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RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 12, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
Oh Anders, always taking cheap shots at the boulderers. Just because we are tattooed & shirtless while wearing toques & shouting terms of endearment in other languages doesn't automatically mean we like circus environments?? If I ever catch u near the boulders we're gonna blow pot smoke in your face & force u to do some overhead heel hooking while flying heli cams all over the place capturing every moment :-)

MH2 what climb is boot to the head?? My info on BTBC being the first climb on forgotten wall comes straight from the old select so it is possibly.........wrong. Great climb either way & a good one to throw your gym climber friends on. I did get a free QuickDraw off that Clearcut climb the other day when walking by, it was on the 3rd bolt at a roof but there is a ramp that u can walk right up to there! Yay booty!

Oplanax or MH2 or anyone have any stories about when climbing first started happening in chek canyon or any of the other bolted areas north of town?? Nordic, rogues, calcheak?? Oplanax shared some info a while back on that OW near brandywine which was pretty interesting, let's hear more if there is more?



Edit- Oplanax is already on it, thanks!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
It doesn't sound like climbing with guy was ever boring......
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 12, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
There was climbing in Cheakamus Canyon proper at least from the late 1960s, both at locations downriver from StarCheak, and Trestle Tower. In the 1970s, we took people on the FMCBC mountaineering course there for their rock weekend. No reports of heli-bouldering, though.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 12, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
gf can probably share tales of climbing at Chek earlier than I can (92) and no doubt Tricouni was cragging along the Starvation Lake road crags in the 60s as well as at Trestle Tower.

I recall gandering at all the rock in Cheakamus Canyon quite a bit in the early 90s. After a hiking/paragliding trip up Gentian Ridge with L.H. we were driving back from Rubble Creek and I was gaping out the window at some roadside rocks saying "Those look pretty good for climbing!" L told me "No one will ever come here to climb. The place for new routes is where the people are - in the Smoke Bluffs". Six months later the roadside rocks I had been gaping at were Rogue's Gallery and it was game on.

I have to say that most of the routes I have done in Cheakamus have been roundly ignored, probably because they almost all take some gear and no one ever goes to Cheakamus with a rack. That said I think some of them are pretty good.

"Jugular Vein" at the Rehabs is a beautiful line - laybacking a wide crack then endless gym-feature holds up a steep wall.

"Nine Inch Rage Against Jane's Tool", besides having a name taken from the Georgia Straight music classifieds section (I think it was in the bassist wanted section) is one of the steepest 5.8s in all of Squamish, more so than the Milkman, and entirely gear protected too.

On the other hand "Beefwhale" is a dog. 50 hrs of scrubbing and 10 hours of hitchhiking for that? Some really fun moves, but it grows over too fast to be a classic. At least MH2 belayed me. The part I remember now about that climb is the hitchhikes home from Cheakamus scrubbing missions. I would be standing next to the desolate pre-Olympics road with my thumb out, covered from head to toe in lichen and dust. When someone eventually stopped their first question would usually be "What did you DO to get dropped off HERE?"

Climbing with Guy was always fun. Actually just being with Guy was always fun. Shopping cart races down the 4th Avenue hill, storm drain swimming, all that. I really still do miss Fast Eddie. I think everyone who ever met him does.

MH2 do you still have the GE vs TM Herbert pants comparison slide?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
Drew, I thought you were talking about either beefwhale or Memphis bound.. I've done the latter but not the former. Maybe time for a scrub to check er' out!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 12, 2012 - 05:55pm PT
Beefwhale was probably actually first climbed but not scrubbed by John Chilton in 92. By the time I started scrubbing in 94 there was no sign of it ever being done, but there was webbing on top around a tree. I figured someone had probably rapped in to check it out.

I always figured the chimney/gully right of Memphis Bound would be a great mixed route if the moss froze, but on the winter times I have been there, the moss has been too dry to freeze. There is a 2 inch splitter crack in there under the moss though.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Oct 12, 2012 - 10:07pm PT
I climbed the obvious right facing corner at Cheekeye in 87 ish.
The Big Easy, 12 b-c stemmer, gear and two bolts.
Not technically the Canyon but same rock not far from the Cheakamus.
I wouldn't climb there unless you've got permission or bow and arrow in the woodpile.
MH2

climber
Oct 12, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
Boot to the Head is at the south end of Shoot to Kill. It's in Kevin McLane's Whistler Rockclimbs.


Keith Reid did Gom Jabbar in '93 and Jola Sandford completed the route as Freewill two years later. It was soon after The Edge opened in North Vancouver that I first heard about Chek when someone asked, "Have you seen that overhanging crack Keith Reid is working on?"

I've had lots of fun with many climbs and people along that corridor and had the real sport-climbing experience of being on climbs way too hard for me. Also got a couple of routes that I had to work on; not my usual M.O.





When I say that the comparison of TM and Guy has to do with clowning, I do it with great respect. The clown holds your interest because you are never sure what they are going to do next. And they can scare you.



Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 12, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
anyone have any stories about when climbing first started happening in chek canyon or any of the other bolted areas north of town??


As Anders mentioned much of the rock was sampled by various mountaineer types, such as the cracks at Nordic (The man from Jackson hole being Peter Koedt, a yank patroller at whistler in the 70's) or the Bastion ( Koedt, Barley, Roger Marshall, John Howard, 1970's) but most of the rock north of squamish is garbage unless cleaned, scaled and bolted for sport. The early Bastion routes in particular were justly doomed to obscurity with really alluring route names like Danish Dirt. If its stories you're after this is the crowd that would likely have them but i think they're all dead except for Robin.
Roger Marshall disappeared while soloing the north face of Everest, after successfully soloing Kangchenjunga.

I remember Dave Lane getting all excited about the foundation wall during "Shoot to Kill" saying its the next pet wall but he never got started there at all for some reason. In fact I think Kieth rieds gom jabar was one of the first sport routes there, as well as some Rogues Gallery routes from Roger Chayer and Dean Hart.

Suicide was developed by some whistler young bucks in the 90's (now mostly transplanted to squampton - Ike, Tmac, Flett and martinelo.)

Probably the most constant presence through a number of decades has been Robin barley. No surprise there.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 09:37am PT
Wow cool stuff! Thanks for that! Great in-flight reading...

Hey Bruce, tell em about the frenchies you ran into yesterday.... Too funny !
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 13, 2012 - 11:58am PT
Thanks for the history lesson boys! We have talked about a lot on this thread but not too much about the 1000+ routes that are north of town 30min-1hr so it's cool to learn a bit about them. As prominent as RB has been north of Squam it seems he never did much at chek or rogues?? I also have wondered why Shoot to kill doesn't have many more lines on it??

Chief- Is the corner you speak of "the line" on the cliffs above the Squam/Paradise valley fork?? Those cliffs look awesome, was there any other routes there before it was closed, or was it always closed?


ahhhhh the rain again.........
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 13, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
Perry and I went in there together. I bolted an overhanging dyke called Gator Wrestling to the left of The Big Easy(I think that's what the corner is called). I let it sit way too long as a project, so Hamish got the first ascent. Great climbing but Squamish Band turf and they weren't overly happy to see climbers there.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Oct 13, 2012 - 01:06pm PT
The Big Easy and Gator Wrestling are amazing climbs on the Cheekye Reserve.
As mentioned earlier, you need band permission or bow and arrow in the woodpile. I claimed the latter.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 13, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
I don't remember the date, but I went up with Jim Sanford a couple of times to work Division Bell. That is, he would work it, and I would watch and maybe climb some of the easier stuff nearby. Somebody with a guidebook could check the date, but it was fairly early. I'm sitting in Abbotsford International Airport, on my way to the flatlands, and don't have my Chekamus guide with me.

Actually I don't own a Chekamaus guide.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 13, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
So ghost, or anyone else who recalls. Did Sandford have to work division bell & a lot of his other harder routes (presto, permanent waves, technical ecstasy, carress of steel, etc.) for long periods of time?? Or did he just bolt & send pretty quickly then on to the next?? He seemed to get a lot done for a few years there.

Still looking for my first Sandford tick. Same goes for Hamish' routes.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 13, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
Still looking for my first Sandford tick.

There's a Sandford et al. route on Golden Hinde that might, I say might, be within your aptitude range (it's a 5.4) :p
gf

climber
Oct 13, 2012 - 07:21pm PT
In addition to the significant achievements on the big show cliff, credit should be given to roger chayer who did a lot to popularize the check area; including putting out the first guide (which i believe was posted upthread). Dean Hart with his eye for good lines added a couple mega classics at the salt sheds and a mr tyrone brett made substantial contributions over the years.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 13, 2012 - 07:27pm PT
For bonus points, where did many of the early route names at "Chek" come from? And why was the heifer fleeing?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 13, 2012 - 07:51pm PT
Was the heifer fleeing because it's easy to leave the barn door open on that one? At least that's usually what I do before ending up in the air.


Gf when u say salt sheds u mean rogues right??
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 13, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
I pity the kids these days who have grown up with internet weather forecasts and never had to call the Environment Canada toll-free number and listen to the The Original Fish Hotline ad before they told you if it was gonna rain or not
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