Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2013 - 11:19pm PT
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Ok so who's truck is this! ;)
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 22, 2013 - 08:48am PT
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Where the heck did you find that???
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2013 - 09:30am PT
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Just across the road from hot cherry bend over! In the bluffs.
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Jan 22, 2013 - 10:51am PT
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Next high preasure everyone should get their butt up to Garibaldi. There is a really superb little ice / mixed climb up there that can be done as an easy day trip..... If you have a sled that is. Damien Kally and trevor hunt did the FA a few years ago and Damien showed it to me yesterday. Its pretty moderate in difficulty and its sitting right there outside the living room window.
I really recommend this. It pretty easy but we almost belayed the whole thing (nine-ish pitches) . Too bad about having to ride the stink pot but thats just life around here. Too bad there's no gondola!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 22, 2013 - 11:30am PT
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Looks inviting Bruce, nice pics. If your over 50 you should be able to display a handicapped sticker on your sled to avoid the wrath of Khan. Pleasure to meet you the other day.
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Jan 22, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
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Sweet pix BK.
Where did you park the sled ? By the knob on the ridge ? Or didja go right up to the ridge that comes off Daltons Dome? :-)
Is that route you did on the n side of Daltons? I thought Serl did the FA.
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Jan 22, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
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Where did you park the sled ?
Why we punched it deep into the park of course. We belayed off the bumper!
Ha ha just kidding. Damien, being the responsible sled owner / operator insisted (against my hill billy sensibilities ) on parking in at the park boundary, forcing us to do an annoying half hour approach. It seems that most of the enormous sled population up there honor the boundary but of course there's alway a few as#@&%es in every crowd and all that Neve traverse country must be pretty tempting to violate. Its all the honor system so I hope any sledders reading this would be inclined to severely punish any of their breathren that can't handle their sellfish impulses.
Serls route is to the right and goes up Dalton Dome. Damiens route goes direct to Garibaldi. Dons route looks good too and has no serac threat. You can ee Dons route in the picture descending the glacier. Its the face close to the right ridge crest.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jan 22, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
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DK and BK in it to win it!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Jan 22, 2013 - 05:21pm PT
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Nice climb you guys !
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 22, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
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Perhaps all snowmobiles should display a "disabled" sticker.
Be careful what you say Anders, I've got some friends who don't take kindly to talk like that...
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Jan 22, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
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DK and BK in it to win it!
We just won ourselves a really nice day at the tail end of a good spell. There's not too many winter routes like that a day trip from town. The real prize is all those hanging daggers and splatters on that compact wall. It goes all natural so far on lots of knife blades and TCU's but not easily. There's been at least one good lob so far! I don't know why you guys mess around on those little pebbles when there's dragons like this to slay.
Yup all this just up there. I can't stand those bloody defective machines but until we get a proper gondola up there I'll take it even a damn Tundra 200
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Jan 22, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
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Hey , I know that truck. Years back I put up a “stellar” 11+ crack and face climb near that truck, another one of my "Nebulous "routes. I gave the honor of naming my fabulous creation to my buddy Ian. He found a golf range ball and old LP record in that tow truck.
He named the route “ Range Ball Record Wrecker”. ...... Never let your friends name your routes!
Some potential for a couple more routes there and a rescrub of RBWR would be great. Bring a chain saw and cut the nasty alder in front of the crag.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 23, 2013 - 04:17pm PT
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Hey BK. Looks like a fun route, although 9 pitches is a bit excessive. That's enough for 3 ice climbs.
With a sled you could access Blue Angel. We always dreamed about getting in there.
Last week Brad and I went to Enterprise, a few kms north of Slocan City.
WARNING!!!!!!!!!!!!WARNING!!!!!!!!!!!!
The following post contains 'finicky details' and other 'minutiae'. Those averse to either/both should now turn their attention elsewhere.
Ice climbing is far from my favourite activity, and most years I manage to avoid it. Last week my main climbing partner Brad phoned to tell me that Enterprise was "in", and we were going the next day. Brad is 6'4", 155 and a local bouncer who does not understand the word "No".
The approach was brutal, the worst winter approach ever. Criss-crossed windfall followed by a boulder field, both covered in about two feet of loose snow. Oh, and steep too. Contrary to reports, the ice was brittle and the top third was not formed enough to take screws, so we resorted to using a top-rope. How lame is that? Brad did three laps, while one was more than enough for me. There were mushrooms and cauliflowers aplenty, a veritable vegan's feast, with multiple chandeliers providing the ambience. I have always contended that chandeliers should be called celery, to maintain the theme!
Please note that I am wearing a thick sweater and a puffy jacket under my parka, [I have done this activity before], and am not quite as fat as I appear--but close.
Photo by Brad. Sorry, no bad-ass video.
Carry on.
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MH2
climber
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Jan 23, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
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Tasteful colour ensemble and eloquent smile.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 23, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
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Non-black pants are back in style again so that's worth something.
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Jan 23, 2013 - 11:03pm PT
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Attaboys fer both Hamish 'n' Bruce.
I'm soooooo blown after fukkin' 10hrs of teaching circus. Yeahhhhh.........at least the easiest kids were the last.
Shout out to dugullian for his lovely daughter who makes my day with her cute cute smile & the little group of mischievous she trains with. Yey for fabulous kids.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 24, 2013 - 12:20am PT
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Bruce that looks awesome!
I don't know why you guys mess around on those little pebbles when there's dragons like this to slay.
To answer your question I'd love to slay a dragon like that but have no idea how the hell those ice tool things work! Looks like fun though. And I think you're right, you have no idea why we mess around on those pebbles -but I'd love to show you sometime.
This kind of explains why:
The moves! You can do moves on perfect rock in the boulders that you never could or would dream of doing when your on the rope. You are climbing cruxes all day! This can be useful when you do run across those impossible feeling moves on a rope. & For those of you that think bouldering is not serious, immediately after the above photo was taken Relic realized his safety was at immediate risk- he had not eaten anything for close to 2 hrs. He did the right thing & from his strenuous half mantel position above the pads he stated to us in a low moan "I'm hungry". As his loyal spotters we knew the situation was dire so we stacked up all 9 crashpads & let him know it was safe to drop the 6 feet to the ground. As soon as he hit the deck I administered a gluten free granola bar and we all crossed our fingers, begging him not to die. With each bite his symptoms started to improve luckily & the rest of the group realized how close a call that had been.
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MH2
climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 07:14am PT
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Dire! He'll be harder for it, though.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jan 24, 2013 - 07:51am PT
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Not this Nate. And that last problem looks like fun, what is it?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 24, 2013 - 07:55am PT
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I'm just curious, do you guys have a battery powered toaster oven to un-freeze your fingers on that frigid rock. It's the one thing that this body can't handle anymore,it's a recipe for finger injury, at least for this old fart.
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