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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 11, 2011 - 09:42pm PT
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Has anyone done all of the original 50? I kinda' doubt it. I am refering to the Roper Steck book if you have any question.
A young gym climber at Rockreation Costa Mesa, Nick, asked.
How many have you done?
My count is 12.
Devil's Tower- Durrance Rt.
Pingora- NE Face
Shiprock
Castleton- Kor Ingall's
The Titan- Finger of Fate
Sentinal Rock- Steck-Salathe
Middle Cathedral- East Butt.
El Cap - Nose
Mount Whitney- East Face
Fairview-North Face
Charlotte- South Face
Lover's Leap- Traveler's Butt.
Been rained etc. off of 4 more.
It's about time for a new book.
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Aug 11, 2011 - 09:49pm PT
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Try "Fifty favorite climbs: the ultimate North American tick list" by Mark Kroese.
I don't think Hummingbird Ridge has had a true second ascent (?) so no one has ever done all 50 of the originals.
I think my count is 11.
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WhiskeyToast
Social climber
Hawaii
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Aug 11, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
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2.
Shiprock
Castleton Tower
Been rained or snowed off of about 6 others.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 11, 2011 - 10:10pm PT
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5. I don't think I'm enough of an alpinist to aspire to most.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
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Feel free to argue how "classic" or "representative" these routes are. Hummingbird Ridge.....uh huh.
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moacman
Trad climber
Montana
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Aug 11, 2011 - 10:28pm PT
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There has been a variation done on the Hummingbird Ridge but the original ridge proper I don't believe has been repeated. Sadly I lost a dear friend trying to repeat it.
Stevo
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 11, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
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Geez, surprised myself, 15. But I had to count descending Liberty Ridge since
I've never climbed it. But since it was winter and in the dark with a
broken foot I'm pretty sure it counts.
I also want credit for Wolfshead- pulled a lightning victim off it and lost
our only good day.
But, really, Royal Arches?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 11, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
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thought we did this once before but couldn't find it...
I've got 7:
Pingora
Wolf's Head
Royal Arches
Lost Arrow Spire
Fairview Dome
Traveler Buttress
attempted:
Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge
Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge
Mount Robson, Wishbone Arete
Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge
looked at:
Mount Edith Cavell, North Face
Mount Temple, East Ridge
Grand Teton, North Face
Mount Moran, Direct South Buttress
climbed other routes nearby many of those..
think I might get maybe 10 more... we'll see..
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bearbnz
Trad climber
East Side, California
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Aug 11, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
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A while back Florine was talking about doing all 50 in 50 days, I think back when he tried to set the record for the CA 14ers. That project seemed unlikely to be done. Doing all 50 would be tough, throw in the time constraint and it becomes much more difficult... Logan alone could take 50 days.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Aug 11, 2011 - 10:52pm PT
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30-32 or so, would have to check the book. All in CO, CA, and the SW, all except NF in WY, quite a few in Canada and the PNW.
I can't see myself doing all 50 or even trying.
There are several that shouldn't have made the book - Hummingbird Ridge, Middle Triple, etc - impressive climbs for the day, right around when the book was published - but not classics anywhere near in the same sense as most of the other routes.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 11, 2011 - 11:03pm PT
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A while back Florine was talking about doing all 50 in 50 days,
He did 20 in 20 days. Can't find the year, but seems like somewhere in the 2003 or 2004 range.
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Rockin' Gal
Trad climber
Boulder
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Aug 11, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
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As Allen Steck told me, if you don't like these 50 pick your own.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 11, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
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Can someone please post the list of all 50?
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Aug 11, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
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Just found the book with my notes from the 1970's. I was interested in a fair number, but climbed few.
East Ridge Bugaboo 1975
Liberty Ridge Rainier 1980
Grand Teton, Direct Exum 1983
Royal Arches-twice.1970's
Weather can always be a problem on these two.
South Howser Tower, West Butt (Becky-Chouinard)---2 backoffs.
Complete N. Ridge Stuart-3 backoffs.
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Gene
climber
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Aug 11, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
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Can someone please post the list of all 50?
Here ya go.
Alaska and the Yukon
1.Mount Saint Elias, Abruzzi Ridge
2.Mount Fairweather, Carpé Ridge
3.Mount Hunter, West Ridge
4.Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge
5.Moose’s Tooth, West Ridge
6.Mount Huntington, West Face 5.9 A2 with “severe snow and ice”
7.Mount Logan, Hummingbird Ridge
8.Middle Triple Peak, East Buttress VI 5.9 A3
Western Canada
9.Mount Sir Donald, Northwest Arete III 5.2
10.Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7
11.South Howser Tower, West Buttress V 5.8 A2 or 5.10
12.Mount Robson, Wishbone Arete V 5.6
13.Mount Edith Cavell, North Face IV 5.7
14.Mount Alberta, Japanese Route IV 5.6
15.Mount Temple, East Ridge IV 5.6
16.Mount Waddington, South Face V 5.7
17.Devils Thumb, East Ridge IV 5.6
18.Lotus Flower Tower V 5.8 A2 or 5.10
The Pacific Northwest
19.Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge
20.Forbidden Peak, West Ridge II 5.2
21.Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier
22.Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2
23.Mount Stuart, North Ridge III 5.4
24.Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3
Wyoming
25.Devil’s Tower,
Durrance Route II 5.6-5.7
26.Grand Teton, North Ridge IV 5.7
27.Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge III 5.6
28.Grand Teton, North Face IV 5.8
29.Mount Moran, Direct South Buttress IV 5.7 A3
30.Pingora, Northeast Face IV 5.8
31.Wolf's Head, East Ridge II 5.5
Colorado
32.Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Ledges III 5.7
33.Hallett Peak, Northcutt-Carter Route III 5.7
34.Petit Grepon, South Face III 5.7
35.Longs Peak, The Diamond, D1 V 5.7 A4 or 5.11
The Southwest
36.Shiprock, III 5.7 A2 or 5.9
37.Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route III 5.9
38.Fisher Towers, The Titan, Finger of Fate, IV 5.8 A3
California
39. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
40.Lost Arrow Spire, Spire Chimney III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2
41.Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
43.Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
44.El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3
45.El Capitan, Salathé Wall VI 5.10 A3
46.Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
48.Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8
49.Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7
50.Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 11, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
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I have 13........and that might be it for me.......Hummingbird ridge....hmmmmmm....I say, hmmmmmm....
I got the easy ones...
1. Travelers Butt.
2. Durrance (The Tower)
3. Pingora
4. Wolf's Head
5. Shiprock
6. Castleton
7. Titan (with DEE....cool...)
8. royal arches
9. Lost Arrow
10. Half Dome NW face
11. Fairview
12. Middle (E.Butt)
13. Grand (Exum)
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Aug 11, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
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i choose my own 50
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 12, 2011 - 12:28am PT
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hey there say, dee ee... thanks for the neat and interesting share...
:)
thanks all, for chipping in...
:)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 12, 2011 - 12:29am PT
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18, over the years. Good fun on most of these.
Western Canada
10.Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7
11.South Howser Tower, West Buttress V 5.8 A2 or 5.10
The Pacific Northwest
20.Forbidden Peak, West Ridge II 5.2
22.Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2 [5.9+ w/o direct start]
23.Mount Stuart, [Complete] North Ridge III 5.4 [IV 5.9]
24.Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3
Colorado
35.Longs Peak, The Diamond, D1 [Casual Route instead...] V 5.7 A4 or 5.11
The Southwest
37.Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route III 5.9
California
39.The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
40.Lost Arrow Spire, Spire Chimney III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2 [did the Tip, actual classic is the Chimney]
41.Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
43.Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
44.El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3 [or 5.13]
45.El Capitan, Salathé Wall VI 5.10 A3 [or 5.13]
46.Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
50.Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9
and a couple that I would have put on the list (my bias towards rock climbs):
 Snowpatch Spire, SE Corner
Elephant's Perch, The Fine Line
Moses, Primrose Dihedrals
Half Dome, Snake Dike
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Tony
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Aug 12, 2011 - 12:44am PT
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A measly 9, with two others attempted:
Devil’s Tower, Durrance Route II 5.6-5.7
Hallett Peak, Northcutt-Carter Route III 5.7 (No longer exists, I hear)
Petit Grepon, South Face III 5.7
Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route III 5.9
Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9 (with Rotten Log in place)
Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9
Hopefully, I can manage a couple of other of the easy ones.
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Mimi
climber
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Aug 12, 2011 - 12:45am PT
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Nice thread dee ee. The 50 Crowded as they're also called.
I've only got 7 (with a couple of attempts) but not dead yet.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 12, 2011 - 12:51am PT
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Guess I'm not doing so badly after all.
Traveler's Buttress
South Face Charlotte Dome (really worth the hike)
Royal Arches, Fairview Regular, E Butt Middle Cath.
Ok, except for Charlotte Dome approach, these are all easy ones.
Would rather do the E Butt of Whitney than the E Face.
Tried and failed: Clyde Minaret Southeast Face: route finding problems. Still on my "list", just needing a good partner.
Grand Teton Lower Exum Ridge, thwarted by bad weather last week. We planned to do the route all the way to the summit rather than just the lower 6 pitches.
I think there's a small confusion about this route. The "direct" route in 50 classic climbs is currently called "Lower Exum Ridge" and is 5.7. The "Direct Route" is rated 5.8 and was done by Jim Williams and Robin Moore in 1986, after "50 Classic Climbs" was published in 1979. Tetons reference: "A Climber's Guide To The Teton Range" Renny Jackson and Leigh Ortenberger, 1996
Right next to the Lower Exum Ridge is the Petzold Ridge which looks as good or even better.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Aug 12, 2011 - 12:57am PT
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He did 20 in 20 days. Can't find the year, but seems like somewhere in the 2003 or 2004 range.
Pretty sure it was 1993. Time flies huh?
I was headed up to do the NIAD as they were coming off.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 12, 2011 - 12:58am PT
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9.Mount Sir Donald, Northwest Arete III 5.2
10.Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7
11.South Howser Tower, West Buttress V 5.8 A2 or 5.10
20.Forbidden Peak, West Ridge II 5.2
21.Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier
22.Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2
31.Wolf's Head, East Ridge II 5.5
39. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
I guess nine isn't so bad.
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beluga
climber
Nowhere
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Aug 12, 2011 - 12:59am PT
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2 of those, but I've at least 50 of my own. I'd hope that you do too.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 12, 2011 - 01:25am PT
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Royal Arches
E Butt. Of Middle
Arrow Tip
NW Face of Half Dome
Traveler's Buttress
E. Face of Whitney
SW Face of Clyde Minaret
Attempted:
The Nose (3 times--rain, chopped rope, ropes poached)
Charlotte Dome (late start)
Kor-Ingals, Castleton: late start with SLOW partner-- the wife)
How did so many of you do Ship Rock? I thought it was off limits.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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Aug 12, 2011 - 01:36am PT
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Kor/Ingalls, Castleton
East Face, Whitney
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Mimi
climber
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Aug 12, 2011 - 02:01am PT
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Way to go, Riles. We did that thing with a party of eight. Great day of climbing that was. Those radial dikes are beautiful.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 12, 2011 - 02:13am PT
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Weld_it must be sick, or maybe hijacked - his first ever post with korrect speling and grammer.
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Mimi
climber
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Aug 12, 2011 - 02:15am PT
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Hey Weldo, it's cuz it's the 50 crowded of North America. You know where that is don't you?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 12, 2011 - 02:23am PT
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Y'all are a bunch of whiners and wannabees. "Nine. "Eleven." "Seven"
fukin losers. I'm already at 49, and next Tuesday I'm for sure gonna get that purple route on the west corner wall at the gym, which will give me all 50.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Aug 12, 2011 - 02:23am PT
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It is too savage for such a pedestrian list !!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Aug 12, 2011 - 02:30am PT
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I got two.
Then I lost my book, and I don't want to pay Chessler prices for another one, at least not right now.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 12, 2011 - 02:39am PT
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None of your business.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Aug 12, 2011 - 02:53am PT
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.75 for me.
I was ferrying cars one at a time for our move from NH to OR and was on the second car I think. I stopped in Chicago to see some friends and was driving non-stop until I saw a sign that said Devils Tower. I had no idea it was even there and whether my gear was in that load or not! I took the exit to check and it turns out it was - score.
So I rolled into the parking lot about 1pm and talked to a ranger who turned out to be a climber from SoIll. He said everyone was probably already climbing so I walked around it until I spotted a likely candidate for a roped solo and headed up. It kept going, going and going and the sun kept sinking and sinking but I didn't have a watch. I then started to look up at the top and couldn't really figure out where it might go after the column business.
I'd also been up about 26 hours by that time and finally bailed thinking I was only about halfway up and was worried about the top out. On driving away I realized I was at least three quarters of the way up if not more and much later figured out it was Durrance. Still need to get back and finish it...
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Aug 12, 2011 - 09:36am PT
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Right next to the Lower Exum Ridge is the Petzoldt Ridge which looks as good or even better.
Even better, I think, especially if one has an anti-social bent.
I got two.
Then I lost my book, and I don't want to pay Chessler prices for another one, at least not right now.
Ha-ha-ha !
My dad loved that book...he probably packed it into the casket upholstery before he left. He likely climbed less than a third of the fifty. But came close to climbing the Lower Exum fifty times.
Every climber needs a list...grand adventures to dream on.
Sweet scheming and planning, Dad !
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 12, 2011 - 09:50am PT
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I only have 2 and one of them has since been destroyed by rockfall: (1) Devil's Tower, Durrance route (1986), and (2) Hallett Peak, Northcutt-Carter Route (1961). The Northcutt Carter has been devastated by rockfall and the lower portion of the route...gone.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Aug 12, 2011 - 09:52am PT
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Let's see:
Liberty Bell
Mt. Temple w/variation of e. ridge(couloir on n. face to ridge)
Bugaboo Spire E. Ridge
Mt. Sir Donald
Grand Teton Direct Exum
Half Dome NW Face
Traveler's Butt
Charlotte Dome
Royal Arches
Clyde Minaret
E. Butt of Middle
Mt. Whitney E. Face
Fairview Dome, N. Face
I've done other routes on some of the moutains--N. Face of Shuksun, E. ridge of Edith Cavell (x2)
Like others, that book was an early bible to me. I got the book when I was just getting into climbing at the age of 15, and I've still got the battered volume. I'm almost certainly done with the "50 Crowded" at this point, but I've gotten a lot from the book and these climbs over the years.
BAd
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Aug 12, 2011 - 11:13am PT
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I've had 50 classic pisses. My criteria.
Haven't counted the Stecker crowded classics - maybe 8 or 9. I dunno.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Aug 12, 2011 - 11:50am PT
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Crestone Needle, ‘92
Petit Grepon, 4 times, ’93-‘98.
Hallett Peak, 2 times, ‘93
Longs Peak, The Diamond, 6 times, Kieners solo, D1, Yellow, Casual, Pervert, DunnWest. ’93-2011
Devil’s Tower, 2 times, ‘94
Royal Arches, 5 times solo, ’94-‘99
Lost Arrow Spire, ‘94
Steck-Salathe, ‘94
Middle Cathedral, ‘94
Castleton Tower, 2 times, ’94,96
Half Dome, Northwest Face, ‘95
Charlotte Dome, ‘97
Traveler Buttress, ‘97
Clyde Minaret, ‘97
Fairview Dome, North Face, ‘97
Mount Whitney, East Face, ‘97
Pingora, ‘98
Wolf's Head, ‘98
Mount Moran, ‘99
Grand Teton, North Ridge & Direct Exum, solo, ‘99
I’ve been on hiatus since ’99.
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JerryA
Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
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Aug 12, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
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For what it's worth ,John Fischer told me that he asked Steve Roper & Allen Steck not to include any Palisades climb in their list because he was concerned about the consequences.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 12, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
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50 Crowded? I think I can honestly say I never saw a soul on any of the ones I did, even Royal Arches*!
But I am pretty scary.
*The o530 start prolly helped.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Aug 12, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
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Been climbing for almost 40 years and I can honestly say that I have done NONE of these. I have done routes on some of the formations but evidently the classic routes were just too classic for me. Maybe I have been trying too hard, or not hard enough....
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Aug 12, 2011 - 12:18pm PT
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3 for me, probably the 3 easiest ones
Durrance on the Tower,
Ellingwood on Crestone Needle,
And I'm not exactly sure I can claim Northcutt-Carter on Hallet because I think we were off route most of the time.
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Aug 12, 2011 - 01:11pm PT
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17 (and a half ? )
Mount Hunter West ridge
Mount Sir Donald Morthwest Arete
Bugaboo Spire East Ridge
Forbidden peak west ridge
Mount Stuart complete north ridge
Grand Teton direct Exum
Castleton Tower Kor-Ingalls
Royal Arches
Middle cathedral east Buttress
Half Dome Northwest face
Nose
Salathe wall
Mount Whitney east face
Fairview Dome north face
Clyde Minaret southeast face
Charlotte Dome, South face
Travelers Buttress
Moose’s tooth west ridge made it to the southwest summit (I counts this as a ½ as the cornices were too scary to continue and I ain’t going back)
Definitely some routes that are still on my short list like the Steck-Salathe, Pingora and wolf’s head, but idea of jumping on routes like the Hummingbird ridge, West face of Huntington, the Cassin, etc have passed me by.
A few more routes that should be on any classics list:
Moose’s Tooth Ham and eggs
Peak 11,300 SW ridge
Mt Louis Gmosser route
West ridge of Mt Conness
Mt Gimli S. Ridge
Crimson Chrysalis red rocks
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OR
Trad climber
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Aug 12, 2011 - 01:26pm PT
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Golsen you are correct. Florine, his girlfriend ( great climber, spacing on her name) Willie Benegas and Christian Santileces did 20 in 20 days in 1993. It was epic.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Aug 12, 2011 - 01:58pm PT
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I am at Seven:
Exum Ridge
Wolf's Head
Royal Arches (7 times?)
Traveller's Buttress (dangle and thrash)
Fiarview
East Butt Middle
Clyde Minaret
Hope to get more....phat dad status ain't helpin..
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Aug 12, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
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That was Nancy Feagin.
http://www.speedclimb.com/20in20d.htm
50 Classic Climbs was one of my first books. I checked it out from a local library - then never returned it. I paid my $18 fine on time. It was either me or someone else, and I wasn't letting go of it. I also checked out Loughman's Learning to Rock Climb - equally influential. It was still in print, so I bought a copy.
Also - Exum Ridge - way better than the Petzolt.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 12, 2011 - 06:20pm PT
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I just checked on Bookfinder.com and the current price is $178+ for
the book. I still have mine. . .
Devil's Tower, Durrance Route 1978
Grand Teton, N Ridge, 1977 (almost). . . oopsie!
Pingora, Northeast Face 1978
Wolf's Head East Ridge 1978 (almost)
Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Ledges 1985
Hallet Peak Northcutt Carter 1985
Petit Grepon, South Face 1988
Long's Peak, The Diamond (D-7) 1977, 1980 (1/2 way each time)
Castleton Tower Kor-Ingalls 1988 (north chimney, 1977, 2001)
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Jay Hack
Trad climber
bellingham, Washington
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Aug 17, 2011 - 11:39am PT
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I'm rockin' 11:
10.Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7
22.Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2
23.Mount Stuart, North Ridge III 5.4
30.Pingora, Northeast Face IV 5.8
31.Wolf's Head, East Ridge II 5.5
34.Petit Grepon, South Face III 5.7
37.Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route III 5.9
39.The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
43.Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
I've also bailed off of another 4 on the list-
Middle Tripple/Hummingbird are the showstoppers forsure on that one.
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Aug 17, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
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Today I learned that Todd Gordon has apparently not climbed the Nose nor the Salathe Wall.
Me neither.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Aug 17, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
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I've done 3. - Charlotte, Royal A., Whitney.
It's a shame there is no Tahquitz on there. Whodunnit for size. Traitor Horn may be the most classic.
J-Tree most classic: Dapple Mare? Walk on the Wild Side? Double Cross?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 17, 2011 - 04:16pm PT
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Larry;...I hang my head in shame;....I have climbed the Dihedral Wall.....and I did have an attempt at the Nose...but was too unfit for the job at the time......and now I'm probably too old;......I hang my head in shame.......
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Aya K
Trad climber
New York
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Aug 20, 2011 - 07:39pm PT
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Now... do they count if you do the route but don't get to the summit of the peak?
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Aug 21, 2011 - 08:36am PT
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I've got 10; Never really thought of this till now.
Bugaboo Spire-1966
Castleton-2010
Royal Arches-1970 with Bob Mitchell
Steck Salathe-1971- with John Bouchard
East Buttress of Middle-1971,with TM Herbert
The Nose-1971 with George Myers
Salathe Wall-1971 with Jim Donini
Direct NWF Half Dome 3rd Ascent ( does this count?)with Bouchard
Devils Tower-Durance Route
Pingora with my son Mark
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Appalachia
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Aug 21, 2011 - 09:42am PT
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Climbing the "Classic 50" is about as stupid as, say, climbing all of the 14ers in Colorado. Climb what you want. Make your own list of "50 classics."
I started climbing in 1974 and have never aspired to climb anything on the list. I climbed the west ridge of Forbidden Peak in 1987, but only later discovered that it was on the "50 Classic" list.
I met a guy in Colorado who bragged, "I've climbed ever peak in Colorado." He started climbing with his father when he was a young child, and became a climbing guide in Colorado. I as duly impressed.
"WOW! Every peak in Colorado! There must be THOUSANDS of peaks!"
He looked at me with a puzzled expression. "No," he replied, "There are only fifty-four."
What a f*#king moron. Stupid lists.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 21, 2011 - 11:47am PT
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Mt. Sir Donald (2001 - solo)
Buggabo Spire (2001 - solo)
Liberty Ridge (1980)
Forbidden (2001)
Shuksan (1984)
Stuart (1980 - solo winter)
Liberty Bell (2001 - solo)
Shiprock (1977)
Royal Arches (1977 and too many times to count)
East But Middle (1977 and too many times to count)
Reg NW Face Halfdome (1978)
Fairview (2000)
East Face Whitney (2000 solo)
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John Morton
climber
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Aug 31, 2011 - 08:14pm PT
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This couple is in the process:
http://smileysproject.com
And documenting along the way.
I don't much care for media climbs, but I find this project fascinating because of one factor: the Hummingbird. The Smileys have lots of photos, video, a checklist, Facebook updates, etc. - but nary a mention of the Hummingbird.
What the climber wants to know is, what's their take on that route? In the climbing world a repeat of the Hbird alone would trump the rest of the routes combined. I can't imagine they're too optimistic about doing the list (Steck and Roper call it the 50 cc's) with the big one still looming ahead of them. Is this some strategy related to the dramatic arc of a story line, culminating on Mt. Logan?
John
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Aug 31, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
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12 for me.
Damn, zero in the Northwest and I live there.
Alaska and the Yukon
5.Moose’s Tooth, West Ridge
Western Canada
10.Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7
California
39. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
41.Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
43.Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
44.El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3
46.Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
48.Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8
49.Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7
50.Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9
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yedi
Trad climber
Stanwood,wa
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Aug 31, 2011 - 09:09pm PT
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I finished 5 of them.
Salathe Wall, El Cap
Reg. route on Half Dome
Liberty crack, Liberty Bell
Liberty Ridge, Mt Rainer
Complete N. ridge of Stuart
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Aug 31, 2011 - 10:05pm PT
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I've got ten of the twelve in California. ...haven't done the Nose or (damn it) Clyde's, though I've been thwarted twice.
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Spike Flavis
Trad climber
Truckee California
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Aug 31, 2011 - 10:33pm PT
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15 total.
I haven't thought about it in a while. I lent my book to a friend in the 80's and never got
it back. I agree that a new fifty or one hundred is a good idea, who's up for it?
1. Moose's Tooth (west ridge to west summit)
2. Bugaboo Spire East Ridge
3.Castleton Tower K.I.
4. Royal Arches
5. Lost Arrow x2 (1-from the rim 1- w/ direct)
6. Steck Salathe x2
7. Middle Cathedral East Butt x3 (once linked w/ Fairview Dome)
8. Half Dome NW Face x2 (both one day ascents)
9. Nose x3 ( 1 winter and 1 one day ascent)
10. Salathe Wall x2 ( 1-one day ascent)
11. Whitney East Face (car-to-car)
12. Fairview Dome x10?
13. Clyde Minaret (car-to-car)
14. Traveler's x 2
Also broke my leg on the Titan.
Who's done the most in a day?
In a year?
S.F.
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Scraptee
Trad climber
Tacoma
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I hit 22 last summer. One of my earliest best climbing partners was fixated on doing them all as soon as the book came out. There was no telling him that Hummingbird hadn’t been repeated or we couldn’t afford it. I was an itinerant ironworker in the mid 70s and was fortunate to get paid very well to stay in shape and worked on mines and power plants throughout the west. Guidebooks weren’t as plentiful and resources were limited to word of mouth from climbing shops so the 50 Classics was the first thing I packed when I headed out. At 60 I figure I’ve got another few left to tick off.
10.Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7
The Pacific Northwest
19.Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge
20.Forbidden Peak, West Ridge II 5.2
22.Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2
23.Mount Stuart, North Ridge III 5.4
24.Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3
Wyoming
25.Devil’s Tower, Durrance Route II 5.6-5.7
27.Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge III 5.6
30.Pingora, Northeast Face IV 5.8
31.Wolf's Head, East Ridge II 5.5
Colorado
34.Petit Grepon, South Face III 5.7
35.Longs Peak, The Diamond, D1 V 5.7 A4 or 5.11
The Southwest
37.Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route III 5.9
38.Fisher Towers, The Titan, Finger of Fate, IV 5.8 A3
California
39. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
40.Lost Arrow Spire, Spire Chimney III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
46.Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
48.Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8
49.Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7
50.Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttre
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sierra Ledge Rat, I agree, one has to make own list of goals. But this list is a nice list of possible quality routes. At times I come across climbs I fall in love randomly, but sometimes mentioned climbs end up being very nice.
I have done 4 so far.
Liberty Ridge 2011
Travelers Buttress 2011
East Buttress of Middle Cathedral 2011 (just a few days ago)
Fairview Dome 2011
Planning to attempt couple of more maybe this year...
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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I have 10. All in California!
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Has anyone else here broken 30? The most I've heard of is around 46 - some well known Canadian ice climber type I forget the name of.
Western Canada
9.Mount Sir Donald, Northwest Arete III 5.2
10.Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7
11.South Howser Tower, West Buttress V 5.8 A2 or 5.10
15.Mount Temple, East Ridge IV 5.6
The Pacific Northwest
19.Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge
Wyoming
25.Devil’s Tower, Durrance Route II 5.6-5.7
26.Grand Teton, North Ridge IV 5.7
27.Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge III 5.6
29.Mount Moran, Direct South Buttress IV 5.7 A3
30.Pingora, Northeast Face IV 5.8
31.Wolf's Head, East Ridge II 5.5
Colorado
32.Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Ledges III 5.7
33.Hallett Peak, Northcutt-Carter Route III 5.7
34.Petit Grepon, South Face III 5.7
35.Longs Peak, The Diamond, D1 V 5.7 A4 or 5.11
The Southwest
36.Shiprock, III 5.7 A2 or 5.9
37.Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route III 5.9
38.Fisher Towers, The Titan, Finger of Fate, IV 5.8 A3
California
39. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
40.Lost Arrow Spire, Spire Chimney III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2
41.Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
43.Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
44.El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3
45.El Capitan, Salathé Wall VI 5.10 A3
46.Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
48.Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8
49.Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7
50.Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9
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Mike_V
Boulder climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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What the climber wants to know is, what's their take on that route? In the climbing world a repeat of the Hbird alone would trump the rest of the routes combined. I can't imagine they're too optimistic about doing the list (Steck and Roper call it the 50 cc's) with the big one still looming ahead of them. Is this some strategy related to the dramatic arc of a story line, culminating on Mt. Logan?
Having skimmed their accounts of some of their experiences on long climbs, it seems to me that marital crisis is a more likely outcome than a successful Hummingbird ascent together.
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BrianH
Trad climber
santa fe
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Up to three:
Ellingwood Arrete
Charlotte Dome
Royal Arches
yay.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Looks like 11 for me so far. List below with modern or IMHO ratings:
The Pacific Northwest
1. Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge (III-IV, AI2)
Wyoming
2. Devil’s Tower, Durrance Route (II, 5.6-5.7)
The Southwest
3. Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route (III, 5.9)
California
4. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route (III, 5.7, C0)
5. Lost Arrow Spire Tip (II-III, 5.7, C2)
6. Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress (IV, 5.9, C0)
7. Mount Whitney, East Face (II-III, 5.6-5.7)
8. Fairview Dome, North Face (III, 5.9)
9. Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face (IV, 5.9 Direct Var.)
10. Charlotte Dome, South Face (III, 5.8)
11. Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress (II, 5.9, 4P)
Of course I've done plenty of far better climbs along the way than some of these! e.g. Ancient Art, Ptarmigan Ridge on Rainier, NEB of Higher Cathedral Rock, Mithral Dihedral on Mt Russell, etc.
As far as a more modern & expanded list that is a good alternative to the "50 Classics" (e.g. left off Hummingbird Ridge, swapped Kain Face for Wishbone Arete on Robson, etc.), how about the North America Classic Climbs list?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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North America Classic Climbs
Was kind of surprised to see Mendel Couloir on this list. Although I think it totally deserves to be there, was one of my favorite climbs this year. True alpine climb. SE Face of Clyde minaret is a big step up from Charlotte dome too. Rock route was one of the hardest 'walk offs' I have ever done.
10/50 for me.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Almost forgot to include this photo...these guys got a few.
They have a web site where they document their quest.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Vitaliy,
Yeah. I saw that web sight and contacted them a year or two back. They were very appreciative of my support. They also seemed down to earth and good people to boot. I hope they succeed!
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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Ya know, funny thing about the pejorative "50 Crowded Classics" moniker -- of the few that I've done (Direct South Buttress, Direct Exum, Charlotte Dome, Wolf's Head) or attempted (Pingora, North Ridge of the Grand), I saw either no other parties (DSB, Direct Exum, North Ridge of the Grand), or just one other party (Charlotte Dome, Wolf's Head, Pingora). Not exactly what I would consider crowded. Of course, YMMV.
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Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
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I did 23 of them. It was the thing to do, back in the day. Unless I get guided up the rest, or carried in someone's pack, that's where it will stay.
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hb81
climber
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Almost forgot to include this photo...these guys got a few.
They have a web site where they document their quest.
Sick project. Judging from reading some route descriptions, Hummingbird Ridge seems to be the grand prize of the list (or the show stopper...).
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Pcutler
climber
Iowa
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I've done enough to realize that some of them are classic and some are not. For example...devils tower is one of my favorite areas, but durance route is one of the worst at the tower. How does that trump Mccartheys or El Mat or any of the others out there?
Personal preference I guess. Still fun to talk about though, and the book kicks ass.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Yeah, the Durrance route was fun enough (climbing behind that detached leaning column was interesting), but I found El Cracko Diablo and Soler to be better climbs, and I can't wait to go back and try El Matador!
I read that the Wishbone Arete on Robson, which is listed as a 50 CC, is considered by locals to be a crap route on Robson and that for the locals, the true classic lines on that mountain are the Kain Face, North Face, and Emperor Ridge (which is why 2 of these 3 are listed instead of Wishbone in the NACC list). Perhaps Wishbone made the 50 CC list due to its status as the FA route on such a major peak? I imagine the same could be said for a number of the routes listed as 50 Classics . . .
And that book is fun to read, just for the history! I also especially like Ways to the Sky which has less of an explicit list, but has basic route information woven into a roughly linear coverage of the development of alpinism in North America. It even includes a nice account of the first winter ascent of the NE Ridge of Mt Williamson by Warren Harding. Beware the white rabbit!
On a related question, I wonder how many people have completed the original 100 Classic Climbs of the High Sierra by Moynier & Fiddler? Or how many of these climbs Taco-sters have done. The N Face of Morrison and the route on Angel Wings have got to be show stoppers for a lot of people :-)
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Dave Davis
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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I've counted fourteen (BFD)
E.Ridge Bugaboo
N.Face Edith Cavell
Liberty Ridge
W.Ridge Forbidden several times
N. Ridge Stuart- complete x3
Liberty Crack x2
N. Ridge Grand Teton
Castleton Tower
L.A. Tip
Steck Salathe x2
East Butt. M.C.R. x4
Nose x2
Salathe Wall
Fairview Dome
I think I've done most of the routes on Shuksan, but the Price glacier. I'm now at the age where just typing this list makes me tired.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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I believe that the current leader in this quest is Nancy Hansen, a Canadian who lives in either Banff or Canmore, with 42. Her recent attempt on #43, the east buttress of Middle Triple Pk in the Kichatnas, failed as the entire first pitch had fallen off. She plans to "Go back with rivets." Unlike some other 'questers', she is not a publicity hound, and does not solicit funds to pursue her personal goal. Good luck, Nancy!
Whatever one may think of the merits of the climbs chosen, '50 Classics' is a great read. Uncle Fred's more recent '100 Favourites' is less so, but still makes another fine to-do list, if you can't create your own. Both books give you lots of outstanding suggestions.
Go Nancy!!
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Ben Emery
Trad climber
Australia via Bay Area via Australia...
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An ex-library copy of the 50 classics is one of my more prized books (from Joliet, Illinois, of all places - it doesn't look like it was checked out all that often).
Just 5 for me, though:
-Royal Arches
-East Buttress of Middle Cathedral
-The Nose
-North face of Fairview
-Traveler Buttress
Currently a little hampered in doing more due to living on the other side of the world. Would love to get up Lost Arrow Spire, the Steck-Salathe and the Northwest face of Half Dome during my rare visits back to California, though.
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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As I said previously, I have two. It looks like there a couple I can still get up though.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 22, 2012 - 12:34am PT
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I posted on Sept 4 2011
I have done 4 so far.
1 Liberty Ridge 2011
2 Travelers Buttress 2011
3 East Buttress of Middle Cathedral 2011 (just a few days ago)
4 Fairview Dome 2011
Done a few more since than:
5 Mt Stuart (Full north ridge with gendarme as a dayhike via mountaineers creek)
6 East ridge of Bugaboo Spire
7 Beckey Chouinard on South Howser
8 Clyde Minaret SE Face direct day hike
9 Charlotte Dome South Face
10 Mt. Whitney East Face day hike
11 Royal Arches
12 Castleton Tower-Kor Ingalls
13 Lost Arrow Spire (as LASD)
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Dec 22, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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Tick Lists are peculiar entities. Humans have some weird natural fascination with grouping, listing, and ordering... the number 50, is arbitrary. The routes are arbitrary (and some, not possible to climb). The difficult is arbitrary (A few of them I could solo under an hour in shorts, many would be a pinnacle of a climbing career).
We are like voles collecting shiny baubles, convinced of their importance.
I know that climbing is all silly and pointless sometimes (don't you know you can just walk up the back???) which is perhaps why I find the idea of 'ticking all 50' even sillier. If you've had an illustrious career and like the idea of completing a set, I guess I can understand that. To plan a career around repeating routes deemed classic 40 years ago? To each their own, I guess.
As far as the smileys go, seem cool enough. Watching the videos you kind of wish the guy wasn't such a dick head to his lady, but maybe that's because I've never been invested that much in a climb to have it affect the relationship I have with the person I'm with at the time. Good on them for angling it for some gear and sponsorship, seems like a silly goal if you haven't done the Hummingbird or the Cassin... kind of like climbing the highest peak in each state but leaving CO, ID, CA, UT, WY and AZ till the end. But hey you got Florida and Ohio...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 22, 2012 - 01:01am PT
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I've coincidentally done 12 of the 50, with no idea they were on the list. Did a few of 'em before the list was created.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 22, 2012 - 03:00am PT
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Nancy Hansen has now done 44. Getting close.
Go Nancy!
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Dec 22, 2012 - 03:58am PT
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Out of curiousity, what was her 44th? Which ones has she yet to do?
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Dec 22, 2012 - 09:54am PT
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Operating out of New England has been a bit of a disadvantage for ticking the original 50, but I have done a couple:
Regular NW Face, Half Dome
Royal Arches
East Buttress of Middle Cathedral
On the Grand Teton I only did the Upper Exum, and on Halletts I did the Culp-Bossier. Years ago I was hiking in RMNP with my family (Flat Mtn?) and looking straight across at the face of Halletts when the entire first pitches of Northcutt/Carter peeled off into the talus before my eyes. Pretty wild thing to witness, complete with that sinking feeling in the pit of my stomach when I realized that there could have been parties on it at the time. Fortunately, there wasn't.
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Roadie
Trad climber
Bishop, Ca
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Dec 22, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
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I've done 14 so far. It was the first climbing book I ever read. Later I realized it included some truely awful routed. And excluded some obvious gems, no Naked Edge! Huh?
H-bird and Shiprock always confused me. Done once? and closed to climbing? Respectivly.
Been thinking of my own list, interesting thread.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Dec 22, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
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Nobody climbs any of those anymore, they're too crowded.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 22, 2012 - 01:28pm PT
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The Hummingbird Ridge on Mount Logan seems to be the hurdle for what otherwise are pretty moderate and safe routes.
A real accomplishment would be to do every route in Mark Kroese's "Fifty Favorite Climbs."
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Dec 22, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
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I believe the title of the book is "50 Classic Climbs of North America". Obviously, the term 'classic' means different things to different people, but 'classic' doesn't mean 'deadly' or 'extreme' in most people's minds.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 22, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
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I never said that it did, I understand the meaning of classic. The Humming Bird Ridge is extremely deadly.....should it have been in the book? Oh, i forgot, one of the authors did the first ascent.
edit: I also have never understood the list approach to climbing: all of the Fourteeners in Co., the Seven Summits, the 14, 8000 meter peaks etc. I just pointed out another more difficult list for those so inclined.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Dec 22, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
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Looks like a banner year for Vitality.
I would like to see anyone but the Smileys be first to get all 50. Nancy seems like the real deal.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 22, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
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Was a good year. Only 2 FAs though :(
Where can I find out about progress of this Nancy person?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 22, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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California
Half Dome--Jerry Coe.
Salathe Wall--Doug Ross.
Fairview Dome--the Rev.
EBMCR--many
Royal Arches/North Dome (a better "classic" by far than just RA)--many
Snake Dike should be on list--Jim shirley
and the E Ridge of Bugaboo--the Rev.
Any list of classics should get updated. Several of the fifty are wrecked by changes in their routes, etc., so substitutes are in order. The list should evolve as routes "die off."
Gene, that's one hell of a list. What's on it besides them, I'll probably find out. Again, are you up for The Balls this year? Madera County.
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Stevee B
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Harrowing account of an attempt by the Smiley's, Jed Porter, and Reiner Thony.
Hummingbird Ridge.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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A few of us around the campfire a number of years ago at the City of Rocks, chatting about the "classics". One of the folks, Inez (from the wreck.climbing daze...ha ha) commented she'd just climbed Devil's Tower. I mentioned that I'd heard the Weissner was more classic than the Durrance, and, who'd ever pick the Durrance as the classic? Allen laughed and said, "yeah, who was that guy?"
Fun stuff.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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I'm up to 14 now that I did Charlottes dome last summer.
Travelers butt
durrance
Pingora
wolf's head
shiprock
castleton
titan
royal arches
lost arrow
half dome NW face
fairview
east butt of middle
grand teton
charlotte dome
that's probably it for me......14 out of 50;....a good effort..
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Lotus Flower
Liberty Bell
Grand Teton
Royal Arches
Steck-Salathe
East Buttress
Whitney
Fairview
Charlotte
Clyde
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JerryA
Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
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John Fischer ,who is shown climbing the Southeast Face of Clyde Minaret on page 290 of Fifty Classic Climbs of North America ,told me that he asked the authors not to include any Palisades climbs in their book . I climbed the Swiss Arette on MT. Sill with Allen & his daughter ,Sarah , at PSOM in 1978 while he was working on the book .
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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not sure why people are so obsessed with lists
Are we gonna start bashing the OCD now, are we?
Sheesh, lists are like kids - if you don't like 'em don't have 'em!
Except for lunch, like W.C. Fields.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Lists are kind of fun when they fall into categories like 50 classic accents or ski descents or all the 4 star routes of an area. List making in of itself is more OCD and seems okay if it's for your own amusement.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Lists not always about OCD in my experience.
Not being a young hard charger anymore and accomplishment apathy creeping in on us, what we've sort of found (even if we don't really pursue it much) is that if we have a hit list of stuff to do, we tend to get to it and not jack around wondering what to do and thinking maybe that lawn chair and cold brew is closer than it could be if we actually hoofed off and climbed something.
Jus' sayin'...
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CCT
Trad climber
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Only 6 so far. Hmmm, I'll have to add to that. Only Charlotte Dome and Clyde really stood out for me. Some of the grades have changed too - Charlotte Dome is now 5.8, and East Face of Whitney is 5.7. And if Clyde is Grade IV, then East Buttress felt like Grade III to me.
The Royal Arches III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8
Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7
Lover’s Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Oh yeah, making lists of goals, dreams and things to do is inspiring.
Coming home and ticking it off on MP or facefvck is another demon.
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BluntMan
Gym climber
Wild Omar, CA
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A measly 3: Nose, EBMC, RA
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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9. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
40.Lost Arrow Spire, Spire Chimney III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
46.Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
Only 4 with only three more that are likely possibilities
I have done 14 of 15 of the 14'ers though.
one left.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Sorry TGT...14 out of 15 14ers doesn't count...typical republican maneuver..
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crankster
Trad climber
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I'm guessing martini has Starlight Peak to go.
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CCT
Trad climber
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As for ticking lists, it has its uses. I doubt I would have done a second route on Bear Creek Spire while I was out there, if not for the satisfaction of making a check mark in the book later. I would have succumbed to the siren song of lazing around the lake, as did my partner who does not care about lists. And I thoroughly enjoyed both routes and am glad I did them.
Climbing is a funny sport. For most of us, there is no extrinsic motivator except the joy of the climb. No fame, no glory, no career success, definitely no money. So if a tickmark gets you out of the tent and onto the rock, then it's all for the best.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Nope, just Sill.
Starlight was my favorite with T bolt a close second.
Maybe I'll do em' twice
Hell, why not do them all twice!
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John Ely
Trad climber
DC
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It seems to me that Mt. Waddington must be the coolest 5.7 on the planet...anyone ever done this little prune?
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SicMic
climber
across the street from Marshall
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25, 27, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 37, 39, 40, 41, 42, 44.
Looks like fourteen. Glad to have gotten Northcutt-Carter before the rockfall. And some of the others while it still constituted a list of "Crowded Classics".
It's certainly true that there'd be revision to this 1979 book today. But for many of us, it represented a call to the mountains regardless the number of climbs we could tick-off. I never had any aspirations for Logan for instance, but it was fun reading the account.
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Seven. Not enough.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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So, I think the dinosaurs deserve extra credit if their ascents were among the first 10.
Jess sayin'. Not to mention if they were winter ascents.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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There's leaders, and there's followers......
Your own call.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Thirteen for me, if I can count a north face start to the East Ridge of Temple. We climbed that long couloir, bivied in it because we started late, bivied again on the way down--long route! One of the best adventures of my life, however. I never did become a rad North Face extremist, so that was my chance, sleeping on a narrow ledge in the gully that we carved from the rubble, our feet dangling over the edge, the lights of Lake Louise like Kleine Scheidegg below. I was Dr. Hemlock and my wife Jemima Brown--a shorter, whiter Jewish Jemima. What a great climb. Dodged some scary rock fall before escaping the gully, and the rock on the East Ridge proper will give California rock jocks bleeding ulcers.
Always wanted to do the NF of Cavell, too, but ended up doing the E. Ridge a couple of times, once with my wife and once with another partner. That is a true Rockies classic, however. Good rock, great position, pretty safe as alpine Rockies routes go. Bring some good walking shoes for the way out, however. It's a long, long day, that one.
My list:
9.Mount Sir Donald, Northwest Arete III 5.2
10.Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7
15.Mount Temple, East Ridge IV 5.6
24.Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3
27.Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge III 5.6
39.The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
43.Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
46.Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
48.Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8
49.Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7
50.Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9
BAd
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Middle Cathedral- East Butt.
El Cap - Nose
Mount Whitney- East Face
Fairview-North Face
Charlotte- South Face
I drooled over all the others.
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john bald
climber
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Fourteen
on five additional without summit
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, CA
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Ten by my count for this weekend warrior until old injuries took me out of the game in the late '90s.
29. Mount Moran, Direct South Buttress IV 5.7 A3 (1983)
39. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9 (a few times)
40. Lost Arrow Spire, by way of Lost Arrow Direct (1996)
41. Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3 (1981)
42. Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10 (1980s)
43. Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11 (1979/1980s, 3 ascents)
44. El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3 (1981)
45. El Capitan, Salathé Wall VI 5.10 A3 (1981)
47. Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9 (1980s)
50. Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9 (1980s)
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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^^^^^^
I really enjoyed the videos of them working their way through the list.
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Jay Hack
Trad climber
Detroit, Michigan
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11
With attempts on 3 others
I also downclimbed 2 in that list from going up other routes.
Fun with lists...tick tick tick tick
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Knocked off ten along the way:
Howser Tower
Edith Cavell
Fairview
Steck Salathe
Nose
Salathe
Crestone Needle
Hallets Peak (pre rockfall)
Petit Grepon
Lovers Leap
If one were to count nearby routes that provide experiences similar to the targeted ones, I would have a few more:
EB Middle Cathedral (Stoners)
Diamond D1: (Casual or Yellow Wall)
Castleton Tower (Fine Jade)
Several are still within my abilities, so there is hope to increase the number before the end of the day.
Royal Arches, here I come!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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50 Crowded Climbs?
I did my fair share BITD, but more than 20 years ago I decided to stick to my own routes and to lay aside a similar book project on desert climbs.
Clint, strange co-incidence, I put up Thunderbird wall in '86 and the following spring lost my partners Dave and Catherine on the Hummingbird.
Dave and I had done the Nose with a third member who had already been killed by rockfall.
So perhaps a more poignant question would be; of all the partners you've had on the 50 classics how many have you lost to climbing accidents?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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I lost one partner who I did 3 of the 50 with (Salathe' Wall, East Buttress of Middle, Fairview North Face) - Chris Chan. But I have done those routes multiple times.
I lost 2 climbing partners when they attempted the Wishbone Arete on Mt. Robson in 1984 and were never found - Nick Vanderbilt and Francis Gledhill.
(Which is a slightly different question).
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Aug 12, 2014 - 12:23pm PT
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Did Wolfs Head this week. No problems with crowding, just had to wait for it to quit raining for long enough for us to get it in. Did Pingora on Sunday the 3rd then had to sit out three days of rain to do Wolfs Head on Thursday and that started out with Rain too. We had a party of three with a party of two behind us that never quite caught up due to simal climbing on quite a few pitches. Even the days in the rain were good for fishing and the views of the peaks in the clouds was spectacular. The wild flowers were unbelievable. Lots of snow still left in the cirque. Parking lot was full but no lines and not waiting.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Aug 12, 2014 - 12:36pm PT
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1 Liberty Ridge 2011
2 Travelers Buttress 2011
3 East Buttress of Middle Cathedral 2011 (just a few days ago)
4 Fairview Dome 2011
5 Mt Stuart (Full north ridge with gendarme as a dayhike via mountaineers creek)
6 East ridge of Bugaboo Spire
7 Beckey Chouinard on South Howser
8 Clyde Minaret SE Face direct day hike
9 Charlotte Dome South Face
10 Mt. Whitney East Face day hike
11 Royal Arches
12 Castleton Tower-Kor Ingalls
13 Lost Arrow Spire (as LASD)
14: Steck Salathe
15: The Nose
16: Reg. NW Face of HD
It is interesting how a regular book made crowds of people climb all these routes, some of which are average for the area.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Aug 12, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
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42, 43, 44
Can someone please post the list of all 50?
Here ya go.
Alaska and the Yukon
1.Mount Saint Elias, Abruzzi Ridge
2.Mount Fairweather, Carpé Ridge
3.Mount Hunter, West Ridge
4.Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge
5.Moose’s Tooth, West Ridge
6.Mount Huntington, West Face 5.9 A2 with “severe snow and ice”
7.Mount Logan, Hummingbird Ridge
8.Middle Triple Peak, East Buttress VI 5.9 A3
Western Canada
9.Mount Sir Donald, Northwest Arete III 5.2
10.Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7
11.South Howser Tower, West Buttress V 5.8 A2 or 5.10
12.Mount Robson, Wishbone Arete V 5.6
13.Mount Edith Cavell, North Face IV 5.7
14.Mount Alberta, Japanese Route IV 5.6
15.Mount Temple, East Ridge IV 5.6
16.Mount Waddington, South Face V 5.7
17.Devils Thumb, East Ridge IV 5.6
18.Lotus Flower Tower V 5.8 A2 or 5.10
The Pacific Northwest
19.Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge
20.Forbidden Peak, West Ridge II 5.2
21.Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier
22.Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2
23.Mount Stuart, North Ridge III 5.4
24.Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3
Wyoming
25.Devil’s Tower,
Durrance Route II 5.6-5.7
26.Grand Teton, North Ridge IV 5.7
27.Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge III 5.6
28.Grand Teton, North Face IV 5.8
29.Mount Moran, Direct South Buttress IV 5.7 A3
30.Pingora, Northeast Face IV 5.8
31.Wolf's Head, East Ridge II 5.5
Colorado
32.Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Ledges III 5.7
33.Hallett Peak, Northcutt-Carter Route III 5.7
34.Petit Grepon, South Face III 5.7
35.Longs Peak, The Diamond, D1 V 5.7 A4 or 5.11
The Southwest
36.Shiprock, III 5.7 A2 or 5.9
37.Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route III 5.9
38.Fisher Towers, The Titan, Finger of Fate, IV 5.8 A3
California
39. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
40.Lost Arrow Spire, Spire Chimney III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2
41.Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
43.Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
44.El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3
45.El Capitan, Salathé Wall VI 5.10 A3
46.Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
48.Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8
49.Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7
50.Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9
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Luke Lydiard
Ice climber
CA
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Aug 13, 2014 - 03:28pm PT
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I just came across a paperback edition of Steck and Roper's 50 Classic Climbs. It is the 1978 paperback edition. Blue cover. It's in decent shape. Bit of rough edges.
Looking to get $100 for it. I'll ship it USPS for free to anywhere in the US.
Also have a 1st Edition Climbing Ice by Yvon Chouinard paperback in really good shape. $70. Free Shipping.
Shoot me an email at lukelydiard at hotmail dot com if you are interested.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Aug 13, 2014 - 04:05pm PT
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One of the climbs is the East ridge of Mt Temple near Lake Louise.
It is more like a 5.7/5.8 but requires lots of unroped climbing up to about 5.3. The average 5.6 rock climber with limited alpine experience would be totally out of his/her depth on it.
There were a number of rescues and even a few deaths in the first few years after the Roper book was published.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 13, 2014 - 04:19pm PT
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They ain't all classic, that's for sure. The North Face of the Grand totally sucks until you get to the Second Ledge.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Aug 13, 2014 - 08:14pm PT
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#48
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JKK
Social climber
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Aug 18, 2014 - 09:06am PT
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To my surprise, I've done 12!
20.Forbidden Peak, West Ridge II 5.2
21.Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier
22.Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2
24.Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3
37.Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route III 5.9
46.Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
41.Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
43.Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
44.El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3
39. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 18, 2014 - 09:37am PT
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Mt Shuksan, Price Glacier, BwaHaHaHaHa! WTF?
JKK, not directed at you. I've done more than my share of Cascade walkups.
I almost enjoyed some of them!
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Homer2
Trad climber
Winters,CA
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Aug 18, 2014 - 10:03am PT
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1) Castleton
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whitemtn Matt
Trad climber
Intervale, NH
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Aug 18, 2014 - 10:13am PT
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I've done 6, several twice, but considering I live in New Hampshire, not out west, I think that's pretty good.
Matt Peer
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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Aug 18, 2014 - 12:51pm PT
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I HAVE MANAGED 1...THE SALATHE WALL
DID THE 1ST 4 PITCHES OF THE NOSE. CLIMBED JULY 4TH GOT WAY TO HOT DRANK ALL OUR LIQUIDS WHEN WE GOT ON THAT LEDGE BEFORE THE PENGI INTO THE STOVELEG CRACK. THEN WE HIT THE BAR AND BEGAN TO DRINK OUR BODY WEIGHT. WAS CLIMBING WITH CLEAN DAN...SURE SOME OF YOU HERE MAY REMEMBER HIM. HE INVENTED THE RECTIFYER AFTER YOU PUT A YOUR MONY INTO THE TELEPHONE AND WHEN YOU FINISHED YOUR CALL AL THE MONEY WOULD COME BACK AND THE NEXT SEASON WHEN THE VALLEY STARTED RUBBER STAMPING THE CANS WITH A MARK OF HALF DOME WHEN SOME DIDN'T HAVE THIS HE MADE ONE AND WE WOULD SIT AROUND CAMP 4 STAMPING AWAY AND BY THE END OF THE DAY IT WOULD BE PIZZA AND BEER ALL AROUND. AHH THOSE WERE THE DAYS
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 18, 2014 - 02:00pm PT
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Great list, but I wanna see other peoples lists, the quirkier the better!
I'll start;
Astroman
Lost arrow direct
La chimbly
Washington column direct
MorButt
The good book
Steck salathe
Excalithe
Wide world of sport -Patterson bluff, ca
The passionate life - ibid
Sorceret's crossing- Moab
Tricks of the trade-Zion
Edwards crack- vedauwoo
El matador -DeTo
Tad. ". "
Mc north
The eye-josh
Medicine man, cnp
Ottos route
I'll get back to this....
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TheCuban
Trad climber
NJ
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Aug 18, 2014 - 02:26pm PT
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Slightly different subject but I've climbed all 50 states :)
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larryhorton
Trad climber
NM
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Aug 18, 2014 - 09:43pm PT
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◆ Royal Arches (1968)
◆ Grand Teton, North Face (1969)
◆ Wolf's Head, East Ridge (1969, and at least 7 times after, including solo, naked, and a solo body recovery)
◆ Lost Arrow Spire (1970)
◆ El Cap, Nose (1970)
◆ Mount Stuart, North Ridge (1971)
◆ Pingora, Northeast Face (1972)
◆ Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Arete (1988)
◆ Fairview Dome, North Face (1990)
◆ Mt. Whitney, East Face (1990, solo day trip)
Nice little reverie for an old guy. Eight of the ten were climbed long before the ‘list’ was published. Guess how many people we saw?
This book lit a fire in a lot of climbers, including me, but not as much fire as any one of these lovely climbs — and hundreds more.
What a trip, eh?
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nh
climber
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Aug 18, 2014 - 10:49pm PT
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46. I'm almost half way there.
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Rosamond
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 20, 2014 - 10:08am PT
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I've done quite a few of them, don't remember how many exactly. The likely contender for all 50 would be Dave Nettle, who did the second ascent on Hummingbird, by a minor variation. First, start with the extremely short list of people who've completed the Hummingbird, and are under the age of 80, which is, to my knowledge, exactly 2 people, from the exactly 2 successful ascents to date; most if not all of the first ascent party in the 1960s are dead now. Then work your way backwards.
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Aug 21, 2014 - 08:30am PT
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^^^^
46. I'm almost half way there.
Good morning, Nancy! (assuming nh is you...)
For those Taco-ans who haven't been fortunate enough to meet this truly amazing woman, here's a video from her second attempt on Middle Triple Peak
"The Kitchatna Blues, live from the Sunshine Glacier"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxVRKB-oDnY
You go, girl! :-)
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Aug 22, 2014 - 11:40am PT
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Alpinist 30 has a comprehensive article on Logan showing routes to the summit, including the Nettle/Creighton Thunderbird variation, which on the Alpinist topo is shown connecting with Hummingbird Ridge at a point more than halfway up the original route.
Mark Smiley's blog (referenced in the climbing.com article above) has a detailed TR of their attempt this year, and why they backed off.
http://smileysproject.blogspot.com/2014/07/mt-logans-hummingbird-ridge_30.html
Smiley's photos (kinda like the mountain showing in Nancy's "Kitchatna Blues" video) show what looks like insanely rotten snow/ice on the ridge.
Will these routes ever be in safe condition again? Welcoming input from those more knowledgeable on the ways of the high wild.
Em
(just a gumby, though Brutus hauled my corpulent butt up 13 of the 50 Classics)
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Mad69Dog
Ice climber
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Aug 24, 2014 - 10:52am PT
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I just visualized doing all 50. It was awesome!
By the way, Allen says that the key piece of gear for the Hummingbird was a snow shovel.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Aug 24, 2014 - 12:03pm PT
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Got one more last week
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
It was worth the three hour wait.
Got my 15th 14er too.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 24, 2014 - 12:19pm PT
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I tried unsuccessfully to get Nancy Hansen to come and speak at the Oakdale Festival and would still love to hear from her about her climbing.
46 of 50 is a big story in and of itself and well out in front for that prize, I suspect!
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karen roseme
Mountain climber
Bishop
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Aug 25, 2014 - 10:05am PT
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I have 11. Yay! I might get a couple more someday.
Good job Nancy! It is not an easy list. Not sure how classic they all are though.
Some of the climbs have only seen a few accents. How can they be a classic when they hardly ever get done?
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crankster
Trad climber
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Aug 25, 2014 - 10:07am PT
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Well done, martini.
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Rosamond
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 31, 2014 - 09:09am PT
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I've always wondered why he chose some of those particular climbs. If I were to put together a list of the California climbs I consider true classics, I'd exchnge Hospital corner for traveler's buttress any day. I'd also add in the winter, ice climbing version of eyore's ecstasy at the leap, which almost never gets done. And i'd definitely put Matthes crest in there, and the great white book, just because they're pretty. And forget about the NE on middle cathedral; the DNB is where it's at, even though a couple pitches up top are filthy. And add harding's keeler needle, SW conness, and astroman in there. Also, Mendel Couloir. And One hand clapping at donner summit. Then, in alaska, the Muldrow traverse is a much better route than the west buttress. And the HIghway of diamonds route on foraker should be in there. I think its only had 2 ascents so far. The 50 crowded climbs book is just a compilation of his own personal opinions and biases. This list includes my own biases.
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Steve T
Trad climber
Montreal
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Check out Nancy Hansen - at 47 I believe.
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