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Messages 5061 - 5080 of total 7735 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
hamish f

Social climber
squamish
Jan 14, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
My first time for that climb was a few decades ago and it's still quite fresh in my grey matter. I ran into Perry one day in the bluffs as we were both soaking up as many routes as possible. He talks me into health hazard, assuring me it's not too bad. I'd looked at that pitch on and off for years but somehow always heard and thought it to be very reachy. Perry's arms could probably span a full size domestic pick-up but I'm more like an import. Anyway, up I go with lots of encouragement from the Chief at the base. I survived, but it was reachy. Good thing I had faith in him having faith.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
Wayno- Thanks man! Hoping you're gonna find some time to visit this winter!


Unless its cloudy then forget it, I'll move on to my other resolution to renew my relationship with taverns and beer, which I have neglected of late due to a woefully miss directed focus on health and fitness

LOL!! Good to see you have your proities straight Bruce! :)

Hamish- Thanks for the story! Would you be surprised to find out it sports a few shiny bolts these days? probably not.



I actually bothered editing some of my Iphone photos for a change..


Kyle on the way up from the loop trail





Sometimes things aren't as they appear....


It's actually pretty funny because Bearbreeder is very fond of good pro :)


These ones weren't going on the web without a watermark...















After a quick Kangaroo session we headed over to the Grand Wall Pebs to meet up with the gang.
hamish f

Social climber
squamish
Jan 14, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
A few bolts? Oh geeze, I hope I'm remembering the right climb. I was talking about the climb up the arete, but it only had two bolts at the most. The funniest part is if one were to sift through the Chief's rack for work, you'd find many sandbags, as weights.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
Yup you are. There are still only two. I wasn't sure if there were any back in the day.

Sandbags eh? Did you guys play practical jokes with them or what ;)
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 14, 2013 - 10:58pm PT
I wouldn't know - I put them all in my friend's packs for safekeeping, and have no idea what they did with them.

[Add: Harry, didn't you get some film of me in a climbing competition at Cliffhanger once?]
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 11:02pm PT
Sandbagging, literally.. ;)
MH2

climber
Jan 14, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
Really liking your photo work, Mike.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 12:00am PT
Thanks Andy! I must say, I'm really impressed with this phone! It's too cold to fiddle around with a slr on a rope right now.

You must have a couple more shots I'd like to see, no? ;)
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:11am PT
Hey Big Mike, Kyle soloing with the chief and the weird clouds in the background is a keeper.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 02:22am PT
Thanks Harry. I agree. I found the option in my HDR app to save both the images it takes, so I can do my manual edits. Sometimes I can get a much cleaner image stitching the two images and the colors are amazing because they are real and not computer generated approximations.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 10:53am PT
Any one else taking advantage of the afl for some alpine climbing today?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
Mike - I do believe Ryan is up there and I think I'll throw my shoes and stuff in my pack to go see if I can catch up. If you can get away give me a call!

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
Bruce! We missed you, but we did have an amazing day climbing on the route that you & Brian put up. What an awesome vision you had for this feature!! One of the funnest multi clips I've ever done. My secret weapon rope gun was even nice enough to stop at the hanging rap station to set up a nice uncomfortable belay so I got to deal with the weirdness above which seemed like the crux. That first pitch done as a whole 35 m rig would be a doozy. As for the temps, you were right its a little thermal trap down there- T shirt weather and glorious sunshine. Much warmer than anything I've climbed in Squam since Nov.

I agree that a bolt at the bottom to protect the belay would fit well with the character of the route. Looks like I'll be heading back up there at some point so will happily drag the drill & fix er up. We didn't get bouted but def didn't send, some challenging sequences & hidden holds on the 5.11 bits.

Again great job Bruce, here's the fruits of your labor.



Showcase spire, finestone cowboys climbs the right skyline of the spir...
Showcase spire, finestone cowboys climbs the right skyline of the spire.
Credit: RyanD
Josh seconding finestone cowboy
Josh seconding finestone cowboy
Credit: RyanD
Josh navigating the final 10d pitch of finestone cowboy
Josh navigating the final 10d pitch of finestone cowboy
Credit: RyanD

My only question is where were the dbl heel hooks?? I did a few kneebars on the opening layback but never found any heel hooks! Remember I'm a pad person I'm usually all over those things!

Rad day.

Big Mike thanks for coming up & hangin out, can't wait to see your pics unless they're already posted as I've been writing this post 6 words at a time since I started work 3 hrs ago.

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 15, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
Hey! Glad it worked out today. Sorry but I got stuck in the orifice. Maybe tomorrow if you guys are still keen. I've never climbed on the Spanky wall if anyone is into it give me a call.

Deadly route eh? Next time go for the big pitch instead of that gross handing belay. thats just for getting off with one rope. The only heel hook I can think of is more like a calf hook about where you are in the last picture. The deal is left calf hook and pull up into the saddle - thus the Finestone cowboy!

TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Jan 16, 2013 - 01:24am PT
Had a fun time romping around the boulders on Sunday with Relic Brownie RyanD and Ais. A little less roped climbing than I was originally hoping for but it was good to be back.

We hit up Crackhead, which I decided was a great place to practise my offwidth roof skills. A minor epic followed when I used a hand-fist stack to shove my feet deep into the crack and promptly got stuck. Upside down, being held in only by heel-toe cams, I was trying to regain my initial type of jam, but tired out my core to the point where I had to call for a rescue.

Brownie may have pics to go with the story.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 16, 2013 - 04:21am PT
Haha that was funny Nathan, we'll corrupt you in the boulders yet. You have to admit those easy highballs are fun.


Bruce, deadly is an understatement. That thing is mega, 5 stars! I agree with the 1 long pitch , the hanging belay sucked & I had to do the other 1/2 of the pitch & miss out on the summit pitch lead but it was still an awesome TR. what a position.

It was funny, Josh had done the route like 10 yrs ago when Bob Ali drug him up there as a pup. He thought he remembered everything but clearly he remembered nothin! Haha so he brings me to the crappy hanging stance & sez " it's easy 5th up to a 5.10 slab. So I pull off the belay thinking I'd just TRon'ed the crux & I'd probably just go all the way to the top. All of a sudden I'm in 5.11 land straight off the belay not wanting to fall on Josh, I reached in my chalk bag but found only sand, there's a bit of water but not too bad, I take a fall at some tricky traverse moves then get to a decent rest with a few hangs. I think for a second it's over after a few easier but thoughtful moves before I get to a no hands rest in an alcove. I look up and realize it ain't over & proceed up a wicked stem box, 3 sided, fully exposed, there's a final tricky move traversing out of the stem with some hidden holds before jugs & snow! A delicate mantel onto the snowy ledge & I'm toast! Haha can't wait to go back. I highly recommend this route. There's some hollow blocks but the rock is mostly great & the position is incredible! The final pitch is stellar, a bit reachy to clip the bolt off the ledge under the roof but the movement is awesome! Delicate & so exposed! Much gratitude Bruce, maybe its been the weather this fall but i can't remember the last time I had so much fun on a route!


Some possibly useful beta: Josh led the last pitch & lowered back to the ledge after summiting. I cleaned it on TR, threaded the rope & lowered back down. We pulled the rope & with a full 70 were able to rap to the luxurious platform to change back into our shred gear. On the long rap Josh swung over to the right below the midway station & clipped a bolt with a wire on it somewhere to the right of the initial overhanging section. He just made it & with my extra 20lbs he was able to pull me right back into the platform.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
Josh is funny. He's got the moves down pat but don't ask him how to get there!! My first time on Angel's crest was with him and we had the time honored experience of bushwhacking from the base of the north north aret to the base of angel's. "I think it's this way guys!"


I did some editing last night. Only got a few images done so far though.


Ryand leading the second half of p1 of Finestone Cowboy!


Ever wish you could zoom into one of my images?
















Josh on the roof of the spire p2




















I NEED a 75-200mm for this stuff!!! anyone know anyone getting rid of a cannon eos lens? hmm
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 16, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
excellent shooting mike.

about where that last guy is you toss your leg up over head and hook your calf on a ledge then the hard part is slapping the arrete to get yourself hoisted up "into the saddle" at about 11b or so.

Alternately do a little 10ish face climbing to the right. Its so cool doing the saddle move though
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 16, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
WOW.............just ..........WOW !!!!!
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Jan 16, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
Sick shots Mike and Ryan!

While you guys were up in the alpine I snuck out of work and sniped an FA....

Credit: Aislinn Merkel

Splitter yo
Splitter yo
Credit: thekidcormier


Coming at you like a spider monkey
Coming at you like a spider monkey
Credit: Aislinn Merkel

First Ascent of Cariboo Crack Jan. 15th 2013
First Ascent of Cariboo Crack Jan. 15th 2013
Credit: Aislinn Merkel

So as of right now it goes at 5.6 C1, I bet a free ascent would require a couple 5.11+ moves to get under the roof and a move or two of 12+ or even 13- to get through the roof.

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