Squamish Photos and Stories


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May 10, 2013 - 11:40am PT
Happy Days are Here Again


not much of a
May 10, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
Climbing today?

Yep. I climbed back into my bed at 7 am because
it was raining.


May 10, 2013 - 05:13pm PT
Bruce is right, about top shelf that is.
Big Mike

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
It's nice down here?
Fish Boy

Social climber
May 11, 2013 - 01:46am PT
Bruce, remember a guy named John Guest? I happen to work with him and he mentioned you...

Trad climber
Orland Park, IL
May 14, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
I remember happy days climbing at Squeamish with Hughie.

BTW, anyone interested in old Squamish or other Canadian guides should contact me. I am selling off my guidebook collection. I still have over 400. Shoot me an email and I can send you a list (jimmerson@earthlink.net)

Big Mike

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
I've been sorting a few huge piles of mags that Mooser gave to Wayno for me recently.

This one is definitely a classic...

Keith Ried on the Split Pillar 10b

Kevin Mclane Photo

I flipped through it and low and behold there is a small article by Kevin with these pics,

Greg Foweraker on Burning Down The Couch 12a

Kevin Mclane photo

Dave Lane on Family Ties 13a

Kevin Mclane photo

Very cool mag. I'm hoping to have some nice cragging weather this weekend!


May 15, 2013 - 11:21pm PT
Good stuff Mike, u got some gold in those mags there.

gf looking way honed there on the couch! Very cool.

Hey does anyone know what Dave Lane does or anything about him BITD? He seemed really prolific there for awhile judging by the # of classic pitches out there with him listed as the FA but you don't hear many stories about his endeavors, was he just a silent menace or what? Sure bagged a lot of classics.

Social climber
May 16, 2013 - 12:02am PT
Hey does anyone know what Dave Lane does or anything about him BITD?


Trad climber
100% Canadian
May 16, 2013 - 11:17am PT
Dave Lane was a co-founder of Arcteryx. Climbed the Nose when he was just 15. Sent a major Line on Bagarathi IV in the Himilayas across from Meru with Scott Flavelle. El Cap FA Hockey Night in Canada, Perry Beckham, Scott Flavelle, Dave Lane 5/80. Many FA's in the Waddington range.

Very gifted climber, born to climb kinda guy, a natural.

Flavelle / Lane line climbed the left pillar of Bagarathi III in the above photo
Big Mike

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
Nice to see you again Bruce.

Yosemite update, Luke and Kieran on Salathe!

Tom Evans Photo

The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
May 18, 2013 - 01:11am PT
Ms. Chief, Mighty Kakwa and I finally busted out for a long overdue road trip to the City of Rocks.
First days back on the rock this year and having a great adventure.
Camping is stellar, 10a face is terrifying and 5.9 cracks are burly.
Evicted for the weekend, raining anyways.
Drove north today, stopped and caught a few trout (put em right back) and carried on through Ketchum to Stanley in the heart of the Sawtooths.
Wide open high country, pronghorn antelope and not many people, beautiful.
Back to the City Sunday for another week of climbing.
Should be fit for Diedre and the Buttress by the time we get back.
The older I get, the better I was.



Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
May 18, 2013 - 01:26am PT
Sounds like a great trip, Perry. Where did you wet your line? There are lots of good rivers in Idaho. And a few good lakes. All those forks of the forks of the Salmon provide quite a variety of conditions that can mostly be had in a day with the right vehicle.

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
May 18, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
Greetings from Curry Village y'all.

We got a solid crew of Squamalians down here in the valley and we're getting after it.

Kieran and I took the Amtrak down from Seattle. It was cheap, comfortable and casual.

As soon as we got here went straight to the base of the leaning tower to get on Daryl Hattens "wet denim daydream" which was a spectacular line in a great position.

After we got of the tower we spent a few days casually getting our stuff the the base of El Cap during the days and spending the nights in camp 5.

On Monday after a well executed pre haul to heart ledge we took the afternoon off the swim In the river and relax before racking up for the Freeblast around 5pm. Jus after finishing a smoke offering we heard a familiar voice complaining about sore feet, and it turned out to be Marc-Andre just getting off a lap of the Freeblast after arriving in the valley for his first time only hours earlier.

Marc is rolling with Chris Geisler, one of the most psyched dudes I've ever met. While we were on Salathe they gave Muir wall a ground up free attempt from the heart ledges and got shut down at pitch 17 on some burly 5.13.

After a "rest day" rappelling their kit off the Muir they got on the west face of the leaning tower, and ended up coming down for rest after nearly unlocking the crux pitch but being to pumped to continue.

Rumour has it Marc has Onsighted all of the 10 or so 5.12 pitches he has be on so far.

So Perry's quote about not being able to throw a dead cat in the valley without hitting a wide crack proved to be true up on Salathe; holy crap they jus kept coming and a lack of practise left us exhausted and bloody after each one.
We topped out Thursday around supper time after 3 great days of climbing and : amazing bivy ledges. We bivied again at the top and finished the rest of our beer and snacks and got down yesterday morning.

So that's what's going on Down here. Unfortunately my pictures always turn sideways when I post from my phone to the taco, so no pictures unless you want to grab them off Facebook.

Oh yeah I gotta shout out Kieran for being such a great partner, he killed up there, from efficient leading and hauling to organized belays on his first grade V and VI. Great job buddy!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
May 18, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
Do the Steck - Salathe !

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
May 18, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
Nice work, boys. Hammer-less on Wet Denim?

After you do Steck-Salathe, go up on South Central on the Column. There is a really nice wide pitch on that one.
Fish Boy

Social climber
May 18, 2013 - 02:38pm PT

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
May 18, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
Do the Rostrum boys. Yer ready to send.

May 18, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
Thanks for the report Luke, glad to hear you guys are getting some. Keep after it & love the wide, eventually it's gonna love u back:-)

May 18, 2013 - 06:45pm PT
shit; we're out of lettuce and Lucy is nowhere to be found, team substance abuse is in trouble.
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