Squamish Photos and Stories

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 5141 - 5160 of total 8209 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
Yeeeee ha!!! Killing it boys!! Very nice to see!! I still can't believe you went and hit it up so early!! Radical!!!

Your prose is ever improving Kieran! So cool to see!! Keep at it buddy!
4tomic

Big Wall climber
Vancouver, BC
Apr 27, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
I gave White Lightning a shot yesterday. We hadn't climbed any slab this season, so it was a bit of a wake-up call. To get to the base of Diedre we onsighted Mickey Mouse, which proved to be a good warm up with lots of bolts, though my ankles and calfs were already complaining by the time I finished that lead.. At the base of WL, we weren't sure about the correct line for the 5.9 (we didn't bother to bring the guidebook). For the first pitch we went to the bolt in the moss and then up to the belay station by the block to the right of Diedre. The line was really dirty and mossy, and I think the correct line is actually quite a bit to the right (can someone confirm this?).

I took the first attempt at the 10b pitch. I went directly up from the belay and onto the bulge just under the roof, it got palm sweaty technical there. I had a fairly good hand (albeit sweaty) and was working my left foot up to a solid nub, but a crystal broke under my right foot sending me tumbling down past the belay station. It was about a 70 ft fall despite my belayer pulling in a few handfuls of rope. Needless to say, I got a few bruises and some respectable road rash in several unusual places.

Credit: 4tomic

My partner then attempted the 10b by going up and then moving slightly right (under a bush growing from the roof and a small horizontal crack). He made a placement with a .3 cam (BD), before making the final few moves to the roof. I recommend his line.

He linked the 10b and 10c. We did get a bit of rope drag doing this, might have been good to add a long draw in.

We finished up with the Buttress.

A great and intense climb. Despite the blood I left all over my shoes and rope (and the wall), I will definitely be trying it again. I guess I could have used some more warming up this season before attempting it, but I kind of enjoyed doing it with all the discomfort of being rusty and all my winter fat.

Mad props to all you insane people who did it before there were any bolts. It might only be 10c, but good god it's thin.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 27, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
What a good way to start the work day, awesome photos & stories on my favorite thread.

Kieran, killer report man! Thanks for takin the time to post it up, u should consider posting the it as its own TR? im sure the rest of the taco would appreciate it. Looks awesome up there, I've never been on the right wing but will definitely be hitting it soon, soon as its July- rumor has it that those 2 corner pitches can be linked into the baddest assed 5.10 pitch in town.


4tomic, good stuff there getting on white lightning. That is an awesome route, as for ur ? About the 5.9 pitch I think when we did it I climbed from the base of the first dihedral pitch of diedre out a bit to the right then straight up to the belay, no bolts. It was exciting. I do remember my partner putting a red camalot in the overlap as well.

Edit- 4tomic, just saw ur pic, yikes!! Sounded like a good ride. Did u run, slide, or tumble? Whoooooooah man!

4tomic

Big Wall climber
Vancouver, BC
Apr 27, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
@RyanD : Thanks for the info. I saw the line you are talking about (i.e. the cleanest most direct line). I'll be sure to go for it next time.

edit - As for the fall, I spun around and slid. At the belay station I kind of bounced myself over the ledge so I wouldn't risk a broken ankle. I was moving slow enough that I was able to put one hand on our anchor but I didn't grip down because I thought it'd be a better idea to just ride out the full fall. As I fell past the belay station, I also remember realizing that it was the half-way point in my fall and thinking "Ugh, there's more!?"

It's funny how, in situations like these, we become incredibly detached and rational. Though admittedly, after the fall was over, I spent about 30 seconds just dangling at the end of the rope, curled into a foetal position and whimpering on the inside.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
4tomic nice work on white lightning! And welcome! Thanks for the cool story! Don't be a stranger ya hear! ;)
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Apr 27, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
As far as I recall R rated pitch of White Lightning has no bolts and starts half way across the traverse into the main diedre corner. You can get a number two in the flake at your feet before you go for it to the station 30m or so above. The Crux pitch which comes after the R(unout) pitch was reasonably well protected with 2 or 3 bolts at the stances throughout the hard part.

...70foot slab fall... YIKES!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 28, 2013 - 12:12am PT
70 feet ? Oy, vey.


White Lightning, as done in "the goodol days" had 4 pitches. The 4th final one had zero protection and so was rarely done.

The first pitch had one "chicken" bolt and was fairly run out but not tht scary. It was rated 5.8 in Smaill's guide. It ended at a station below the overlap.

The second pitch went up and over and followed the natural line of holds past three bolts or so to a small tree belay.

The crux pitch was the third pitch with the hard move above the final bolt. I one time took about a 20+ foot fall on it. That pitch ended in the trees.

White Lightning was a popular route in the late 70's & early 80's even before "sticky rubber". The FA was done in Robbins boots.

Peter Croft led a direct pitch on that second pitch - "Wildebeest" ( 5.10d) that was quite poorly protected. I belayed that day & was quite nervous about him completing the pitch. I don't have any notations in my old guidebook other than the name of the route & "two pitches on the slabs between White Lightning & Sickle ; unprotected and hard"

Note: Edited after I thought about it some & realized I had it wrong the first time I wrote.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
Longing to be here again....
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Apr 28, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
4tomic,

I think you had a go with Stirling Moss. It's a route not in any guide but all Squamish slab climbers have had an experience.
browniephoto

climber
bc
Apr 29, 2013 - 02:58am PT
Credit: browniephoto

got on some gritty friction at seal cove today..


Credit: browniephoto

and then wandered down the tracks to the quartz pillar just as the rain started.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 29, 2013 - 03:05am PT
Brownies on fire here, u guys have a look at silver surfer? Anybody done that one? Looks awesome down there.



Edit-

Credit: RyanD
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Apr 29, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
I was nervous watching Robert way above the bolt on this climb, Monday.

What do you need to protect that Andy, that is if you dont have balls as big as the Roberto Unleashed?
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
May 2, 2013 - 12:34am PT
WTF? I found this thread on page six or something. Late hibernation or what? Hockey? You hosers can't let my favorite thread just fade that way.

Speaking of hosers, can one of you put ole Wayno up for a night, this Monday? Preferably in Van. near GF Strong? I'm coming up to visit Big Mike.
Or could someone recommend a hotel near GF Strong? Send me a PM.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2013 - 11:50am PT
Wayno- I know.. If i don't have much to contribute here, this thread hides itself fast.

Post up people!!

Here's an old one of me at the anchors on mushroom
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
Smoke bluffs live feed!!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
May 4, 2013 - 12:46am PT
^^^^

Nice.

A couple of Squamish's finest.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2013 - 02:33am PT
Went up to the top of Penny Lane tonight after a fabulous BBQ provided by the Cormier's.

It's pretty nice to have the smoke bluffs in your backyard!










Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
May 4, 2013 - 03:15am PT
BMF, Monday at GFS. Share light with the big one and I and U.
gf

climber
May 4, 2013 - 10:32am PT
Silver Surfer rules! Today would be a great day to get on it -sunny but not too hot.
Wayno -let us know if u r coming up and i will take you to kloochman for a traverse monday pm
gf
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
May 4, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
Mike got me a room at GFS. I will be there Monday and Tuesday.
Messages 5141 - 5160 of total 8209 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews