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Silver

Ice climber
Oct 14, 2012 - 09:41pm PT
Mighty Hiker

Ding ding ding you Need to do a Facelift in Squamish. You have huge support and a model in place. Set it in motion.

Come on Ken/MH/ et all you guys are so close to doing this. It's no different than Yosemite.

This place has some brilliant people why can't someone help Ken with a grant for a full scale 4 stop Facelift at say Yosemite, Smith, Squamish, and Teton/Yellowstone. Pick any 4 that need it immediately.

We are always hearing about the park service not doing enough. It's time to realize it depends on us to do what they can not if you want the trash picked up or those items that are term "Deemed Unscenic" to be dealt with its going to be Facelift and it's volunteers doing the work.

We need to do this people, the parks and the employees of the parks need our help they can't do it all.

I for one would volunteer at least 5 days at any of the 4 locations.

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 14, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
I've retired from organizing such things, or at least I thought I had, after many years of working on climbing conservation and access matters. Others took over responsibility for the Access Society a few years ago, and after nearly 20 years of volunteering, it was time for a change, for it and me. I hoped to stay out of the way (unless asked), quietly work on a Squamish climbing history, put more time into family things and actually climbing, and at most occasionally show my mug at volunteer events and festivals, and moonlight harmlessly at the Yosemite FaceLift. At least, I thought that was the plan - were it not for a certain wretched gondola proposal. (Still undecided.)

It sounds like the Access Society provided the needed leadership to address the current situation, and that things are in hand. No need for my involvement, although maybe they'd let me hold a garbage bag or something. Perhaps a larger event, a Squamish FaceLift, would make sense - focusing on all the parks and natural lands at Squamish, including the Chief. That'd take some organizing, but might have considerable benefits for both the town and climbers. Hopefully the powers that be will consider the idea.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
Ahhh.... Reading my favourite thread, while eating Pizza deck pizza in sunny California..... How can I complain?? Nice write up Bruce! Even better than it was in person!!

The valley is everything I ever expected and more!!! See the going to Cali thread for the play by play...

Squamish Facelift sounds like an awesome idea! I'm sure it would be fun!
Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 14, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
Rad 11a at Fern Hill

Credit: Fish Boy


Burp the Worm 11c, Fern Hill

Credit: Fish Boy


Wishing I had a big cam on Skullduggary 10a

Credit: Fish Boy


Getting confused about the rope on an 11b in the Bluffs

Credit: Fish Boy

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 14, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
Uh oh. Now fish boy is posting sport climbing photos. Whats next?! Awesome photos btw! Those 2 climbs at fern are great! That 11b- too pink to think? I think. Is weird the way the rope runs. Skullduggery is good too & not as bad as it looks, unlike the beaver just above. Nice ones.

Edit- the 11a is called good times, which it is
Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 14, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
You'll notice I was sport climbing in TC Pros, does that make me trad still?

Yeah, that's the 11b....
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 14, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
the general idea is a likely return to the camp sites next saturday to deactivate the teepee site.

An observation made by most was that most of the camp sites are / were pretty well maintained. They were not the usual vagrant rubbish heaps. One gets the sense that a reasonable effort was made to avoid trashing the place over all and i like to think that indicates a mostly responsibly minded clientele, even if they did drop the ball in the last minute of play. That was somewhat gratifying as it seems to distinguish us / them from some other "recreationalists" that plague the valley.

All the same I doubt the valley cliffe residents want to give them a free pass just because they avoided burning the place down and i think we should all be a bit concerned about the human waste factor. It seems like the whole issue hinges on avoiding a lousy 10 bucks a night and the fact that no one is booting them out all summer. Does anyone know if the Parks campground is at capacity ?

It is rumored that this issue will be kicked around at the next Parks & Rec Master Plan meeting, Oct 24 6:30 PM at the Seniors Centre. Anybody with some good ideas ought to show up.

So mike .... did you and alex bang off Astroman and the Rostrum today?
Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 16, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
http://www.snagfilms.com/films/title/beyond_gravity

Great film of stuff in Canada...ice, aid on the Chief etc....free to watch online!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 17, 2012 - 04:09am PT
Fishboy, thanks for posting that movie. I've never seen it but always wanted to, the Squamish footage is awesome & the Croft footage is wild, they pretty much get him in real time climbing the entire Cardinal pinnacle he is moving so fast. Horne lake footage was cool too.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Oct 17, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
Mooser leading Exasperator. What a fun crack!
Mooser leading Exasperator. What a fun crack!
Credit: mooser
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2012 - 01:18am PT
Bruce- no, no not yet... Hopefully me and Derek will get it done. Check out the Cali thread for updates.

Thanks for the pics nic!!! Sweet!

Wish ya'll were here!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
Wow!! Dead around here... ;) thanks to Chris Mac for the shout out in the most recent supertopo newsletter!!!! We finally made the big time!!

This has been posted on the Cali thread but it's super topical so why not here too??

Me and Ed Cooper!



Also our own Paul Brennan after his ascent of Mescalito!!! Congrats Paul!!!



Paul has big things planned for after the storm! Too bad Tom is done for the season!!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 24, 2012 - 01:14am PT
Mike you are so hilariously tall. Cracks me up.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 24, 2012 - 01:25am PT
Mike is bigger than he thinks he is. Now that is funny.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 24, 2012 - 01:29am PT
Maybe Tami was standing in a hole?
Tee hee hee. ;-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 02:22am PT
They don't call me big mike for nothing!!! ;)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2012 - 12:34am PT
Holy is it raining around here or what ??? I think I hear crickets.... ;)

Me and Relic are back in Canuck land!! Now if only we could do something about this weather!!!!
MH2

climber
Oct 25, 2012 - 08:53am PT
You'll think of something sooner or later.


Silver

Ice climber
Oct 25, 2012 - 09:02am PT
Mike 65 and sunny today just saying.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2012 - 02:31am PT
hmmm.. peak bagging? Ice Climbing?? not yet.... temporarily defecting to the states?? naw love pow too much....

Silver watch out I might show up on your doorstep and kidnap you to belay me with weather reports like that!!!



Cross posted from my Cali thread!

So on Thursday I had a couple of things to do in the morning but my afternoon was clear and I still really wanted to go climbing. I felt like my roadtrip just wasn't ready to end...

The boys finished up our latest gig and when we moved the stuff one of them had some personal business to go take care of so Kieran and I siezed the opportunity to get some pitches in!!

We ditched this view....





For this one... (The Chief)




The Squaw


On the way in from the parking lot we ran into "Micro Mark". I asked him WTF are you doing here dude???? I said you should be in the valley!!!!! He laughed and smiled and says I love this sh!t man!!! He asks us where we are going and I said penny lane! He says cool i'm going there too! He split off at one point to go set up a top rope from above.

Up Up and Away 5.9 was free and I love this rig so I racked up quickly.. (member this one Tami?)


Just as I was about to set off, who should toss a rope over but Mark.. he was working the 13a prow “To Be Exposed” next to up up and away.. This Sonnie Trotter FA looked desperately thin on gear but mark had one decent piece in and a couple average ones… I chit chatted with Mark a bit and ate the crack for breakfast. I instantly appreciated Squamish granite that much more. Every lock was solid and every foot was bomber and grainy and felt like it would never slip out… The temperatures were amazing! 6 to 7 degrees (celcius) max and the friction was all-time…

I LOVE SQUAMISH GRANITE!!!!!!!

I flowed through the crux without a single hesitation and placed less gear than I ever have on that upper section. Kieran seconded it with ease and while he was taking it down I got to watch Mark try the crux on TBE. He flowed through the moves and seemingly was pasting his feet on nothing with no hands until he slowly barn doored off.

We left Mark to his project and headed over to Partners in Crime 11a


Kieran tried it a couple times but the opening moves were wet so he didn’t want to commit. We decided to try Climb and Punishment 10d instead.
He loved this one but got shut down at the crux, and whipped on the pin.



While he was hanging I had time for a few photos..



The trees were sporting their fall colours



It took Kieran quite a while to get it done and it was pretty much dark by the time I took it down. I pretty much got it clean besides having to fight a couple cams that Kieran shoved in there….

We packed up and headed back to the car so we could go pick Mark up. We went over to his place and ran into him as he was headed towards the Cliffside. I suggested that we go to the brew pub because the food was at least passable there vs Cliffside…

Mark must know a few people at the pub because we got the hugest plate of nachos I have ever personally witnessed at the brew pub…. It is amazing to converse with someone who has just as much stoke as you do. I felt as if we had a lot in common even if he is playing at an infinitely higher level…

He told us about his ascent of Genus Loci and how it was probably one of the coolest things he had done all summer.. I asked him if he liked it so much that he would go lead it again, but he said he would rather second it for a friend if they were trying to get the redpoint… ;)

I took this cheesy photo…



Kieran and I both had fun hanging out with Mark. Next morning it was back to work... ;)





What was your first time back on squamish granite after valley experience like????
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