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Messages 4081 - 4100 of total 7692 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 12, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
Beefwhale was probably actually first climbed but not scrubbed by John Chilton in 92. By the time I started scrubbing in 94 there was no sign of it ever being done, but there was webbing on top around a tree. I figured someone had probably rapped in to check it out.

I always figured the chimney/gully right of Memphis Bound would be a great mixed route if the moss froze, but on the winter times I have been there, the moss has been too dry to freeze. There is a 2 inch splitter crack in there under the moss though.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Oct 13, 2012 - 01:07am PT
I climbed the obvious right facing corner at Cheekeye in 87 ish.
The Big Easy, 12 b-c stemmer, gear and two bolts.
Not technically the Canyon but same rock not far from the Cheakamus.
I wouldn't climb there unless you've got permission or bow and arrow in the woodpile.
MH2

climber
Oct 13, 2012 - 01:34am PT
Boot to the Head is at the south end of Shoot to Kill. It's in Kevin McLane's Whistler Rockclimbs.


Keith Reid did Gom Jabbar in '93 and Jola Sandford completed the route as Freewill two years later. It was soon after The Edge opened in North Vancouver that I first heard about Chek when someone asked, "Have you seen that overhanging crack Keith Reid is working on?"

I've had lots of fun with many climbs and people along that corridor and had the real sport-climbing experience of being on climbs way too hard for me. Also got a couple of routes that I had to work on; not my usual M.O.





When I say that the comparison of TM and Guy has to do with clowning, I do it with great respect. The clown holds your interest because you are never sure what they are going to do next. And they can scare you.



Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 13, 2012 - 02:09am PT
anyone have any stories about when climbing first started happening in chek canyon or any of the other bolted areas north of town??


As Anders mentioned much of the rock was sampled by various mountaineer types, such as the cracks at Nordic (The man from Jackson hole being Peter Koedt, a yank patroller at whistler in the 70's) or the Bastion ( Koedt, Barley, Roger Marshall, John Howard, 1970's) but most of the rock north of squamish is garbage unless cleaned, scaled and bolted for sport. The early Bastion routes in particular were justly doomed to obscurity with really alluring route names like Danish Dirt. If its stories you're after this is the crowd that would likely have them but i think they're all dead except for Robin.
Roger Marshall disappeared while soloing the north face of Everest, after successfully soloing Kangchenjunga.

I remember Dave Lane getting all excited about the foundation wall during "Shoot to Kill" saying its the next pet wall but he never got started there at all for some reason. In fact I think Kieth rieds gom jabar was one of the first sport routes there, as well as some Rogues Gallery routes from Roger Chayer and Dean Hart.

Suicide was developed by some whistler young bucks in the 90's (now mostly transplanted to squampton - Ike, Tmac, Flett and martinelo.)

Probably the most constant presence through a number of decades has been Robin barley. No surprise there.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
Wow cool stuff! Thanks for that! Great in-flight reading...

Hey Bruce, tell em about the frenchies you ran into yesterday.... Too funny !
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 13, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
Thanks for the history lesson boys! We have talked about a lot on this thread but not too much about the 1000+ routes that are north of town 30min-1hr so it's cool to learn a bit about them. As prominent as RB has been north of Squam it seems he never did much at chek or rogues?? I also have wondered why Shoot to kill doesn't have many more lines on it??

Chief- Is the corner you speak of "the line" on the cliffs above the Squam/Paradise valley fork?? Those cliffs look awesome, was there any other routes there before it was closed, or was it always closed?


ahhhhh the rain again.........
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 13, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
Perry and I went in there together. I bolted an overhanging dyke called Gator Wrestling to the left of The Big Easy(I think that's what the corner is called). I let it sit way too long as a project, so Hamish got the first ascent. Great climbing but Squamish Band turf and they weren't overly happy to see climbers there.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Oct 13, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
The Big Easy and Gator Wrestling are amazing climbs on the Cheekye Reserve.
As mentioned earlier, you need band permission or bow and arrow in the woodpile. I claimed the latter.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 13, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
I don't remember the date, but I went up with Jim Sanford a couple of times to work Division Bell. That is, he would work it, and I would watch and maybe climb some of the easier stuff nearby. Somebody with a guidebook could check the date, but it was fairly early. I'm sitting in Abbotsford International Airport, on my way to the flatlands, and don't have my Chekamus guide with me.

Actually I don't own a Chekamaus guide.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 13, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
So ghost, or anyone else who recalls. Did Sandford have to work division bell & a lot of his other harder routes (presto, permanent waves, technical ecstasy, carress of steel, etc.) for long periods of time?? Or did he just bolt & send pretty quickly then on to the next?? He seemed to get a lot done for a few years there.

Still looking for my first Sandford tick. Same goes for Hamish' routes.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 13, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
Still looking for my first Sandford tick.

There's a Sandford et al. route on Golden Hinde that might, I say might, be within your aptitude range (it's a 5.4) :p
gf

climber
Oct 13, 2012 - 10:21pm PT
In addition to the significant achievements on the big show cliff, credit should be given to roger chayer who did a lot to popularize the check area; including putting out the first guide (which i believe was posted upthread). Dean Hart with his eye for good lines added a couple mega classics at the salt sheds and a mr tyrone brett made substantial contributions over the years.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 13, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
For bonus points, where did many of the early route names at "Chek" come from? And why was the heifer fleeing?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 13, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
Was the heifer fleeing because it's easy to leave the barn door open on that one? At least that's usually what I do before ending up in the air.


Gf when u say salt sheds u mean rogues right??
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 13, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
I pity the kids these days who have grown up with internet weather forecasts and never had to call the Environment Canada toll-free number and listen to the The Original Fish Hotline ad before they told you if it was gonna rain or not
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 13, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
(it's a 5.4)


Turns out that was a typo. Actually it's rated 5.14 and he renamed it the golden hinde quarter.

Hey Bruce, tell em about the frenchies you ran into yesterday....


Mike stopped by to drop off my smelly shoes while exiting stage right for sunny california which reminded me of just a few hours previous running into a bunch of young quebecois down at one of the Stawamus river squats. The first monsoons of the winter were just starting the opening act and their little encampment was not quite prepared and neither were they. I knocked on the tent and they initially feigned limited english but warmed up a bit when it became obvious i was a friendly, only there to warn them of the torches and pitch forks likely to show up the next day. We stood there for a while, them looking like wet puppies abandoned in the forest amidst thier sodden droopy tents, old bags of damp Wonder Bread, and scattered bongs, me trying to stress upon them thier civic duty to actually clean all their crap up as they leave. But no - they say with happy grins that this is just a little sprinkle, It hardly rains here at all and they intend to continue their blissful utopian existence in the forest for another month or so while sending perfect crisp granite under the blue skies of autumn.

Their grins turned a little puzzled as i roared with laughter for a couple of minutes but that turned to horror as i finally managed to communicate that in fact this was no momentary pause in play and the likely hood of ever seeing dry stone again could only be enhanced with every kilometer they gain in a southbound direction. How far they asked to which I replied "California".

With this their smiles returned, no doubt with images of golden granite, cute girls and fresh bong loads amidst the happy boulders. They assured me the place would be spotless when they left so i left them to their wet Wonder Bread, went and repeated the conversation with a bunch of Irish just down stream.

Today an eclectic and varied bunch put a dent in the left behind detritus along the river. The stream keepers uncluttered various stream obstructions, the paddlers went on about the rising water and the climbers scrounged for booty. The CASBC leadership took one look at the 30 foot Teepee and decided to nail up an eviction notice and hope it all disappears by next week, either by hand or rising water. If anyone needs a whole pile of tarps and crappy Canadian tire tents then get on down there before we get that 150 mills thats forecast for tomorrow!

anybody need a set of golf clubs or guitar amp?  They had quite the sc...
anybody need a set of golf clubs or guitar amp? They had quite the scene going on down there!
Credit: Bruce Kay



gf

climber
Oct 14, 2012 - 12:04am PT
Nice one bruce on a bunch of counts-wish i was there
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 14, 2012 - 12:07am PT
Thanks for the Samaritan work Bruce, that is awesome! I cannot believe there was a teepee there still, I wonder if it's been there since I was last down there 2 summers ago or if it gets erected every year?? Regardless, good riddance.

For a minute I thought you were gonna go to Cali with the frenchies. For a minute I also thought you were talking about the bongs u guys used for rope climbing protection BITD. Not the ones us boulderers use for climbing protection nowadays.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Oct 14, 2012 - 02:07am PT
Jim, it's possible I stole your route Gator wresting as I went there with Dick Parker and looked up to see this amazing line with some bolts. I headed on up and at about half height I realized that the bolts were not all in yet and scared myself ####less running it out to the top with no pro and some hard climbing.I'm guessing that was late '89 or early 1990.
gf

climber
Oct 14, 2012 - 05:15am PT
harry you shameless route thief!
Hey let me know if you want to get some bindings on those planks i've got sitting in my basement with your name on them -winter is coming and we should tee this up
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