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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Aug 13, 2014 - 08:14pm PT
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#48
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JKK
Social climber
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Aug 18, 2014 - 09:06am PT
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To my surprise, I've done 12!
20.Forbidden Peak, West Ridge II 5.2
21.Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier
22.Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2
24.Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3
37.Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route III 5.9
46.Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
41.Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
43.Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
44.El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3
39. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 18, 2014 - 09:37am PT
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Mt Shuksan, Price Glacier, BwaHaHaHaHa! WTF?
JKK, not directed at you. I've done more than my share of Cascade walkups.
I almost enjoyed some of them!
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Homer2
Trad climber
Winters,CA
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Aug 18, 2014 - 10:03am PT
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1) Castleton
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whitemtn Matt
Trad climber
Intervale, NH
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Aug 18, 2014 - 10:13am PT
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I've done 6, several twice, but considering I live in New Hampshire, not out west, I think that's pretty good.
Matt Peer
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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Aug 18, 2014 - 12:51pm PT
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I HAVE MANAGED 1...THE SALATHE WALL
DID THE 1ST 4 PITCHES OF THE NOSE. CLIMBED JULY 4TH GOT WAY TO HOT DRANK ALL OUR LIQUIDS WHEN WE GOT ON THAT LEDGE BEFORE THE PENGI INTO THE STOVELEG CRACK. THEN WE HIT THE BAR AND BEGAN TO DRINK OUR BODY WEIGHT. WAS CLIMBING WITH CLEAN DAN...SURE SOME OF YOU HERE MAY REMEMBER HIM. HE INVENTED THE RECTIFYER AFTER YOU PUT A YOUR MONY INTO THE TELEPHONE AND WHEN YOU FINISHED YOUR CALL AL THE MONEY WOULD COME BACK AND THE NEXT SEASON WHEN THE VALLEY STARTED RUBBER STAMPING THE CANS WITH A MARK OF HALF DOME WHEN SOME DIDN'T HAVE THIS HE MADE ONE AND WE WOULD SIT AROUND CAMP 4 STAMPING AWAY AND BY THE END OF THE DAY IT WOULD BE PIZZA AND BEER ALL AROUND. AHH THOSE WERE THE DAYS
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 18, 2014 - 02:00pm PT
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Great list, but I wanna see other peoples lists, the quirkier the better!
I'll start;
Astroman
Lost arrow direct
La chimbly
Washington column direct
MorButt
The good book
Steck salathe
Excalithe
Wide world of sport -Patterson bluff, ca
The passionate life - ibid
Sorceret's crossing- Moab
Tricks of the trade-Zion
Edwards crack- vedauwoo
El matador -DeTo
Tad. ". "
Mc north
The eye-josh
Medicine man, cnp
Ottos route
I'll get back to this....
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TheCuban
Trad climber
NJ
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Aug 18, 2014 - 02:26pm PT
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Slightly different subject but I've climbed all 50 states :)
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larryhorton
Trad climber
NM
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Aug 18, 2014 - 09:43pm PT
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◆ Royal Arches (1968)
◆ Grand Teton, North Face (1969)
◆ Wolf's Head, East Ridge (1969, and at least 7 times after, including solo, naked, and a solo body recovery)
◆ Lost Arrow Spire (1970)
◆ El Cap, Nose (1970)
◆ Mount Stuart, North Ridge (1971)
◆ Pingora, Northeast Face (1972)
◆ Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Arete (1988)
◆ Fairview Dome, North Face (1990)
◆ Mt. Whitney, East Face (1990, solo day trip)
Nice little reverie for an old guy. Eight of the ten were climbed long before the ‘list’ was published. Guess how many people we saw?
This book lit a fire in a lot of climbers, including me, but not as much fire as any one of these lovely climbs — and hundreds more.
What a trip, eh?
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nh
climber
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Aug 18, 2014 - 10:49pm PT
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46. I'm almost half way there.
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Rosamond
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 20, 2014 - 10:08am PT
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I've done quite a few of them, don't remember how many exactly. The likely contender for all 50 would be Dave Nettle, who did the second ascent on Hummingbird, by a minor variation. First, start with the extremely short list of people who've completed the Hummingbird, and are under the age of 80, which is, to my knowledge, exactly 2 people, from the exactly 2 successful ascents to date; most if not all of the first ascent party in the 1960s are dead now. Then work your way backwards.
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Aug 21, 2014 - 08:30am PT
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^^^^
46. I'm almost half way there.
Good morning, Nancy! (assuming nh is you...)
For those Taco-ans who haven't been fortunate enough to meet this truly amazing woman, here's a video from her second attempt on Middle Triple Peak
"The Kitchatna Blues, live from the Sunshine Glacier"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxVRKB-oDnY
You go, girl! :-)
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Aug 22, 2014 - 11:40am PT
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Alpinist 30 has a comprehensive article on Logan showing routes to the summit, including the Nettle/Creighton Thunderbird variation, which on the Alpinist topo is shown connecting with Hummingbird Ridge at a point more than halfway up the original route.
Mark Smiley's blog (referenced in the climbing.com article above) has a detailed TR of their attempt this year, and why they backed off.
http://smileysproject.blogspot.com/2014/07/mt-logans-hummingbird-ridge_30.html
Smiley's photos (kinda like the mountain showing in Nancy's "Kitchatna Blues" video) show what looks like insanely rotten snow/ice on the ridge.
Will these routes ever be in safe condition again? Welcoming input from those more knowledgeable on the ways of the high wild.
Em
(just a gumby, though Brutus hauled my corpulent butt up 13 of the 50 Classics)
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Mad69Dog
Ice climber
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Aug 24, 2014 - 10:52am PT
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I just visualized doing all 50. It was awesome!
By the way, Allen says that the key piece of gear for the Hummingbird was a snow shovel.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Aug 24, 2014 - 12:03pm PT
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Got one more last week
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
It was worth the three hour wait.
Got my 15th 14er too.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 24, 2014 - 12:19pm PT
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I tried unsuccessfully to get Nancy Hansen to come and speak at the Oakdale Festival and would still love to hear from her about her climbing.
46 of 50 is a big story in and of itself and well out in front for that prize, I suspect!
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karen roseme
Mountain climber
Bishop
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Aug 25, 2014 - 10:05am PT
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I have 11. Yay! I might get a couple more someday.
Good job Nancy! It is not an easy list. Not sure how classic they all are though.
Some of the climbs have only seen a few accents. How can they be a classic when they hardly ever get done?
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crankster
Trad climber
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Aug 25, 2014 - 10:07am PT
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Well done, martini.
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Rosamond
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 31, 2014 - 09:09am PT
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I've always wondered why he chose some of those particular climbs. If I were to put together a list of the California climbs I consider true classics, I'd exchnge Hospital corner for traveler's buttress any day. I'd also add in the winter, ice climbing version of eyore's ecstasy at the leap, which almost never gets done. And i'd definitely put Matthes crest in there, and the great white book, just because they're pretty. And forget about the NE on middle cathedral; the DNB is where it's at, even though a couple pitches up top are filthy. And add harding's keeler needle, SW conness, and astroman in there. Also, Mendel Couloir. And One hand clapping at donner summit. Then, in alaska, the Muldrow traverse is a much better route than the west buttress. And the HIghway of diamonds route on foraker should be in there. I think its only had 2 ascents so far. The 50 crowded climbs book is just a compilation of his own personal opinions and biases. This list includes my own biases.
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