Squamish Photos and Stories

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 4721 - 4740 of total 7683 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 4, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
From learning about the 1940s and 1950s at Squamish, the Chief seems to have been the elephant in the woodpile. It hardly even got mentioned in the weekly paper, except for a very occasional scenery shot. Mountaineers and backcountry skiers passed by it en route to Garibaldi Park, and local people were active in the outdoors. But there doesn't seem to have been much thought of let alone action relating to climbing on it, although people did hike up it. There are some interesting loose ends and circumstantial evidence, which may always remain that.
MH2

climber
Jan 4, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
I spent considerable time in the Touch & Go Towers


!!!


Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jan 4, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
Maybe no one climbed it cuz there weren't many chimneys n offalwidths up it
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2013 - 12:03am PT
That shot is so ominous mh2!!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 5, 2013 - 12:09am PT
Glen - Is this the same Phyl Munday photo that you have? I think it made the rounds of the local alpine inteligentsia so I now have it via my mom and dad.

wadd summit from the nw peak.  Phyl Munday original
wadd summit from the nw peak. Phyl Munday original
Credit: Bruce Kay


Thats so interesting that you guys were all over the touch and goes before even thinking about the chief. you guys were so summit oriented eh? There really seemed to be a distinct cultural separation between the mountaineers and the "rock gymnasts" as G W Young and all the brits and earo's were going on about back then. How did Beckey fit in?
MH2

climber
Jan 5, 2013 - 12:25am PT
Check with Perry sometime. Once I pulled from my collection of cliche, "Back when dinosaurs walked the Earth..." and Perry said, "Dinosaurs do walk the Earth." He may have been referring to those Lost Worlds across the river.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 5, 2013 - 12:43am PT
I spent more than a few evenings at the Eatons Wall in the 1990s with other West Van/North Shore climbers who were too poor or otherwise unable to go to the Edge. I recall it being pretty crimpy. Tendinitis special.

There is an awesome offwidth between two of the concrete pillars that I once managed to get about 5 feet off the ground on before slowly oozing down and gobying up my thigh something fierce. Guy I believe went up and down it in his ginch.

The mall security was some 90 yr old guy with an electriccart and it was always a battle when climbing there to see which would stop us first - cold and overcrimped fingers or mall grandpa yelling "You damn kids get off my wall!"
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 5, 2013 - 03:27am PT
Glen - Is this the same Phyl Munday photo that you have? I think it made the rounds of the local alpine inteligentsia so I now have it via my mom and dad.

Bruce, your photo is the famous one the Mundays took from the NW summit looking at the main peak. I think at that point they must have known they were never going to get up it.

My photo is taken from Mt Munday, with the first really good view they had of Wadd and the Tiedeman peaks. It's in Culbert's guide, one of the fold-out glossy photos; that photo was reproduced from mine.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 5, 2013 - 03:31am PT
Tricouni do you know anything about this film footage?

Harry, fascinating that you guys looked at the house when it came on the market. It was indeed at 373 Tempe Crescent, as Tami noted. I believe but am not certain that the film footage is either in the Provincial Archives (Victoria) or with the Mundays' great-niece who lives in Washington.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 5, 2013 - 03:51am PT
Thats so interesting that you guys were all over the touch and goes before even thinking about the chief. you guys were so summit oriented eh? There really seemed to be a distinct cultural separation between the mountaineers and the "rock gymnasts" as G W Young and all the brits and earo's were going on about back then. How did Beckey fit in?

Bruce, yes we (me, Culbert, my brother Bob, our circle of friends) were summit-oriented: we liked things with tops. Hence the T>, the Acrophobes, Trestle Tower in Cheakamus Canyon, miscellaneous rotting (and not) towers in the interior of the province, the Moles, and so forth. The T> have tops to them, some of them not easy to reach.

MH2: lovely, moody photo of the Castle that you posted!

Bruce, in Vancouver in the early 1960s there wasn't really a gap between the "rock gymnasts" and the mountaineers, partly because rock climbers were few and far between (Les Macdonald, Joe Turley, possibly Dick Willmott, and (to some extent) Hank Mather). Everyone else hiked (not necessarily summit-oriented) or climbed summits, hard or easy according to their abilities and tastes. Ex-Brits like Ashlyn Armour-Brown and Hamish Mutch were both highly competent mountaineers and rock climbers, better on the rocks than most of the home-grown crowd.

Jim Baldwin went on a few BCMC trips and did a few things with Dick Culbert, but was mainly a rock climber. Ed Cooper was competent at both (and was to some extent part of the Beckey group). Fred, of course, did both. He was the mainstay of the early climbs at Leavenworth, starting in the late 1940s, in the Peshastins and Castle Rock. But even Fred and Pete Schoening were succeptible to "summit fever." How else to explain why hard-to-reach Tumwater Tower and Chumstick Snag were among the earliest acents in the Leavenworth area? Fred liked obscure, backwater pinnacles as much as anyone.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 5, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
Guy I believe went up and down it in his ginch.


Omigawd that is sooooooooooooooo Guy E.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jan 5, 2013 - 04:25pm PT
Tricouni,

Coincidentally, Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival's mailing address is 373 Tempe Crescent. Maybe they know about the film footage.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 6, 2013 - 12:36am PT
BK sighting.


Health hazard 12d
Health hazard 12d
Credit: RyanD
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 12:40am PT
12d? Heath hazard at penny lane?
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Jan 6, 2013 - 01:32am PT
12D!?!?
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jan 6, 2013 - 01:35am PT
Health Hazard 10a/14d R/X/yur gonna die
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jan 6, 2013 - 02:23am PT
Fred, of course, did both. He was the mainstay of the early climbs at Leavenworth, starting in the late 1940s, in the Peshastins and Castle Rock. But even Fred and Pete Schoening were succeptible to "summit fever." How else to explain why hard-to-reach Tumwater Tower and Chumstick Snag were among the earliest acents in the Leavenworth area? Fred liked obscure, backwater pinnacles as much as anyone.

Unidentified climber, Fred and Pete Schoening
Unidentified climber, Fred and Pete Schoening
Credit: unknown
I could not find a date associated with either pic. Any car experts out there?
Credit: Blackbird
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 6, 2013 - 02:34am PT
The car looks like very late forties into very early fifties. I'm not sure of the make and I am too buzzed to go look it up. The car looks new. It could be as early as '48.

Hey Anders did you ever talk to Claunch? If you need more help getting the old guy to talk to you, let me know. The best way might be to see him personally.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 6, 2013 - 04:07am PT
Brownie sighting.

Left Rib V6
Left Rib V6
Credit: RyanD
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jan 6, 2013 - 10:10am PT
Cleft Bib is V17. Brownie is doing it wrong.
Messages 4721 - 4740 of total 7683 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews