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Messages 4781 - 4800 of total 7166 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 7, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
So.



How often does the tusk see a winter ascent?? Hehehe
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 7, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
Mutch appreciated, hamie.

HAHAAHA.


GREAT pic of Shives on that "outer summit" - never heard it called that but it's the perfect name for that pile of vertical poo.

Protection? Yeah, if you carve out a rock bollard..........
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
Ill take granite cracks instead... Thanks ;)
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 7, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
My friends Len and Bill did the Tusk in March 1978, but I suspect it had been done in the winter before then.

I haven't heard of anyone doing the outer peak of the Tusk - the one that's just a few m north of the one that most go to, and a tad higher - since the 1960s. Nor have I heard of anyone doing the blocky peak further north, sometimes called the Bishop's Mitre.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 7, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
I did the main (not outer)peak of the Black Tusk in full winter conditions in 1959; no doubt it had been done earlier. I don't know of any winter ascents of the outer peak. The Bishop's Mitre has apparently been climbed but I don't remember details. There was (is?) a cairn on top.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 7, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
I did the Inner peak (not Outer) in full summer conditions about ten years after Tricouni. It might have been my first true alpine summit and I was totally terrified in anticipation as the thing pretty much looks like Cerro Torre from any angle. It was my first taste of pre epic anxiety as my brothers tortured me with tall tales of all the hazards and unlikely odds of survival. After a sleepless night and ritual vomiting of breakfast I committed to my fate and discovered that simply placing one foot after the other could eleviate the dreads at least enough to persevere past various excuses to scurry back to camp. Amazingly and with incredible relief the first pitches actually wound up looking no more alarming than a typical jungle gym and it was already crawling with a broad cross section of urban society as well as a few dogs.

In short order we were on the summit feeling pretty chuffed..... that is if it wasn't for that slightly higher mound of dung across a sickening vertiginous gap. Nobody else seemed to be paying any attention to this little technicality so we tried ignoring it too, careful to frame it out of the summit photos and never getting any closer than a few lobbed stones trying to knock down the distant cairn.

Any way, for some reason it always stuck in my mind, especially now after looking at Ticouni's picture
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 7, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
Anders doesn't roll with the times. Outer summit of the Tusk's been done 4 or 5 times at least in the last 10 years. Trip reports on the internet and everything.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 7, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
Of course its on the internet. What the hell isn't?

How do I donate?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 7, 2013 - 09:25pm PT
I admit that tracking whether the outer and barely higher summit of the Tusk has been climbed recently is quite low on my priority list. In fact, it isn't even on it. Although as a novelty climb it would probably earn the participants some notoriety, should they want to talk. And I admit to once taking gear in that general direction, with at least the idea...
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 7, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
Are you suggesting that some climbs are NOT novelties?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 7, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
Damn but what a fun thread. My mum climbed the reg summit of the Tusk around 1947. Bruce's mum might have also been along for that one. Tom Fyles did the FA of it in what? 1917 or something stupid like that?

I climbed the reg route with my ex-bf's sister in '78. I was 18 & she was 17. We got up early to be first up the route so not to get crap booted onto our brains. Not like we were wearin' helmuts :-D

Are you sure the cairn on the Bishop's mitre is a cairn and not just some fekkin' choss that fell on top?

Snicker..........
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 7, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
Purely by chance, I was reading a relevant edition of the B.C. Mountaineer (2012), which addresses many such fascinating questions.

The first white known to have visited Black Tusk Meadows was Billy Gray, in 1912. The area had been seen from BCMC camps and climbs in the Garibaldi area, and he surmised that it was accessible from the Cheakamus River side. So by himself, he took the steamer to Squamish (then briefly called Newport), then a motorized 'stage' to Brackendale. He then hiked the Pemberton Trail to Stony (now Rubble) Creek, and found a way to the meadows, near the modern trail. Two weeks later the club camp was held at the meadows, using his route, although they used packers and horses to get the gear to Stony Creek.

The 1912, 1913 and 1914 BCMC camps at Black Tusk Meadows provided a major impetus to the creation of Garibaldi Park. Many of the peaks around and east of the lake were first climbed at those camps, and the first recorded ascent of the Tusk was by Gray, in 1912. The outer peak was first climbed by the redoubtable Tom Fyles in 1917, and its first female ascent by Miss Emmie Milledge at the 1926 club camp, which was attended by about 100 people altogether.

Some photos of the area, and a few ellipsis, at http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/655919/A-Lazy-Hazy-Crazy-Day-TR
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jan 7, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
It's funny that we are always amazed at how young some of the top climbers of the day are but when I look at all the climbers on this thread including the veterans, pretty much everyone started when they were in diapers it seems. I came out of the starting gate late at 20. Who's the youngest start up here?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 7, 2013 - 11:08pm PT
More impressive then those of us who had parents who were skier/mountaineers are guys like Perry who hitched outta MB to Squamish and got his rump climbin' hard before he was 20 yrs of age. No family mentors, just hard core passion and courage.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Jan 7, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
I started when I was 20 too.

My guess would be, although he hasn't posted in a coons age, micro Marc as the youngest to get started, at 9 I think.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 7, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
1917. Tom Fyles descends from the first ascent of the outer peak of th...
1917. Tom Fyles descends from the first ascent of the outer peak of the Black Tusk
Credit: Tricouni

Tom Fyles descending from the first ascent (solo) of the outer, higher peak of the Black Tusk. 1917. Look, no rope! Looks like he built a cairn on top.
Those guys were great!
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jan 7, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
Great pic Tricouni!What was the rock shoe of choice for 1917?
Anders, I was thinking rock climbing or peak bagging.
Here's a couple of young whipper snappers who might want to reconsider what middle age is.
gf

climber
Jan 8, 2013 - 12:29am PT
Its' a slippery slope harry -fun clip -where the hell was that?
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Jan 8, 2013 - 12:41am PT
For the record, I hitched up to Squamish on the way back to the Island after doing a stint clearing pipeline right of ways out of Fort St. John. I was fifteen, that would have been 73 and I was so inspired after watching Big Jim and Janine climb the Grand in the just released Vertical Desert that I HAD to check out the Chief. Arrived after dark, bivied by the long gone locomotive in Stan Clarke Park, had breakfast at the Chieftain then started exploring.

Tried to solo a route on the Apron that I later learned was the Slob just right of Slab Alley. Chickened out on a grassy layback. Hiked up to the base of the Grand and watched Kevin McLane lead the first pitch of Exasperator using pins for pro (and a point of aid). He lashed me into the end of the rope with a bowline on a coil and I managed to get 30 feet up on tope rope before there were no more edges for my mountaineering boots.
Made it back to the Island and climbed my first peak, Mt Albert Edward at 6500' the highest peak on the Forbidden Plateau and was totally hooked on whatever I was experiencing.
I got in trouble with the law and met Fred Put assisting on a session for Hoods in the Woods and he took me on a trip to Mt Arrowsmith. He rigged a makeshift harness and let me try a couple rappels and I third classed some stuff he later told me was easy fifth and thought I was crazy.
Later that summer I went on a Ramblers trip to Marble Meadows where I met Peter Croft, his friend Simon and a crusty old guy named Tom DeGroot who would have been at least thirty at the time. We crossed Strathcona Park climbing a bunch of peaks including the Golden Hinde (I declined the summit) and arrived at the Gold River Highway five days later.

It was almost three years before I met Dave Lane reading climbing books at ABC. He was fifteen, already out of school and pounding nails for a living, had just taken a mountaineering course and needed a partner. We hitched to Squamish, climbed Diedre with me in a swami, wool knickers and vibram boots.
Climbed the Grand with Dave about eight weeks later and the rest as they say, is history.

Hamish still has all of us beat for the toddler's start.
He told me the other day that by age eleven he'd save up a couple bucks and go buy a single carabiner with no idea how or when he'd use it.
He sure showed us!

Just noticed I hit the 4800th post on Big Mike's awesome thread.





Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 8, 2013 - 12:58am PT
now thats the real mackoy right there. Riding the rails and pounding nails at 15.

WE - ARE - LIGHT


of course then there's Joe Turley who chopped his own legs off, sewed em back on then sent Fist in his sleep.


The name Tom Degroot really rings a bell. Any idea where he was from?
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