Squamish Photos and Stories

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 5061 - 5080 of total 7834 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 8, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
Welcome home Bruce! Looks like an all time trip, good for you man, i hope u had a blast. Awesome photos too! Where's the full TR?






Did u say bouldering?!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
Ya buddy!! Sick!! Looks like ya had fun out
There!!
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Apr 9, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
Someone completely unrelated to ST posted this video on the VRGC site so I had a look and lo and behold look who it is! Hope you don't mind me posting this here.


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
Hahahahaha!! Lol!

Lurker Kyle! What site was it posted on Harry?
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Apr 9, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
So BK, now that you have seen that staples are quite common abroad, I dont even think they use anything else in Spain, what do you think about them being in use here?

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
Kyle says it's not him. Weird. He's got a doppleganger!
MH2

climber
Apr 9, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
Maybe the 2 Kyles will meet the 2 Véroniques.



Maybe that is too obscure.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Kyle talked to Robin yesterday about staples. This was his reply:

we talked a fair bit on staples and his thorough testing on them. He also explained how they are actually much safer than most other bolts, because bolts can pop out if the rock inside deteriorates. With the glue ins, water can not penatrate the epoxy.

A good example was the route we were climbing right beside him: catscan. The bolts were rusty and had probably compromised the rock that we could not see. He says people use silicone or something to keep water out nowadays, but you can't tell from looking.


Our rock here is much stronger than most other places, so bolts hold very well. Most other places in Europe use staples not for there cheapness but because of the water/ intrusion factor.

Another reason he uses his systems is simply because people were stealing his hardware straight off the rock in certain places.


I asked him about how long the glue lasts and he said they told him 50 years. He doubts that, but is sure it will last a long time.

About the removal with a crowbar; that's a slot of leverage power which he figures is probably exerting around 4000 pounds to remove them with an outwards jerk. The staples are drilled two and a half inches deep at a downwards angle, so in a lead fall scenario you couldn't mimic an outwards torque.

Robin if you are reading this, thank you for your interest in my health. It means a lot. Best wishes to you also sir!


Mh2, Veroniques joke definetly went right over my head.. ;)
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Apr 9, 2013 - 05:15pm PT
Thanks Mike
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 9, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
How many of those staples are three sigma tested? What's the variation in strength with quality control?

How about those stupid chiseled-out keyhole nut placements in blank rock?
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Apr 10, 2013 - 01:09am PT
I thought this was funny...

Robin Barley.
I find it best, and considerably less frustrating, to see Robin less as a climber or developer of routes and more of a force of nature. You can get upset all you want at the approaching storm, shake your fist at the clouds, even yell at the rain. But the storm -like Barely- couldn't care less what you think and will not be stopped. So like the storm, it's best to just sit back, watch in wild wonder then go out and pick up the pieces after the storm has passed.

Aaron.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 01:18am PT

How many of those staples are three sigma tested? What's the variation in strength with quality control?

Dunno. Don't think they have a stamp on em.. ;)


How about those stupid chiseled-out keyhole nut placements in blank rock?

That's just wrong. Where??

On a lighter note, i booked a campsite for Facelift. So......

Who's comin with me man!!

Besides brownie i hope.

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 10, 2013 - 01:22am PT
Cool video Harry thanks for posting, we call that first problem pinch problem tho, stunt dbl is the infamous Cortez.


Bruce, I'm proud of anyone who goes to font. That place is a lifetime of type 1 fun, just follow the arrows.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 10, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
A friend of mine, perhaps hoping to retire early, is reluctantly offering this rare and valuable piece of Canadiana for sale. Something to own and treasure for a while, and then sell later to feather your own retirement nest.

Credit: hamie

Condition:
.....Some yellowing, otherwise good [fine?]
.....Content now 33 years out of date.
.....Name of previous owner [Larry Ostrander] inside front cover.

Those living in the Vancouver area may be able to arrange a signature from the maestro himself. A similar copy is listed for $35- plus postage $10- by Chessler.

PM me. or post offers on this site. When I get your cheque, I will mail the book, with no charge for postage. Such a deal. :) :)

EDIT In case you wondered, the complete guide is for sale, not just the front cover.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 10, 2013 - 06:05pm PT
Formerly of Larry O ? How did you come to be owner of it ? Larry's been gone now for , ohhh, gosh? 20 years ? He was here in Van, working at MEC as their shipper/receiver guy in the 80's before he relocated to Cowtown.

He did some hilarious artwork while at MEC - guerrilla style stuff the mgmt weren't so very fond of.

Quite the iconoclast, our Larry. Too bad he suffered some personal demons....
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Apr 10, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
Naming the climb 14 shutouts in Skaha was Dean's way of paying tribute to Larry. Apparently he had a streak of 14 shutouts in a row playing hockey. I don't know what league.

My memory of Larry was at some of Dean Hart's parties at Ontario/25th. Between the giants of Larry,Dean,Randy,Ed and Andrew Spat I felt like I was 5'3" You would of fit in well Mike.

Larry did alot of climbing in the rockies also. Another missed soul.

Here is one of the cliffs Larry developed near Calgary.

Credit: harryhotdog
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 10, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
Tami, I am not the owner. It belongs to someone in Rossland, but hopefully not for much longer.

That's one impressive crag.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Apr 10, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
Nice slide show Brownie !
browniephoto

climber
bc
Apr 10, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
because it's fun..

https://vimeo.com/63780154


and the other one, reposted at jim's request..

https://vimeo.com/21137488
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Apr 10, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
Damn, Brownie;

The replacement to the deleted is f*#king awesome. THANK YOU !

Don't be coy now, the show misintendeded is currently missing and well worth reposting.

You're showing a lot of visual media talent. Don't hold your self up on what should be appropriate for a site like this. We all like climbing but if climbing were the only thing that matters, it would be justifiably boring.

Take an example from what Peter Haan posts. Artistic expression can be anything delivered by any medium.

Keep up the good work !
Messages 5061 - 5080 of total 7834 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews