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Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 24, 2013 - 08:01am PT
whoa Ryan -good thing you had a granola bar. I had a similar thing happen to a partner up on an alaskan peak. Trouble sure comes out of left field sometimes. I'm just pulling your leg about the pebbles. If you guys used ice tools on them they would be one move wonders! If ever you get bored though you can blow your mind up at Garibaldi. You might even like the landing. No need for pads either with all the snow!
We used to do a thin ice / dry tooling "gun smoke" style traverse on a road cut just north of whistler. It was a ferocious pump and thin enough that you're likely to pop off which usually isn't a good idea with crampons on but there you'd just fall into the big snowplow berm. You couldn't ask for a better crash pad!

Anyway I don't think you'd find me of much use out in the boulders. I'm one of those guys who thinks those pads are mostly for lying on.

Soggy Saugstad fires the V .032 boulder problem to the summit of Chabl...
Soggy Saugstad fires the V .032 boulder problem to the summit of Chablis Spire - sans pad!!
Credit: Bruce Kay

Same trip me and Soggy go marching way up a gnarly avy path up to NEWS and just about where we stop to rope up......

Off to SEWS no pad...... WTF?!?
Off to SEWS no pad...... WTF?!?
Credit: Soggy "the Gnarl" Saugstad

Fact is we knew Beckey had left a stash at the base
Fact is we knew Beckey had left a stash at the base
Credit: Donny "Stone Crusher" Saugstad

On sight crushing it on the mountaineers variation
On sight crushing it on the mountaineers variation
Credit: Soggy "The Mildew" Saugstad
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 24, 2013 - 08:35am PT
Arguing about bouldering vs alpinism is so last century. In fact, even in the last century some of us had moved to the next level -- a combination of bouldering and alpinism in which the true summit can only be attained by bouldering.

You want proof? Look at this shot of Don Serl, taken just after he surmounted the final boulder...



That last move had to be at least V15+, and that was at a time when the so-called best boulderers in the world were struggling to attain V11
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 24, 2013 - 09:23am PT
Aha Bruce, I see now where you completed your training for finestone cowboy! That sequence is hilarious, what/where is that peak?


Sorry to wreck your fantasy Ghost but I don't think anyone is arguing, good job on v16 tho!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 24, 2013 - 09:42am PT
Don could make anything look easy. I mean look at him standing there so nonchalant . Its like he hardly even broke a sweat. We need a roast Serl thread.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jan 24, 2013 - 11:55am PT
Lindsay resent his signature pitch so he seems to be the flag bearer for the rest of us

Bruce, although Lindsay is still climbing impressively hard he does not hold a candle to you, judging by all things you've been doing in the last year. Where do you get so much free time, did you win a lottery or something? Any pics from your climb on Temple crag with Bruce Mac.


This peak is exactly 6.2 km from Chablis spire.Any guesses?
Credit: harryhotdog
Credit: Jane Weller



Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Jan 24, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
I know this probably warrants it's own thread, but in the interest of keeping it BC based, I'm hiding it in here.

This was visited briefly last fall, but it seems to be coming to fruition this spring.

Through communication between the Climber's Access Society of BC (CASBC) and MEC, there has been a arrangement made for a one time (this may eventually become a once-a-year program) purchase of fixed gear for equipping of new routes.

As a current member of the CASBC (only $10 per year!), you will be elegible to purchase hardware such as bolts, hangers, quicklinks, steel bieners and stations at approximately 25% less than MEC retail pricing.

This opportunity comes with a few restrictions which allow MEC to offer this to us:

1. This will be, for now, a one time purchace. Dig the change out of your couch cushons and purchase everything you can, this may not happen again.
2. To keep the price down, our entire order will be submitted and filled by MEC as ONE order. This keeps their labour costs and your shipping costs down. It will all go to either Peter Winter's or my house in Squamish to be divided up into individual orders for pickup or shipping.
3. Everything must be paid for in advance. We may set up a separate CASBC account to handle these funds. Perer and I are discussing this.
4. If you do take advantage of this generous offer, send a big thanks to MEC and the CASBC for doing the legwork to make it possible. Join up, get involved.

Please send me a list of what you'd be interested in purchasing, and the quantities. I will compile a master order, and reply to everyone with when their cash will be due to be included on the order. Questions? You can send me a PM here or email me at krisdwild (at) gmail.com (replace (at) with @). Please send your order lists directly to my email so I can keep better track of them. Be sure to include your contact information In case I have to reach you.

Kris Wild
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 24, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
What controls will there be on the program, to ensure that these anchors (at least) are used appropriately?

From what I've heard, safety will be the chief concern. Anyone who wants to be a part of this program will have to sign a declaration that the equipment will be used only on safe routes, with a maximum runout of no more than 1.5 meters. That declaration must be signed in blood, and in front of three witnesses, at least one of whom must be either a police officer or a minister of religion.

There will be a minumum order of 200 bolts per person, but free power drills will be provided by CASBC to all participants.

Bruce Kay and I have our eyes on a bunch of lines on the Apron. Our plan also includes a bolt ladder up to Broadway. We'll then install a bunch of stations all along the top of the Apron and then rap bolt dozens of diretissimas. And we've already got permission to retrobolt Question of Balance!

There. Do you feel better now?
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Jan 24, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
It's not free gear handed out like candy by the CASBC Anders. It's just quality equipment at a bit of a discount. It's no different than buying a jacket that's on sale. "Wait a minite there, that jacket was sold for hiking! You can't walk your dog with it!"

It's more of a shout out (tip of the hat) to those willing to develope new routes. Thanks for what you do, now here's a bit of a break on the price of good bolts and such.

K
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 24, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
hardly warrants the tenor of ghost's post.

Tenor? Who you calling a tenor? I'm a baritone.
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Jan 24, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
The CASBC is not supplying anything to anybody. They merely brokered an arrangement that will allow folks who already buy this stuff to now buy it at a slightly better price.

It's not like MEC has any rules or certifications required to purchase bolts. If you don't want to save a few bucks on fixed hardware this year then don't participate. Personally, I'm going to scrape together enough cash to try and stock up for the next few years, just in case this opportunity isin't put forward again.

(Written with no disrespect or maliciousness intended)

Kris
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 24, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
Bruce Kay and I have our eyes on a bunch of lines on the Apron.


jeezuz ghost I'm already up shitcreek in MH's book. Besides I really only want to retro Anders Bum. You can do all the apron stuff.

(written with all due tongue firmly welded in cheek intent)
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 24, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
Kidding aside, I think it's a great idea. The new-route community is relatively small, and putting up new climbs is not cheap.

You might ask if MEC is willing to include a few other new-routing essentials in the reduced-price deal: static ropes, ascenders, wire brushes, that sort of thing. That would make sense, and be a big help.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jan 24, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
Now that I'm a full circle fat ass, does this mean the Grand Wall bolt ladders will be helped towards our mutual return to glory ?
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Jan 24, 2013 - 03:48pm PT
Those suggestions of other product to include are duely noted for the next time around, if there is one. For this year we are limited to bolts, hangers, anchor setups, drill bits and steel gym bieners for sport anchor lower-offs.

(I can't imagine the day when MEC sells wire brushes and crowbars!)

K
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 24, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
I can't imagine the day when MEC sells wire brushes and crowbars!

I had originally included crowbars in my list of suggested items, but took it out in fear that Anders might die of an apoplectic seizure trying to reply.

[Disclaimer: I admit it. Not only have I used crowbars in the creation of new rock climbs, I loved it. My favorite crowbar belongs to a friend. It's a four-footer, that weighs a ton. But man, the things we've pried loose!]
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jan 24, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
Dear NateDogOG,

The last picture of me suffering from hungrrr is Tyler's Dihedral, a 5 star problem in the North Walls. If you are of shorter stature, you must do a double handed dyno to that shelf I am grabbing. It is sports action supreme to watch little ones on it.

RyanD very elequently described my near death by hunger experience but forgot to mention the other reason I decided to abort mission mid mantle at the top...

My hand got cold!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 24, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
harry - i guess either cutthroat or Kangaroo. As to your other question.... luck plays a big part.

Having been down there, wouldn't you agree that Wa pass is a really fantastic family alpine destination? We should go try it out this coming summer man!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 24, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
Having been down there, wouldn't you agree that Wa pass is a really fantastic family alpine destination? We should go try it out this coming summer man!

Let me know when you're planning to head south.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jan 24, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
Two for two Bruce, Cutthroat peak, that pic is from 1983 on the west ridge route. Went back with my first wife in 1992 and did a route on the south face and I assured her the descent down the west ridge was casual. Well the intervening 9 years had been filled up with a lot of peaks and a lot of smoke and my recollection of the difficulty of the descent was dodgy at best. She had not done any alpine rock climbing and it was quite scary for her on the descent then when we reached the first rappel it went from 25c and sunny to thunderstorm,cold, wind and snow, full on epic. We did have our little Kway jackets but that was about it. Needless to say I was not a very popular guy for the rest of the trip.

It definitely is a spectacular area with that highway giving so much easy access to so many amazing peaks. Funny enough I have done more alpine along that highway than I have up around your area Bruce.
Did you ever check out the steep 200` cliff below the Liberty Bell lookout. In 1989 we got kicked off when I was rappelling it.I did see some bolts and lots of potential, after that I heard they banned climbing on it but it looked spectacular. I will see if I can find a video clip of it.
I`d love to head down this summer with Ghost as our liason officer as it is his country now. I`ve never done the ridge on Mt Triumph.
MH2

climber
Jan 25, 2013 - 09:14am PT
I think Bryan Burdo bolted a route on that crag under the memorial to the North Cascades highway. Then the route was removed by the USFS.
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