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Messages 4121 - 4140 of total 8031 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 25, 2012 - 09:02am PT
Mike 65 and sunny today just saying.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 02:31am PT
hmmm.. peak bagging? Ice Climbing?? not yet.... temporarily defecting to the states?? naw love pow too much....

Silver watch out I might show up on your doorstep and kidnap you to belay me with weather reports like that!!!



Cross posted from my Cali thread!

So on Thursday I had a couple of things to do in the morning but my afternoon was clear and I still really wanted to go climbing. I felt like my roadtrip just wasn't ready to end...

The boys finished up our latest gig and when we moved the stuff one of them had some personal business to go take care of so Kieran and I siezed the opportunity to get some pitches in!!

We ditched this view....





For this one... (The Chief)




The Squaw


On the way in from the parking lot we ran into "Micro Mark". I asked him WTF are you doing here dude???? I said you should be in the valley!!!!! He laughed and smiled and says I love this sh!t man!!! He asks us where we are going and I said penny lane! He says cool i'm going there too! He split off at one point to go set up a top rope from above.

Up Up and Away 5.9 was free and I love this rig so I racked up quickly.. (member this one Tami?)


Just as I was about to set off, who should toss a rope over but Mark.. he was working the 13a prow “To Be Exposed” next to up up and away.. This Sonnie Trotter FA looked desperately thin on gear but mark had one decent piece in and a couple average ones… I chit chatted with Mark a bit and ate the crack for breakfast. I instantly appreciated Squamish granite that much more. Every lock was solid and every foot was bomber and grainy and felt like it would never slip out… The temperatures were amazing! 6 to 7 degrees (celcius) max and the friction was all-time…

I LOVE SQUAMISH GRANITE!!!!!!!

I flowed through the crux without a single hesitation and placed less gear than I ever have on that upper section. Kieran seconded it with ease and while he was taking it down I got to watch Mark try the crux on TBE. He flowed through the moves and seemingly was pasting his feet on nothing with no hands until he slowly barn doored off.

We left Mark to his project and headed over to Partners in Crime 11a


Kieran tried it a couple times but the opening moves were wet so he didn’t want to commit. We decided to try Climb and Punishment 10d instead.
He loved this one but got shut down at the crux, and whipped on the pin.



While he was hanging I had time for a few photos..



The trees were sporting their fall colours



It took Kieran quite a while to get it done and it was pretty much dark by the time I took it down. I pretty much got it clean besides having to fight a couple cams that Kieran shoved in there….

We packed up and headed back to the car so we could go pick Mark up. We went over to his place and ran into him as he was headed towards the Cliffside. I suggested that we go to the brew pub because the food was at least passable there vs Cliffside…

Mark must know a few people at the pub because we got the hugest plate of nachos I have ever personally witnessed at the brew pub…. It is amazing to converse with someone who has just as much stoke as you do. I felt as if we had a lot in common even if he is playing at an infinitely higher level…

He told us about his ascent of Genus Loci and how it was probably one of the coolest things he had done all summer.. I asked him if he liked it so much that he would go lead it again, but he said he would rather second it for a friend if they were trying to get the redpoint… ;)

I took this cheesy photo…



Kieran and I both had fun hanging out with Mark. Next morning it was back to work... ;)





What was your first time back on squamish granite after valley experience like????
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 10:49am PT
Shameless bump.. See question above!
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Nov 2, 2012 - 11:54am PT
Nice work capturing the fall colors!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 11:57am PT
Thanks Perry. It was awesome to have you join us for dinner the other night... Thanks for that!!!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 2, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
The Cliffside was always a bit rougher, though not quite up to the 'standards' of the downtown bars in Squamish. Still, the sign on the door saying "no knives", and the list of banned people, were somewhat reassuring. Plus you could also threaten your life with your basic triple-bypass meal.
MH2

climber
Nov 2, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
I've always felt I climbed better after a road trip, no matter where. Maybe it relaxes you? Gets you out of some mental ruts?



Thinking about sun, now. Those who do not learn from history...


an early PNW TR
The Journals of Lewis and Clark, Bernard DeVoto, 1953
(all entries and some inventive spelling by Lewis)



November 5th Tuesday 1805

"Rained all the after part of last night, rain continues this morning"


November 6th Wednesday 1805

"A cool wet raney morning"


November 7th Thursday 1805

"A cloudy foggey morning Some rain"


November 8th Friday 1805

A cloudy morning Some rain"


November 9th Saturday 1805

"rained hard all the fore part of the day"
"The Water of the river being too salt to use we are obliged to make use of rain water. Some of the party not accustomed to Salt water has made too free a use of it on them it acts as a pergitive"


November 10th Sunday 1805

"rained verry hard the greater part of the night & continues this morning"


November 11th Monday 1805

"A hard rain all the last night"
"rained all day"


November 12th Tuesday 1805

"rained with great violence"


November 13th Wednesday 1805

"The rain continue all day. nothing to eate but pounded fish which we keep as a reserve and use in Situations of this kind."


November 14th Thursday 1805

"rained all the last night without intermition, and this morning"
"The rain &c. which has continued without a longer intermition than 2 hours at a time for ten days past has distroyed the robes and rotted nearly one half of the few clothes the party has"


November 15th Friday 1805

"Rained all the last night"
"The rainey weather continued without a longer intermition than 2 hours at a time, from the 5th in the morng. untill the sixteenth is 11 days rain, and the most disagreeable time I have experenced confined on a tempiest coast wet"



Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 2, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
haha! I do remember Up, up & away. How very cool that the prow next to it was freeclimbed. Never even thought of that one BITD :-D

As fer yer question - I went to the Valley fer the first time the fall of 1978. Climbed lots ! Came home and was able to toprope a climb that had eluded me all summer long. Was really proud of myself too. Clean Crack to the old stump.

Lovely pix of Valleycliff.

Funny what Anders says of the bars. I always thought the Cliffside was pretty suburban where the CHieftain, downtown, was more red-terrycloth round-table covers and swill for beer. The other place was the biker bar and we never went there. This was when the brew pub was scrub grass and small alder trees.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 2, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
What was your first time back on squamish granite after valley experience like????

It was... Interesting.

Valley in October, back to Van, kinda rainy, but caught a good day in early November and headed up to Squamish. Gearing up in the Apron parking lot, we hear "Hi. What are you up to?" Turn around and see Jim Sinclair.

"Something on the Apron. Maybe Sparrow."

"Mind if I join you?"

Well, no, we didn't mind. And soon we were climbing. We offered Jim the lead of the first real pitch, the rising rightward traverse, but he said he was happy just to tie in in the middle and enjoy the ride. I wondered to myself if he was no longer climbing well, but watching him on that pitch was an eye-opener. He just walked. Standing upright, not reaching out sideways to touch the rock, not apparently even in climbing mode. Sure, it's only 5.8, but he made it look like it was the flat part of the approach trail.

So, obviously, we offered him the next lead, but he said he was still happy in the middle, so I set off. I was fairly comfortable on the Apron at that point, and after the bulge, continued straight up on the old Slim Pickins line rather than moving left, then up, then back right on Sparrow.

So from the horizontal crack at the bulge it's what... about 25 feet or so of 10b slab with no pro to where the climbing eases? However far, I'd done it often enough not to be worried and sailed onward, cruising up on increasingly damp rock until I stepped in a slime patch just before the last real move.

Outta there! One second, and 40 or 50 feet later I said "Hi Jim. You sure you don't want a go?"

No, he was still happy in the middle. So I re-did it, but took the easy way.

Not sure that having been in Yosemite until a few days before made any difference, but you did ask.


Edit (having seen Tami's note above): Yes, the pub in Valleycliff (the Cliffside) was totally suburban. The Chieftan and the Squamish Hotel were total slum taverns, which is why we probably hung out in them. Well, that and because the Cliffside didn't exist back then.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
Hahaha... MH2... Times haven't changed much eh?

Tami was that your fa? Km lists you first....

Ghost thanks for that excellent tale!! Slim pickins has been over bolted by over the rainbow correct??? Didn't KM out OTR up? Hmmm not such a purist after all it seems...
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 2, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
Yes.

Unsure about Slim Pickens; it was, along with Grim Reaper and the fourth pitch of White Lightning, an Apron testpiece of nerves. Sorry to hear that it might have been ditched in favour of bolts.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Nov 2, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
The Cliffside was always a bit rougher, though not quite up to the 'standards' of the downtown bars in Squamish. Still, the sign on the door saying "no knives", and the list of banned people, were somewhat reassuring. Plus you could also threaten your life with your basic triple-bypass meal.


Mighty appears to be suffering from some form of recall dyslexia.

The Chieftain was the loggers bar (some loggers were Indians too) and mainly a George Jones, Conway Twitty outfit.

The Squamish (later to became the Ocean Port) was the bikers bar, (which meant a bunch of loggers and Indians drank there too), was much more a Bob Seeger joint and one of the last bastions of "Folk Dancing".

You could end up in a physical altercation at either bar depending on what you were or weren't wearing, who you did or didn't drink with, who you logged for, poor etiquette at the pool table or arguing with an Indian.

The Cliffside on the other hand was Squamish's first neighborhood pub and a much more genteel establishment catering to the appetites of Valleycliffe locals, loggers, bikers and climbers. You could end up in a fight there too but it would be over loud lycra, hangdogging, rap bolting, excessive posing, hitting on someone's girlfriend or wife or arguing with a logger (who could be an Indian).

Leastways, that's my recollection.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 2, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
In the early 1960s we tended to frequent the Chieftan. The regulars weren't used to climbers back then: didn't know what to make of them, so pretty much left us alone.

The Chieftan was nowhere near as rough as some of the pubs in Prince Rupert or even Terrace in those days. Even the cops were reluctant to go into some of them.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 2, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
The Chieftan was nowhere near as rough as some of the pubs in Prince Rupert or even Terrace in those days. Even the cops were reluctant to go into some of them.

What he said. The Chieftain and the Squish Hotel were seedy taverns, and yes, you could get into a fight if you didn't mind your manners. But some of the places up in the north and in the central interior were a far more serious adventure. I don't know much about PR or Terrace, but Williams Lake fit the "even the cops were reluctant" bill.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 2, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
The beer parlour in Bralorne was more epic then in Squamish ; the drunkest I ever saw a human being who was still standing and drinking was some joint in Pr Rupert and the bar I did go into and wish I hadn't would have to be a toss up between The Drake or The American - both in Van. Both long gone.

But I never set foot in Funky Winkerbeans.

Oy.

LOVE what Perry wrote about the Squamish Hotel, the Chieftain ( I always felt odd going in the Ladies & Escorts entrance while all the guys filed in the Men's entrance...........they both led to the same place: the beer parlour ! ) . Great words Perry.

gf

climber
Nov 2, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
Chief -did you witness the ascent of the Neon Chieftan sign by Daryl on a 5.00 bet?
Mighty was likely inside enjoying the genteel company.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 2, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
I didn't go much to the Chieftain or the Squamish Hotel - Daryl correctly diagnosed me as a lightweight, when it came to drinking, anyway. They seemed typical seedy bars for the 1970s, not much different from those in downtown Vancouver. They might have had signs about knives and banned lists - can't remember. But I very definitely remember the Cliffside, probably in the early 1980s, having such signs.

As others have observed, the bars up north are in an entirely different category. I visited a few, when working geology.

Then there was the original Mad Trapper, in Golden, before it moved and went all yuppie.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Nov 2, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
gf

I was witness to many of Darly's harebrained antic but not that one.

PB
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 2, 2012 - 06:33pm PT
The beer parlour in Bralorne was more epic then in Squamish ; the drunkest I ever saw a human being who was still standing and drinking was some joint in Pr Rupert and the bar I did go into and wish I hadn't would have to be a toss up between The Drake or The American - both in Van. Both long gone.

Might have been me you saw in Rupert...

For some years, my PhD thesis adviser and I used to hit every pub in Rupert on a single night, at least one beer in each. They kept burning down at about the same rate as new ones opened. But eventually there were so many new ones we couldn't keep pace, and many of the cool, old ones had gone and it the the crawl just wasn't the same.

Ah, the Drake and the American. Don't forget the New Fountain and the Stanley. Both long gone. Along with the Cecil (I'm still banned for life from there).

Ghost: the Ranch Hotel in Williams Lake was the first pub I (illegally) had a beer in. Pretty calm that night, but it's was WILD some other times I visited.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 2, 2012 - 06:53pm PT
Yup, the Drake was something special. I remember an argument one night at a table near the one I was sitting at. Didn't get out of hand, although it sounded pretty nasty. Finally one guy got up and headed for the door. Which, as you may recall, was down a wide four- or five-step set of stairs. A young woman started up it as he started down. He punched her square in the face as he passed, not even slowing down. And then he was gone, and she got up, apparently not seriously injured. Nor very surprised. It was that kind of place.

About fifteen minutes later he came back in, carrying a long narrow cardoard box, and headed straight to the table where he'd had the argument. I figured we were all about to witness a shooting, but he just sat down and pulled a curling broom out of the box and showed it to someone as if nothing unusual had happened.

Just another night at the Drake.

Unless it was the Yale. Not much difference as I recall.
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