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Messages 4681 - 4700 of total 8035 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Adrian MacNair

Boulder climber
Vancouver
Jan 3, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
I always found the Grand Wall old routes tough and the Bluffs easy. Flying Circus, for instance, has to be the most cherry .10a in Squamish. But Apron Strings and the Split Pillar at .10b will spank the initiated. I'd say both those routes pose a tougher challenge than Crime of the Century.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
I'd say both those routes pose a tougher challenge than Crime of the Century.
I disagree. Could have something to do with finger size though...

They are both really tough for the grade though!!
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Jan 3, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
Happy 2013 everybody!

For Chrismas I got a copy of "In the Shadow of the Chief and a 25 foot stick clip! Weeoo, we're not gonna die jugging back to our high point on Zorro's!!!

Ais and I just got back from a week long "camping" trip to the Chilcotins and back. It's the Wild West up there! What a trip!

No photos uploaded yet. Just this little throwback from 2012!

Rupert Davies bivied at the base of the white sickle
Rupert Davies bivied at the base of the white sickle
Credit: thekidcormier
longjimbo

climber
Jan 3, 2013 - 09:06pm PT
great pics, ive gotta save up some money to get out to these places.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
Cool Luke! Good to hear you guys had fun.

Ya man get up here this summer!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jan 3, 2013 - 10:59pm PT
Anders, friction climbing is famous for being easier when it's cold out.

It's *squeaky* !
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
The shoes stick but the fingers freeze! ;)
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 3, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
Thank you for these pearls of priceless wisdom - I simply had no idea!

Had a very good interview with Tricouni this afternoon, learned many interesting things about the who/what/where/when/why/how of climbing at Squamish from 1961 - 68 or so.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
Nice Anders. I look forward to hearing those tales.. How is your project going?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 4, 2013 - 12:05am PT
Festina lente!
Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Jan 4, 2013 - 12:19am PT
A dry freezing winter day climbing is still better than a rainy day indoors.

Back when you could drive to the base of the Bluffs, I would haul my buddy Ivan out in Sub zero weather to climb. After leading Kangaroo Corner on a freeezing winter day, I lowered off the top to see him sitting in his truck with the heater on and the belay rope sneaking out of top 2 inches of his window.
Ha Ha, i got the point.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 4, 2013 - 12:21am PT
Haha ^^^ I wonder at what point he took u off belay to run the rope thru the window??!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jan 4, 2013 - 12:40am PT
Perfect time to bring up the Eaton's wall at Park Royal Mall. Eaton's doesn't exist any more but the granite stone wall endures at the south side.

5.11 frozen finger traversing was what happened under cover of the parkade. An early artificial climbing gym where when we had had enough, everyone ran for hot chocklit to wrap their fingers around.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 01:14am PT

Haha ^^^ I wonder at what point he took u off belay to run the rope thru the window??!

Maybe he jumped through the window! ;)

Jim, eatons eh? What about the climbing wall in the sport check at park royal that's covered in golf gear!!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 01:20am PT
Only 300 to go, should we give Rolf the 5000th? ;)
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jan 4, 2013 - 01:20am PT
They never let anyone on that rig even when it was Coast Mountain Sports.

Really true !

Park Royal Mall had endless handcracks between precast concrete planks in the parkades as well as the ground level stone work. Exceptionally painful though...
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 4, 2013 - 01:28am PT
They never let anyone on that rig even when it was Coast Mountain Sports.

Really true !

Uh... Really False! They let me on it. And someone who was with me. Maybe one of my sons? Can't remember.

Automatic top belay rig was pretty freaky the first time I used it. Get to the top of the wall, and... and... and... Modern part of brain says it must be fine to just let go, but ancient remnant brain says NO!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jan 4, 2013 - 01:38am PT
Really true was about the mall but I'm happy someone got to climb that wall at CMS. They closed it pretty quickly after building it.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 01:45am PT
What a shame! It's pretty tall!!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 4, 2013 - 08:04am PT
one more thumbs up for the eatons wall. That thing is the gunsmoke traverse of a vancouver winter.

And the roof cracks! Too bad bouldering pads hadn't been invented then, although you'd really need quite a few. If I recall rightly, most of the column cracks were mostly just a little off size but there was one that was perfect hands up the columns, across the roof for fifteen feet, then you had to reverse it to get down safely.

We only got booted off occasionally when some pole up the butt west van bag would march straight to customer service to complain about the unseemly riff raff probably high on drugs and causing a public disturbance. It was a taste of what the Mundays were up against back in the thirties.
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