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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 28, 2013 - 12:54am PT
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But it is the Devil in it that makes it so attractive.
I can see two guys in the picture. Which one of them is the Devil?
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MH2
climber
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Aug 28, 2013 - 10:44am PT
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I wish i had stayed long enough to find out. I had just dropped Robert off at his van and was taking the pictures from down by the highway. It was evening and I had a perfectly good reason to get home though I can't remember what it was.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 29, 2013 - 02:24am PT
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Here's an easy one. Bonus points for the climber (because I'm not sure...)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 29, 2013 - 03:14am PT
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Mushroom.
Hamie :-)
Awesome shot!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 29, 2013 - 11:25am PT
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The bolt ladder on Mushroom! That things gotta be A4 now with all the rust...
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 29, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
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Yep, the bolt ladder on Mushroom. Seemed pointless to me then. Seems pointless to me now.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 29, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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Seemed pointless to me then. Seems pointless to me now.
Clipping my way up that ladder was far less enjoyable than nailing the crack below, that's for sure.
Yes, that was the way I first climbed Mushroom -- with a rack of angles and a hammer. Weird, but pretty normal at the time.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 29, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
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Yep, that's how I got up it, too. Times change, don't they?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 29, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
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I think my first time on Mushroom may have been with MH2 and if it was it was the climb that persuaded me to switch from Ballets to something less clunky.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 29, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
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Yep, that's how I got up it, too. Times change, don't they?
The very first time I climbed it my job was removing the pins my partner had banged in. When I reached the belay, he said "Don't look down, but a carload of people have stopped and are watching us." He gave me a bunch of slack and said "Let's give them something to remember."
So I let out a blood-curdling scream and leaped off.
I don't remember how much slack he'd given me -- probably not more than eight or ten feet -- but I'm sure it was enough to give the spectators a heart attack or two.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Aug 29, 2013 - 02:10pm PT
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Nice story, Ghost! I wouldn't have wanted to do that with just a bowline around the waist and a hip belay...
Mushroom was often the first multipitch aid climb that people did because it was easy and straightforward.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 29, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
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What's up top, or what was up top of that bolt ladder? Does it go right to the top?? I did mushroom last week & those old bolts sure look......old.
Edit- I did 1/2 of mushroom technically :-)
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 29, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
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According to my Jim Campbell guide there was a short aid corner above the upper fault, but the big deal is the opportunity to A2 nail the upper fault all the way left (Horizontally Prone) to where Transit of Venus is now.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Aug 29, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
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Possibly considering driving up your guys' way at the end of September. Typically, how's the weather for climbing at that time of year? I've never been to Squamish before.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 29, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Aug 29, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
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That's High Mtn Woody.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Aug 29, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
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briham89,
Sendtember can be good here, it can also suck. Last year was good until 2nd week of oct IIRC.
Right now it feels like Augtober so maybe September will be glorious.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 29, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
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That's High Mtn Woody.
Yup. We were at Squamish this spring with a friend who had never done any trad climbing, and I tried to think of the best first-ever crack pitch for him. He's a fairly accomplished sporto (leads in the mid-11s), but had never climbed on gear.
He really loved High Mountain Woody. Which, given the location and the quality of the climbing, is not much of a surprise.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 29, 2013 - 08:40pm PT
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High Mtn Woody - doesn't that have a hard start?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 29, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
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High Mtn Woody - doesn't that have a hard start?
Hard for Squamish 5.8 maybe. Probably about Index 5.5.
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