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Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jan 3, 2013 - 03:37am PT
Mighty Hiker, keeper of the bluffs. Mike and I got into a disagreement over the grade of Clean Corner, the hands corner to the left of Flying Circus. He claims it is of the 5.9 persuasion. I tried to correcto his ghastly overrating reverse sandbaggin. It's just a measly dang 5.7 right?

It twas a cold but nice day to hang with friends in the New Year today!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 3, 2013 - 03:40am PT
Brrrrrrrrrrrr, anyone want to go jugging tomorrow?


The corner is 5.7


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 03:52am PT
I was wrong. Not 5.9 but bourdon has it at 5.8? Jugging Ryan? ;) we need tools I would love to hit up diedre ;)
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jan 3, 2013 - 04:31am PT
Mike I love your salalcicles,great diversion to keep you busy while freezing your ass off.
Up until this point in my life I have only seen one group of climbers as psyched about climbing as you guys.One time it was Frog Butress,Queensland at the height of summer and the only other climbers I saw for two weeks were a couple of rabid foaming at the mouth over climbing type teenagers.Other time I lost my mind I was climbing on a really cold January day at Rattlesnake point in Ontario and who shows up but two more rabid teenagers.These days I like to be able to feel that my fingers are on my hands but kudos again to you guys. You must have found the elixir of eternal l'amour de l'escalade. I noticed someone bumped me, how do you do that?
Adrian MacNair

Boulder climber
Vancouver
Jan 3, 2013 - 11:50am PT
Rattlesnake Point. January. Yup, it gets desperate in Ontario.

I got a video bumping around somewhere of me bouldering in White Bluff in April and the only thing missing from the scene are icebergs, although the lake looks close enough.
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Jan 3, 2013 - 12:35pm PT
@Adrian: Pretty sure the first pic you posted a page back is Local Boys.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
Mmm winter climbing... Fingers so cold! ;) My nice warm bed is trapping me at the moment... ;)


Oh ya, bumping is done like this Harry...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
Bump
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 3, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
Isn't Corner Crack usually graded 5.7? That seems about right to me, although it's pretty short.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
I guess you didn't proof read the smoke bluffs section eh Anders? :)
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 3, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
Hey if you guys are hitting the crag today give me a shout. Blue skies and windless. gone tomorrow.

About squamish ice - there is nothing climbable here to speak of. Never bother with Squamish without an honest arctic airmass, something that has yet to come close to happening yet this winter.
You might find something climbable further north but I didn't see anything a couple of days ago.

Rock is where its at today!
Adrian MacNair

Boulder climber
Vancouver
Jan 3, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
You're right, it's Local Boys. Damn you're good. I've only been to Shannon Falls a half dozen times.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
Might go.. Dunno no plans yet. It's Sandra's day off, probably a good idea to see what she wants to do first.... ;)
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 3, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
That corner 5.9 ? HAHAHA!!!! Maybe it will be 5.11 in a few years !!!

Love the beautiful weather here on the south coast!!!

We used to climb all winter long. I hated the wet freezing cracks but my foaming-rabid bf had to get out or he'd go crackerdog. I have pix of us climbing at the bluffs in Feb in shirtsleeves during one of those glorious warm winter days.

And yeah, no ice without the Arctic Outflow........

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 3, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
OK then, Corner Crack is Squamish 5.7, Little Smoke Bluffs 5.9. Grade inflation isn't a problem only in the academic world. All going well, I'll live to climb 5.12.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
I said I was wrong. But Mark still has it at 5.8 and it is Certainly harder than laughing crack but easier than mosquito...

I guess it felt like 5.9 with cold digits and rusty skills ;p
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 3, 2013 - 03:04pm PT
Hey, Boogers & Flies felt like 5.9 the other day, too. Friction climbing is more challenging when it's freezing, and you can't feel your toes, your pinkies, or the rock.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
That's for certain. Cold climbing is sandbagged by it's very nature..
Adrian MacNair

Boulder climber
Vancouver
Jan 3, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
I always found the Grand Wall old routes tough and the Bluffs easy. Flying Circus, for instance, has to be the most cherry .10a in Squamish. But Apron Strings and the Split Pillar at .10b will spank the initiated. I'd say both those routes pose a tougher challenge than Crime of the Century.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
I'd say both those routes pose a tougher challenge than Crime of the Century.
I disagree. Could have something to do with finger size though...

They are both really tough for the grade though!!
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