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Messages 5121 - 5140 of total 7897 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 17, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
Ha! I wish, I'll set u a 6 move FA in my garage if u want tho!
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jan 17, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
Nah no climbs on that red house's cliff. The owners are super lite.

paypal me some cash for this pls
paypal me some cash for this pls
Credit: Relic
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jan 18, 2013 - 12:51am PT
Well I might as well flog this old nag some more. Here is a pic taken in 1962, with the route marked, also in 1962. The words were added recently to help Marc B with his new guide.

Original 1962 line of South Arete.  The 1966 Math Crack Direct variati...
Original 1962 line of South Arete. The 1966 Math Crack Direct variation is also indicated.
Credit: hamie


Ryan, we didn't do the "sweet crack direct' as the crack on the right was easier. Max 5.4! The bolt referred to by MH was placed later, we used a bong at the top of that section. UF probably thought initially that he had made a FA because he did not see any pin scars. We only placed 4 pins in total, with 2 of those for belays. and 2 for pro including the bong. A single pin was deemed enough for a belay, or for a rappel. [Today some climbers spend more time setting up a station than they spend on the pitch! You need a PhD in mechanical engineering.] Of course we slung lotsa trunks, branches, roots and bushes instead.

When we reached Broadway there was a monster wind blowing [a Squamish wind]. We settled down on what is now called Memorial Ledge for a couple of hours, til it died down. We may have been the first people to visit that spot. Years later I remembered the ledge and the boulder, which coupled with the fact that Jim and I had spent some time there, all made it the obvious place for his plaque. Some time in the afternoon, when we were on Squamish Buttress we made vocal contact with Glenn and his brother Bob. They had just made the 2nd or 3rd ascent of Diedre.

8 or more years ago my friend Aaron Kristiansen [late of Castlegar, now of Squish] and a partner spent a few days cleaning SA, also thinking it was a Beckey route. He was really pissed to hear he had cleaned one of mine [and Jim's] by mistake! Thanks again, Aaron.

It's amazing what you can learn when you turn over a rock......

Happy Birthday to Fred!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

EDIT Uploading this photo was chronically slow tonight. I almost gave up , but didn't want to disappoint everyone. Ha Ha.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 18, 2013 - 01:14am PT
Sorry to disappoint boys, but South Arete is a Baldwin/Mutch route, 1962. Glad that you enjoyed it.

BIG GRIN fer this. Okay so yeah, I'm a few hrs late and a few cents short but, hey, some of us work evenings. LOVELY SHOTS BEING POSTED !!!!

I have some HCBO pix but have to scan them. Will do it tomorrow if I have time. If not, then Sunday or later. This thread rocks the socks off the rest of the junk on the front page . Just sayin'.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jan 18, 2013 - 01:33am PT
Math Crack is merely a derivative.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jan 18, 2013 - 01:33am PT
First you have to define how it relates to Vector.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2013 - 01:44am PT
Clearly Math crack is not = to Calculus
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 18, 2013 - 01:49am PT
First you have to define how it relates to Vector.

Vector is well right of Math Crack, no confusion there.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2013 - 01:52am PT
Umm not getting it? ;) puns......
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 18, 2013 - 02:37am PT
Hamie, your stories/lessons kick ass here man. Very cool to get them from the source, I really liked the words about you & Jim Baldwin on Memorial ledge for the first time.

Pretty awesome to have so much climbing going on & awesome histories on all these routes we get to climb- oh & in January to boot! This thread has got a second wind for sure! Been really cool to meet a bunch of super squampians & get out on the rock these days.


Edit- holy moly Hamie! When was that photo taken? Look at how many trees are in st vitus!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2013 - 03:48am PT


1959 is a typo by Marc B. Correct date is 1966.
Uncle Fred reported "Math Crack" in the 1967 AAJ, page 366. Info courtesy of MH.
On a positive note,you guys likely did the "Math Crack" variation anyhow, as it is slightly more direct. If so, you did a Beckey route.


Actually, it looks like Mclane's had it wrong for almost 30 years. Did no one ever notice this? Or did he just not care to change it??
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Jan 18, 2013 - 10:49am PT
Harry- It's on Blackcomb mtn near the top of showcase t-bar.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 18, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
McLane has had other things wrong for nearly 30 years, too. They've been pointed out, but some things never change.
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Jan 18, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
despite the finicky details and historical errors it was a great outing and a stellar route..
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Jan 18, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
MH2

climber
Jan 18, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
Wow! The good old days are here again.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Jan 18, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
That video belongs in the partners on meth thread.

We were havin waaay more fun then anyone else on the monolith that evening.

Regardless of whos ass got up there first we were there to honour uncle fred, who is apparently climbing rocks down in socal as we nit pickin and sissy fitten over a silly climb to no where
.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 18, 2013 - 03:14pm PT
MH, I'm up for the South South. Don't know if my knees are good enough for the descent from N, but could try. South Gully probably too hard for me these days. Give a call.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 18, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
Hehe that video is awesome
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
Another beautiful winter day... Still no confirmation on the burgers slab route..

Chose a different locale today.. Any guesses??




































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