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Out_of_bounds
climber
Squamish/Revy
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long time lurker here... Thanks for the heads up on the new guide Hamie.
I think that picture also shows the North Face route, which is a Fred Beckey and Yvon Chouinard route, and around the corner to the east is a Hamie and Bruce Fairley route, which sounds like it might be a good first ascent story.
There is some good sport climbing in Revy, and over the past few years there has been a number of long adventurous sport routes put up on Boulder Mtn and
Victor Lake Wall, which are all within close proximity of the Trans Canada Hwy.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Photos of the Elvis fish coming soon.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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RyanD,
The quality rock of Rogers Pass and the Bugaboos are the Canadian versions of the Sierras Eastside, except the weather is unstable, the bears are huge, and nasty electrical storms almost every afternoon. California is much more fun.
Look up Mount MacDonald in Rogers pass if you really want your mind blown. Or ask Bruce Kay about it. One thousand meters of hard fifth class climbing, in direct view of the highway the whole time, fa'ed very recently, 2010, "The North Pillar Direct " 5.11c A0 1000m x? "Sustained" is one descriptor used, minimum 5.9 every pitch for 25 pitches, lots of 5.11
In comparison, both the Seventh Rifle and the Watchtower on the North Howser Tower felt shorter, easier and less committing than the north face of MacDonald. - Jon Walsh
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mt. MacDonald, North Pillar
FA Bruce Kay, Jon Walsh
ED2 [Extremely Difficult Level 2] 11b.
"One of the great climbs of Rogers Pass".
Very cool, Bruce.
The differences between the Eastside [rockclimbing] and Rogers Pass [mountaineering] are mostly commitment, and suffering. :) :)
Talking of suffering..... When I was in Potrero last month I met a climber from Ontario called Van. He was stuck for two very cold nights last fall on Long Ledge near the top of the Salathe, by the same storm which caught Luke and his partner on the Muir.
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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You're not in California any more! Many creeks here are rivers in most other places in the world.
Word.
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Out_of_bounds
climber
Squamish/Revy
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Hey Bruce, it was nice to meet you today and thanks again for the ride, glad your jackets were still hanging around.
Spending time in Rogers Pass either to climb,ski or hike should be on everyone's tick list. For a fantastic resource of info on the area, check out www.rogerspass411.ca - It is a unreal source of info, which skiers might find the most useful but still very handy for climbers.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 01:33am PT
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Heck ya! MacDonald looks rad!!!
Ryand you should post your st vitus adventure in here!!!
Luke, your fish is sideways!! ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Haha not much more to tell there Mike, but since you've got extra taco time these days I'll give it a shot in hopes it will help you pass some time & crack a grin.
Even though Luke an I see each other all the time & hang out at the crag or in the rain somewhat regularly we had never really shared a rope, we've conspired to do many great climbs & even have a open wager on who will complete a certain climbing challenge first but its been tough to get out & tie in on the same line. We figured it was high time & while we were out cragging at lumberland in the afternoon (not sharing a rope though) we decided on an evening st V lap. The best apron route IMO + with Luke + @ night + for a chance to put a grin on BM's bedridden face had all the makings of a great outing.
As for details? Not much to tell, ive done the route a bunch & luke had only done the first & last pitch. Hmm, lets see: we simuled up the approach pitches to the ledge, when I saw Luke put me on the hip belay at the tie in I figured we were pretty much just carrying the rope up to the real climbing so yeah I was surprised for sure when Luke fell seconding the 5.7 just below the treed ledge! I caught him on a biner belay from my stance against the wall with my feet on the log, funny thing was I thought about my setup & readjusted just before he peeled. We had a good laugh about that & The rest of the route was fun, Luke led & we simuled up to memorial where Luke ran the PDL up memorial crack which was the first wetness we encountered on the climb. As mentioned elsewhere we conspired about ice on the buttress & Luke had inside info on the recently discovered samsquantch so we pussed out & headed down. Normally I'd take the gulley raps too but since we did Memorial crack there was no point by the time we got off there. As for the death rope, I think it's pretty sweet, but now that the swamp somehow disappeared(?????) underneath it, I'll just rap on my rope next time. Night climbing is fun & Luke climbs with the tenacity of a honey badger, likely his spirit animal- who wouldn't want to climb with a honey badger?? I look forward to more.
Now what I want to know is, how the hell does BK have all this time to pick all of this wonderful fruit?? Sounds like a brilliant climb you guys put up there. Bmacd, u ever climb your namesake mountain??
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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I think I recall that 5.7 move I peeled off on was a tad on the wet side...
Mike was extremely disappointed when I told him I was pulling on gear the whole way up. But we were moving at 200m vertical per hour rate which is pretty good considering our objective only requires 50m per hour.
Running the PDL for the first time was totally awesome.
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MH2
climber
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I worked night shift for years. There you are far from the centers of power, the sheriff is asleep, and you make your own rules.
Is PDL one of those position-sensitive headlamps?
Now go repost this great story on the What Did You Climb Last Night thread.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 11:24am PT
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As for the death rope, I think it's pretty sweet
Ya that roller I dropped a couple weekends ago is usually pretty sick too. Too bad I didn't stick the landing. Just saying be careful dude. I'd rather not find you lying next to me here or worse. When I'm better I'm gonna go chop that thing so no one else risks it...
Andy thanks for lunch yesterday dude!!!
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MH2
climber
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Good to see you getting some zzzzzs, Mike. You gotta turn it up a notch or several if you want to win any snoring contest, though. Don't worry too much. Between you and John Long lately there are lots of people being a little more careful. But sometimes a chicken just has to cross a road.
edit
Thanks Luke
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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The PDL is a short fixing technique were learning in order to coverground fast. Instead of the leader self belaying after fixin the rope you just start leadin with a death loop of slack, set up for loafty whip on to the anchor if you blow it before for first piece, until you run out of rope then your partner puts you back on belay.
A system best applied when leading in blocks with the "leader must never fall" mentality
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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"leader must never fall" mentality
Please describe how this axiom is achieved, because I don't believe the present generation of Squamish Internet climbers are capable of this method.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Pakistani Death Loop...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 04:27am PT
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Too sick dude!! I love it. Gotta go find a proper computer to watch it on downstairs!!
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