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Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 13, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
(it's a 5.4)


Turns out that was a typo. Actually it's rated 5.14 and he renamed it the golden hinde quarter.

Hey Bruce, tell em about the frenchies you ran into yesterday....


Mike stopped by to drop off my smelly shoes while exiting stage right for sunny california which reminded me of just a few hours previous running into a bunch of young quebecois down at one of the Stawamus river squats. The first monsoons of the winter were just starting the opening act and their little encampment was not quite prepared and neither were they. I knocked on the tent and they initially feigned limited english but warmed up a bit when it became obvious i was a friendly, only there to warn them of the torches and pitch forks likely to show up the next day. We stood there for a while, them looking like wet puppies abandoned in the forest amidst thier sodden droopy tents, old bags of damp Wonder Bread, and scattered bongs, me trying to stress upon them thier civic duty to actually clean all their crap up as they leave. But no - they say with happy grins that this is just a little sprinkle, It hardly rains here at all and they intend to continue their blissful utopian existence in the forest for another month or so while sending perfect crisp granite under the blue skies of autumn.

Their grins turned a little puzzled as i roared with laughter for a couple of minutes but that turned to horror as i finally managed to communicate that in fact this was no momentary pause in play and the likely hood of ever seeing dry stone again could only be enhanced with every kilometer they gain in a southbound direction. How far they asked to which I replied "California".

With this their smiles returned, no doubt with images of golden granite, cute girls and fresh bong loads amidst the happy boulders. They assured me the place would be spotless when they left so i left them to their wet Wonder Bread, went and repeated the conversation with a bunch of Irish just down stream.

Today an eclectic and varied bunch put a dent in the left behind detritus along the river. The stream keepers uncluttered various stream obstructions, the paddlers went on about the rising water and the climbers scrounged for booty. The CASBC leadership took one look at the 30 foot Teepee and decided to nail up an eviction notice and hope it all disappears by next week, either by hand or rising water. If anyone needs a whole pile of tarps and crappy Canadian tire tents then get on down there before we get that 150 mills thats forecast for tomorrow!

anybody need a set of golf clubs or guitar amp?  They had quite the sc...
anybody need a set of golf clubs or guitar amp? They had quite the scene going on down there!
Credit: Bruce Kay



gf

climber
Oct 13, 2012 - 09:04pm PT
Nice one bruce on a bunch of counts-wish i was there
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 13, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
Thanks for the Samaritan work Bruce, that is awesome! I cannot believe there was a teepee there still, I wonder if it's been there since I was last down there 2 summers ago or if it gets erected every year?? Regardless, good riddance.

For a minute I thought you were gonna go to Cali with the frenchies. For a minute I also thought you were talking about the bongs u guys used for rope climbing protection BITD. Not the ones us boulderers use for climbing protection nowadays.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Oct 13, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
Jim, it's possible I stole your route Gator wresting as I went there with Dick Parker and looked up to see this amazing line with some bolts. I headed on up and at about half height I realized that the bolts were not all in yet and scared myself ####less running it out to the top with no pro and some hard climbing.I'm guessing that was late '89 or early 1990.
gf

climber
Oct 14, 2012 - 02:15am PT
harry you shameless route thief!
Hey let me know if you want to get some bindings on those planks i've got sitting in my basement with your name on them -winter is coming and we should tee this up
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 14, 2012 - 09:53am PT
Good work! A Squamish FaceLift, of sorts.
Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 14, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
The owner of the Teepee had a bear visit him 4 nights ago.

I have some very clean friends just upstream from him, and they had a bear visit them last night while watching a movie. They never saw you guys, but did have a visit from some guy from a department of something the day before.

Good work anyway Bruce et al.....
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 14, 2012 - 06:41pm PT
Mighty Hiker

Ding ding ding you Need to do a Facelift in Squamish. You have huge support and a model in place. Set it in motion.

Come on Ken/MH/ et all you guys are so close to doing this. It's no different than Yosemite.

This place has some brilliant people why can't someone help Ken with a grant for a full scale 4 stop Facelift at say Yosemite, Smith, Squamish, and Teton/Yellowstone. Pick any 4 that need it immediately.

We are always hearing about the park service not doing enough. It's time to realize it depends on us to do what they can not if you want the trash picked up or those items that are term "Deemed Unscenic" to be dealt with its going to be Facelift and it's volunteers doing the work.

We need to do this people, the parks and the employees of the parks need our help they can't do it all.

I for one would volunteer at least 5 days at any of the 4 locations.

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 14, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
I've retired from organizing such things, or at least I thought I had, after many years of working on climbing conservation and access matters. Others took over responsibility for the Access Society a few years ago, and after nearly 20 years of volunteering, it was time for a change, for it and me. I hoped to stay out of the way (unless asked), quietly work on a Squamish climbing history, put more time into family things and actually climbing, and at most occasionally show my mug at volunteer events and festivals, and moonlight harmlessly at the Yosemite FaceLift. At least, I thought that was the plan - were it not for a certain wretched gondola proposal. (Still undecided.)

It sounds like the Access Society provided the needed leadership to address the current situation, and that things are in hand. No need for my involvement, although maybe they'd let me hold a garbage bag or something. Perhaps a larger event, a Squamish FaceLift, would make sense - focusing on all the parks and natural lands at Squamish, including the Chief. That'd take some organizing, but might have considerable benefits for both the town and climbers. Hopefully the powers that be will consider the idea.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
Ahhh.... Reading my favourite thread, while eating Pizza deck pizza in sunny California..... How can I complain?? Nice write up Bruce! Even better than it was in person!!

The valley is everything I ever expected and more!!! See the going to Cali thread for the play by play...

Squamish Facelift sounds like an awesome idea! I'm sure it would be fun!
Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 14, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
Rad 11a at Fern Hill

Credit: Fish Boy


Burp the Worm 11c, Fern Hill

Credit: Fish Boy


Wishing I had a big cam on Skullduggary 10a

Credit: Fish Boy


Getting confused about the rope on an 11b in the Bluffs

Credit: Fish Boy

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 14, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
Uh oh. Now fish boy is posting sport climbing photos. Whats next?! Awesome photos btw! Those 2 climbs at fern are great! That 11b- too pink to think? I think. Is weird the way the rope runs. Skullduggery is good too & not as bad as it looks, unlike the beaver just above. Nice ones.

Edit- the 11a is called good times, which it is
Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 14, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
You'll notice I was sport climbing in TC Pros, does that make me trad still?

Yeah, that's the 11b....
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 14, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
the general idea is a likely return to the camp sites next saturday to deactivate the teepee site.

An observation made by most was that most of the camp sites are / were pretty well maintained. They were not the usual vagrant rubbish heaps. One gets the sense that a reasonable effort was made to avoid trashing the place over all and i like to think that indicates a mostly responsibly minded clientele, even if they did drop the ball in the last minute of play. That was somewhat gratifying as it seems to distinguish us / them from some other "recreationalists" that plague the valley.

All the same I doubt the valley cliffe residents want to give them a free pass just because they avoided burning the place down and i think we should all be a bit concerned about the human waste factor. It seems like the whole issue hinges on avoiding a lousy 10 bucks a night and the fact that no one is booting them out all summer. Does anyone know if the Parks campground is at capacity ?

It is rumored that this issue will be kicked around at the next Parks & Rec Master Plan meeting, Oct 24 6:30 PM at the Seniors Centre. Anybody with some good ideas ought to show up.

So mike .... did you and alex bang off Astroman and the Rostrum today?
Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 16, 2012 - 11:42am PT
http://www.snagfilms.com/films/title/beyond_gravity

Great film of stuff in Canada...ice, aid on the Chief etc....free to watch online!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 17, 2012 - 01:09am PT
Fishboy, thanks for posting that movie. I've never seen it but always wanted to, the Squamish footage is awesome & the Croft footage is wild, they pretty much get him in real time climbing the entire Cardinal pinnacle he is moving so fast. Horne lake footage was cool too.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Oct 17, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
Mooser leading Exasperator. What a fun crack!
Mooser leading Exasperator. What a fun crack!
Credit: mooser
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
Bruce- no, no not yet... Hopefully me and Derek will get it done. Check out the Cali thread for updates.

Thanks for the pics nic!!! Sweet!

Wish ya'll were here!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
Wow!! Dead around here... ;) thanks to Chris Mac for the shout out in the most recent supertopo newsletter!!!! We finally made the big time!!

This has been posted on the Cali thread but it's super topical so why not here too??

Me and Ed Cooper!



Also our own Paul Brennan after his ascent of Mescalito!!! Congrats Paul!!!



Paul has big things planned for after the storm! Too bad Tom is done for the season!!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 23, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
Mike you are so hilariously tall. Cracks me up.
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