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Messages 5101 - 5120 of total 8091 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 17, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
Dome it and they will come.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jan 17, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
Sorry to disappoint boys, but South Arete is a Baldwin/Mutch route, 1962. Glad that you enjoyed it. As MH knows, Uncle Fred made the 2nd ascent, and aided up beside a section which Jim and I had done free. He called his 20 foot aid variation "Math Crack", and reported it in either the AAJ, or the CAJ, or maybe both. This was somewhat backwards, as people usually tried to free aid climbs, rather than using aid on free climbs.

See the new Bourdon book P166, attached, or the old Ourom book, not attached!

And it was only 5.4, not 5.9!!!
:) H.

Nice job on Finestone Cowboy. Lookey scarey.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 08:44pm PT

Dome it and they will come.

Hahahahaha.. Jim! They already do come! ;) we don't need more.. ;)


Here's a couple more pics from today.

What route is Kyle on?









I just saw an article claiming climbing in Canada, in winter is limited to plastic and Ice. I call bullish!t!!






brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Jan 17, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
how did Fred do the second ascent(using the direct variation) in 1959 if the first ascent was done in 1962?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 17, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
Sorry Kieran, looks like u guys gotta do tantalus wall before midnight if u want to appease Fred :-) or Angels crest.

Cool shots Mike, is that Movin on over? Or catch me quick?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
Nope. Left of those.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 17, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
how did Fred do the second ascent(using the direct variation) in 1959 if the first ascent was done in 1962?

Fred did a different route from Mutch/Baldwin. Just which of the several cracks Fred did is still uncertain, I believe.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jan 17, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
1959 is a typo by Marc B. Correct date is 1966.
Uncle Fred reported "Math Crack" in the 1967 AAJ, page 366. Info courtesy of MH.
On a positive note,you guys likely did the "Math Crack" variation anyhow, as it is slightly more direct. If so, you did a Beckey route.

Glenn. What is uncertain is how UF et al reached the base of Squamish Buttress, above Broadway in 1959, but it was definitely not via S Arete. In the 1967 AAJ he acknowledges that Math Crack was a variation of an existing route.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 17, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
Hey cool history boys, Hamie- why didn't u guys go direct up that sweet crack? Especially if it was only 5.4 :-) I think S arÍte is the most under rated climb on the apron. Much more interesting climbing than Calculus at the same difficulty, I guess the 8' of OW keeps the crowds at bay.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 17, 2013 - 10:42pm PT

Glenn. What is uncertain is how UF et al reached the base of Squamish Buttress, above Broadway in 1959, but it was definitely not via S Arete. In the 1967 AAJ he acknowledges that Math Crack was a variation of an existing route.

Agreed. But he climbed something....
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jan 17, 2013 - 11:15pm PT
MIKE, THAT PIC OF KYLE IS ON THAT FACE CLIMB LEFT OF BURGERS N FRIES AND I HAVE CAPS LOCKKKKKKKKKEDDDDDD
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Jan 17, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
Looks right of B+F to me
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 17, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
Oh ya foot in da GRAVY!


Edit - nope that's left
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jan 17, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY HOT CHERRY BENDOVER PICTURES THEY WOULD LIKE TO SHARE? MY SPANK BANK IS GETTING OLD AND TIRED
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jan 17, 2013 - 11:21pm PT
WELL KID COMER, IT DEPENDS ON YOUR PERSPECTIVE DOESN'T IT? KIERAN'S LEFT OR SUPERTOPO CREEPERS RIGHT I GUESS........
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 17, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
Peaches and Cream is the only route worth talking about on that crag.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jan 17, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
Hey Hot Cherry Bendover is for sale if any u OG's got an extra 3/4 mil layin around? It even comes with a house!

I don't think that house has been on the market recently. Are you getting it confused with the red house at the end of Plateau Dr. with a 20m cliff in the backyard?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
Comer is right. Right of burgers.

So the direct roof exit to south aret is "math crack"?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 17, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
I'm not sure Relic, just what a friend told me. Are there climbs in that backyard on plateau?? Would be so cool to own a cliff!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
Shotgun first 10+ fa on Ryan's private crag!! ;)
Messages 5101 - 5120 of total 8091 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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