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Messages 5221 - 5240 of total 8117 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Jan 25, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
that video lacks continuity, she was clearly roped in during her climb so where is the 2nd when she is soaking in the view??
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 25, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
Anybody know who the climber chiqua is in the clip ?


Yeah, it's a bit goofy c'os there's no apparent second and the Grand is now one pitch only.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
Funny.. I wondered the same thing!! ;)
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 25, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
Isn't the Rock of Gibraltar limestone?

Or maybe I'm thinking of the one Billy Davidson climbed in the Rockies.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 25, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
I'm gonna punch the next book that lies to my face. Yeah, show it who's boss.

Yeah, Luke, I have no idea where that nonsense started, but you should definitely kick sh#t out of any book that reprints it.

Here's a shot of the biggest chunk of granite I've personally ever seen. Almost exactly 7,000 ft from base to summit. And it was surrounded by thousands -- yes, literally thousands -- of other lumps bigger than the Squamish Chief. And I know there are plenty of even bigger granite lumps that I haven't seen. But try telling that to your local Chamber of Commerce.

Mt. Odin. Arctic Circle marker in foreground
Mt. Odin. Arctic Circle marker in foreground
Credit: Ghost
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 25, 2013 - 11:58pm PT
whoa - are you saying that spur in the middle is 7000 feet? Thats a big route! Anybody climbed it? Thats in the weasel valley isn't it?
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Jan 26, 2013 - 12:07am PT
Anybody know who the climber chiqua is in the clip ?

It's Amy Chernoff. I think she still lives in town, although I havn't seen her around in a few years.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 26, 2013 - 12:34am PT
whoa - are you saying that spur in the middle is 7000 feet? Thats a big route! Anybody climbed it? Thats in the weasel valley isn't it?

Yes, it's Mt. Odin. Base is about 200 feet above sea level, and summit is over 7K. The smaller thing on the left is about 4,500. (Which, for the mathematically challenged Californians who occasionally visit this thread, is about one-and-a-half-times the height of El Cap.)

Odin is pretty much the easiest-to-get-to peak on Baffin Island, and there are some moderate routes to the summit, but it is so f*#king off-the-charts huge that most people just pretend they haven't seen it and roll on up the valley to things that humans can understand.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jan 26, 2013 - 01:42am PT
I bought Mark Synnott's Baffin Island guide book from a clearance bin at MEC. It's a real work of love for an incredible place.

I wish the bean counters of our MEC would return the variety of books available to their rightful place instead of only promoting "how to" books as the only relevant form of literature.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Jan 26, 2013 - 02:52am PT
Looks like I have to seriously ramp up my training schedule....

Problem is Lance Armstrongs doctor has not been returning my phone calls
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jan 26, 2013 - 03:33am PT
MH2 now that you are retired krank meister are you heading down south to warmer climes like Rolf?
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Jan 26, 2013 - 10:35am PT
Brownie Bear in a state of child like wonder and he gazes upon the hea...
Brownie Bear in a state of child like wonder and he gazes upon the head wall above
Credit: Big brother
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 26, 2013 - 11:17am PT

I did a little burn up the backside trail yesterday. I hadn't bothered lately due to icy conditions and a bum knee but all the recent warming had fixed it up fine. I stopped at the big rock and was a bit surprised to see there on the other side of the valley the decaying remnants of "The Dream", a Peder Ourom mega classic three pitch ice route. Looks like we've all been snoozing! That dosn't come in often and it came and went. The Dream is probably the finest ice route that ever forms around here.

There's a funny story there. I was up on the ski hill one day when out of the blue I get a phone call from Peder. He wants to know if I can join him to bag this route up behind the Chief. Our timing isn't right but it makes me think to go climb the "Scottish Tale" in the same neighborhood. Next day me and Beeker (Chris Romeskie) head on up there and sure enough on the approach we find ourselves right under this magnificent object of Peders desire. It is a gorgeous strip of challenging white ice shooting up dead vertical granite walls.

Beeker looks at me with wide eyes and says "Well? what are we waiting for?" Seriously tempting but I just couldn't do it. Fact is, we wouldn't have even been there if Peder hadn't called but even just knowing he was a day short I just couldn't bring myself to poach it off him. Beeker understood so we went off and had a good day on the Scottish Tail then marched back under that shimmering virgin prize at the end of the day.

Bright and early the next morning Beeker, not having any particular allegience to the Bear through any amount of history, recruited his buddy Derek and headed straight back armed for battle. Funny thing is as they're racking up at the base guess who comes up all snorting and huffing up the hill - Peder! After a short little negotiation the three of them rope up. It turns out that Peder totally saved the day with his power drill as that provided the only chance for decent belays. The route went in 3 superb solid grade 5 pitches with just enough ice for a few screws. A week later and its all down on the ground. thats how it goes around here.

The things done now but last week it was probably good to go.

excellent photo there Brownie!
MH2

climber
Jan 26, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
MH2 now that you are retired krank meister are you heading down south to warmer climes like Rolf?


Sure! Me 'n' a group are gonna invade the man's Palm Springs peace 'n' quiet. Or at least road trip to the Richmond Oval.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 26, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
I'm threatening to go. You gotta be careful though. He'll put you to work hanging sheets of drywall.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
Not drywall! At least it's hanging and not taping!!!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 26, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
Either way, wasn't the idea a climbing holiday while crashing at the Rybak pad?

MH2

climber
Jan 26, 2013 - 07:33pm PT
Just try to end up in the right State, Bruce.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jan 27, 2013 - 12:15am PT
Hey RyanD
I enjoyed the bouldering promo which you posted a couple of days ago. Likely it fell mostly on deaf ears! In the interest of full disclosure, I should state that a couple of years ago, that's in 2011, waaaay baaaack in the Good Old Days, I spent a few weeks hanging out with some Pad People. They were interested to learn about the Vermin Minus Scale, which was new to them. That's the scale that goes from V0 down to V Minus10. This new scale allows for entry-level problems, for those unable/unwilling to heel-hook at shoulder height or higher. Very handy!

In return I learned several important lessons from them:

.....According to the North Face Climbing Team, [or one similar?] the bouldering in Tuzgle is supposedly the best so far discovered in South America. Hmmmmmm. There are several videos of Tuzgle on the web, but none of us, of course. Check 'em out

.....Bouldering pads make excellent wind-breaks, esp if it is your turn to cook supper, outside of course, you are at 4,000+ metres, it is the middle of winter, there is a minor hurricane blowing, and the wind-chill factor is around -200C.

.....Pad People are people too!

.....You can't teach an old dog new tricks. Actually I did know that one before.

So here's a few pix:
Pad People at play.  Los Gigantes, Argentina.
Pad People at play. Los Gigantes, Argentina.
Credit: hamie
Pad People on a lunch break.  Tuzgle, Argentina.
Pad People on a lunch break. Tuzgle, Argentina.
Credit: hamie
The locals were not impressed.  Tuzgle, Argentina.
The locals were not impressed. Tuzgle, Argentina.
Credit: hamie
Pad People on a quest.  Valle de las Rocas, Bolivia.
Pad People on a quest. Valle de las Rocas, Bolivia.
Credit: hamie
This is a mini Trigger Finger waiting to happen.
It's always a good idea to read the signs.
It's always a good idea to read the signs.
Credit: hamie
The sign is supposed to read "No Climbing. May fall [over]". That refers to the rock, not to you!
Good idea.
Good idea.
Credit: hamie
Cooking a delicious [?] supper with Simon.  The wind-chill factor was ...
Cooking a delicious [?] supper with Simon. The wind-chill factor was around -200C. Note bouldering pad being used as a wind-break.
Credit: Not me
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Jan 27, 2013 - 11:31am PT
Cool pics Ham-wich!
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