RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 16, 2013 - 01:21am PT
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Haha that was funny Nathan, we'll corrupt you in the boulders yet. You have to admit those easy highballs are fun.
Bruce, deadly is an understatement. That thing is mega, 5 stars! I agree with the 1 long pitch , the hanging belay sucked & I had to do the other 1/2 of the pitch & miss out on the summit pitch lead but it was still an awesome TR. what a position.
It was funny, Josh had done the route like 10 yrs ago when Bob Ali drug him up there as a pup. He thought he remembered everything but clearly he remembered nothin! Haha so he brings me to the crappy hanging stance & sez " it's easy 5th up to a 5.10 slab. So I pull off the belay thinking I'd just TRon'ed the crux & I'd probably just go all the way to the top. All of a sudden I'm in 5.11 land straight off the belay not wanting to fall on Josh, I reached in my chalk bag but found only sand, there's a bit of water but not too bad, I take a fall at some tricky traverse moves then get to a decent rest with a few hangs. I think for a second it's over after a few easier but thoughtful moves before I get to a no hands rest in an alcove. I look up and realize it ain't over & proceed up a wicked stem box, 3 sided, fully exposed, there's a final tricky move traversing out of the stem with some hidden holds before jugs & snow! A delicate mantel onto the snowy ledge & I'm toast! Haha can't wait to go back. I highly recommend this route. There's some hollow blocks but the rock is mostly great & the position is incredible! The final pitch is stellar, a bit reachy to clip the bolt off the ledge under the roof but the movement is awesome! Delicate & so exposed! Much gratitude Bruce, maybe its been the weather this fall but i can't remember the last time I had so much fun on a route!
Some possibly useful beta: Josh led the last pitch & lowered back to the ledge after summiting. I cleaned it on TR, threaded the rope & lowered back down. We pulled the rope & with a full 70 were able to rap to the luxurious platform to change back into our shred gear. On the long rap Josh swung over to the right below the midway station & clipped a bolt with a wire on it somewhere to the right of the initial overhanging section. He just made it & with my extra 20lbs he was able to pull me right back into the platform.
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Jan 16, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
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excellent shooting mike.
about where that last guy is you toss your leg up over head and hook your calf on a ledge then the hard part is slapping the arrete to get yourself hoisted up "into the saddle" at about 11b or so.
Alternately do a little 10ish face climbing to the right. Its so cool doing the saddle move though
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Jan 16, 2013 - 01:58pm PT
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WOW.............just ..........WOW !!!!!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 16, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
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Sick shots Mike and Ryan!
While you guys were up in the alpine I snuck out of work and sniped an FA....
So as of right now it goes at 5.6 C1, I bet a free ascent would require a couple 5.11+ moves to get under the roof and a move or two of 12+ or even 13- to get through the roof.
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Jan 16, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
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Nice self portrait of your belayer - the brindle furry bugger in the first shot. BIG GRIN.
DOG IS MY BELAYER.
Go, Luke, go !!!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 16, 2013 - 07:52pm PT
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Nice Mike!! Such killer shots man, you definitely deserve a lens upgrade!
Sid Comer, is cariboo crack the leftmost line on respiration rock?? Nice one, I like the Yula pic.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 16, 2013 - 08:03pm PT
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It sure is Ryan. Go free it!
Per-spray alert'
Kieran and I are takin drus suggestiion and are currently racking to repeat a Beckey route ithis evening in honour of his 90th birthday... Any guess' as to what were gunna send? Donations are welcome and can be deposited directly in my Paypal account, pm me for details.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 16, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
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If ur doing angels crest tonight I'll consider a donation, depending what kind of drugs ur doing of course.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 17, 2013 - 01:15am PT
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We did a free ascent of the "south" "aręte" which in fact is neither south nor an aręte.
The ascent was assisted by Hal Johnson and Joanne Mcleod endorsed vitamins, fried chicken with jalapeńo and white cheddar dip, as well as marijuana and some accidentally ingested paint fumes...
Kieran rocked a rope harness
I sported the Cadillac of swami belts, the Yates big wall 200!
We led the route in 3 pitches to broadway ledge and 3 pitches across broadway, which was the crux for sure.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 01:34am PT
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Hahahaha!! Awesome!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 17, 2013 - 07:24am PT
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Worthy of the Piolet D'Or for sure.
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Jan 17, 2013 - 08:16am PT
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Talk about a retro party - a bowline on a coil and what looks like an old Forest Swami! I hope Uncle fred gets a look at this. I think it would make his day!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 09:02am PT
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Hahaha Nice boys! Does Kierans harness have leg loops?? How was broadway?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 17, 2013 - 09:08am PT
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Getting across broadway was hellaa gnar, ice lower outs and dynos.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 09:15am PT
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That's so funny, good route choice too. That things super fun. You guys didn't consider those easy raps into the gulley, or would that mess with the fun scale too much?
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Jan 17, 2013 - 09:25am PT
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An ascent to go down in the anals of Squamish. Ummm..... make that annals.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 09:38am PT
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^HA!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 17, 2013 - 09:45am PT
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Great climb, guys! Unca Fred would love it!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 11:14am PT
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Too bad that fixed rope u guys put up there on broadway in the summer got chopped again.
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