Tami
Social climber
Canada
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That corner 5.9 ? HAHAHA!!!! Maybe it will be 5.11 in a few years !!!
Love the beautiful weather here on the south coast!!!
We used to climb all winter long. I hated the wet freezing cracks but my foaming-rabid bf had to get out or he'd go crackerdog. I have pix of us climbing at the bluffs in Feb in shirtsleeves during one of those glorious warm winter days.
And yeah, no ice without the Arctic Outflow........
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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OK then, Corner Crack is Squamish 5.7, Little Smoke Bluffs 5.9. Grade inflation isn't a problem only in the academic world. All going well, I'll live to climb 5.12.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
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I said I was wrong. But Mark still has it at 5.8 and it is Certainly harder than laughing crack but easier than mosquito...
I guess it felt like 5.9 with cold digits and rusty skills ;p
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Hey, Boogers & Flies felt like 5.9 the other day, too. Friction climbing is more challenging when it's freezing, and you can't feel your toes, your pinkies, or the rock.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
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That's for certain. Cold climbing is sandbagged by it's very nature..
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Adrian MacNair
Boulder climber
Vancouver
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I always found the Grand Wall old routes tough and the Bluffs easy. Flying Circus, for instance, has to be the most cherry .10a in Squamish. But Apron Strings and the Split Pillar at .10b will spank the initiated. I'd say both those routes pose a tougher challenge than Crime of the Century.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 02:29pm PT
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I'd say both those routes pose a tougher challenge than Crime of the Century.
I disagree. Could have something to do with finger size though...
They are both really tough for the grade though!!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Happy 2013 everybody!
For Chrismas I got a copy of "In the Shadow of the Chief and a 25 foot stick clip! Weeoo, we're not gonna die jugging back to our high point on Zorro's!!!
Ais and I just got back from a week long "camping" trip to the Chilcotins and back. It's the Wild West up there! What a trip!
No photos uploaded yet. Just this little throwback from 2012!
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longjimbo
climber
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great pics, ive gotta save up some money to get out to these places.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
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Cool Luke! Good to hear you guys had fun.
Ya man get up here this summer!
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Anders, friction climbing is famous for being easier when it's cold out.
It's *squeaky* !
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
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The shoes stick but the fingers freeze! ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Thank you for these pearls of priceless wisdom - I simply had no idea!
Had a very good interview with Tricouni this afternoon, learned many interesting things about the who/what/where/when/why/how of climbing at Squamish from 1961 - 68 or so.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
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Nice Anders. I look forward to hearing those tales.. How is your project going?
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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A dry freezing winter day climbing is still better than a rainy day indoors.
Back when you could drive to the base of the Bluffs, I would haul my buddy Ivan out in Sub zero weather to climb. After leading Kangaroo Corner on a freeezing winter day, I lowered off the top to see him sitting in his truck with the heater on and the belay rope sneaking out of top 2 inches of his window.
Ha Ha, i got the point.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Haha ^^^ I wonder at what point he took u off belay to run the rope thru the window??!
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Perfect time to bring up the Eaton's wall at Park Royal Mall. Eaton's doesn't exist any more but the granite stone wall endures at the south side.
5.11 frozen finger traversing was what happened under cover of the parkade. An early artificial climbing gym where when we had had enough, everyone ran for hot chocklit to wrap their fingers around.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
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Haha ^^^ I wonder at what point he took u off belay to run the rope thru the window??!
Maybe he jumped through the window! ;)
Jim, eatons eh? What about the climbing wall in the sport check at park royal that's covered in golf gear!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
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Only 300 to go, should we give Rolf the 5000th? ;)
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