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Messages 4741 - 4760 of total 7222 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 6, 2013 - 11:23am PT
Harry: I know nothing about cars. But in the photo, left to right: Don WIlde, Fred Beckey, Pete Schoening. Phot by Fred.

Pete Schoening climbed extensively with Fred and others in the Cashmere Crags from 1948 to 1951; Dick Wilde did a few trips, too. The trio in the photo did one only climb together that I can track down: April Fools Tower on April 1, 1951. In other versions of this photo, there's plenty of snow nearby, so early spring seems about right. My best guess is that the photo is spring, 1951.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 11:52am PT
Thanks Glenn and all. There is nothing better than opening my favorite thread and finding another gold nugget of history!!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 6, 2013 - 11:58am PT
Health hazard 12d

Well not to quibble but actually it felt more like 13a
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 6, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
Well the way you did that sit down start in the cave below with the overhead dbl heel hooks Before dynoing to what is normally the starting foothold at the lip seemed much more difficult than the reg way I've seen it done. Once you held the swing I knew it was at least 12+ but was only guessing, my bad- I'll edit the photo & upgrade it later. Just trying to stick with the consensus of handout grades at the bluffs, sorry for the sandbaggerry.


Hey Tricouni, awesome tower tales here, did u guys ever make your way up any of the ones in marble canyon? I always wondered the history on those & if they have seen many ascents, I'm sure they are choss but still quite striking formations.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 6, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
Ryan: The big pinnacle in Marble Canyon, Chimney Rock, was climbed in 1957 by Hank Mather & Elfrida Pigou; this was probably the first route in Marble Canyon. It was done a few years later by Dick Culbert and (if memory serves) John Owen and once in a while since them. (It's got a summit, hence the attraction.) I never climbed it.

Dick and I did Schism Rock between Clinton and the Fraser in early 1964. I don't think it's had a repeat ascent, but Robin Barley has recently been developing various routes on the crags nearby. Rock is limestone, much as in Marble Canyon. Route is more or less up the centre edge between sun and shadow. Barley says the wall on the other side of the tower looks excellent. Rock here and in Marble Canyon is not choss, but it's not Squamish, either. Different rock, different styles.
Schism Rock, just above the Canoe Creek road.
Schism Rock, just above the Canoe Creek road.
Credit: Tricouni

browniephoto

climber
bc
Jan 6, 2013 - 12:48pm PT
relic, the photo is not a good example but i did in fact use the no hands dyno to where i am in the photo. thus making it a PMWU in the gumby grading system.. other wise known as a Pretty Mellow Warm-Up, Someone much wiser then myself once said "if there's nothing to hold onto put both hands on it", the trick to climbing overhanging slabs is to use that same technique with your feet (and sometimes even your nipples (that is, when things get really tricky)). This technically technical technique is quite a mid bender as it refutes the mathematical theory that nothing multiplied by something is still nothing; when, in fact, it is more nothing..


Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 6, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
Marble Canyon:


Grey = ok to barely adequate.

Orange = death and misery




Speaking of misery is it aweful out. Pissing rain and slippery ice everywhere. Mike you should be up on the hill.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 6, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
Yeah, the orange stuff is ungood. Very crumbly in places.

Does anybody know if the same holds in the Rockies: grey - good; orange - bad?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 6, 2013 - 01:24pm PT
Glenn - A little more complex then that IIRC. I remember Marble Canyon's colour-coordinated choss system but I don't remember that in the Rotties.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 6, 2013 - 01:24pm PT
Blue limestone = really good, gray-white= OK, yellow = sketch, red/brown = yer gonna die. Limestone quality system.

If it's black and in the Rockies it's probably shale and not limestone and hence probably a scree ledge. Sometimes the whole Rockies seem like a scree ledge though.
gf

climber
Jan 6, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
Orange =bad
Yes thats very true in parts of Canada, but not to be confused with tropical areas with much more active seeping processes-the organe stone, usually overhanging generally notes that some serious monkey business will be in order.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 6, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
Did the northeast face of Park Mountain in the Rockies. Black, small shale-scree, and steep. That was choss!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 6, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
The tiagha gorge in Morocco is almost all orange limestone and it is superb. Some stuff in the ghost that is orange / yellow is really good.

I think it depends where but Marble Canyon grey does not equal Taghia yellow by a long stretch.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
Bruce, ya I should be.. I'm sled mechanic today. shred tomorrow for sure.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Jan 6, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
Is there still going to be a get together at fishboys place this week?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 6, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
I like the steep orange stuff with monkey business. What's the limestone like at August Jack up by Ashcroft? Any of u guys ever take a peek? I know there was a thread awhile back with some interior limestone teasing going on....



Thanks for the reply Glenn, may have to wander up to chimney rock there & get some wood ticks one of these summers.

Edit- Oregon Jack, thanks.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 6, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
just a friendly reminder to get your PLEASE BOOT WHISTLER HELI SKIING OUT OF GARIBLADI PARK request into BC Parks before the cut off deadline of Jan 10 on Thursday.


At the same time you can also say PLEASE ALLOW SOME LIMITED NEW MOUNTAIN BIKING TRAILS



Currently, heliskiing will be allowed to continue and no new biking trails will be allowed UNLESS ENOUGH PEOPLE RAISE A STINK.




comment form here:



http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/planning/mgmtplns/garibaldi/garibaldi_mp_amend_comments.html


Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 6, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
Heli-skiing could be phased out over 3 - 5 years, allowing a reasonable transition. If the proposed Spearhead Range huts are built, they may in any case have the incidental effect of making heli-skiing in and near them less marketable.

There's ample opportunity for largely unrestricted mountain biking (and for that matter snowmobiling) outside the Park, which is to say in far more than half of the area accessible from the Squamish - Pemberton highway. Mountain biking is quite limited now in the Park, and any expansion would create major management challenges. Construction, maintenance, boundaries, etc. A can of worms best left unopened.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 6, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
Already done BK.

RyanD , check your inbox for a PM I sent you via your ST mail....
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 6, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
Heli-skiing could be phased out over 3 - 5 years,

Fact is, they've had thirty years to do this. They are not going anywhere unless it is demanded that they leave.

The biking thing I'm not sure about. I'm sure that proper trails could be built and managed but not with the current BC Parks crap funding. Sounds like a good partnership with the local rider groups though. I'm not involved enough for clear opinion on this, personally.
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