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Messages 5181 - 5200 of total 7834 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 22, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
Sweet pix BK.

Where did you park the sled ? By the knob on the ridge ? Or didja go right up to the ridge that comes off Daltons Dome? :-)

Is that route you did on the n side of Daltons? I thought Serl did the FA.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 22, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
Where did you park the sled ?


Why we punched it deep into the park of course. We belayed off the bumper!

Ha ha just kidding. Damien, being the responsible sled owner / operator insisted (against my hill billy sensibilities ) on parking in at the park boundary, forcing us to do an annoying half hour approach. It seems that most of the enormous sled population up there honor the boundary but of course there's alway a few as#@&%es in every crowd and all that Neve traverse country must be pretty tempting to violate. Its all the honor system so I hope any sledders reading this would be inclined to severely punish any of their breathren that can't handle their sellfish impulses.

Serls route is to the right and goes up Dalton Dome. Damiens route goes direct to Garibaldi. Dons route looks good too and has no serac threat. You can ee Dons route in the picture descending the glacier. Its the face close to the right ridge crest.
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Jan 22, 2013 - 07:33pm PT
DK and BK in it to win it!
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Jan 22, 2013 - 08:21pm PT
Nice climb you guys !
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:29am PT
Perhaps all snowmobiles should display a "disabled" sticker.

Be careful what you say Anders, I've got some friends who don't take kindly to talk like that...

After we finish sledding and shooting, let's go build a gondola, okay?
After we finish sledding and shooting, let's go build a gondola, okay?
Credit: Ghost
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:14am PT
DK and BK in it to win it!

We just won ourselves a really nice day at the tail end of a good spell. There's not too many winter routes like that a day trip from town. The real prize is all those hanging daggers and splatters on that compact wall. It goes all natural so far on lots of knife blades and TCU's but not easily. There's been at least one good lob so far! I don't know why you guys mess around on those little pebbles when there's dragons like this to slay.

Aint nobody calling her disabled
Aint nobody calling her disabled
Credit: Bruce Kay

OK these guys are defective and that sled is close to disabled
OK these guys are defective and that sled is close to disabled
Credit: Bruce Kay

Its really nice when you can leave the stink pots behind
Its really nice when you can leave the stink pots behind
Credit: Bruce Kay

A bunch of defectives looking for defective snow bridges
A bunch of defectives looking for defective snow bridges
Credit: Bruce Kay

wahoo!
wahoo!
Credit: Bruce Kay

nothing defective up here!
nothing defective up here!
Credit: Bruce Kay

Yup all this just up there. I can't stand those bloody defective machines but until we get a proper gondola up there I'll take it even a damn Tundra 200

Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:42am PT
Hey , I know that truck. Years back I put up a “stellar” 11+ crack and face climb near that truck, another one of my "Nebulous "routes. I gave the honor of naming my fabulous creation to my buddy Ian. He found a golf range ball and old LP record in that tow truck.

He named the route “ Range Ball Record Wrecker”. ...... Never let your friends name your routes!

Some potential for a couple more routes there and a rescrub of RBWR would be great. Bring a chain saw and cut the nasty alder in front of the crag.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jan 23, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
Hey BK. Looks like a fun route, although 9 pitches is a bit excessive. That's enough for 3 ice climbs.
With a sled you could access Blue Angel. We always dreamed about getting in there.

Last week Brad and I went to Enterprise, a few kms north of Slocan City.

WARNING!!!!!!!!!!!!WARNING!!!!!!!!!!!!
The following post contains 'finicky details' and other 'minutiae'. Those averse to either/both should now turn their attention elsewhere.

Ice climbing is far from my favourite activity, and most years I manage to avoid it. Last week my main climbing partner Brad phoned to tell me that Enterprise was "in", and we were going the next day. Brad is 6'4", 155 and a local bouncer who does not understand the word "No".

The approach was brutal, the worst winter approach ever. Criss-crossed windfall followed by a boulder field, both covered in about two feet of loose snow. Oh, and steep too. Contrary to reports, the ice was brittle and the top third was not formed enough to take screws, so we resorted to using a top-rope. How lame is that? Brad did three laps, while one was more than enough for me. There were mushrooms and cauliflowers aplenty, a veritable vegan's feast, with multiple chandeliers providing the ambience. I have always contended that chandeliers should be called celery, to maintain the theme!

Enterprise, Jan 2013.
Enterprise, Jan 2013.
Credit: Brad

Please note that I am wearing a thick sweater and a puffy jacket under my parka, [I have done this activity before], and am not quite as fat as I appear--but close.

Photo by Brad. Sorry, no bad-ass video.

Carry on.

MH2

climber
Jan 23, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
Tasteful colour ensemble and eloquent smile.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 23, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
Non-black pants are back in style again so that's worth something.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 24, 2013 - 02:03am PT
Attaboys fer both Hamish 'n' Bruce.

I'm soooooo blown after fukkin' 10hrs of teaching circus. Yeahhhhh.........at least the easiest kids were the last.


Shout out to dugullian for his lovely daughter who makes my day with her cute cute smile & the little group of mischievous she trains with. Yey for fabulous kids.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 24, 2013 - 03:20am PT
Bruce that looks awesome!

I don't know why you guys mess around on those little pebbles when there's dragons like this to slay.

To answer your question I'd love to slay a dragon like that but have no idea how the hell those ice tool things work! Looks like fun though. And I think you're right, you have no idea why we mess around on those pebbles -but I'd love to show you sometime.


This kind of explains why:

Adolfo bearing down.
Adolfo bearing down.
Credit: RyanD

Nate crushing
Nate crushing
Credit: RyanD

Relic sighting
Relic sighting
Credit: RyanD

The moves! You can do moves on perfect rock in the boulders that you never could or would dream of doing when your on the rope. You are climbing cruxes all day! This can be useful when you do run across those impossible feeling moves on a rope. & For those of you that think bouldering is not serious, immediately after the above photo was taken Relic realized his safety was at immediate risk- he had not eaten anything for close to 2 hrs. He did the right thing & from his strenuous half mantel position above the pads he stated to us in a low moan "I'm hungry". As his loyal spotters we knew the situation was dire so we stacked up all 9 crashpads & let him know it was safe to drop the 6 feet to the ground. As soon as he hit the deck I administered a gluten free granola bar and we all crossed our fingers, begging him not to die. With each bite his symptoms started to improve luckily & the rest of the group realized how close a call that had been.
MH2

climber
Jan 24, 2013 - 10:14am PT
Dire! He'll be harder for it, though.
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Jan 24, 2013 - 10:51am PT
Not this Nate. And that last problem looks like fun, what is it?
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jan 24, 2013 - 10:55am PT
I'm just curious, do you guys have a battery powered toaster oven to un-freeze your fingers on that frigid rock. It's the one thing that this body can't handle anymore,it's a recipe for finger injury, at least for this old fart.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 24, 2013 - 11:01am PT
whoa Ryan -good thing you had a granola bar. I had a similar thing happen to a partner up on an alaskan peak. Trouble sure comes out of left field sometimes. I'm just pulling your leg about the pebbles. If you guys used ice tools on them they would be one move wonders! If ever you get bored though you can blow your mind up at Garibaldi. You might even like the landing. No need for pads either with all the snow!
We used to do a thin ice / dry tooling "gun smoke" style traverse on a road cut just north of whistler. It was a ferocious pump and thin enough that you're likely to pop off which usually isn't a good idea with crampons on but there you'd just fall into the big snowplow berm. You couldn't ask for a better crash pad!

Anyway I don't think you'd find me of much use out in the boulders. I'm one of those guys who thinks those pads are mostly for lying on.

Soggy Saugstad fires the V .032 boulder problem to the summit of Chabl...
Soggy Saugstad fires the V .032 boulder problem to the summit of Chablis Spire - sans pad!!
Credit: Bruce Kay

Same trip me and Soggy go marching way up a gnarly avy path up to NEWS and just about where we stop to rope up......

Off to SEWS no pad...... WTF?!?
Off to SEWS no pad...... WTF?!?
Credit: Soggy "the Gnarl" Saugstad

Fact is we knew Beckey had left a stash at the base
Fact is we knew Beckey had left a stash at the base
Credit: Donny "Stone Crusher" Saugstad

On sight crushing it on the mountaineers variation
On sight crushing it on the mountaineers variation
Credit: Soggy "The Mildew" Saugstad
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 24, 2013 - 11:35am PT
Arguing about bouldering vs alpinism is so last century. In fact, even in the last century some of us had moved to the next level -- a combination of bouldering and alpinism in which the true summit can only be attained by bouldering.

You want proof? Look at this shot of Don Serl, taken just after he surmounted the final boulder...



That last move had to be at least V15+, and that was at a time when the so-called best boulderers in the world were struggling to attain V11
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 24, 2013 - 12:23pm PT
Aha Bruce, I see now where you completed your training for finestone cowboy! That sequence is hilarious, what/where is that peak?


Sorry to wreck your fantasy Ghost but I don't think anyone is arguing, good job on v16 tho!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 24, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
Don could make anything look easy. I mean look at him standing there so nonchalant . Its like he hardly even broke a sweat. We need a roast Serl thread.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jan 24, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
Lindsay resent his signature pitch so he seems to be the flag bearer for the rest of us

Bruce, although Lindsay is still climbing impressively hard he does not hold a candle to you, judging by all things you've been doing in the last year. Where do you get so much free time, did you win a lottery or something? Any pics from your climb on Temple crag with Bruce Mac.


This peak is exactly 6.2 km from Chablis spire.Any guesses?
Credit: harryhotdog
Credit: Jane Weller



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