RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Thanks for the reminder Bruce. I got yer message Tami, check for a reply-thanks!
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Before the subject of obscure pinnacles drifts too far, how about Vulcans Thumb.
Anybody ever bag that thing?
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Health Hazard, a bit of trivia.
I seem to remember at one point it only had only one bolt, ( may be wrong having premature Alzheimers) and a fall after the only bolt , before placing the next piece of gear was really a health hazard.
I meet some one who fell in that section , and missed decking by a three feet, he was still ghost white 24 hrs later!
Man, he looked like a walking zombie!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Most of the rock at Oregon Jack is gray limestone and superb. Only problem is lack of pockets. Garry Brace has a 13c ? roof project there. The only stuff I've climbed is the V1 finger crack on the parking lot boulder though. I heard one of the bolted routes goes at 10d but wasn't motivated. Maybe it was the two foot deep drift of rat droppings at the base that shrunk my sac, I dunno.
There is a bunch of rotten orange yellow rock at OJ too but it's not easy to get to. It's way over left of the falls.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Speaking of Clinton-area limestone, Mt Bowman has some solid crags with rock equal to the best of MC. Only drawback is the 2 hr approach hike from the ranch
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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That is one mean teaser photo .
Robin B told me there is a 30 minute approach to more crags further along Kelly Lake rd. I meant to head up there last sunmmer, maybe this year. I've been told there are also good crags off a spur on Jesmond road towards the Fraser.
Have Drill will Travel.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Rolf you might be interested in this crag on Meadow Lake Road. I think it's on reserve land though. Better bring Perry along if you head up there to bolt. He can deploy the peace pipe.
This next one is just across the road from the other one.
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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You know, I 've heard a few stories and even visited a few of those chilcotin plateau limestone crags and never once did I get the idea any of them were worth a drive even if you lived in Soda Creek.
There's a good reason all those Reds Shred shed guys havn't produced the next Horne lake
Sorry to pop the bubble.... and maybe I'm wrong. I mean surely somewhere there's something worthy but I'd say you gotta be pretty hard up to go looking up there.
There's a reason they all got into dirt bikes
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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There was always a bit of a mystery attached to the FA of Chimney Rock in Marble Canyon. The 2nd ascent party of Culbert/Owens was unable to find any indication of how the first party had rapped off.....and they certainly did not climb down. The next ascent was made by Dick, Ted Stevens and myself in Sept 1962. Fairly long approach, good rock [I think], and a fun climb. Wow, that was over 50 years ago.
A year or so later, Dick took a BCMC trip there. With typical Culbert humour, he put a couple of hard sun-dried cow patties in his pack, and then placed them on the summit, which was surprisingly large and quite flat--to the amazement/consternation of his partners! Definitely a WTF moment.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Hamie, that photo of you leading is so cool!
And the cow patties?! Lol
Pretty amazing these old stories are, thanks for sharing guys. Solid gold.
So Bruce, what you are saying on the chossometer southern caribou/lillooet limestone chart is that the best stuff would likely be used for bathroom tiles if it was found anywhere in Europe besides the UK?
At least it looks really cool:-)
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MH2
climber
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Mutch appreciated, hamie.
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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oh yeah it looks cool no doubt! Thats why the smart ones stick to ice fishing and bottles of rye!
Oh I'm just too modern thats all. You know, not that psyched on Angels crest mid pineapple or working the quarry. Or at least the right sort of quarry. I used to go up to the Rockies all the time but I usually waited until it was all glued together with the white stuff.
Hamie, that last pic of chimney rock reminded me a bit of the true summit of Black Tusk. You guys ever do that one, or the Table?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Bruce: I never did the outer peak of Black Tusk, or the Table. Of my generation of Squamish (to keep the thread on track) clibmers, Dick Culbert did them both, solo. Arnold Shives did the outer peak of the Black Tusk when he was 17, with Frank de Bruyn. Dan Tate (University Wall) climbed the Table.
Here's a photo of Arnold on top of the Tusk, taken by Frank, just a month before he was killed on Garibaldi.
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Now that is some good looking stone!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Yeah, way better than yellow limestone, but not nearly as good as the stuff in the Touch & Go Towers...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 11:18am PT
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Cool. I've heard the tusk is a little Chossy... ;)
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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it looks delightful!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 12:46pm PT
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Not much pro I take it? :)
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