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Messages 4801 - 4820 of total 9010 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 6, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
Aid route on the Apron? Now that's interesting.

I imagine someone aiding Banana Peel. The hook he's on pops and...

...and he lies there on the low-angle slab for a while, then stands up, ditches the aiders, and walks up to the top.

But Amphitheater? Have to go look that one up. (Although climbing it at this time of year would probably be more like amphibian theater.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 6, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
Whoo Hoo! Found it. In the Holy Word of Gordie Smaill, Book of Apron, Page 74, Paragraph 2:

Amphitheatre
first ascent: Tony Ellis and Glenn Woodsworth 1965
time: four hours
5.3 A2
Arrive on the Stage via Gringo a-go-go or Snake. Start off the left side and free to the overhangs above. Nail the leaning corner above to a hanging station on steep slabs. Work up and right to the final overhanging corner. Hammer up it to easy slabs above.
equipment: Knife blades up to one inch.

Can't believe I never tried it.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Feb 6, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
iirc Amphitheatre isn't much different from Gringo-a-Gogo, at least at the old aid crux.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Feb 7, 2013 - 01:15am PT
Amphitheatre and Gringo are entirely separate lines. They cross each other, but otherwise are completely different. Both are very old school. No power drill rap bolting on either route. No wussy cleaning either! :)
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:34am PT
No power drill rap bolting on either route. No wussy cleaning either

And no bolts on either route! Go for them, Ghost!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 10, 2013 - 01:58am PT
Lets get this thread back where it belongs.

This is the easy part
This is the easy part
Credit: Ghost
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 03:09am PT
Absolutely right Dave. Sorry for my slackness lately. I've been getting caught up in the void of the taco when I have much more important things I could be doing.


How about a little photo essay?

Kyle is very happy to clip the first bolt on "Over Fourty"




Toque was gone by the second bolt so you know he's serious.








Going for some powder courage





No RP this time!





Getting back on the horse





Ummm where is the next bolt?





Oh there it is. Way up there?!





Still not there yet?




Please let me clip this bolt!




Damn that was far!




That has to be at least a 16 foot runout.






Getting to the anchor isn't trivial either...









Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 11:18am PT
Morning bump.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 10, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
Guesses about the route pic at the top of this page?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
BK- yup!

Ghost it's vagina er I mean cobra crack ;)
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 10, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
Obviously too easy.

So, who is the climber?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
Hard to tell from the back. With the hair I'm guessing its Didier? Interestingly Wiki says he quit climbing after first ascent?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 10, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
Not Didier. And he did not make the first ascent. But yes, I did hear that he'd given up climbing -- I think he entered a monastery. Or some kind of religious withdrawal.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
No the movie first ascent which documented his attempts on cobra. After a bit of googling it looks like Nicolas Favresse?
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 10, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
Fred Sanford?

"Don't you know your guzintas, Fred? Two guzinta four, three guzinta six."

"Yeah, and five guzinta yo lip, Grady!"
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 10, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
It's Nico. A friend and I were up there on Boogie Till You Puke a few years ago (okay, Erik was on BTYP, I was providing a manly belay). We'd seen a rope hanging out from the cliff top, redirected through a sling to a tree, so it hung well out from Cobra Crack and didn't know what it was for.

Then three guys showed up. One jugged up the rope with a video camera, the other two roped up and one of them started climbing Cobra Crack. He didn't get it. He could do all the moves, placing pro on lead, but he couldn't link it all up. What was really impressive was that he didn't seem maxed out. No screaming, no thrashing, just amazingly smooth. The climb was a bit too hard for him, but not by much. When I found out later that it was 14-something I couldn't believe what I'd seen that day.

Nice guy, too. Real quiet and friendly.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
Nice Ghost. That sling is still there!! Gave me a few ideas, although I haven't had the opportunity to try them yet. That thing looks rediculous when you stand at the base of it! :)
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Feb 10, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
I stood at the base of CC last summer and realized that the people that can climb it are a different species from me.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Feb 10, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
When I found out later that it was 14-something I couldn't believe what I'd seen that day.

Yeah, pretty amazing. One day, back in the dark ages, we were toproping a bunch of hard routes around on the NE and N sides of Siwash Rock. Some kid, 15, as it turned out, came along and hiked up the regular (south, "Slippery Slab") route on the rock. Downclimbed the thing and stood around chatting. We tossed him a rope, and he waltzed up some of the hardest routes on the north sides that we'd been struggling with.

We tried to get him interested in going to Squamish with us that weekend, but he just wasn't interested. But talk about talent...
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 10, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
Jesus, Glenn, that must have been around 1962 :-D Who the sam hill was the 15 year old ? A great grampa now, eh? Hee hee hee...........


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