Squamish Photos and Stories

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thekidcormier

Gym climber

squamish, b.c.

Jan 17, 2013 - 12:49pm PT

Ya too bad some one chopped my fixed chain.eh..

brownie has an.awesome video of him sykin up to onsight the crux of the route.while simul climbing and videograhing at the same time. sure hope he posts it.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 03:29pm PT

I think he's a bit busy at the moment...

thekidcormier

Gym climber

squamish, b.c.

Jan 17, 2013 - 04:24pm PT

Dont tire him out too much. we got to practice our night climbing some more this evening to hone our skills.

thekidcormier

Gym climber

squamish, b.c.

Jan 17, 2013 - 04:39pm PT

Already all booked up this wwekend.

Any one up for half priced appies this evening at the shady tree?? Then maybe a romp up the SB connection or some head lamp cragging?

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 04:44pm PT

Looks nice this weekend. We'll probably get out both days Anders.

Shoot me a message

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Jan 17, 2013 - 04:49pm PT

Dome it and they will come.

hamie

Social climber

Thekoots

Jan 17, 2013 - 05:27pm PT

Sorry to disappoint boys, but South Arete is a Baldwin/Mutch route, 1962. Glad that you enjoyed it. As MH knows, Uncle Fred made the 2nd ascent, and aided up beside a section which Jim and I had done free. He called his 20 foot aid variation "Math Crack", and reported it in either the AAJ, or the CAJ, or maybe both. This was somewhat backwards, as people usually tried to free aid climbs, rather than using aid on free climbs.

See the new Bourdon book P166, attached, or the old Ourom book, not attached!

And it was only 5.4, not 5.9!!!
:) H.

Nice job on Finestone Cowboy. Lookey scarey.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 05:44pm PT

Dome it and they will come.

Hahahahaha.. Jim! They already do come! ;) we don't need more.. ;)

Here's a couple more pics from today.

What route is Kyle on?

I just saw an article claiming climbing in Canada, in winter is limited to plastic and Ice. I call bullish!t!!

brownie

Trad climber

squamish

Jan 17, 2013 - 06:09pm PT

how did Fred do the second ascent(using the direct variation) in 1959 if the first ascent was done in 1962?

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Jan 17, 2013 - 06:26pm PT

Sorry Kieran, looks like u guys gotta do tantalus wall before midnight if u want to appease Fred :-) or Angels crest.

Cool shots Mike, is that Movin on over? Or catch me quick?

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 06:37pm PT

Nope. Left of those.

Tricouni

Mountain climber

Vancouver

Jan 17, 2013 - 07:21pm PT

how did Fred do the second ascent(using the direct variation) in 1959 if the first ascent was done in 1962?

Fred did a different route from Mutch/Baldwin. Just which of the several cracks Fred did is still uncertain, I believe.

hamie

Social climber

Thekoots

Jan 17, 2013 - 07:21pm PT

1959 is a typo by Marc B. Correct date is 1966.
Uncle Fred reported "Math Crack" in the 1967 AAJ, page 366. Info courtesy of MH.
On a positive note,you guys likely did the "Math Crack" variation anyhow, as it is slightly more direct. If so, you did a Beckey route.

Glenn. What is uncertain is how UF et al reached the base of Squamish Buttress, above Broadway in 1959, but it was definitely not via S Arete. In the 1967 AAJ he acknowledges that Math Crack was a variation of an existing route.

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Jan 17, 2013 - 07:42pm PT

Hey cool history boys, Hamie- why didn't u guys go direct up that sweet crack? Especially if it was only 5.4 :-) I think S arête is the most under rated climb on the apron. Much more interesting climbing than Calculus at the same difficulty, I guess the 8' of OW keeps the crowds at bay.

Tricouni

Mountain climber

Vancouver

Jan 17, 2013 - 07:42pm PT

Glenn. What is uncertain is how UF et al reached the base of Squamish Buttress, above Broadway in 1959, but it was definitely not via S Arete. In the 1967 AAJ he acknowledges that Math Crack was a variation of an existing route.

Agreed. But he climbed something....