped down the north-ish ridge side from some dodgy block. Fun times !
Back in the '80's when glaciers lay upon the land, I jumped the 'schrund on that eastern slope between Pelops and Niobe. In '00 it was a 10m wall of ice and snow I wasn't interested in jumping. Wow. The way sh#t melts out. Oy!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 23, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
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I never said that Mike. I was really happy with it when it came out, I just get over-critical when watching it that's all. You are putting words in my mouth!
That's funny it ended up on some euro site for download.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
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My apologies. I guess I misinterpreted your comments ;)
Sick film dude. Those euros like to see our rock I guess!
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MH2
climber
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Feb 23, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
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No Permanent Address is a Relic production?! It has a good vibe. There is a small bit where a women tops out on a boulder, maybe in the Happys, and does a brief almost-dance. For me that was unexpected, genuine, and the kind of thing that stands out from the crowd of more high-production climbing videos I've seen. I thought the whole thing was a good look at how regular people(?) go about a life of climbing.
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Feb 23, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
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Heading down to the brewpub in about half an hour if anyone cares to celebrate me vacating squamish for a while? Will be there for a while I imagine. All and sundry are welcome :-)
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