thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 13, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jan 13, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
ya Cornhole Flakes is 5.7 now ever since the crux hold broke. Not the first crux, the fourth one where you grab that big flake thing. It shifted a little making it desperate and off-balance. I think the hand crack shrunk too or maybe I'm just a fatty.
+1000
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 13, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
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Mike, look at the 2nd pic of Kyle on Cornholio(DEATH) Flakes. Does that look 5.7 to you? DOES IT PUNK??????
UHHHHUHH NOOOOOOPE.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 12:05am PT
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I love the reactions I get to the funny grades I find in the books ;)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 01:57am PT
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Hey Mike, did I ever tell ya how much I enjoy yer pics. I also like your way with words.
Cheers again bro on a great thread.
I always come back and I am never disappointed.
Of course, all you other hosers make it real.
Most of you Frosties have already made the Shift.
Go ahead, roll yer eyes, I just been drinking.
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Jan 14, 2013 - 08:45am PT
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I still quite firmly believe Health Hazard is fully 13a.
in January anyhow. Which would make it my first 13a (red point not OS I feel obliged to reveal although technically, due to the passage of time and grey matter it was really a Alzheimer Flash) So I've already ruthlessly slaughtered my first new years resolution. Next up, A one day romp up Slesse's NE Butt in winter. Should be a piece of piss after health Hazard. Unless its cloudy then forget it, I'll move on to my other resolution to renew my relationship with taverns and beer, which I have neglected of late due to a woefully miss directed focus on health and fitness. While you guys were leading the new wave on corn flakes I was making the first cautious moves in that direction and I'm glad to report the future looks promising in this regard. I'm pretty sure I spotted Anders there as well.
I promise a full trip report upon a successful resolution
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jan 14, 2013 - 09:13am PT
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My first time for that climb was a few decades ago and it's still quite fresh in my grey matter. I ran into Perry one day in the bluffs as we were both soaking up as many routes as possible. He talks me into health hazard, assuring me it's not too bad. I'd looked at that pitch on and off for years but somehow always heard and thought it to be very reachy. Perry's arms could probably span a full size domestic pick-up but I'm more like an import. Anyway, up I go with lots of encouragement from the Chief at the base. I survived, but it was reachy. Good thing I had faith in him having faith.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jan 14, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
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A few bolts? Oh geeze, I hope I'm remembering the right climb. I was talking about the climb up the arete, but it only had two bolts at the most. The funniest part is if one were to sift through the Chief's rack for work, you'd find many sandbags, as weights.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
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Yup you are. There are still only two. I wasn't sure if there were any back in the day.
Sandbags eh? Did you guys play practical jokes with them or what ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 14, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
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I wouldn't know - I put them all in my friend's packs for safekeeping, and have no idea what they did with them.
[Add: Harry, didn't you get some film of me in a climbing competition at Cliffhanger once?]
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
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Sandbagging, literally.. ;)
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MH2
climber
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Jan 14, 2013 - 08:26pm PT
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Really liking your photo work, Mike.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
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Thanks Andy! I must say, I'm really impressed with this phone! It's too cold to fiddle around with a slr on a rope right now.
You must have a couple more shots I'd like to see, no? ;)
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 14, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
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Hey Big Mike, Kyle soloing with the chief and the weird clouds in the background is a keeper.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
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Thanks Harry. I agree. I found the option in my HDR app to save both the images it takes, so I can do my manual edits. Sometimes I can get a much cleaner image stitching the two images and the colors are amazing because they are real and not computer generated approximations.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 07:53am PT
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Any one else taking advantage of the afl for some alpine climbing today?
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Jan 15, 2013 - 10:42am PT
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Mike - I do believe Ryan is up there and I think I'll throw my shoes and stuff in my pack to go see if I can catch up. If you can get away give me a call!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 15, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
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Bruce! We missed you, but we did have an amazing day climbing on the route that you & Brian put up. What an awesome vision you had for this feature!! One of the funnest multi clips I've ever done. My secret weapon rope gun was even nice enough to stop at the hanging rap station to set up a nice uncomfortable belay so I got to deal with the weirdness above which seemed like the crux. That first pitch done as a whole 35 m rig would be a doozy. As for the temps, you were right its a little thermal trap down there- T shirt weather and glorious sunshine. Much warmer than anything I've climbed in Squam since Nov.
I agree that a bolt at the bottom to protect the belay would fit well with the character of the route. Looks like I'll be heading back up there at some point so will happily drag the drill & fix er up. We didn't get bouted but def didn't send, some challenging sequences & hidden holds on the 5.11 bits.
Again great job Bruce, here's the fruits of your labor.
My only question is where were the dbl heel hooks?? I did a few kneebars on the opening layback but never found any heel hooks! Remember I'm a pad person I'm usually all over those things!
Rad day.
Big Mike thanks for coming up & hangin out, can't wait to see your pics unless they're already posted as I've been writing this post 6 words at a time since I started work 3 hrs ago.
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Jan 15, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
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Hey! Glad it worked out today. Sorry but I got stuck in the orifice. Maybe tomorrow if you guys are still keen. I've never climbed on the Spanky wall if anyone is into it give me a call.
Deadly route eh? Next time go for the big pitch instead of that gross handing belay. thats just for getting off with one rope. The only heel hook I can think of is more like a calf hook about where you are in the last picture. The deal is left calf hook and pull up into the saddle - thus the Finestone cowboy!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jan 15, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
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Had a fun time romping around the boulders on Sunday with Relic Brownie RyanD and Ais. A little less roped climbing than I was originally hoping for but it was good to be back.
We hit up Crackhead, which I decided was a great place to practise my offwidth roof skills. A minor epic followed when I used a hand-fist stack to shove my feet deep into the crack and promptly got stuck. Upside down, being held in only by heel-toe cams, I was trying to regain my initial type of jam, but tired out my core to the point where I had to call for a rescue.
Brownie may have pics to go with the story.
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