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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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So, I think the dinosaurs deserve extra credit if their ascents were among the first 10.
Jess sayin'. Not to mention if they were winter ascents.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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There's leaders, and there's followers......
Your own call.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Thirteen for me, if I can count a north face start to the East Ridge of Temple. We climbed that long couloir, bivied in it because we started late, bivied again on the way down--long route! One of the best adventures of my life, however. I never did become a rad North Face extremist, so that was my chance, sleeping on a narrow ledge in the gully that we carved from the rubble, our feet dangling over the edge, the lights of Lake Louise like Kleine Scheidegg below. I was Dr. Hemlock and my wife Jemima Brown--a shorter, whiter Jewish Jemima. What a great climb. Dodged some scary rock fall before escaping the gully, and the rock on the East Ridge proper will give California rock jocks bleeding ulcers.
Always wanted to do the NF of Cavell, too, but ended up doing the E. Ridge a couple of times, once with my wife and once with another partner. That is a true Rockies classic, however. Good rock, great position, pretty safe as alpine Rockies routes go. Bring some good walking shoes for the way out, however. It's a long, long day, that one.
My list:
9.Mount Sir Donald, Northwest Arete III 5.2
10.Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7
15.Mount Temple, East Ridge IV 5.6
24.Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3
27.Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge III 5.6
39.The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
43.Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
46.Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
48.Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8
49.Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7
50.Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9
BAd
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Middle Cathedral- East Butt.
El Cap - Nose
Mount Whitney- East Face
Fairview-North Face
Charlotte- South Face
I drooled over all the others.
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john bald
climber
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Fourteen
on five additional without summit
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, CA
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Ten by my count for this weekend warrior until old injuries took me out of the game in the late '90s.
29. Mount Moran, Direct South Buttress IV 5.7 A3 (1983)
39. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9 (a few times)
40. Lost Arrow Spire, by way of Lost Arrow Direct (1996)
41. Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3 (1981)
42. Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10 (1980s)
43. Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11 (1979/1980s, 3 ascents)
44. El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3 (1981)
45. El Capitan, Salathé Wall VI 5.10 A3 (1981)
47. Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9 (1980s)
50. Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9 (1980s)
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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^^^^^^
I really enjoyed the videos of them working their way through the list.
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Jay Hack
Trad climber
Detroit, Michigan
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11
With attempts on 3 others
I also downclimbed 2 in that list from going up other routes.
Fun with lists...tick tick tick tick
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Knocked off ten along the way:
Howser Tower
Edith Cavell
Fairview
Steck Salathe
Nose
Salathe
Crestone Needle
Hallets Peak (pre rockfall)
Petit Grepon
Lovers Leap
If one were to count nearby routes that provide experiences similar to the targeted ones, I would have a few more:
EB Middle Cathedral (Stoners)
Diamond D1: (Casual or Yellow Wall)
Castleton Tower (Fine Jade)
Several are still within my abilities, so there is hope to increase the number before the end of the day.
Royal Arches, here I come!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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50 Crowded Climbs?
I did my fair share BITD, but more than 20 years ago I decided to stick to my own routes and to lay aside a similar book project on desert climbs.
Clint, strange co-incidence, I put up Thunderbird wall in '86 and the following spring lost my partners Dave and Catherine on the Hummingbird.
Dave and I had done the Nose with a third member who had already been killed by rockfall.
So perhaps a more poignant question would be; of all the partners you've had on the 50 classics how many have you lost to climbing accidents?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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I lost one partner who I did 3 of the 50 with (Salathe' Wall, East Buttress of Middle, Fairview North Face) - Chris Chan. But I have done those routes multiple times.
I lost 2 climbing partners when they attempted the Wishbone Arete on Mt. Robson in 1984 and were never found - Nick Vanderbilt and Francis Gledhill.
(Which is a slightly different question).
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Aug 12, 2014 - 12:23pm PT
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Did Wolfs Head this week. No problems with crowding, just had to wait for it to quit raining for long enough for us to get it in. Did Pingora on Sunday the 3rd then had to sit out three days of rain to do Wolfs Head on Thursday and that started out with Rain too. We had a party of three with a party of two behind us that never quite caught up due to simal climbing on quite a few pitches. Even the days in the rain were good for fishing and the views of the peaks in the clouds was spectacular. The wild flowers were unbelievable. Lots of snow still left in the cirque. Parking lot was full but no lines and not waiting.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Aug 12, 2014 - 12:36pm PT
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1 Liberty Ridge 2011
2 Travelers Buttress 2011
3 East Buttress of Middle Cathedral 2011 (just a few days ago)
4 Fairview Dome 2011
5 Mt Stuart (Full north ridge with gendarme as a dayhike via mountaineers creek)
6 East ridge of Bugaboo Spire
7 Beckey Chouinard on South Howser
8 Clyde Minaret SE Face direct day hike
9 Charlotte Dome South Face
10 Mt. Whitney East Face day hike
11 Royal Arches
12 Castleton Tower-Kor Ingalls
13 Lost Arrow Spire (as LASD)
14: Steck Salathe
15: The Nose
16: Reg. NW Face of HD
It is interesting how a regular book made crowds of people climb all these routes, some of which are average for the area.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Aug 12, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
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42, 43, 44
Can someone please post the list of all 50?
Here ya go.
Alaska and the Yukon
1.Mount Saint Elias, Abruzzi Ridge
2.Mount Fairweather, Carpé Ridge
3.Mount Hunter, West Ridge
4.Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge
5.Moose’s Tooth, West Ridge
6.Mount Huntington, West Face 5.9 A2 with “severe snow and ice”
7.Mount Logan, Hummingbird Ridge
8.Middle Triple Peak, East Buttress VI 5.9 A3
Western Canada
9.Mount Sir Donald, Northwest Arete III 5.2
10.Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7
11.South Howser Tower, West Buttress V 5.8 A2 or 5.10
12.Mount Robson, Wishbone Arete V 5.6
13.Mount Edith Cavell, North Face IV 5.7
14.Mount Alberta, Japanese Route IV 5.6
15.Mount Temple, East Ridge IV 5.6
16.Mount Waddington, South Face V 5.7
17.Devils Thumb, East Ridge IV 5.6
18.Lotus Flower Tower V 5.8 A2 or 5.10
The Pacific Northwest
19.Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge
20.Forbidden Peak, West Ridge II 5.2
21.Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier
22.Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2
23.Mount Stuart, North Ridge III 5.4
24.Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3
Wyoming
25.Devil’s Tower,
Durrance Route II 5.6-5.7
26.Grand Teton, North Ridge IV 5.7
27.Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge III 5.6
28.Grand Teton, North Face IV 5.8
29.Mount Moran, Direct South Buttress IV 5.7 A3
30.Pingora, Northeast Face IV 5.8
31.Wolf's Head, East Ridge II 5.5
Colorado
32.Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Ledges III 5.7
33.Hallett Peak, Northcutt-Carter Route III 5.7
34.Petit Grepon, South Face III 5.7
35.Longs Peak, The Diamond, D1 V 5.7 A4 or 5.11
The Southwest
36.Shiprock, III 5.7 A2 or 5.9
37.Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route III 5.9
38.Fisher Towers, The Titan, Finger of Fate, IV 5.8 A3
California
39. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
40.Lost Arrow Spire, Spire Chimney III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2
41.Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
43.Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
44.El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3
45.El Capitan, Salathé Wall VI 5.10 A3
46.Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
48.Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8
49.Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7
50.Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9
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Luke Lydiard
Ice climber
CA
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Aug 13, 2014 - 03:28pm PT
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I just came across a paperback edition of Steck and Roper's 50 Classic Climbs. It is the 1978 paperback edition. Blue cover. It's in decent shape. Bit of rough edges.
Looking to get $100 for it. I'll ship it USPS for free to anywhere in the US.
Also have a 1st Edition Climbing Ice by Yvon Chouinard paperback in really good shape. $70. Free Shipping.
Shoot me an email at lukelydiard at hotmail dot com if you are interested.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Aug 13, 2014 - 04:05pm PT
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One of the climbs is the East ridge of Mt Temple near Lake Louise.
It is more like a 5.7/5.8 but requires lots of unroped climbing up to about 5.3. The average 5.6 rock climber with limited alpine experience would be totally out of his/her depth on it.
There were a number of rescues and even a few deaths in the first few years after the Roper book was published.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 13, 2014 - 04:19pm PT
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They ain't all classic, that's for sure. The North Face of the Grand totally sucks until you get to the Second Ledge.
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