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Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 7, 2013 - 12:27am PT
Rolf you might be interested in this crag on Meadow Lake Road. I think it's on reserve land though. Better bring Perry along if you head up there to bolt. He can deploy the peace pipe.

Meadow Lake Rd limestone
Meadow Lake Rd limestone
Credit: Oplopanax

This next one is just across the road from the other one.
If you drive this far, bring your MTB and ride the trails at Churn Cre...
If you drive this far, bring your MTB and ride the trails at Churn Creek too
Credit: Oplopanax

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 7, 2013 - 12:40am PT
You know, I 've heard a few stories and even visited a few of those chilcotin plateau limestone crags and never once did I get the idea any of them were worth a drive even if you lived in Soda Creek.

There's a good reason all those Reds Shred shed guys havn't produced the next Horne lake

Sorry to pop the bubble.... and maybe I'm wrong. I mean surely somewhere there's something worthy but I'd say you gotta be pretty hard up to go looking up there.

There's a reason they all got into dirt bikes
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Jan 7, 2013 - 01:11am PT
Squeeeeeek
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jan 7, 2013 - 02:31am PT
There was always a bit of a mystery attached to the FA of Chimney Rock in Marble Canyon. The 2nd ascent party of Culbert/Owens was unable to find any indication of how the first party had rapped off.....and they certainly did not climb down. The next ascent was made by Dick, Ted Stevens and myself in Sept 1962. Fairly long approach, good rock [I think], and a fun climb. Wow, that was over 50 years ago.

A year or so later, Dick took a BCMC trip there. With typical Culbert humour, he put a couple of hard sun-dried cow patties in his pack, and then placed them on the summit, which was surprisingly large and quite flat--to the amazement/consternation of his partners! Definitely a WTF moment.
Chimney Rock, Marble Canyon.
Chimney Rock, Marble Canyon.
Credit: hamie
Hamie leading on Chimney Rock, 1962.
Hamie leading on Chimney Rock, 1962.
Credit: D. Culbert
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 7, 2013 - 03:33am PT
Hamie, that photo of you leading is so cool!

And the cow patties?! Lol

Pretty amazing these old stories are, thanks for sharing guys. Solid gold.


So Bruce, what you are saying on the chossometer southern caribou/lillooet limestone chart is that the best stuff would likely be used for bathroom tiles if it was found anywhere in Europe besides the UK?

At least it looks really cool:-)
MH2

climber
Jan 7, 2013 - 12:05pm PT
Mutch appreciated, hamie.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 7, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
oh yeah it looks cool no doubt! Thats why the smart ones stick to ice fishing and bottles of rye!


Oh I'm just too modern thats all. You know, not that psyched on Angels crest mid pineapple or working the quarry. Or at least the right sort of quarry. I used to go up to the Rockies all the time but I usually waited until it was all glued together with the white stuff.

Hamie, that last pic of chimney rock reminded me a bit of the true summit of Black Tusk. You guys ever do that one, or the Table?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 7, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
Bruce: I never did the outer peak of Black Tusk, or the Table. Of my generation of Squamish (to keep the thread on track) clibmers, Dick Culbert did them both, solo. Arnold Shives did the outer peak of the Black Tusk when he was 17, with Frank de Bruyn. Dan Tate (University Wall) climbed the Table.

Here's a photo of Arnold on top of the Tusk, taken by Frank, just a month before he was killed on Garibaldi.
Arnold Shives on the outer peak of the Black Tusk, 1961. Photo by Fran...
Arnold Shives on the outer peak of the Black Tusk, 1961. Photo by Frank de Bruyn
Credit: Frank de Bruyn

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 7, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
Now that is some good looking stone!
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 7, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
Yeah, way better than yellow limestone, but not nearly as good as the stuff in the Touch & Go Towers...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
Cool. I've heard the tusk is a little Chossy... ;)
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Jan 7, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
it looks delightful!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
Not much pro I take it? :)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 7, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
So.



How often does the tusk see a winter ascent?? Hehehe
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 7, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
Mutch appreciated, hamie.

HAHAAHA.


GREAT pic of Shives on that "outer summit" - never heard it called that but it's the perfect name for that pile of vertical poo.

Protection? Yeah, if you carve out a rock bollard..........
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 04:32pm PT
Ill take granite cracks instead... Thanks ;)
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 7, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
My friends Len and Bill did the Tusk in March 1978, but I suspect it had been done in the winter before then.

I haven't heard of anyone doing the outer peak of the Tusk - the one that's just a few m north of the one that most go to, and a tad higher - since the 1960s. Nor have I heard of anyone doing the blocky peak further north, sometimes called the Bishop's Mitre.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 7, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
I did the main (not outer)peak of the Black Tusk in full winter conditions in 1959; no doubt it had been done earlier. I don't know of any winter ascents of the outer peak. The Bishop's Mitre has apparently been climbed but I don't remember details. There was (is?) a cairn on top.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 7, 2013 - 08:03pm PT
I did the Inner peak (not Outer) in full summer conditions about ten years after Tricouni. It might have been my first true alpine summit and I was totally terrified in anticipation as the thing pretty much looks like Cerro Torre from any angle. It was my first taste of pre epic anxiety as my brothers tortured me with tall tales of all the hazards and unlikely odds of survival. After a sleepless night and ritual vomiting of breakfast I committed to my fate and discovered that simply placing one foot after the other could eleviate the dreads at least enough to persevere past various excuses to scurry back to camp. Amazingly and with incredible relief the first pitches actually wound up looking no more alarming than a typical jungle gym and it was already crawling with a broad cross section of urban society as well as a few dogs.

In short order we were on the summit feeling pretty chuffed..... that is if it wasn't for that slightly higher mound of dung across a sickening vertiginous gap. Nobody else seemed to be paying any attention to this little technicality so we tried ignoring it too, careful to frame it out of the summit photos and never getting any closer than a few lobbed stones trying to knock down the distant cairn.

Any way, for some reason it always stuck in my mind, especially now after looking at Ticouni's picture
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 7, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
Anders doesn't roll with the times. Outer summit of the Tusk's been done 4 or 5 times at least in the last 10 years. Trip reports on the internet and everything.
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